Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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Hey,
I am looking for the fuel tank that specifically fits a 110 station wagon under the drivers seat and fills from under the seat. I Believe this is a military part.
Could someone have a nosey and see if they can find the part no's for me?
Thank you
Adam
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Ok so perhaps I want a military 110 station wagon tank...i'll ask on the part number section. Cheers
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I have heard that 90 tanks don't fit CSW as the rear seat floor profile inhibits their fitment?
Looking to carry this out relatively soon, so any advice would be great
Adam
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Ouch,
I have taken something from this though as I too wear welding gloves when grinding, will now use my rigger leather gripped gloves instead
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Erm, no it doesn't - the point of running it from the charge warning light is that if the alternator can't cope, the light comes on and the relay drops out, so you're charging the main battery and only charging the 2nd one if the alternator is happy. Running it from ignition switched live you're basically paralleling both batteries as soon as you turn the key.
You are mistaken the relay will not disengage in that situation, alternators do not work in the way that if the alternator cannot cope the battery light will come on, that is not true, the battery light will always remain off regardless of load unless the alternator completely dies and the return to earth is completed. Or in other words it is possible to drain your battery while running without the light coming on if you put enough current across it. If you are in doubt as to the alternator you have, put in a manual switch.
As for X-charge, do it properly, get yourself a better version, the relay X-eng ues is not in my opinion equiped to deal with the tasks they suggest.
I have had a look at a kit and the relay is rated to 100amp and the wiring is a measly 16mm2, which are not sutiable for winching even with a peak load of 180amp
I made my own using 35mm2 cable and a 200amp continuous relay...cost me less than the X-charge kit and because it is stronger I have a manual switch on the relay I can leave them connected during starting.
Adam
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*gets sexually excited*
that is all
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Quad motor 8274...can imagine that being quite good!
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Hey,
I have a heavy duty alternator on my 200tdi discovery engine and I am finding I am going through belts at a accelerated rate and the position in my 110 is such a pain to get to and tension.
I want to relocate the alternator to the timing case area and change the pulley so I can make use of the aircon belt which should do the job much better
Anyone done this before, or better have a list of parts to do it? I have heard the there is a wolf part that bolts straight to the timing case for the alt?
Adam
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Hey,
Working on a 90 with a 92 discovery auto gearbox, just taken the transfer box out and the output shaft from the gearbox has noticable play which we believe to be the cause of a loud whining noise on drive.
Can this bearing be changed easily or are we talking a ashcroft rebuilt box?
Regards
Adam
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Seems to have done the trick, Not a permenant solution, but the heat has gone and so has the whine.
Reason for needing a quick solution was because I am off to Yarwell tomorrow, so that will test it
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Yeah that was the examiners view, but even so on such a questionable subject you would think it would be a minor if nothing else. I did like his comment at the debreif though... 'Your driving was exemplary, however, unforunately you didn't pass' lol
I am always quite questionable when it comes to driving tests, like above, for my car licence my first examiner was suspended for failing me, and I was refunded for that test.
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I've done the best in the time available, Fitted the new outer race, checked the shim size and re-assembled without the pto cover, measured the gap and made a suitable cardboard gasket, once torqued the play in the shaft just goes away, then put it all back together. I am hoping that will survive ok until I can rip the TB back out early next week
Adam
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I must admit, I am quite confused, seems like such a grey area on what is technically right and wrong
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Not meaning to bitch, I just havent had a chance inside of opening hours to contact ashcroft about it, but I did ask them to explain the procedure over the phone, but that wasn't correct.
Unfortunately I don't have the tools to get to the inner race just now, so will check the preload and do the outer race today, i'll report back to see if that has helped
thanks
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The engine braking thing is not a emmissions thing, it is to do with the fact they expect you not to be able to work out your gearbox and not be able to get it into gear leaving you in neutral and effectively coasting...even though the alterative by not engine braking leaves you in neutral anyway haha!
But, like simon said, he got points for doing exactly what I would have done under test situations if I did as the examiner pleased. :s
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Don't worry about the slowing down thing, it is the correct method, the examiner even said so on that one...it doesn't make sense I know, but I assure you it is now what they encourage.
Much like how engine braking is also now frowned apon, if slowing down from 30mph or more you should not go down to 2nd gear, you should come to a halt in third, even though that means you have to coast for quite a distance, which effectively renders you not in full control.
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Ah ok I agree with that.
Although it certainly wasn't a panicked fumble, quite controlled checking all angles. If I was past the point of no return I would have continued as normal, Just annoys me how they contradict themselves, just goes to show you cannot pass any driving test by doing things by the book.
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Ah, perhaps it appears that I am incorrect after all, have to admit though a serious for that is still a little OTT, ah well. Shame my instructor didn't call that during my training. At least someone on here might benefit from this though.
Still confused as to how red light cameras work though with that knowledge, hmm
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Ah so how do red light cameras work if it is ok for the rear wheels to cross a red?
The slowly down thing is completely fine if a traffic light is present, you have to do that now. But yeah you dont have to slow for roundabouts when it is clear.
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It's the new method, if you see a green light which has any chance of changing (i.e. pedestrian crossing with a pedestrian or illuminated 'wait' or a junction) you must let off the accelerator until you reach the point of no return, then accelerate again... I know, it's stupid
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Hey,
I didn't know what place to put this in. I just had my trailer B+E licence today and failed it, I am curious to get your opinion on the terms of my failure.
I got a serious for a traffic light, The light was green however I expected it to go red so had already begun to slow down, The light then proceeded to go amber before I was at the point of no return (final white arrow) therefore I checked my mirrors and promntly came to a halt (took a little effort but nothing substantial). After I continued on and thought nothing of it.
After the test during the debreif, the examiner said I should have proceeded, when I argued the point he stated I should have accelerated and allowed the rear axle of the car and the trailer to pass the red light as apposed to using the brakes, purely on the basis that I had a HGV behind me that could have hit me (miles behind)
Now as far as I can see this is mental! I cannot disprove it, but would like to confirm the theory.
Considering if you had a trailer and you ran a red light camera, is it actually legal to run a red light so long as the front axle passes the line in time like the examiner is suggesting?
Other than that, the test was otherwise very simple...just begs the question...what actually is running a red light?! :S
Adam
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Ok now I am a bit annoyed, I told ashcroft to supply me with everything I need and they said all I need to do was remove the old on and put theirs in. Hmm not all they are cracked up to be it seems
You are correct, I have used sealant as per ashcrofts instruction, I wont be able to get the correct seals before the weekend, any quick fixes anyone can think of?
Adam
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Yup full of EP90, ashcroft say the whine can be from pattern bearings...but mine came straight from ashcroft hmm
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Yeah, brand new and prepp'd by ashcroft, bearings were also pressed in by them, transfer box slipped straight on, no problems.
I'm trying to work out whether transfer boxes have some sort of shim or torque to control pre-load, but i'm struggling to find information
110 CSW Military Auxiliary fuel tank
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
That's perfect...any clue where I can get the full set of parts?
Adam