Alsace_rangie

Posting this here as it's not just a Range Rover problem, more a general 200TDi question that crosses over to Discovery and Defender territory. In general the old car is not bad on the smoke, once warmed up. It started being a bit worse recently, that is smoke when below 1800 rpm, and a bit cleaner once the turbo cut in. New air filter did not make much difference, but a new fuel filter helped (oddly enough). I guess at 230K KM the injectors are getting old, but I dumped in some cleaner and will see how that helps. However the real question relates to some odd behavior. As I accelerate up my "test hill" I get some light smoke, but in 3rd at about 2700 to 3000 rpm I see a black cloud every couple of seconds, not too bad in between. Anyone any idea what might cause this? it's too far apart to be related to one cylinder (engine must turn over many times between "belches") and the only other thing I can think of is intercooler or hoses. My next step is to clean out the intercooler Any other suggestions welcome. cheers

I had a similar problem (Range Rover) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=84405&hl= The "clean up" I tried in the last post did help a bit.

Short update. Realised that I could stop the draught by switching the heater to "recirculate". So it looks like is something not right in the heater set up.

Thought I'd write this up, as a lot of web searching never found the exact fault symptoms and solution. Symptoms: Came back to the car, started it up and noticed the ignition/battery warning light was glowing. Had just recently replaced (and retightned) the drive belt; no squeal but the light did glow brighter as I revved it. Driving with about 2-2.5k RPM, the light blinked bright to dull. Once home, checked acrros the battery with a voltmeter. Getting about 1 volt more with the engine running. But as I turned things on (lights, heater blower, rear screen) the voltage fell i.e. charge rate not being maintained. Fix: Swapped out the regulator as this is not too expensive, but no better. A conversation with an auto electrician suggested that one of the diodes in the alternator was dead. So some charge being produced, but not enough. Swapped the alternator, problem fixed. Bought the alternator from Craddocks. Paddocks only listed a genuine Lucas part and this was twice the price of the Bearmach part from Craddocks.

Thanks, at least I know I'm not alone! Found that the separate switch part (i.e. no lock barrel) is no longer available, and that the whole assemble for my car is PRC8907 and that costs a lot more than the switch or later models from most suppliers. Anyway, the local 4x4 specialist had a second-hand switch in stock, but with the wrong connector. So using wire cutters, solder and heat-shrink tubing I had a working part. All mounted and back working

Took the steering cowl off. It seems that all the positions are determined by the switch © and not in the main metal part of the barrel. When I removed the rubber insulating cap the white plastic connection part © was loose. The retaining lugs (B) were not pressed home. This was allowing the plastic part to "float". Undid the small screw (A) and took out the switch assembly. Watch out for the small ball bearing if you take it apart. all seemed OK, so put it all back together and knocked the tab a bit tighter. Now it works better (stays running) but the auto-return from the starter-motor position is weak. It seems I can get the switch part separately, so will save money and not need 2 keys !

Hi all, odd problem with the ignition switch. On searching this and other forums, the usual issue is the key not turning. In my case the key turns but won't stay in the "on" position. So the car starts, then seems to die. Caused a panic for my wife who was driving it when the problem started, and I was imagining blocked fuel lines or dead solenoids (diesel) etc. Anyway, easy fix is a new switch but I wondered if anyone had an idea for a "magic fix", and avoid my needing 2 keys from now on!

Don't fully understand what you mean with the coil voltage, but have you tried to check if you have a spark? The old remove plug, hold it against the block (with a good insulator...) and crank the engine. If you have a spark, do you have good fuel pressure? On my old V8 I had a similar problem, engine turned, fuel was circulating ( squirted out quite well) but when I borrowed a manometer, no real pressure. New pump cured all.

Pretty sure that the front and rear motors are not the same. But taking a motor out to check it is not too difficult, but do use duct tape or similar to secure the window in the "up" position as they will fall once the motor is out. As previously suggested, there should be a connection that you can check for power. Also don't disregard the possibility that the windows may be jamming or stiff.

Buy an Eezibleed.... Put new front calipers on mine and bed the whole lot through in a few minutes. But one thing in the post about fluid going back and forth; if manual bleeding, I always get my assistant (guess who) to hold the pedal down while I lightly tighten the bleed screw and then allow the pedal to return. Makes sure that fluid is pushed in as if full of air it is easier for the fluid to move back through the pipes than to come in from the reservoir. Also try pushing the pistons tight back into calipers to reduce the overall volume (and some awkward galleries) you are trying to bleed.

Thanks, I had a look as best I could and can't see any holes in the bulkhead, but I may have to take off the deck panel to check. Foot wells is where I expected to find the problem, as it's where I had a gaping hole in my old Rangie. But the draft is definitely coming from higher up in the centre. My big surprise was feeling something cylindrical with blades that turned i.e. the heater fan. I can't imagine that I am supposed to be able to do that without removing something.

Seeking some helpful hints before I have to work on my least favourite thing: interior trim. Bear in mind this is a left hand drive 1993 200TDi classic. While driving there is a cold draft on the passenger front side. While sitting as passenger, I pulled down the trim above the small parcel shelf and put my hand into the space. I expected the air to be coming from the side, but the draft was located somewhere in the center, behind the heater. Further investigation while static (being driven with your head on the dash is not so good) I could feel air coming in and then I felt something that moved and I think it is the heater fan. Now the heater and vents all work fine, but I am sure I should ne be able to easily get to the fan like that. Any ideas or help on what might be displaced appreciated. Need to sort it our before we get out ususal -10C and lower! cheers

I used to have a 3.5 efi, now a 200TDi. No doubt the V8 was a great engine, with power and remarkable low end torque for a non-turbo petrol engine. However once you are on first-name terms with every petrol station owner, you realise that the fuel consumption is a bit high. I never dared to work out what it actually was. Bodywork problems lead to me letting it go to someone with more appetite for that kind of work, but the engine had over 300,000Km on it and ran great. The TDi gives over 30 mpg (>9 L/100 Km) and pulls just fine. In fact the 3.5 efi torque spec is 207 lb-ft, and the 200 and 300 TDi is 195 lb-ft, so not such a big difference. The power output at 111 PS is lower (165 for the 3.5V8). However the TDi intercooler is very poor, and there are a few good upgrade options on the market, some of them are straight size-for-size swaps. These will let you get to 130PS with little effort with some pump adjustments, no turbo boost fiddling needed. Of course there are the modern versions from International Motors (Brazil), but then costs rise... Nice thing with the TDi is that it is a "traditional" diesel, with no electronics. Easier for maintenance etc. and now mine has 220,000Km and just getting run in nicely

What is? the Nut holding the fan on is a left-hand thread, but maybe we are talking about something else?

" I have the correct tool (same size as for my BMW fan clutch, although the clutch on the Bimmer is reverse threaded), but he cranked it down so tight I can't get it loose." If you mean the nut that holds the fan on, it's reverse threaded on the RR as well... Hope I misunderstand and you aren't tightening it up!

Renewed the UJs with GKN kit. On first test run, seems to have fixed the noise. On the old UJs, the metal seals at the base of each of the bearings were loose. I think these were rattling and spinning when there was no load to "steady" the UJ. Either that or I disturbed something else and the noise will come back One point to note. The front prop shaft was fitted with the sliding splined end next the transfer box. The Haynes manual clearly states to have it at the front axle end. That seemed odd (more exposed there), so I checked my CD with the original works manuals. Land Rover specify to have it the way mine was mounted. Not sure where Haynes would get such an error, unless the recommendation changed at some point? (note Haynes has the solid front prop shaft type with the splines at the transfer box end).

Sorry, another on of those "what's that noise" questions, but maybe someone has had something similar. I thought the noise was just the disc brakes, as it is just the same as having a bit of dust behind the pads. Not really a scrape and not constant, that is a "shh shh, shh...". However it does not go away as I apply the brakes. It only occurs at that point between power on and over-run once going at 50KM/H or over, so you hear it when changing gear as well. Hard to assess, but I think it eases if I pull on the handbrake, but not too keen on trying this too much. So it is affected by the transmission loadf and after the transfer box, as it goes with road speed not engine speed. Only thing I found when poking around was the forward prop-shaft UJ was worn (new one ordered). Could that make the sound? Sort of fits with the "neutral power" and handbrake having an effect. I can't think of anything else. any inspired ideas or other things to check? cheers

Ok, got some new pads and set to work. I had already swapped the inner (thin) and outer (thick) pads over, and noted that the outside disc surface had polished up a bit. So better when the pistons were further out. My logic was that as the outer pistons moved just fine but weren't putting any pressure on in real use, there must have been something limiting the pressure inside the caliper. So pads out and flattened the pistons as far back as I could get them, hoping that this would dislodge anything and push it back into the line (or at least the area in the caliper near to the bleed screw). The pressure bled the brake. Some small bubbles and very small particles (only just visible) was all I got. Anyway, new pads in and brakes feel fine. Mind you they got through a vehicle test not long before I noticed the odd wear... Will run for a week or two and see how it goes. If still no improvement, then new calipers as if the pistons are moving it's not an issue of corrosion.

Thanks for all the advice, and sorry for the delay but I've been away for few days. I will try one more thing before committing to new calipers or a rebuild. As the pistons will push in easily, I wondered if dirt (a small amount) in the caliper fluid passages may contribute to any unbalance, as per Davetunbull's comment. So I will push them right back and bleed each side. Also considering replacing the disc as well. Pity as they are less than 2 years old. I've never had much success rebuilding calipers. Once the piston is corroded it seems the rest of the caliper (e.g. the seal seats) suffer. Perhaps new calipers and immediately add stainless pistons! Will post back if I find anything

Help/ideas please with an odd problem. 93 200TDi, non-abs The rear brakes are wearing unevenly, the inside pads are nearly worn to the metal, outside pads hardly used. The pads are only 6 months old, maybe 6K KM. On the last change this was only happening on one side, so I put it down to a pad jamming and gave the caliper a good clean up. Mintex pads fitted. This time both sides are doing the same thing. I swapped the "slim" pad over, and got someone to press the pedal; both pistons moved fine and both pads gripped the disc. Pistons push back easily. The inside of the discs are nice and clean, outside getting a bit pitted, I guess from lack of use. I am loath to replace the calipers as all seems to move. But OTOH the outside pads are not being made to do any work, as evidenced by the disc surfaces. Any ideas of what to check before I take the expensive route?

Both lights come on when the handbrake is applied. Only the transmission temperature light flickers. I can sometimes make it go out when I move (push down or side to side) the handbrake, but not always. So I'm not convinced it's not coincidental! I have felt all round the transfer box, but can't find anything; however I will have another go. The Parts Llist does not show the temperature gauges on the diagrams, but does list them as [900] and [901] i.e. in square brackets. The numbers are not in the list. The service manuals (official or Haynes) make no mention. Today I discovered that the parts list does show a temperature switch on a manual gearbox cooling pipe but I need to see if my box has this. The wiring diagrams do show the switches, wire colour listed as Black/Purple Investigations have slowed as it's snowing here now and that makes a) the car essential to keep on the road and b) unpleasant to go under the car even in a garage (wet and cold) If anyone knows where I need to look, suggestions appreciated

Thanks for the input. I checked out the wiring diagrams (Land Rover Original Publications,Sevice Manuals and Parts diagrams CD) and while it is documented for Autos, there is no connection to a switch or sensor for manual vehicles. Checked with a local expert/garage, and this was confirmed, though he said that sometimes he has found manual gearbox cars with the cable in the loom and with an unused connector up front around the radiator. There are no sensors anywhere on the gear or transfer boxes in my car. However I can find no trace of anything around the radiator area. As the light can be on or off regardless of temperature or incline I reckon it must just be a short somewhere , as per the suggestions of Geoff and Mike. I'll start looking around the handbrake area. If I find anything definitive I will post.Tthe main thing is that it is not a "real" warning... cheers

Manual 200 TDi Classic. I hvae a light coming on on the dashboard, symbol shows a gear cog with thermometer. This light has always come on with the handbrake, along with the brake warning light above it. It stared flickering on and now comes on quite a bit. The manual says it is a transmission temperature warning for autos, and the wiring diagram shows sensor swtiches for the transfer box as well as an auto box. However this is in a manual. A web search shows some commnents that in manuals it is used as a "handbrake on" warning, which squares with how it has worked until recently. I can see no wires or sensors on the transfer box or on the gearbox. Anyone got any ideas what else it might be linked to?

Not a "sparks" but I have played around in this area... A ballast system has a resistor circuit in parallel with the main feed to the coil; this means that you get less than the full 13.4 volts (e.g. 9V) during normal running. But when you turn the starter, the ballast resistor is cut, so you get a short boost at full voltage. So if you are getting the full volatge all the time to a 9V coil intended for a ballasted system, the cold will burn out. So either rewiire the ballast system, or do without the startup boost and put in a "12V" coil!

Obvious stuff.. As it happns on revving and I assume not at constant revs, I suggest you check the alternator drive belt tension. If it seems tight, then scrub some chalk onto the belt surface. If the tension seemed OK, the belt was not obviously oily, and the chalk fixed it then probably all is OK but it might indicate that the alternator bearing is on its way out. If you are allowed, slacken off the belt and see if the pully has movement or spins freely.