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Posts posted by easytiger
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5 hours ago, Lewis said:
I don't remember exactly what it was which I didn't really like about the shielder chassis, but I walked away from their stand thinking that when I buy that it will be marshland
It will be interesting going forward as it seems that Marsland are now branded as Britpart (not sure if the Chassis' are delivered in blue boxes LOL). It also proved impossible for me to get a price directly from Marsland and when I got a dealer to enquire for me I was told £2500 + the dreaded (£3k), although I did see that Rimmers (who list them at £3031) are offering to price match on them
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1 hour ago, mickeyw said:
+1 ^^
TBH, I think so many folk are doing chassis swaps that I wonder if the manufacturers simply can't keep up with demand.
I imagine it's easier for them dealing with businesses that make regular orders. That way they probably spend less time answering questions and arguing over prices.
No doubt this is the case, the guy from Shielder did say that it is a nightmare dealing with people who ring half a dozen times asking questions and then perhaps don't even buy.
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They use 2.5m steel for the legs same as Richards and 4mm for rear x member, bolt in gear box x member as standard.
They don't remove any excess galv from bolt holes but the chassis they had on display didn't look bad TBH. Guess I'll see when it arrives in 3 weeks! I'll be sure to put up a rebuild thread and let you all know what it is like.
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1 hour ago, Peaklander said:
It turns out that they aren't supplying Marsland's. They source from Britpart and that supply originate from Richards. Also the price has changed. 😱
Thanks for this Peaklander, I did a bit of digging on this and am told that Marsland are now supplying Britpart, hence the trade only status.
Mark
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Update!
Trip to Peterborough for the LRO Show yesterday and did a cash deal with Shielder for a new galv chassis, about £700 cheaper and lead time of 3 weeks.
Now busy studying @western's chassis swap thread to see what else I need before it lands.
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22 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I still want someone to fit the polycarbonate see-thru version for ultimate awesomeness:
https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/8401
What a cool piece of bling - I want one!
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Hindsight is a wonderful thing but I should have ordered at the start of the summer when I thought about it. But I decided not to mainly because of the lead in time, I put a new engine in in July and had thought to do both jobs together but when the lead in time meant this wasn't possible and the truck passed its test I decided against, at that stage there were no real signs of how bad the chassis was.
Tried ringing Shielder chassis on Weds, still waiting on a call back so still trawling around trying to find best price / lead time combination UGH!
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Sorry I don't have the answer to your problem, but I can recommend someone if you need to get your injectors tested / refurbished. I used http://www.bobbeckfuelinjection.co.uk/ and they tested the injectors for free, then refurbished them with new nozzles at £40 each (others had quoted £100 each).
Mark
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Yes was about to place an order but thought I would ring to check lead in time first.
Hadn't thought to have a trawl around the parts suppliers though so doing that now thanks @reb78 . really need something sooner than 10 weeks or the truck is going to be off the road all winter!
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26 minutes ago, Landrovernuts said:
Have you spoken to Marslands? I only ask as I am not trade and have recently bought a 110 chassis from them with no issues. It was only a three week lead time in February this year and where the cheapest when I was looking.
Toby
Thanks Toby, I rang them earlier this week, the lady who answered said that they are now only taking trade enquiries and wouldn't even entertain discussing prices or availability with me. So I got somebody who is an independent LR specialist to ring them for a price, he came back with £3k (I've no idea if he added a handling charge).
18 minutes ago, reb78 said:I noticed the other day that Devon 4x4 are selling Marsland chassis'. The prices seemed good too which is odd for Devon 4x4!! Take a look, it might help.
Cheers Richard I'll have a look.
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Hi
I'm finally ready to take the plunge and fit my truck with a galv chassis but sourcing this is becoming a bit of a nightmare:
Marsland will only supply to trade customers and are expensive
Designa not currently making defender chassis only series stuff
Richards quote me 10 to 12 week delivery time and there is anecdotal evidence that they often miss deadlines. Bearing in mind that the truck is already off the road now and even if they delivered in 8 weeks i still need to t wash, prime, paint and waxoyl before fitting so that is an extended period VOR.
Which brings me to Shielder, an Irish supplier that I haven't heard of before who are substantially cheaper than Richards but I am a little nervous about making such a key purchase from an unknown maker.
I wonder if anyone has any experience of their products or work?
Thanks Mark
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I bought this set from sp4x4.
https://www.sp-4x4.com/QRF100880_DEFENDER_IGNITION_LOCK_SET_p/qrf100880-3.htm
it does get you away from the many key situation but I fear that it does little to boost security.
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15 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Yes, that's scary. And it's top of chassis, so indicative of deeper problems. There have been at least two repairs nearby already. I'd be taking that off the road today, goodness knows what the brake lines are like.
If you are time poor, but have cash, then I'd re-chassis, if you are time rich, but cash poor, I'd strip it to the chassis, get it blasted and repair it.
If you are time and cash poor, your doing something wrong, and should buy a KIA, or a Hyundai, until you have the time or cash to fix it. But please don't drive it.
Sorry, not what you want to hear on a Friday night.
Owning two Land rovers I am of course both time and cash poor LOL.
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Thanks for your replies.
Just to put everyones mind at rest the truck is off the road.
The damaged occurred in Scotland and I took it to an MOT garage for temporary repairs. They plated both sides with 3mm steel to get me home.
The front half of the chassis is in much better shape than the rear so I'm considering a half chassis from the people Mike mentioned. Has anyone had any dealings with RCP at Southam in Worcs?
Thanks Mark
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15 hours ago, miketomcat said:
There is a company on eBay that make 110 half chassis that includes this crossmember. So you could buy that or maybe they could make this crossmember for you. However welding it in will be tricky in situ and I'd be concerned at the integrity of the rest of your chassis.
Mike
Thanks Mike, just messaged them about half chassis.
I was going to re chassis earlier this year when I swapped the engine but put it off because of the lead time for a new chassis from Richards.
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This may be an option for you, available from several sources so might be cheaper elsewhwere.
https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RTC5682PKUR
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Nor me but the later pipes are now fitted with no apparent issues
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Update.
My truck is a '91 but it seems the early pipe is NLA and advice is to use the later parts.
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Thanks Ralph
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Hi
I'm having trouble confirming part numbers for the turbo oil feed and return pipes for a 200tdi defender, can any one help please.
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Saw this ad today https://www.landroverdefendersecurity.com/products/land-rover-defender-deadlocks
Or there is a crowd called Hamshaw 888 who make a tree slider with deadlocks in, this the preffered option for me.
Mark.
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On 4/17/2017 at 3:03 PM, cackshifter said:
I too am looking for said prop, but you can buy new ones sometime for less than second hand, try lrdirect, they had i think a hardy spicer one
I recently changed the prop on my 110 and working on the basis that if I bought second hand I would want to change the UJs for items of a known quality I came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth messing about with breakers and bought new Hardy Spicer from RST online, good service, next day delivery and reasonable price.
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I just cleaned and painted the brackets and used some M6 x 20mm bolts to replace mine.
Faulty Stat?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I generally fill through the plug on the rad and then do as Ralph suggests and finally check that the heater is getting hot before replacing the cap.