Alsace_rangie

Discovery 1, 1997 Managed to damage one of the UJ clamp bolts on the steering shaft. Anyone know the size? Looks like an M8, but of course might be an imperial size.

It does helpfully state "WARNING: Do not test drive vehicle on public highway." But even going up and down a rough track with loose bits seems a bit odd. And youtube vids from Rimmer etc. don't mention these steps at all.

Posting in this forum as the steering box is nearly the same across most older models. The D1 Workshop manual has a number of steps for refitting the tie-bar. 17. Position tie bar, tighten bolts and nut to 81 Nm, starting with tie bar to mounting nut, then loosen nut and bolts by one complete turn. 26. Test drive vehicle: using both full lock directions, to settle steering components. If possible, drive vehicle over speed bumps and include harsh braking. 27. Drive vehicle in a straight line on level ground and stop. 28. Tighten tie bar to mounting nut to 110 Nm. 29. Tighten bolts securing tie bar to 81 Nm. Are these critical steps, or "official" over doing it? Backing off an entire turn would seem to be quite loose! Also, of If need to make corrections for the steering wheel alignment, is it OK to us the drag-link rotation/adjustment for this? (assuming it's not way out)

Yep, got this. My confusion was that this is a non-modified setup on level ground with no load. But what I hadn't appreciated (and pointed out by you) is that a very small adjustment of the stop makes a big difference. In my case 2 things caused the rubbing. One was chunkier tyres. The other being wear on the axle where the stop bolt makes contact so the left wheel could turn just that bit more. As you say, a mm makes a big difference. So sorted for me, and i may put some rubber/plastic caps on the bolts to prevent the wear on the axle with the required re-setup of the stop-bolt (shorten it).

If I put the washers between the locknut and the hub, i.e. on the outboard side, it would effectively shorten the max length of the stop bolt, yes? On the inboard side they would do nothing, except rattle around. If I did have a problem getting a long enough stop, only way would be to replace with a longer bolt, I think.

Where, to do what?

Outside of Australian forums, seems to be no wide experience of these tyres. However.... Cooper France and their distributor were very quick to respond and helpful, but said that supplies would remain poor until end of summer. So decided that the Hankooks looked a good bet and went looking for the best price. Then out-of-the-blue while I was looking at a site I have searched before, I found some St Maxx 245/70R16 at a good price. No idea where they turned up from. So ordered them quickly, and waiting for delivery. Let's see what they are like!

gave the left hand stop-bolt a turn out, and seems to have stopped the rubbing. Note my question wasn't the fact that there was rubbing , just that both sides looked to have the same stop settings and only one side was rubbing. If both sides were touching, no issue. Anyway, where the stop bolt contacts the flange on the axle, there is a bit of wear. Assume enough to reduce clearance and with the chunkier tyres.... Got some 245/70 R16 on the way. Not remoulds (actually found some ST Maxx). So will see where that puts me. Might put some plastic or rubber caps on the bolt heads to reduce the wear while I'm adjusting everything

Thanks. Had sort of arrived at the "try adjusting them anyway" conclusion! Will start with a short campaign of using some releasing oil, and then try to loosen the lock nut.

Rims are the 3 spoke RR type, alloy. Not sure of the offset value. Don't really want the expense of a new set of rims! Can get various tyre sizes, but not in the type of tyre I want, Cooper Discoverer St Maxx. Seems there is a real shortage of them, and Cooper reckon it will be late summer before the situation gets any better. 225/75 is an option but for some reason that size is way too pricey. I realise that I will get a reduce turning circle, but want to reduce obvious rubbing for the CT (=MOT). But looks like on my vehicle I am already at maximum (or is that minimum?), at least turning right.

I have 2 sets of 235/70 r16 tyres. One set of )not very rugged) Michelins and a set of Ins Turbo Traction Track. The Michelins are fine, but the Insas rub the radius arm on full right lock. Plenty of clearance on the other side (left lock). The stop bolts seem to be about the same, and nearly fully out on both sides. Anything else to look at to explain the difference? Anything else to do to limit the lock slightly? Longer stop-bolts? I want to get a new set of tyres and can only find 245/70. Should be fine in most respects but don't want them to rub too much

flexibles? Pads moving freely, pistons not jamming?

Any comparison with other tyres? I have no idea how KL71's performed, were they OK for an MT? If the MT51's are only slightly better than a normal MT on wet roads, then that is not too good in overall terms! Any experience in light snow? I assume you get some in the Peak District 😀

Can only find the Kumho MT71 on the US site (along with MT51, KL71 is gone), seems to not be available in Europe. And on the US site, the sizes are no good for me, so I think this may be a non-starter unless I wait a while. I am aware that there are always some penalties for using more MT style tyres. The open lateral path is what makes them good at clearing, but also generates noise and rolling resistance. That is why these hybrid styles have become more popular, with an open outer tread and an interlocking central pattern. My old BFG Trac Edges were perfect. Some more noise than my ATs, just that "is my wheel bearing on its way out" noise level. Not the airplane-landing-howl that the Insa Turbos have, even with an identical pattern. And the Trac Edge gave me enough grip in mud without giving too much away on the road.

As said in the original post, I want a more aggressive AT (Hybrid is a term used in some places). I had a set of BFG ATs, and while good for road, stone tracks and dry(ish) grass/mud, they are totally useless on the sticky clay mud that I have round here. One turn of the wheel and the interlocking tread fills with what is effectively a thick layer of grease, and even a 6-wheel drive would be no use. Same for most normal AT tyres. ATs are also not so hot on deeper snow, or at least not as good as MT-like tyres. But full MTs leave a lot to be desired on wet tarmac and thin/shallow snow. This is why so many lament the passing of the old BFG Trac Edge, and why quite a few manufacturers are heading this Hybrid route. Goodyear Duratrac (not really available outside of the US), Cooper Discoverer ST MAXX (but as I said, I'll have to wait quite a few months till they are available again in the size range I need), Maxxis, but size issues for me. The nearest I can get are the two I mentioned, unless any other suggestions? 225 up to 245, 77 or 70 R16. Please go on saying BFG ATs, great tyres for a lot of people, a poor compromise for others.

oops, got my numbers wrong, should be Kumho MT51. Hankook MT2 sometimes called the RT01

Hi all, looking for a new set of tyres. Currently running on Insa Turbo Traction Track. Great tyres for grip etc, but noisy and put a dent in fuel consumption. Plus they still run at about €100 a tyre and as remoulds, their life is shorter! Looking for an "aggressive" AT (like the Traction track and the long gone BFG Trac Edge). Cooper ST Maxx look great, but at the moment getting them in the size I need is very hard (confirmed by Cooper France). So looking at what is available, came up with the Kumho MT52 and the Hankook MT2. Not so much independent info about them around, other than Australian sites and there the conditions are a bit different to Europe 🙂 . But generally seem good in terms of off-road mud and dry earth etc. So has anyone any experience with either of these around road noise, grip in shallow snow, wet road etc.?

The Norauto pink (VW, GM etc. approval) does state O.A.T compatible on the label. I need to use this for my old Saab.

Castrol BOT 402 seems to be obsolete, at least in Europe. And as far as I can see was not MTF-94 compliant, higher viscosity https://lsg-gh.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/bot-402.pdf However on checking the data on the Ravenol site, MTF-2 (not MTF-1) is stated as MTF 94 compliant. Not clear if that's the old or new MTF-94 spec, the newer spec is slightly less viscous and came in sometime after 2010. Available in Germany, but can't find it in France. Can get it delivered but that drives up the cost a little bit. So another good option!

Really common oil is easy. But DIY car servicing is much rarer here so anything other than mainstream stuff is harder to get. There are very few motor-factor type shops that will deal with retail sales, and the only real equivalent of, say, Halfords is Norauto. There are online specialists, but most are not so good on supplying liquids. They are heavy in relation to value, and the carriers seem reluctant to take them on due to leakage etc. So just going to the shop to pick up a few litres is not so easy.

Just to round this out: Seems that a some point Yaccco didn't make an MTF94 spec oil, so recommend their alternative as VX600 (not BVX600), and it was this that was put in. VX600 is a 5W40 engine oil, but still too viscous. Now they do make the BVX500 which is MTF94, but forgot to circulate the updated recommendation... So swapped (by the specialist garage at no cost) to the MTF94 oil, and much better change, cold and warm. BTW, seems the BMW Mini uses MTF94 for the gearbox, so hopefully it will become less rare to get hold of.

oops, didn't mean to seem like an advert. Never even used them, just wanted to expand the list of suppliers that us poor expats can draw on! Posted the delivery charge as this is often the killer. You find a part for as good price, but with 3 times the cost for delivery. I often find delivery is less from the UK than from a France based supplier!

Hi Arjan, now I am looking for it, I can get the Yacco online: https://www.racinglubes.fr/huiles-pour-transmissions-manuelles/2361-huiles-pour-transmissions-manuelles-huile-de-boite-yacco-bvx-500-x-75w80.html?search_query=bvx+500&results=2 €24 for 2L, €5 for delivery

Will have to call, they don't list it on the web site

Yes, the BVX500 is the same spec as the original MTF94 spec. I don't get the idea (from Yacco) that going to the thicker oil helps low temperature changing. Wrong way round I think