Alsace_rangie

Not a "which oil" question, plenty of threads. And a lot of info in Old thread. Just opinions on the following situation. So, time for a change of oil, '97 Disco TDI 300. I live in France and getting the recommended MTF94 is not so easy. So went to a local specialist garage, who sold me some oil from his bulk stock, in an un-marked container. Did the change, how long did it take LR to work out the most awkward places to put the drain and fill plug? Then I checked the bill from the garage and noted it was Yacco oil (well respected make) BVX 600. However this is NOT MTF94 spec oil. It's actually 75w90, and similar to Castrol syntrans multi. This is quite a bit more viscous over the entire temperature range. Not too pleased as the old oil recommendation was Dexron III, even thinner, and MTF94 spec was updated to a less viscous standard a few years ago. So my feeling is that going up to thicker oil is a bit odd. Plus getting Syntrans multi is easy and it's cheap! Talked to the garage, and they said that this is what they use. Yacco BVX5 500 is MTF94 compliant but apparently Yacco had sent out s suggestion/recommendation to use the heavier BVX600 oil to help with low temperature sync issues. My understanding is that the oil pump in the R380 is happier with lower viscosities and that low temp gear selection is improved by using the less viscous (than 75w90) MTF94. Garage has offered to change the oil over to the MTF94 compliant BVX500 so can sort this, but any opinions on using the 75w90 and if it should be better for low temp sync?

Thanks all. I ordered new bolts in case I need them, only €0.5 each. Just not sure if they are the pre-lock-treated. But will use some blue thread lock if not. For just corrosion protection I have used a PTFE containing thread seal e.g. on water pump bolts. But this does not really do much to prevent loosening. Cheers

Posting this in International, as the question can apply to more than one model. On my old Range Rovers (classics) with imperial bolts, when replacing calipers I saw no mention of needing thread lock. I just torqued them up and never had any issues. Now I have a Disco with metric bolts (12 point 13mm) and it seems new bolts come with a pre-applied thread lock. So, does that imply to always use new bolts when re-mounting the calipers? And of course they must have the thread lock. (they are not expensive, but delivery is usually more than the bolts!) Or just use loctite on the old bolts? Or maybe a non-locking thread sealer Or just reuse and leave them dry (perhaps a thin wipe of copper grease or maybe a non-locking thread sealer) and torque up to spec? Must admit, on other cars I have worked on, some have had lock-tabs, some spring-washers. Others nothing.

I had a similar problem. Sometimes just rolling the car a meter or so would make it turn over. I did have an issue with the starter solenoid (tap with a hammer to get it going), but even after replacing that it would sometimes just act dead. Earth (braided cable) had been off, contact points on the chassis filed etc. However, one day it wouldn't start and all I did was wiggle the earth strap (starter to chassis) and it turned. So I fitted another strap (nice braided copper one) as well. Worked ever since. The original strap looked fine, so only logic I can think of is that enough of the wires forming the braid were broken and just touching to cause the intermittent break in the earth..

BfG Trac Edge have been out of production for many years, over 10 I think. Pity as they were great tyres. The AT's are good on road and rough tracks, but any sticky clay/mud and the closed tread just turns into a smooth, greased surface! Insa Turbo make a close copy of the Trac Edge, the Traction Track. I have a set. Great grip on the road and in snow/mud. BUT they are remoulds and wear quickly plus my set is horrendously noisy, can't even hear a TDi when using them. Not sure if they are cheap enough to justify the pain points.

Owatrol dries off to form a transparent and reasonably hard surface. Work best on rusty surfaces and is a good primer coat. Used on a couple of places on my Disco bumpers, and has stopped any new rust for over a year Seems to work well enough, but not really tried it in tough conditions. Not sure how well it will bind to existing paint.

No permanent-live connection wire? Orange or yellow normally. If not connected could be causing memory features to drop. If just the code, check if there is an internal button battery that may have gone flat.

OK, assumed the 60A was a "last resort" level. Off to sort out some wire (5.7 or 6mm2) and an inline fuse . I'll probably expose as much of the existing NO wire (attached to the connector) as I can and cut/join that to the new fuse. Of course I'll put an insulated connector on the bit left sticking out of the harness/loom. It's dead right now but might spontaneously fix itself some day 🔥 By the time I get the bits and find time in the next few days, the weather will be warmer and I won't need the plugs, but it'll be ready for next winter 🙂

The NO and YB wires have an exterior dia of about 6 mm, which would be 5.7 or 6 mm2 section . This is rated 42 or 50A. Sound about right? 60A is 8.5mm2 , a bit heavy to work with!

Thanks. Is the NO line always live, i.e. not switched by the ignition key? But you are right, i can't see any in-line fuse. The wire goes into a loom enclosed in hard plastic flexible trunking, then branches. I one of the branches does head to the adjacent fuse box, but no easy way to trace the wire route without making a mess. So as suggested, take a live feed with 60A fuse. May try one of the waterproof trip/reset ones you can get. About the same price as a conventional waterproof inline fuse!

97 Disco, 300TDI LHD. Some help needed please to understand what I should be seeing. No power getting to the wire on the glow plugs (0 volts) . Relay clicks on and off, light on the dash goes on and off. Relay/timer situated right behind the fuse box near the battery. It has 4 smaller black wires and 2 large , a Brown/Orange (N/O) and a Black Yellow (B/Y). I guess the B/Y is the feed to the plugs. The N/O has no power to it (0 volts), even with the key turned to the position where the plugs should operate. I am assuming this is the problem. Am I right that the N/O should be live? Any idea where it goes to? It disappears into a loom, and it's a hard plastic covered example. Is there a fuse somewhere? Any help or ideas appreciated. cheers

zoom in on the pic and look at the roof line. You can clearly see where the image has been "doubled".

If only they might consider ramping up production.... Parts of the armed forces might be interested!

Yep, looks like it! The floor-dip must be a later addition/modification. Probably after the other one broke a few times.... Thanks, will relay the info to my friend. cheers

HI, asking for some help for a friend. He recently acquired a 1955 Series 1. It's an ex-Swiss fire -service vehicle, and has been maintained to very high standards. No rust and all original (including the soft top). Along with nice big chromed horns/klaxon on the wing, there is something we can't work out. On the steering wheel hub, above centre, is a small knurled brass knob/button. Can't tell if its to push, pull, or turn (don't want to force it). Engraved next to it on the plastic hub is a small curved arrow pointing clockwise, and the word "DIP". It has a floor dip-switch, so anyone any idea or seen this before? cheers for any info.

Intercooler blocked? EGR stuck wide open?

Thanks, that got me what I want, type is RV8P. Had been looking around, and found a part number CWE10032L. But this got prices of €60! The standard key code can be of as low as €4-€6. Bit of a difference!

Hi all, recently moved from long term RR classic ownership (excessive bodywork rust problems) to a '97 Disco 300TDI. Basically in very good shape (the car, not me) but with a few small things to sort out (squeaky belt tensioner pully, whistling turbo...) and one simple thing; I have only 2 keys. one for the door/fuel and one for the ignition. Went to the local key cutting place, but this being France they couldn't find a blank. Looked on the Rimmer site, plenty of key-blanks to choose from, but no indication of which type for a Disco 1. Not easy to tell by looking at my key and comparing with the pictures, and no code or indication on the keys that I have. Anyone happen to know if these are standard for the Disco, and what type they are? cheers

OK, found it. It cut out and I accidentally hit my knee on the steering column. Wipers started. Some time ago I had replace the switch on the back of the ignition, and one of the connections had become a bit loose. The White with red trace, 4mm feed.

Any hint where these links are? My manuals are on CD, and my laptop with CD reader is dead. So first job is to get an external box for my other laptop... cheers

93 200TDI classic Driving alone in the rain, then heard the radio give it's "turned off beeps", wipers stopped working, electric windows stopped just short of destination. Lights, indicators, rear screen heater, interior lights all working. Checked fuses anyway (all on different circuits) and none broken. Got out of the car, wiggled wires under the bonnet, no change. So gave in, decided to do what I had travelled for and limp home. But getting back into the car, suddenly all came back on. Anyone any idea of a common point for these items?

If by "warped" you mean twisted out of shape by normal braking action, then this is very unlikely. Discs don't warp like this. Look at the hub/disc seating in case that is damaged, plus any play in the suspension. Judder is often caused by pad material being deposited on the disc surface by stopping and holding the brakes on while hot, or some sort of contamination e.g. oil. Also poor disc materials. All can give the appearance of being "warped".

Don't quite get this. You are saying that the "upper class" filters increase the oil pressure by 25psi? Normally oil pressure is an indication of how tight/good the big-end and main bearings are, and of course that the oil pump is working. I would expect a good filter to work well while allowing oil to pass as freely as possible, not double the pressure causing a reduction in flow and load on the pump. If there is a difference in pressure across the filter, it will probably be due to the material itself i.e. how porous it is. Not so easy to measure.

Mineral oils will deteriorate faster than synthetics, especially in older engines where the bores are more worn and combustion products get in the crankcase. At the change intervals mentioned above, probably not an issue. I have always used a moderate quality 100% synthetic BUT changed at mineral intervals (10000 KM). Got my old 3.5 V8 to nearly 400K KM (it was the bodywork that led me to sell it, engine was fine) and is also good for nearly 300K KM on my 200Tdi. I use a 5W40, means that the oil gets round faster when cold and doesn't load the oil pump so much, but has the required viscosity at running temperature. I buy it at the local hypermarket at less than half the price of the "brand" synthetics.

Just to continue the wood collecting theme... '93 200TDI, 240K km, the family workhorse. Pulls horse trailers over mountain passes, goes shopping, oh and up to the forest to drag 3 cubic meters of wood out at a time. Still does better than 9L/100Km (33 mpg).