dailysleaze
-
Posts
999 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by dailysleaze
-
-
No I went straight to Evo 1 thinking it'd be better than original spec. I might have to refill with MTF94 to see what happens, but it's just a bit annoying to waste such expensive oil.
-
I fitted an Ashcroft recon R380 (after this) and filled with Evo 1 thinking i'd get it off to the best start. Now 6 months in, i'm realising that the 1st - 2nd shifts need a lot of force when cold and I don't remember it being like this in my other gearbox with MTF94 that had 150k miles. I thought a good as new gearbox would not have this problem, which then leads me to believe the oil may be at fault.
The Evo 1 is specified for pretty much all LR gearboxes (R380 + anything that also uses ATF), and it's a red colour like ATF whereas MTF94 is golden. I know people say it's Amsoil but I can't help thinking that it might be nothing like the genuine MTF94. I've also read that R380s can vary from box to box in which oils they like.
Just wondering if anyone's gone from Difflock Evo1 in their R380 to MTF94 and it liking this better?
Otherwise I might have to do a test over the summer, but i'm not really looking forward to wasting £65 of oil in 9 months
-
On a related note, here's a plot of my 300tdi 110 fuel economy, running on 265 ATs. Any suggestions why it's dropping off so much?
Reasonably consistant useage (8mile each way to work, plus the odd occasional trip elsewhere)
I've changed air & fuel filters with no sign of improvement.
I'm just worried that it's going to keep dropping and end up at 0
Kev
There might be a leak somewhere that's getting worse? A hole in the tank? Leak off pipes?
-
I've recently managed to get over 500 miles on my 300Tdi 110 with Disco T-box (on the motorway). A bad MPG would give about 450 miles
-
They have smaller diameter tyres, so lowering the gearing.
Makes sense then!
I guess there's pros and cons with both the 1.4 and 1.2. You just have to decide which type of driving you care more about - motorway noise/mpg or towing/A roads power
-
I did it to my 300Tdi Defender at the same time as replacing my gearbox/clutch. On the motorway, it's a hell of a lot quieter. Pleasantly so. And I went from 27mpg to 30mpg on long motorway runs. Instead of changing up to fifth at 50 it's now 55mph.
The only downside is that 4th doesn't like going much beyond 50mph, and 50mph labours the engine in 5th, so when driving on fast A roads you can find yourself not having any power a lot of the time. So in reality, you can't really drive between 50-60mph when not on a motorway/dual carriageway. You also need more revs when puling away as first naturally higher, but that's just changing your habits. It's also nice to accelerate when you see a space on a roundabout and don't hit the top of the revs by the time the other car comes round to you.
I'm not sure how well 300Tdi Discoveries drove? Or maybe just my engine is down on power.
-
They point down usually but can invert if the suspension extends, like when going over a large bump at speed. I don't think it really matters which way up they are.
-
I feel that my Defender TD5 had a much better gearchange while pulling a loaded car-trailer.
It seemed smoother somehow.....
Always wondered why ?
Probably because you had more inertia with the extra weight - less deceleration between gears
-
I noticed there was a bit more noise at tickover with a solid front pipe. I wouldn't even be able to tell now though.
-
That's the kind of driving you'd expect at a pay and play site, not on a green lane.
-
as luck would have it, there's some 2009 door internals on ebay
-
I was not looking forward to this when I fitted a Td5 door to my 300Tdi, but the 97 ignition key seemed to work in the new lock, so bonus.
(whether this means a screw driver would also work i'm not sure...)
A nice bit of work you did there to get it all working.
-
I've had 3 viscous fans fail, 1 Puma last week and 2 300Tdis. All were on 4-5 year old vehicles that had spent their entire lives in tropical/sub-tropical climates. All three didn't fail safe. One failed with the clutch open (didn't spin) and on the others the hub sheared off the nut.
I'd still have one over electric though as they're easy to diagnose and easy to replace, and lasting 4-5 years in 30 degrees+ isn't bad.
-
Hmm a very difficult subject, I'm a walker, mountain biker, and I drive a 4x4.
I'm with you on that one. I feel very caught in the middle. Plus some of the anti-lobby in the film are the parents of a friend.
I go greenlaning now and then, but I don't ever feel right doing it in a National Park. I spend most of my time in National Parks walking and think that there's so many other green lanes in non-National Parks that it's better off leaving it without vehicles crawling over it.
However, the argument of erosion by 4x4s is almost a moot point because walking creates a huge amount of erosion on the motorway footpaths up the larger mountains (3 peaks in the Dales, Snowdon, etc.). The lb/sqin argument of 4x4 vs horse vs bike vs feet puts the 4x4 in a good position, but it's just that it's very easy to be irresponsible as a 4x4 driver (as some proactively are) and cause shed loads of erosion in one go.
I can emphathise with the non-4x4 group because I grew up in a National park and my Dad has been on similar crusades (planning permission) to protect his corner of the world. These zealous crusades against "outsiders" that come in to use your locality and leave is a very human reaction that has caused wars throughout history. It's borderline religious fervour. The 4x4 vs Walker conflict is too rigidly defined on the lines of Urban vs Rural folk, that makes the conflict more deeply rooted. It's exacerbated in National Parks because they are officlally designated as a "this part of the countryside is for recreation" zone.
The opinions of those that live in National Parks and also green lane regularly would be the ones worth listening to. Most people don't **** on their own doorstep.
There are too many people in this country in too small a space. That's what it boils down to. If you want to exercise your right to do what you want then the UK ain't the place for it, because someone's always going to oppose your views.
-
It's inline with the rearmost set of gears, so not actually splashed by the input gear itself. I did remove the temp sender at one point and it's just a threaded hole in the case.
The input gear splines are splash lubricated, so maybe it gets covered in enough oil? But is still not a very good design. The Rocky Mountain extended capacity sump has a blank hole that can be tapped for a temp sender. Then it would be constantly immersed.
"NOTE:Still uses transfer box drain plug but there is a blank boss in the casting that you can drill and tap to add temp sender if desired."
-
I've got one of these and I imagine it gets covered in oil flicking off the input gear when moving
-
We might have a longer wait than we thought - According to Top Gear, the current Defender will continue until 2017
Although they've said that they could run the DC100 from 2015 to replace the 90, and keep the 110 and 130 going for another 2 years.
-
The goalposts have moved. 2017! http://www.autocar.co.uk/News/NewsArticle/AllCars/259669/
-
Hiya
There are 4 bolts on the underside (15mm socket). The rest are M10 flange nuts (17mm socket) and studs.
-
And for interest I thought i'd post the instructions that came with the Genuine kit
-
So here we go. 3 kits of varying quality and their differences
These are the kits in question:
1. Unknown brand, sent in error instead of Genuine. I can suppose it's Britpart
2. Unknown brand, came with a stainless steel piston kit from EAC Parts
3. Genuine Land Rover STC1270
2 seems better than 1 and almost as good quality as 3. I would think 2 is a better Replacement brand, but still not Genuine.
Retainers
The quality of the metal is quite different.
1. quite scabby, and rounded
2. is squarer
3. is squarer and a rough texture and a darker colour. it flares slightly at the edge
2 and 3 are quite similar in cross section
Wiper seal (goes into the retainer)
1 is very flimsy and has thin edges. 2 and 3 have thicker edges. 3 is not as floppy as the others
2 and 3 are slightly thicker than 1 from the top
2 and 3 are slightly thicker than 1 from the side
Fluid seals (thick and square)
2 and 3 are duller rubber than 1. 3 has coloured bands on it
1 has a larger diameter than 2 and 3. 3 has a more refined appearance
Wiper seal in retainer
The seals in 1 protrude more than in 2. The seal was harder to fit into 1 as it is floppier. The seal in 2 is almost flush to the retainer edge
3 has more seal protruding from the retainer and is slightly thinner than 2
All three side by side
The diameter of wiper seal 1 is larger than that of 2 and 3. It would be a looser fit on the piston.
-
I've just got the Genuine "Genuine" seals in the post and the quality difference is astounding. It also turns out that I've muddled up what I thought what was the wiper seal, fluid and dust seals in the above images
Will post some photos later
-
Turns out it was a picking error and they're sending me some new Genuine kits on Monday for no extra charge.
I know some people slate the customer service at LRSeries, but I sent an email and got the resolution I wanted within 40 minutes.
Thanks to all for confirming my gut instinct!
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
-
Yep no.1 was the "Genuine", which got me pondering.
Either the "Genuine" is right and that is what they should be like (doubtful) or I was fobbed off with Britpart as Genuine and the seal kit that came with the pistons isn't half bad.
I think i'll contact LRseries to get their side of the story
Rippling primer
in International Forum
Posted
Forgive the amateurish attempt, but i'm trying different methods/paints to see what works to patch up rusty bits and to learn from my mistakes. I've come across the filler primer rippling like a skin on rice pudding. Does anyone know what speciifcally causes this?
It's 3 coats of Halfords filler primer over no1 rust beater and some filler. I sanded slightly and degreased before spraying
To be honest I wanted to see what happened and see how it goes with what I had at hand. I can always go back to metal and start again.