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Mo Murphy

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Posts posted by Mo Murphy

  1. 1 hour ago, miketomcat said:

    I fitted a 200tdi master cylinder and servo along with the rest of the braking system on 45. The master cylinder sits at the wrong angle but isn't enough to cause problems. I had to re drill the pedal box and make openings in the side to get the nuts on. The whole system worked very well and the brakes were very good. I did it because I had all the disco bits and no money to buy/replace the existing brakes.

    IMAG1428.jpg.1f79e597618f15b1e791920654987b0c.jpg

    Not sure any of this helps you mo.

    Mike

    Thanks Mike. It helps but I'd like to use off the shelf Defender bits and I'd like to know that it would work with those bits and that it would be more effective, hence the desire for feedback from someone who's used those parts.

    Mo

  2. Yup I too saw a thread about it a long time ago. IIRC the Disco master cylinder sat at an angle due to the Discos bulkhead being at an angle which is not ideal.

    Hence my asking about the Defender ABS items. Having had a brief look at one the servo appears to be spaced off the pedal box but the master cylinder is at the correct inclination. Does it use a unique pedal box ?

    So will the ABS parts work on a non ABS system and more pertinently does it make any difference to braking effectiveness or feel.

    Mo

     

  3. Hi Mike

    I don't think it does specifically unless you're referring to wastegate creep which it does by not opening until boost pressure exceeds the spring preload pressure.

    I find boost climbs smoothly to the set maximum pressure and then stops as It reaches its preset limit.

    I'm no expert or connected in any way.

    HTH

    Mo

  4. 20220806_111135.thumb.jpg.852b970d21c798f3e3994e2675d0c0fd.jpg

    I use a boost valve to control my boost as it saves lying across the engine trying to adjust the threaded rod. Cap head on the left side of it adjusts boost. 

    I used this one because it looked suitably agricultural, its British and it was cost effective (cheap 😉)

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220537042109?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VBdYtBupQcq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9yXbXNDuQSq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    HTH

    Mo

  5. On mine (it was owned by a friend at that time before I bought all the bits) the body was so rotten it wouldn't have survived being lifted off in one piece ! The tub was white powder, the bulkhead wasn't really attached to anything and the lower halves of the doors were just holey aluminium skins 🤣

    Mo

  6. On 12/8/2008 at 10:04 AM, simonr said:

    I too had this issue - and came up with quite a good solution, although it does require a lathe and a press to make!

    Make two washers, about 5mm too big diameter to fit in the core plug hole, with an 8mm hole in the middle.

    Using a steel ball, press the two washers to form dishes (a bit like a small wok).

    Weld an M8 bolt to one of the washers (making sure the weld is waterproof) with the threaded portion sticking out of the hollow side of the dish. Then use the other washer to form a sandwich in the shape of a 'flying saucer' - with the end of the thread sticking out of the top washer.

    In a lathe, turn down the rim of the saucer such that it just fits in the hole in the block. hold the end of the thread with mole grips and tighten a nut, pulling the two dishes flat. This causes the circumference to expand and jam in the hole.

    It worked brilliantly and I was able to fit it without removing anything.

    Si

    I love that Si ! 😯

    Mo

    • Like 1
  7. Well, I don't think the power steering pump is at fault, the noise is still there with the belts off. So the only other thing I can think of that could be making a squeaking bearing / belt noise at the bottom front of the vehicle would be the timing belt tensioner 🥴 that's only been in there since last August !

    Oh well 🤬

    Mo

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