RPR
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Posts posted by RPR
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That's the problem with these new fangled, untested coil springs. Nobody has any idea. It's all finger-in-the-wind and maybe it'll work. Plus all the extra bits that nobody really understands. "Control arms" and the like...
You don't want any of that gubbins. Leaf springs and a calloused arse are all you need! 😂 And possibly some dental work when your teeth rattle loose now and again...
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😅 That's a high tech cooling management system component, ie a section of dryer tubing that runs from the heater vent over the side.
The V8 gets hot and especially at 10,000 ft plus in the summer, keeping it cool is hard. So, last ditch is heater on full, driver's side vent shut and the elephant's trunk hanging out the passenger side.
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Not SoA, just Volvo C303 axles.
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Use a no-ground plane aerial and mount it to the wing. That one is a "Firestick".
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I have one. I cannot remember from whom I got it though. I think it would work with the seat belt bar, because when the back rolls down, it connects to the tonneau cover, so there’s room there behind the bulkhead. Can’t find a pic with the back rolled down - will have to look for one.
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Call Jake Wright, Burley-in-Wharfdale. https://www.jakewright.com I think the son runs the show now. When I did my V8 to 88" they had a checklist of all the parts needed ( I kept the S3 transmission, so easierish) and I sourced most of the parts for the swap from them. Very helpful.
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I can't speak to the R380, but the Series transfer case is plenty strong. There are several examples of Series T-cases running behind Small Block Chevy and Ford V8s (you reference a number of them above). I cannot envisage economically building an offroad friendly Rover V8 that would generate so much torque that it would cause the Series tcase to fail and leave the R380 in one piece. I have been running a 3.5 V8 in front of a Series main box and t-case with Suffix B low range for 10 years - 2 or so carbed and 6 under a NAS90 top end and Lucas Hotwire injection. Other than having chewed up the synchro on Second (driver error), I have not had a problem. Mind you, I don't thrash it.
You'll be fine with a Rover V8 and if the objective is massive power, a clapped out old SBC 350 from the breakers with fresh oil will deliver more power than a bells and whistles Rover V8, in which case, something other than a Land Rover might be a better choice
As advised above, the half-shaft will be the fuse in this system...
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Thanks Red. Have posted up there.
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Look north.... Thousands of ex-MOD Defenders across the border and lots of gun mounts. Also lots of guys doing their trucks up in full military dressing.
Why not ask on a US based forum?
Any suggested sites in Canada?
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Oh, there are no end to mounts available to hand and I have some Quick Fist rifle clamps. I just thought it would be nice to have these genuine items.
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I had them on my old lightweight, removed them as all you do is skin your elbows on them when you reach into the back for something!
Those brackets are slightly incomplete, there are two braces that go down to the bulkhead/seat back to steady them.
I don't suppose that you removed them to a handy shelf somewhere and would like to monetize them...
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Perhaps a more PC version than "hose down the Missus and work her all night"...
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I don't want to freak my international friends and colleagues out too much but we have guns here in the US, and reason to have them when out in the wilds. I normally carry a lever gun in 30-30 or 45 Long Colt, which is absolutely fine for any and all camp needs. Goes in a roll cage scabbard. And no, we are not allowed to drive with a long gun loaded (yes we can drive with a loaded pistol).
Roll cage scabbard:
But, I have seen pictures of Series Land Rovers with bulkhead mounts for the FN FAL/SLR/L1A1 rifle. I have a PTR-91, which is a semi-auto version of the German HK-91 and while not quite as good as the FAL, a very similar rifle that would, I think, fit in the FAL mounts
PTR-91
What the actual mounts/brackets look like:
So I was wondering if anyone knew of a source for these FAL bulkhead mounts. I can't imagine there's a lot of demand for them in the UK but then, I don't suppose there is a rich supply either.
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I have had a TruTrac in the rear axle (when it was a Rover axle) of an 88. The TruTrac, unlike a Detroit for example, is torque biasing, so there's very little to notice about it, except when you need it. As mentioned above, it is not a locking differential. If only one wheel has traction, it does not help. You can spoof it a bit by braking at the same time as applying throttle. There is no noticeable clutch action or loading/unloading with the TruTrac.
For a Series 4.7:1 diff, the TruTrac was quite a strong unit. In the above mentioned application, I have no idea. I did experience a number of long side half-shaft breaks at the diff end - but these were the chocolate and tin alloy Series half-shafts.
I would much rather have a selectable locking differential. If that is not feasible or cost effective, the TruTrac, in my experience (an 88") was useful - and that included use in the Malaysian rainforest.
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I love the Drumstick rig. No outward evidence that it's a stealth Series and then wham!!! - look at the leafer flex. Love it!
Very nice looking 88 there RPR, I'd seen the 3rd pic on Pirate I think.
I still wonder if I should try the mil/1 ton shackles on mine. But tbh, it goes more than well enough for my needs. And it would be a shame fiddle un-needed.
FF - I agree, I don't think ultimate articulation is required either. Which is why I've not really done anymore to mine now. However I would say, it now feels like a completely different vehicle. Far more stable and competent. Don't get me wrong, it went quite well previously, but there is a big improvement in all regards. It also rode the rough tracks very well green laning.
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Your 88 looks great in that last pic RPR! I remember reading about your Landy years ago before I could even drive, nice to see its still going
Thanks for the backhanded compliment (of making me feel like an old geezer) ;-)
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So I developed a similar suspension set up at the same time as Gon2Far and in fact frequently corresponded with him and compared notes. I got prototype revolver shackles from Great Basin in the US, had full length slip wide yolk propshafts made at the Propshaft Clinic in the UK and mucked around with shock mounts until Gon2Far came out with his, far better, and bought those. The revolvers gave a lot of articulation. In fact, too much. I had to put limiting straps on the rear axle so that it would not articulate out of the propshaft. They were very scary when unloading weight in an off camber situation, when descending a steep bumpy slope, and when locking up at high speed! I took them off when I put portals on my truck. With front and rear lockers and 36.5" tires, not so much articulation required
Early days in Dubai:
With Limiting straps:
Post portals - No revolvers just slightly longer than Military Length shackles and long travel (Gon2Far) shock Mounts:
And how it looks today:
So I would skip revolvers, run at least military length shackles, copy the Gon2Far shock mounts, and run parbolics with soft bushings. I recommend portal axles too ;-)
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They could build it elsewhere cheaper, but that would raise brand issues. Build it in Mexico to a Jeep compatible price with a NA compliant turbo diesel offer and the NAFTA market alone might make it viable. Mexico in turn has trade deals with Argentina and Brazil. To be viable, it needs solid market access and demand and needs to be priced under $30,000. That's not the EU. Aid agencies may say they want it for Africa, but they'll buy Toyotas... Tough to see this happening, frankly.
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In my experience, you never know until you check. My 1978 SIII had a mix of Imperial and Metric throughout. SIII bits were replaced with SII and SIIA bits at various times (let alone now that it's a full Frankentruck) and I have even found Whitworth threaded bolts in the past. My SIII is like a box of chocolates...
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Advanced timing 6 degrees and definitely felt improved low end performance, especially noticeable this weekend when up above 10,000ft for a good amount of time. Altitude creates several challenges, @ 35% less oxygen than at seal level, lower compression and about 35 - 40 less HP, which I can barely spare with my little 3.5 V8. Shoehorned into an SIII, that aluminium block makes a LOT of heat and at 10,000 ft, the boiling point for coolant is headed towards 200F and heat exchange is much less efficient. I have a heavy duty, high speed marine extractor fan installed in the right side of the engine bay that is extremely helpful and on long slow climbs will put the heart on full, which is uncomfortable but effective. I was able to run at 180F or less most of the weekend.
Got up almost to the snowline at one point. The attached picture is of one of Colorado's 14,000ft plus peaks and I met some folks on the trail who had hiked up it to ski early in the morning.
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Bowie,
Thanks for the speedy reply. I take your point that it should adjust to altitude, so I will go with "my perception is that it seems to run rich". Having said that, I guess the question remains whether anyone knows what the fuel mapping characteristics of the five settings are and whether any of them might be better at high altitude than the Saudi setting.
Still would like views on advancing timing
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My SIII runs a 3.5 block with a 3.9 top end and Lucas "Hot Wire" 14CUX ECU. The EPROM is currently set to the "Saudi" (yellow) setting. It runs a bit rich at sea level. Having moved to Boulder, CO, day to day driving is above 5,000 ft and wheeling takes place up to 10,000 ft. Consequently, compression and power decline and it runs quite rich.
Trying to figure out ways to improve tune at high altitude. Supercharging is not on the cards
Questions:
Does anyone know whether one of the other fuel maps will lean it out a bit ? "Australia and RWO" and "North America Non-cat" both seem options but I don't know anything about the fuel mapping characteristics of each.
As you will recall, 14CUS only manages fuel, not timing. Timing is controlled by the distributor. In view of the altitude and greatly diminished risk of pre-detonation (pinging), would it make much sense to advance timing "a bit"?
Any clever but simple/realistic ideas for improving compression?
Any other tips for tuning to high elevation?
Thanks very much.
RPR
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KM2 have been getting rave reviews for on/off road balance. The Firestone MTs that I had on the D1 were okay on road but wore quickly and were iffy offroad. Not sure if you get them there, but Interco Truxxus MTs have been very highly rated for wear and on/off road balance.
Tangential...
in Getting out and about
Posted
The tangent being that if the Wilks brothers had designed a motorbike, it would have been very like a Rokon: underpowered, no suspension, slow, but 2x2, easily field repairable, and largely unstoppable. So, with my SIII getting a new expansion tank and a new bracket fabbed, I took the Rokon with us on a trip to Rifle, in Garfield County on Coloardo’s western slope. If the tangent is too much of a stretch for the Mods, my apologies.
We’ve had a long, late Spring in Colorado and it will be snowing up on the Roan Plateau at 8,500 - 9,000 feet tonight. These pics were taken yesterday and it was sunny and dry but in the Fifties and Sixties. The Roan Plateau stretches out East - West from Rifle Gap about 10 miles west and ends in @3,500 ft cliffs overlooking rifle. The area is crisscrossed with deep gulches, tiny creeks and a few trails dating back to the 1950s when the area, designated the Naval Shale Oil Reserve, was explored. A few boreholes around and some high Summer pasture. But during my @ 35 mile trip yesterday, I didn’t see another soul up there and cattle haven’t yet been brought up from the valleys.
Trails are some quite decent dirt roads where I could get the Rokon’s top speed of about 35 mph on, to bumpy twin-track (Greenlane without the green), to some rocky/shaley broken ground, especially in and out of creeks and gulches.
Hope you enjoy pics