dailysleaze
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Posts posted by dailysleaze
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I think most cars are easy to open the instruments on, I have a ford galaxy instrument pack here and just a few screws and it's all in bits.... although I think it's mileage is stored in the ECU.
Just for info, was he adding miles on or taking them off?
Cheers for the information
Adding, from about 28k to 148k. I always wondered if it could be done with electronics but seeing as I know naff all about them if this thread had come about two months ago I would have had a bash!
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I'll take it out of the truck over the weekend & have a good look, it didn't look tampered with when I got it back.
I got mine changed a couple months ago by a guy in a mobile van. He pointed out to me some damage around the case crimping to say that it had been opened before and wasn't him. Afterwards, he said it was as difficult to open as a motorcycle speedo...
So in my case, it was definitely opened.I tried the drill too but calculated it would take a week at full tilt, keeping the drill piece perfectly in line and soundproofing it from the neighbours. Ended up paying £70 to this guy after quotes of up to £230! And he did it in 20 minutes.
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Try and bump start it. That'll separate a starting problem from a running problem
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What sort of suction am I looking for at what sort of revs (idle ok?)
The end of the pipe should be able to stick to your thumb and not fall off at idle
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The 07 110 SWs at work have ribbed roofs, so they must have brought them back in for the Pumas?
I'd prefer to have the ribs. Careless people walking on the roofrack has left my 1997 one a distorted shape that becomes a swimming pool in the rain. I'm thinking of going in late one night and swapping the roof off the work Defender for mine.
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It does not make for a water or windproof tent but I would imagine if you were camping somewhere dry and warm it would be fine.
Perfect for the UK market then!
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The bolts holes to the radiator studs were elongated in my cowling, so I had to do the nuts up tight to stop it slipping out of the channels.
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A Wolf chassis has a tubular cross member there:
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I think it's one of those "if you have to ask you'll never understand" sort of things. To me it's the rarity, the uprated spec and the kudos of being linked to Ranulph Fiennes (the god himself).
I was aware of the expedition as it was happening and it drove through Belize in the only month I wasn't there - gutted! Good luck to whoever has that kind of cash lying around...
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Your isolated frames do indeed show a bit blue but what's a bit of oil between friends?!
Sorry, didn't mean to be condescending! It's just that the gauge of what is "blue" is very subjective.
If it is mostly white then the diagnosis it's back to fuel (although there's nothing to say that there may not be multiple things at play
), so as others have said an incomplete burn in a particular cylinder(s) fits well. -
For any of you that know this vehicle, it's up for sale:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270752415616&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
It's rarer and better spec than a Camel. Can't think this opportunity would arise ever again!
Must buy a lottery ticket tonight
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That looks very blue to me. Anyone else?!?
At this point when it's revved, there's a mix of blue and dark grey smoke - air starvation with burning oil?
Something's happening in there which doesn't burn well. Either fuel, air or heat, and you've had most of the fuel system/timing checked, so I would take the intercooler to manifold hose off thus eliminating the turbo and making sure it's not air related. 300Tdi will start without glow plugs easily at this time of year so the other defining factor on heat is compression, which is okay.
Otherwise the only other related elements in there are oil and water, and it doesn't look like steam. Valve stem seals seem an overwhelming possibility due this only happening from cold.
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Panhard rod bushes? I had a similar sensation once (The panhard had actually fallen off.
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I almost gave up when doing the EGR system and de-cat! Perseverence is key.
Lots of WD40 and try and tighten the nuts before you undo them. It should crack the threads and then undo. Maybe try and shock it with a hammer. The manifold nuts need a couple of extension bars to attack it from underneath.
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Interesting. I recall seeing a photo a while back of a rear door setup with the actuator at an angle in the centre of the door, and the cam thing mounted above the lock. To translate the force in the required direction for the lock. Perhaps that is the proper setup?
An image from RAVE shows the solenoid placed in the middle at an angle next to the motor. I imagine this might be the proper setup, being indicated in an offical document?
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hi
On one side the exhaust ports have a metal shim attached (pictured) and the other side is flat. Which side goes to the engine block? I don't want to trust which way the old one comes off because obviously it's eventually broken the way it went on.
Cheers
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It's held on by 4 bolts at each corner that go through the floor. You need to remove the seat base and the metal inspection cover (4 screws) to get at the nuts on the other end. Or you could undo from under the vehicle with someone securing the bolts from inside.
The two bolts under at the back are under the back rest, so you need to use a spanner instead of a socket. I think they're 13mm.
I lost a lot of skin from my knuckles as being underneath, the bolt threads/nuts were quite rusty. Don't want to do it again for a while! Good luck.
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I don't think there are three positions left-to-right like there are front-to-back. It's just either in diff-lock or not.
I get two clunks on the diff lock lever, i.e. three positions. From Ashcroft's site (below) it seems that one clunk out is out of diff lock and two clunks does nothing more, so the lever being in the middle setting should have disengaged it.
"The most common error when setting the difflock is not understanding which position to set the input shaft to. As you noticed there are three positions on the difflock input shaft; counterclockwise, centre and clockwise. The counterclockwise position is a "dummy" i.e. not used. You need to set the linkage up to move from centre position to clockwise position. If you set this up to this position you should resolve your problem."
From here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=45#faq62 (expand FAQs)
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very unlikely Foley's would buy vehicles just for the V5 they are a well known 7 have been in business for a long time exporting special order vehicles.
I think the practise is to buy an old vehicle, replace the chassis with a galvanised one and put all new bodywork on it - effectively getting a new vehicle on an old VIN.
There's a photo diary of a business starting with a galvanised chassis, stripping the bits off a 2006 ROW 110 and then selling is as a 1984 110 for USA export. Sacrilege in my opinion!
"This project is based on a 1984 donor and is having the full Berkshire Land Rover “treatment” to become one our much sought after conversions"
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A hole in the intercooler piping?
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Anyone who bought them simply for bad weather will quickly realize how much work they are and sell them off during the summer
I wanted to spend £4k on a 110 CSW 300Tdi and looked for about 6 months before I realised that I a good solid one was out of that price bracket. Took me another 6 months to find a good one that I got for £6k in summertime.
It takes time to wade through the carp to find one that's worth its price, because invariably the perceived inflated price leads others to overprice the POS ones.
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Brilliant video!
I see it that the people that go illegally offroading are the same type of person that drives through a residential area at 50mph in a lowered Punto with no silencer. Same scum, different pastime.
If anything, i've seen more motorbikes whizzing down footpaths surrounding towns and in estates than in National Parks. Same problem, less controversial.
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Sleep with both propshafts under your pillow
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Mine passed this year with this hole:
So in my case, it was definitely opened.
TD5 Speedo Mileage run up circuit
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just a thought, on the MPH gauge the 100km/h mark is past vertical, but on the KPH gauge the 100km/h is at vertical. Also, the MPH gauge goes to 120MPH, but the KPH gauge goes to 200km/h (125MPH). Possibly then, the gauges are programmed to move the needle different amounts based on the number of pulses?