Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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Gives me a bit of confidence you saying that, was thinking it was expensive!
Yeah I can build it up in situ, so brought more hose then I actually need, should mean I can make it nice and neat. Will also be using extra protection over the hose just to protect it a little, but it is triple steel reinforced hose! I'm using AN style fittings on a few other things (gearbox cooler for example) so at least it will be neat.
It is surprising there is a near on total lack of info on custom powersteering hoses on the net! I will do a mini write up when I make it up I think.
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Just to feedback a bit...
Quite difficult to get people to make these lines up, due to the high pressures suppliers are quite reluctant to do one-offs which is very odd as it used to be quite easy.
So instead I am going for a motorsports type set-up using Earls Performance Products parts namely....
M14x1.5 to AN6 adapter (Steering Box)
90 Degree AN6 hose end
Blue Powersteering hose (Rated at 2250PSI)
Straight AN6 Hose end
AN6 M16 Banjo Adapter
M16x1.5 Banjo Bolt (BMW Steering Pump)
M16 Aluminium Crush Washers
Costing the princely sum of £143, but at least I know the quality!
Adam
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I'll remove the whole unit and sort it, wont be able to test it for a few weeks though
My X-brake doen't rattle. In fact given how noisy my defender is anyway and my tinitus, I'm now not sure if it rattles or not.
You will know if it does, it's a horrific noise...the kind where as you drive away people will stop, look and wonder if your engine is about to fall out. Quite embarrasing really lol
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RIGHT !!!
Get a relay.
Brown to 30
White/ red to 87
Black to 85 then earth
Now you need to make that relay work
White to 86 from starter button.
Brown to Ign switch to make it lve. So link the brown to one side of the ign switch then a white to the starter button
You could also go brown to the button and a white out.
The orange /white should go to the hazard switch. Is I do not have a wiring diagram, is that white/ orange live or not ?
PLEASE, please use a fused link to try everything out, then a test lamp to see what is live and not live
GET OUT.
I've done this to the best of my ability ??? Any burnt or fried wires are not my problem
HTH
Sorry....this is incorrect. Good idea on using a relay...The starter has it's own relay so you have just used a relay to switch a relay.
You need to relay the brown to white, that's the high current bit
Oh and you have missed out the aux circuit.
Best bet, grab a second hand haynes manual, it's not hard if you know how to rig up relays.
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I've bought some PU18 Sealant, hopefully that will work!
If not I'll design a kit that is silent haha
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Why does it not come as standard with the fix....?
If I bought a car and it came with instructions on how to fix a standard fault I can't say I would be too impressed :/
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....Or just follow my post....
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Depends how you want it rigged up....
Are you still using the key? If you are then it's easy just put the push button between the White (IGN) and White-Red (Starter Relay) Wires. If you are not using the key switch then you need to rig up 3 switches including the accessory (I think it is the White-Orange, but I thought that was 300tdi). So you would need a toggle between Brown and White-Orange another between Brown and White and the push between White and White-Red
The lights you can do with as you want, up to you.
Please note though, the ignition switch is not fused
Oh and if you want better and faster answers explain what you want first.
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Here are the X-eng instructions if this helps
http://foundry4x4.co.uk/pdf/X%20Eng%20at%20Foundry%204x4%20X-Brake%20Defender%20Instructions.pdf
Steve
Instructions....never would have thought of that
I'll just use whatever sealant looks stronger then!
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Hi,
Sorry if this is a repeat question, someone must have asked this before but I can't find any answers!
My X-Brake rattles its bag off, I have heard it is the sealant used to hold the pads against the caliper coming apart and they just need re-sticking....is this the case? If so, any recommendations on sealant / glue to stick them back in?
Thanks,
Adam
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Score!
Next question (I am a complete newb at Hydraulics!) I am planning on using a banjo off the existing M16x1.5 thread on the pump and then have a pipe made up going straight to the box, anyone know what thread the box is off hand?
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I run a P38 power steering pump (which is the higher pressure you talk about above) on a 4-bolt box with no issues at all.
Oh so in that case I don't have a problem then
Was concerned the Box's seals wouldn't take the pressure -
Coming at it as a hydraulics install issue, rather than a mixed-vehicle parts problem, I would fit a 1100psi relief valve into the feed pipe.
I'm sure I've seen more than 1100psi on my 4 bolt pump with a landy diesel pump? I thought it was more like 1400 ?
Or what about a steering pump spring change, if it will let you?
Good idea, although, just had a quick look and the relief valves are serious money. Think I'll probably go down the custom bracket route and put a standard pump on. If someone has the PCD of the 300tdi that would help though.
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Yeah I tried that, it looks like a 300tdi pump but the part number is different so I can't cross reference it. Steering box is RHD TD5. So I know it's not the BMW pump at least
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The bracket is simple enough, I could probably weld something up without too much fuss to match a different pump.
M52 is a Serpentine, are they fairly standard in that if I bought a 300tdi pump it might match the pulley bolt PCD? Anyone able to measure the bolt spacing on a 300tdi pulley?
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Hi
Looking for some advice.
I am currently fitting a BMW M52 engine into my defender and need to plumb up the powersteering. Initially I thought I would just make up a line and job done. Then had a bit of a think about the pressures and noticed they are wildly different.
The label on the BMW pump is 110Bar (~1600PSI) and I believe the LR steering box is designed to work between 1000-1100PSI
Does anyone have any knowledge of putting in different engines and connecting up power steering? The internet is lacking info!
Thanks,
Adam
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M52B28 so will be running the gearbox at up to 6500-7000RPM
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Did you finish this off?
I have exactly the same issue as I have put a R380 in using the standard 200tdi mounting positions (BMW engine) and I am using the same adapter block and fittings as you.
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I that all fails then I'm interested in the gearbox!
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A LR is a compromise, like all cars
Modifications to said LR will be a compromise.
It depends 100% on what the owner requires from the car. Personally I have spent a reasonable sum on my car, but off road wise all I really have are tyres, springs, dampers, winch and under-body protection. I've taken the time to select tyres and spring rates based on my own experience and I have quite a capable truck and even then I am contemplating less aggressive tires to reduce road noise.
Yes you can fit lockers and the rest of it if you want but it will still be based on a LR and doing so will compromise it in some sense.
On another note saying you need winches and stuff for a pay and play day is nonsense, a recovery point is all you need! Personally I stay away from those sites now, they are just designed to wreck your car!
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"Like"
Going well bud, look forward to seeing this done. I'm bailing out of the Lexus route now, don't want my car off the road for ages again haha! BMW it is
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You star, thank you very much
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Hi,
Can someone measure the length of a R380 from a Defender, ideally from the LT230 Mating face to the Engine Mating Face, but just the length of the bell housing would be great. From what I can see the discoverys are identical in length, just the tailhousing being different. and V8s have the same input shaft length but the splines are a different length and the spigot bearing dia is different.
It's to work out the engine and transmission for a modified engine layout. (currently have a LT77 setup). Hunted the internet for a while but good information is fairly limited
Thanks,
Adam
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IMO Forged from a good manufacturer will be the best bet, stainless should not be used for any form of recovery work. But otherwise there is nothing wrong with welded, if done right. Personally though, Jate Rings are not the best solution for recovery anyway as it puts shear load onto the chassis and can damage it quite easily, Something bolted taking advantage of tensile strength or even shear/friction force is a much better solution.
Was concerned the Box's seals wouldn't take the pressure
Power Steering Pump Compatibility
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Yes this is for 1 hose, just the high pressure side (everything else is easy), with the different adapters to make it work. The adapters are the things pushing the cost up.
Problem is, local hydraulic places are either useless or will not carry out the work due to potential liability (PAS fluid being ultra flammable under pressure)
I guess one upside is that I can re-configure it in future...
I'll use the excess hose to replace the return hoses