Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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Fancy putting your link for this website down? Sure a few of us are interested
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Personally each time I go off roading, water pours out of the chassis rails. So external coating is only probably 30% effective as the inside will stay wet and rot away much faster.
I assume I am right in saying you ideally need one of those complete waxoiling services that can do some internally?
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Nice write up, but you have successfully managed to convince me not to touch my gearbox! haha
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Right ok, I will source a larger diameter cable then
Thank you
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haha! winch line then
It's galv steel wire, still ok?
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The cable did not come as standard with the winch, I got the cable as part of a deal off a mate.
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Hey,
I have just fitted a 12'000 Lb winch and it came with a 8mm winch cable, is this cable thick enough for the winches rated pull? For both single line pull and a snatch block?
Regards
Adam
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Having watched a mate break his thumb while blatting round a forestry track (Truck hits root, root moves tyre, damper looses all it's fluid, tyre turns steering wheel, steering wheel makes a technical adjustment to the angle of his thumb), you can get more than a stain on yer drive if it fails. That said, his may well have been Britpart... and the damper on my truck is had been on it for a good while when I got it 10 years ago, is still on it now, and is an original armstrong.
Jake.
yeah that's a rookie mistake, I'm fairly new to all this, but I learnt to not do that in normal cars. Lesson learned
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As far as bulbs go. At 12V the bulbs will draw less, at 14.4 they will draw more, any more voltage the bulbs will blow. They will output 55W at approx 14.4V. and hence the maximum current. However some electrical equipment will be rated at maximum current at 10.8V then internal voltage regulation above that.
Therefore when specifing current I always take the power of the equipment and the lowest possible voltage of the equipment as then you will be safe regardless. So Maverik is correct in his method as it gives you some slack.
I have plenty of lights on mine, all of which are 55W in pairs so I could power them direct through my 20amp switches, but I use relays as I switch them all to my full beams.
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Personally I am really happy with my Insa Turbo Dakars. Got 5 in 265/75 for £325 ex VAT. Spent 6 hours in mud yesterday and was very impressed.
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That is the guide saying to remove the whole section from the transfer box, which I wanted to avoid if I could
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Hi,
I need to change the rear bearing on my LT230 rear output. I know I need to remove the handbrake backplate to access the dust cover/retainer. But do I need to remove the entire bearing housing from the transfer case? Or can I remove the seal and the circlip then put the flange back on with the nut and use that to tap the whole shaft out? I know it can be done with the front bearing, but it can it be done with the rear?
Cheers,
Adam
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also how long is a piece of string?
Twice the distance from the end to the centre
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I bought a set of these Snap on Tools extractors and they are superb. Click onto a 3/8 rachet and they make short work of rusted bolts: either snapping them off so you can drill the thread out or getting a grip on the rusted and rounded remains
Mine were on offer ~£50-ish
seconded! absolutely superb tool, never failed for me
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ok, in that case does anyone know what part numbers I need for the idler/tensioner, crank pulley and belt that I would need?
Cheers
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Thanks for that
Was the set-up from gwyn lewis for the 200tdi? If so I will do the same as my welding skills are not quite up to the job just yet!
I plan on using my 100amp alternator to run the vehicle lighting, fans, radio and winch via a numax leisure battery. and the other (standard 65amp) alternator will run the main battery and starting circuits only. I have a x-charge that will only link them in the event of a alt failure
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I`m showing ESR394 for defender 200 TDI lift pump to filter ,, is that the one you need?
Sorry didn't notice this post, yes I believe that will be the one I need, thanks
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I might do the same actually.
They are long enough to chop up a bit, thinking buy the same leads, get some 350amp anderson connectors and crimp terminals. Got to be cheaper than the x-jump! Might even be able to sell the other 2 clips to someone wanting to do the same
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I too am having this problem now.
My 110 has 2 doors that cannot be opened from the outside and 1 that can't be used at all...but then they are 99% rust.
I have covered the drivers door lock and button in grease and the lock mechanism, then pulled the door card away a bit and went crazy with WD and the door seal. Hopefully it will open in the morning....if not I'll crawl in from the boot haha
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haahaha! brilliant
My landy is dead with no alternator at the moment...kicking myself, cant wait to get out and about!
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I have read that a couple of times, lots of links to it. But it doesn't really explain anything about the mechanics of the coversion, how to mount it, route the belt, getting the right RPM etc etc. Does anyone have any information on that?
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Looks like a eventful trip!!
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Standard is definetly best
Perhaps for the road, however I have found that having a fan on while going through thick mud/clay etc sucks it all into the radiator and blocks the bugger up. I am fairly new to this but found this to be a problem. Although this was from a electric fan on and off.
Personally I prefer the have the fan manually controlled.
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Very simple.. give gwyn lewis a ring.... pay over the phone and wait a day or two. fit within seconds and happy motoring
Does he do kits for both 200s and 300s, I know people have the 300 kits...?
RDX-Rear-lamp-lights-Land-Rover-Discovery-1-200Tdi
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Rear lights....that is almost definately the front of that disco lol