dailysleaze
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Posts posted by dailysleaze
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Not being sarcastic, but i'm geuninely interested if someone can highlight to me which caliper seals they think are the better quality.
I bought a stainless steel piston kit, which came with a seal kit, and a separate "Genuine" seal kit (which I intended to use instead). Anyway, the "Genuine" kit (ominously) turned up in a couple of freezer bags, so I compared it to the other kit to see if it was any different.
And they are quite different. All the 1's came from the same kit and ditto the 2's.
Metal retainer
1. Left, rounded in profiile
2. Right, squarer in profile and taller
Dust seal
1. Left, shinier rubber, thicker
2. Right, duller rubber
Wiper seal
1. Left, thinner, duller
2. Right, thicker, shinier
Wiper seal, inside edges
1. Left, larger gap, thinner edges
2.Right, smaller gap, thicker edges
Wiper seal, side on
1. Top, thinner
2. Bottom, thicker
The No.2 dust seal goes into the retainer after about 30 seconds of jiggling. No. 1 dust seal won't actually fit in any retainer after 5 mins of trying (it's a larger diameter). Should it be that hard to fit?
The fact that the seals are a different feel of material is ponderous. I always associated shiny rubber with Britpart....
I know which one is "Geunine" and which isn't, but on comparing directly it cast doubt in my mind as to which was the better quality. Now i'd like to know, based purely on what they look like, which one would you fit?
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I got my BFG ATs last year from Camskill. At they moment it'd be £495 for 4
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hehe yup this is so true
Check out the current stock on eBay. 35 vehicles!
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It took me 3 hours to get the bellhousing back onto the engine by myself. I had an engine crane and a trolley jack. Extremely frustrating. In the end it helped to lie down with the vehicle, head to the back, hold the end of the gearbox like a gunner and manipulate it in all directions whilst pushing. It then slotted in within a few minutes of work.
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All that said have they (nene) actully done the real work or are they just changing the belt and a standard 6000 mile and putting it up for sale. I bet they are. They might do a clutch but that seems to be it. That will be £12500 sir.....
I went round a lot of a known brands in the south east when I was trying to find my current Defender. They all spoke about a "full service" as if it was the cure of all problems. The minute they would say it I would switch off, thinking they hadn't a clue about what really matters.
You get all the cliches:
- "Solid chassis"
- "Pulls like a train"
- "But they're all like that"
- "Mechanically sound"
Some of the big brands do well at putting lipstick on a pig. Others just lie and sell a pig with the price of the lipstick included.
- "Solid chassis"
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As it's a concept, it's probably been designed from the initial brief that the only limits are to fill the requirements that the Defender meets, in whatever way is thought up without prior preconception. It's the result of blue sky ideas. The next 4 years they will be tweaking this to also bear resemblance to retain the marque, as image also denotes a lot of brand values.
With the Discovery 3 they threw away the rule book and designed inside-out rather than outside-in, which has seen a great success. They are probably trying to apply this same philosophy to the Defender.
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I think you mean the T-box input seal? It's ICV100000G
I bought and fitted one this week from here
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I think this was their inspiration: Link
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I found a Shell Oil Refinery employee ID card inside the door and an Italian parking ticket behind the radio...
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So my bank holiday weekend has been jam packed. In the 3 days I managed to put in a new clutch, a new Ashcroft gearbox and a second hand Disco transfer box alone. Friggin hard work and my fingers hurt as I type! Hope I don't have to do again any time soon. The engine crane was a godsend!
Turned out that the release bearing had melted (as everyone guessed
). The clutch plate itself had some life left in it but the pressure plate fingers were very worn. Fitted a 130 Valeo clutch and aluminium release bearing.
Cheers to all.
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if a wheel/hub bearing goes can it take out the stub axle. What does it usually knacker up? Hopefully not the hub iteself
This exact thing happened to me and to a similar extent on a different occasion here: link
If a bearing melts it'll take out everything near it; stub axle, hub, cv joint. Daily bearing checks will go a long way to help keep on top of it. Proper greasing and attention would have stopped happening what happpened to me.
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Hi
Might not be of much help as its thousands of miles away, but I saw this one once in Belize that had been turned into a Rastafarian shrine
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I'd like to reply, but you're wearing flip-flops
Well, it was hot today. Don't all LR owners keep a pair in their toolbox?!?
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I'm surprised you've let it go so long, I'd be scared to drive it like it.
Heh well it's done 6000 miles since I got it and it's only started making a noise this weekend.
I've learnt that tinkering with things for the sake of it means I open up a can of worms... (chassis poking)
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A conundrum to solve... I pretty much know that the gearbox is going to have to come out, but I thought i'd entertain the intrigue and get some bets placed before dismantling.
History:
1997 300Tdi 110 150k. The clutch pedal has always been stiff after about 30 mins on the motorway, and having a "gritty" feeling so smooth changes were not easy. It would also lurch a bit when trying to put it into first gear at traffic lights off the slip road, presumably the clutch plate not fully disengaging (drag). The clutch would sometimes judder a bit when moving off from cold.
Yesterday:
Off to LandroverMax and coming off the M40 it was stiffer than usual, to the point where the pedal wouldn't return at the rate my foot would - really stiff and juddery. Did the course, with some muddy wading, clutch was fine starting off home. On getting home after an hour or so on the motorway, the clutch pedal was stiff again and not following exactly with the clutch engagement/disengagement. On one change into second gear, the clutch was slipping with the pedal fully up, before it caught.
Today:
Did 30 miles on the motorway, and entering a junction, the pedal wasn't stiff, but in one gear change it stayed down to the floor. I had to lever it up with my foot. The bite point would then change with every pedal press, sometime at the bottom and sometimes right at the top. 5 mins later it made a squealing/grinding noise when the pedal was depressed that probably happened 30% of the time. Drove back 30 miles later on the motorway and I was convinced the clutch was slipping. Hills seemed to require that little bit more oomph to maintain speed. Entering town the clutch felt fine, but every change had the squealing/grinding noise (see video). Accelerating from 20mph in 3rd gear usually gives a kick in the back with a 300Tdi, but the engine raced and the speedo needle climbed slowly. (so it's definitely slipping)
Video:
Now:
It squeals all the time.
I don't really want to drive it any more in this state. The interesting thing is that the engine idle slows slightly as the clutch is depressed. You can't tell this from the video.Conclusion:
I think i'll try some pedal adjustments and bleeding, but it might just be pointless. My vote is on a release bearing that was ropey, got a bit wet and is now hating it. Another option might be a worn clutch plate that's scoring the flywheel?!?
Fingers crossed someone might say it's an easy fix, but i'm resigned to the inevitable! I have no idea when the clutch was last replaced, so all eyes point to it. At least it'll mean I can get a new gearbox...
Any other ideas? Cheers
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I think the original article is a bit of a marketing ploy to get people up in arms to reinforce to themselves how much they like the Defender.
It's like what Coke did in the 80's with "New Coke". If there's a threat to a product (Pepsi), take it away completely and then the customers show their true colours. The company knows where it stands and the customers prove to themselves how much they wanted it when they didn't have it. Coke then regained their market share. I know it might not have been deliberate by them, but LR could similarly use it to their advantage:
When Coke went ahead with its plan, an immediate and very loud outcry was raised. Long before they'd tasted a sip of it, millions of Americans had decided they hated New Coke. Yes, in blind taste tests people had consistently said they liked the new formula better. However, a soft drink is so much more than merely its flavor; a soda is also its marketing. Coke had spent more than a hundred years convincing the North American population that its product was an integral part of their lives, their very identities. Taste be damned: to do away with Coca-Cola was to rip something vital from the American soul. Americans (never ones to peaceably go along with anything perceived as violating their identity) weren't going to stand for it, and they weren't shy about saying so. [...]The New Coke project had been kept secret for years; this secrecy wouldn't have been possible if company personnel had been questioning test subjects on how they'd feel about the new cola if it were to replace the old oneFrom here
I don't think LR can get rid of the Defender because 1. it's the roots/ethos of the company for over 60 years, and 2. it's the base model by which it makes the other models look "prestige" in comparison. Get rid of that and the Freelander is then the base model.
The Defender has a brand which is different to all the others and therefore a different market share willing to buy it, that wouldn't buy a Disco. It wouldn't make business sense to get rid of it, albeit the cost saving/safety changes will have to come.
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In 2010 I took my 110 Hardtop and went to a Class 4 place and it got through fine on a Class 4
This year I took my 110 SW to the same place and said they couldn't do it. There's only one place that does Class 7 within 10 miles, so went there, and they put it through as a Class 4! (and non-turbocharged even though it's a 300Tdi!).
However, it passed with no advisories so i'm not complaining! I fear the Class 7 brake test though if it ever gets tested as that.
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This was a b*stard to get back on the road
The missus was driving
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I would paint mine as the galvanizing is a sacrificial coating, the paint will give an extra coat of protection as well. thinking of doing a 110 chassis upward build next year.
I'd do it for this reason alone. The attractiveness to thieves is another, plus black looks better than silver for a chassis I think.
Does anyone know how the chassis is painted in the factory? This is a photo from a 2010 vehicle I saw at Billing. It's not gloss, but it's not matt.... Satin? Powder coated?
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I've just fitted the TD5 rear springs and they're a lot better. Before I had Britpart yellow standard height which were quite harsh. I also replaced the front Britparts with the Yellow/Yellow which are progressive also. So now I have the same spec as a 110 SW up to 2007. The front sits about half an inch lower and the back is an inch higher compared to the Britparts, giving the the forward leaning look.
As far as i'm aware for the front:
Standard Td5
Yellow/Yellow, NRC8045
HD Td5
Blue/Red NRC9448 or Yellow/White 9449
I don't think they were handed for the Td5 so it may be either of these, but if you fit them it will raise the front a bit and make the truck look level from the side.
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One method is to interview a few hundred people in the street and then extrapolate the demographic of that sample over the whole population. It's similar to TV viewing figures where they don't exactly know how many people watched Eastenders, they just know how many of their sample size did and then multiply up: Guardian article on calculating TV viewing figures
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Either they don't know what they are or they're lying with regard to being from a puma.
Probably an honest error seeing as they've got another listing for an actual puma dash:
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Lol The rocking horse has dropped it's guts!
4 kmh speedos on ebay at £50 buy it now
Collect only from Maidenhead ... bit far but doable
Christ, I haven't seen one for 9 months. They're like London buses... it went for £57. I half wonder if businesses poll the forums to see what's in demand when someone posts a new modification guide.
I've been to Berkshire LR and they do lots of work with ROW vehicles adapting them for the States, so those speedos are probably legit. Either they don't know what they are or they're lying with regard to being from a puma.
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The last one I saw on eBay went for over £100.
They're like hen's teeth covered in rocking horse poo (at least in the UK) because they're from ROW vehicles.
). The clutch plate itself had some life left in it but the pressure plate fingers were very worn. Fitted a 130 Valeo clutch and aluminium release bearing.
I don't really want to drive it any more in this state. The interesting thing is that the engine idle slows slightly as the clutch is depressed. You can't tell this from the video.
Can you spot the genuine caliper seals?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
It's quite a possibility. I can agree that the no.2 retainer looks better, but the wiper seal - not sure if thinner means more accurately made??
Or if the larger diameter dust seal means it'll fit tigher (if it ever fits)
I was hoping for the same thing when I bought Genuine from here !