[transfer box getting hot]

Hi,

It is my car that this applies too I wasnt around last night so asked Grant to put it up for me

The heat is centralising around the top part of the transfer box, after about 1 mile the area around the input gear is hot to the touch but not scaulding, I have also noticed a slight whine.

Could it be that the PTO cover bolts act as pre-load on the bearing and I have done them up too tight?

Adam

[Poor starting, reving, white smoke, stalling]

Did you check valve clearances after changing the head?

Mark.

I did re-do the tappets

injector pump and timing are out.

re check the cam belt instal.

Think that's pretty much a certainty?

Cheers

Adam

[Poor starting, reving, white smoke, stalling]

Hey,

Could do with some help.

I just had my engine out while doing alot of work to my 110 with a discovery 200tdi fitted.

The engine had a new head gasket and timing belt while it was out

On the first start today it had the following problems...

Poor starting

Poor revving, hesitant and died down even with pedal depressed

Very lumpy, barely hold a idle without stalling

White smoke

Looking for ideas on where to start first, air lock? Timing was done with the LR tools and a angle gauge and rotated to confirm true at time of fitting.

Cheers

Adam

[Paddocks fast delivery:-)]

And then when the stuff arrives...you can send it back as it wont be the right parts

[New or remanufacturated]

Another vote for ashcroft...got parts from them and they are second to none

[Stolen !!! First Four Winch Bumper]

I now tack weld all my mods in place, few of my friends have had things nicked now

[How many miles on your clock?]

wow! 400k+ that's impressive

I'm on 283k

[Lost power and lots of smoke]

I guess head gasket would be a more logical explanation.

The TD blocks, especially at high mileages were prone to rings going, perhaps that might lead to the gasket failures?

[Lost power and lots of smoke]

Could well be the rings, my TD engine lasted 275'000 and even then it was still going, but the power started dropping, turned out the be the rings. I opted to just put a 200 in.

Adam

[Turbo-nutter Compressor]

Screw on-board air...I want that!

[Oily turbocompressor outlet.]

Sounds relatively normal, the turbo compressor shaft floats on oil bearings so some oil is expected to leak through. So long as you do not have blue smoke while the engine is running you shouldn't need to worry

Adam

[Water Carriers]

Hey,

Recently got myself 2 20L MOD water jerry cans for use as drinking water, I don't know what they were last used for so would like to sanitise them. Anyone know how I would go about doing this?

Thanks

Adam

[Has anyone used this chap for a 200tdi conversion exhaust pipe?]

The steve parker one is better, but they both work fine, clearance is about the same aswell

[Roof ventialation]

I have a solar ventilator on my 110, lasted about 5 years before it died, worked quite well with the dog in the back

[Fitting a 90 fuel tank to a 110? - Twin tanks]

Mines a CSW aswell, so what is the best option for the filler? can I do this with all land rover parts? possibly including the change over equipment?

[Fitting a 90 fuel tank to a 110? - Twin tanks]

Hey,

I am in the process of getting ideas together for a twin tank conversion in order to effectively run vegetable oil or any mix of it.

I think I have decided the best way to do it is to have a second tank for diesel with a pollak 6 port to split the tanks so I can start and stop on diesel and run on veg with a series of fuel heaters.

So I need another tank to hold the non-mixed diesel.

So history aside...can I fit a 90 fuel tank to a 110? seems a simple solution and would mean I can easily fit a gauge and a guard. There is nothing non standard on the RHS underside of my vehicle apart from rock sliders.

Pictures would be good also

cheers

Adam

[battery/alternator no charge light ALWAYS ON]

Right ok, I see where you are coming from now.

On his car the other bulb circuits I can think of on the same route that would provide a earth are the oil switch, fuel low light, brake differential switch and diff lock as I don't suspect he has the hand brake switch or seat belt circuits. But the only one I can think of that is normally earthed is the oil switch, so wouldn't that also be lit at the same time and both dimmed? On that theory there should be at least something else proportionally lit up for the alternator light to be fully lit up.

I'm not saying it's not the alternator as that would be my first point of call, the symptoms just don't seem to add up.

I can't see the resistor playing a part either. hmmm

guess then theres the 3amp load, which is far more than the light and resistor could generate..stumped lol

[battery/alternator no charge light ALWAYS ON]

Yeah, I understand mostly how the diode pack works but the other end of the circuit is connected to live not earth, the only way it could possibly find a earth is if something behind the dash was shorted as otherwise another light would need to turn on too no?

[battery/alternator no charge light ALWAYS ON]

I'm a bit confused as to the comments saying that it might be the alternator diode pack, this is a common problem with alternators but I can't work out why this would cause this.

The warning light is wired into the ignition live, so with the ignition off that side of the bulb cannot be getting a positive unless there is a short, and on the alternator end when the engine is not running all it does is act as a earth, so with the engine still off how can the light turn on without the key then on with the key, as nothing is happening at the alternator end to change the bulb condition. But as the OP said, now it doesn't turn on at all, but as we know it did at the wrong time, means it's unlikely to be something on the alternator end

The voltage across the alternator wont be too relevant if the bulb is not working as it should as that's how it generates it's voltage regulation IIRC?

I would start by checking the wires on the starter motor and alternator to make sure they are sound then remove the no-charge wire off the alternator and putting a wire from that to the battery with a 100ohm resistor inline, then start the car and test the voltage across the alternator output. That would conclusively prove or disprove if the alternator is ok or not.

After that check the conductivity between the bulb and the alternator no-charge terminal, then the resistance across the bulb holder with the battery disconnected (should show around 100ohm) then the voltage across the other side of the bulb to a earth to find out what stage of the key turn gets 12V.

failing that disconnect all the wires and wire in a new circuit! lol

[Galv Chassis .......]

paint it for the pure reason that it will be less of a target for thieves

[greenlaning lake district hot sunny day]

Gorgeous 110 you have there

I too was out and about at a pay and play, lovely weather for it.

[Transfer box confusion]

Ah ok

I called them and they said I needed ftc5089 which is the crossdrilled 26 tooth one

Going to order one tomorrow, and good call on getting them to push the bearings on, i'll get them to do that

Adam

[Transfer box confusion]

Hi,

I have a 1991 Discovery transfer box fitted to my Defender, with the designation 28D.

From my knowledge this means it is fitted with the 28tooth input gear and it suffix D. Is this correct?

The input gear is not crossdrilled, so does anyone know the part number for the 28 tooth cross drilled gear?

regards

Adam

[Tyre sizing?]

bear in mind tyre wear will make much more difference

[Battery jump start terminals...]

last time I checked I thought the solenoid pack never sent power directly to winch unless it was on...so the terminals on the winch are normally dead, so this idea wont work anyway.

Fit some andersons