RPR
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Posts posted by RPR
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Drill, Baby, Drill!!
That's the ticket!!!!
Thanks for the advice. I will go at it with lube and see how that goes (let's make sure this statement stays within the context of fan motor bearings...)
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1999 D1 4.0 V8 auto (US spec).
Heater blower making ominous noises, very loud, when pushed past the first setting.
Had a good search and while there were quite a few posts on the difficulties associated with access to said unit on the 200tdi models, not surprisingly perhaps, not much info on 4.0 V8s. Were these sold in the UK and could anyone afford to run them? If so, can anyone tell me how difficult it is to get at, the blower and motor, and what this issue may be? Again, goes loud and dangerous sounding when cranked up past first setting.
Thanks.
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well after a lengthy discussion on the powerplus conversion and the di and tdi conversions he has decided on the tdi conversion so looks like in the spring i will be doing another tdi conversion so no dowt i will be on here asking loads of questions on converting a s111 swb to tdi. i know its more or less the same as a s11a tdi conversion but i think there are a few differances with the s111 so when we are ready i will start another thread. anyway once again thanks for all your help.
graham
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1962 2a swb 200 tdi.
Also a good call! Good luck.
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My advice is stick with the Series box. They are not very expensive in the UK and you can afford to recon one and keep it aside for switching in if you blow it up. I have run a 3.5 V8 and lately a 3.5/3.9 efi hybrid in front of a long abused SIII box turning 5.99:1 portal axles and 36" tyres, for two years and only just broke it this autumn while doing something stupid at highway speeds. As Fridge notes, you control your destiny. Treat it right and the Series box will hold up - and there are those who believe the IIA crash box is stronger than the SIII box. Converting to LT77 or R380 and LT230 will be more complex, take longer, and cost more than you imagined. Do the removable gearbox crossmember, keep a spare Series box on the side, and stick with the Series box.
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2.25 uprated is more reliable than a V8 I would say.
If you want reliability carbs are more reliable than EFI.
Again, I think the first remark above is probably valid. The 2.25 never, ever let me down, but it didn't have the power to turn Q78 Swampers.
I disagree with the second remark entirely (with the possible exception of the twin SU set up with which I have no experience). I had nothing but trouble with my Weber/Edelbroack "Performer" offroad, even after modifying the float bowls and jet springs etc. Even on road I had issues with it. I got so fed up, I went EFI (14 cux NOT GEMS) and after a year have had no problem and massive improvement offroad.
If you are okay with spending @ 700 - 800 quid (unless very proficient yourself) on the full ACR kit for 110/125, then this is an easier and probably more reliable way to go. But, go V8, you know you want to...
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Here's the link, please read before making a final decision.
Engine swaps always seem to take longer and cost more than they should.Pete, while I agree with this statement above, I'm afraid that this one seriously oversimplifies the ACR option:
I had the camshaft and the SU kit in mine and it was absolutely great. More power but still quite bulletproof and not a monster amount of work.No overheating issues, not enough power to blow other bits to pieces. Having done both an engine swap and the carb I'd recommend the carb + camshaft.
Installing the SU carb will only serve to overfuel an otherwise standard 2.25. Installing the 2.5 profile camshaft to the otherwise standard 2.25 will just fwk-up the timing. Together you will have a poorly timed, overfueled 2.25. Some porting and flowing of the head is adviseable, inlet and exhaust manifolds better able to compliment the increased fueling (and the increased airflow from something less restrictive than the highly effective but restrictive oil bath air filter) are important. In fact, the tubular exhaust manifold had a substantial impact on torque when timing was fully adjusted to take advantage of the improved breathing (and the exhaust behind it). But then, if you are still working off a 7:1 head, skimming it to at least 8:1 (or going for the ACR flowed ported and higher compression head) will also make a big difference. Moving to an optronic type ignition may also be a good idea.
Pete has a valid point of view, but installing an SU carb and a hotter cam without doing the rest, is pointless. And, if everything goes absolutely perfectly, then for something like 800 quid (when all is said and done), you may get 110 bhp / 125 torque. So still:Substituto non existam ad inchii cubii....
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I had all the bits and bobs of the ACR PowerPlus kit on the 4 pot when it was in the Tonka. The SU carb itself was super reliable and handled angles very well. Between the 9:1 head, cam, inlet and exhaust manifolds, the engine was substantially more powerful than a standard 2.25 petrol engine. Please read the "Everything you ever wanted to know about Tuning the 2.25 engine" thread in the archives as it is extremely informative. The full ACR kit gets absolutely everything there is to get out of the 2.25 without blowing it up.
And that is enormously less than the most clapped out, abused, un-loved, POS small block Chevy V8 will give on a bad day. Or, for that matter, still much less than the (in the UK) ubiquitous Rover V8 which actually weighs less than the cast iron 4 pot. So, my advice, having done both, is to skip the PowerPlus upgrade (which I think is a great piece of engineering by Roland et al at ACR) and put in a 3.5 on a 14cux wire. It's hardly complex, they are readily availble, it is a tried and tested conversion for which all the issues such as remote oil filter, BH mods, pedal fitment etc., have been addressed. I, for example, got everything I needed for the conversion - and quite a bit of advice included - from Jake Wright in Yorkshire.
If you were running a road biased Series in well restored condition for which apparent originality was important, the ACR kit would make a lot of sense. Otherwise, unless you are considering that demon oil, there is simply no substitute for cubic inches.
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I have Wilwood disc brakes and a LWB master cyl on a single line system. It was run through a remote servo from a jolly great truck of some description. In any event, they work well and don't take too much braking force. At some point, the vacuum line to the remote servo came undone and the sevo stopped working. I barely noticed the difference. I'm braking very heavy doubly thick Marsh rock wheels mounted with nigh on 36" tyres, so not exactly light. If you can fit a servo, I would do so, but you may be fine without one.
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Diesel Propane Injection System USD 729.00 (@ 450 GBP) plus shipping. An additional GBP 80 for the on dash controller if you want it.
Bully Dog Propane Injection kit @ GBP 380
Transeco Diesel Magnum Propane Injection kit Site doesn't offer a price for this kit.
These are universal systems. They are designed to fit the standard ubiquitous US propane tank (for barbeques etc.), so you need to make sure that it can be adaptable to a UK tank fitting. The Bully Dog kit with shipping, handling, duty, and even installation by someone else will be less than 700 quid. Just a thought.
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I am completely unqualified. The solution adopted by much of the diesel racing and pulling crowd in the US (these are however diesels on the 5.9 - 7.5 ltr scale) is generally: twin turbos, propane injection, water injection (cooling). While I am not qualified, these are the solutions that seem to have proven most successful with those who are. Worth looking at.
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Nice! Did you machine the taper in the portal box out or do Ford TRE's just happen to have the same strange taper as the Volvos?
Matt re-tapered the knuckles to take the Ford rod ends. Nothing suitable was found that would fit the existing thread. Have you guys made any headway on a solution ?
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Those of you with Volvo C303 portals who used the Volvo steering links will by now have realized the unfortunate design of the tie rod ends having the ball joints integral such that when the ball joints wear out, you need new tie rod ends. These have now become on par with hen's teeth for avaiability and even most sources in Sweden have dried up. On top of which, the steering links themselves were not on par with the axles in terms of strength. So, off to Matt Browne at Overland Engineering Overland Engineering for a solution.
Not entirely straightforward because of the curvature in the tie rod at each end, the Tonka now sports 1" diameter, 1/4" wall OM tubing and greasable 1 ton rod ends. Beefy enough that the whole vehicle can be jacked up on the tie rod!
Anyway, that's a relief. Despite the portals, I had managed to bend the Volvo tie rod and had gone through rod ends at rather more of a clip than I would have liked. These are Ford 1 tone rod ends, readily available and comparatively cheap.
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Hey guys, Im new to the forum, me and my friend have this Land Rover Series II which we got from Costa Rica. Theyre hard to get here in the US, (as im sure you know) and theres plenty of them in Central and South America. It only has 50 000 kilometers in it but the original paint is peeling. Now this is an aluminum body and I know it needs some special treatment to be painted. I was wondering if you all had some precious wisdom you would share about it.
Thank you!
Don't paint it! That's nice patina. Keep it. You may want to paint the wheels. However, as soon as you possibly can, get it waxoyled. One winter in Michigan will kill it and cost you a chassis swap ($ 2,000 + at least before all is said and done).
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It's worth checking in with the chaps at the Propshaft Clinic in Bradford. I have front and rear customs shafts from them, wider yolks, longer slip joints and a narrower diameter in front to help clear the crossmember. They subsequently made the propshafts for Nigel Aldred's Gon2Far Suspension kits for Series vehicles. Worth calling them to see what they could do a similar spec front shafts for you.
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I have the portaltek disc conversion. The actual brake set up is laughably simple, Wilwood rotors and calipers mounted on a very simple bracket. The key is in the stub axle assembly they build to allow the disc set up to work. I'm reasonably sure that they still do the aftermarket stub axles even if they have stopped doing the rest of the kit for some reason. In any event, as per above, check with Jez.
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Defender 90s were sold in the US 1993 - 1997. Only 500 110s were ever imported although I can't recall which year.
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Any chance of a wider shot to see how this box fits in ? And what engine is it ?
Regards
Richard
Sorry, haven't got a better shot. That's mounted to the manifold on a Toyota that was an event earlier this year. I think it was a straight six but could be a four cylinder.
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Mark's Adapters? Didn't he have the GM stuff? Worth looking at for ideas.
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Great for pannini!
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Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Tuning the 2.25 Must read thread.
In short, the answer is no. You can get 2.5 performance out of a reasonable 2.25 without going over the top. But, you'll get more torque and power from a run down carbed, composite gasketed, low compression 3.5 V8 than you ever will out of the most tuned 2.5 that you can spend a large fortune on. And similar mpg. I get better mileage on my 3.5 with 3.9 fuel injection than I had on the ACR 2.25.
It is worth the hassle and effort to put a 3.5 in, and a good SIII box will take the torque as long as you are reasonable. Rover V8s are pretty inexpensive and a modest tidying up (not a rebuild) will still cost less than trying to get 100 hp out of a 2.25. Anyway, if you were after a repower, I would go V8.
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Bill,
Some info on batteries
Lister-type or Listeroid diesel engines 6/1:
Video and Audio of another slow speed Listeroid No noisier than a 2.5 NA diesel at high idle.
Another video and audio with decibel meter along with this versions specs, a cooling system etc. Another Listeroid Set Up
I can appreciate the bias against solar. We have a place up in Vermont built in the 1740's and, but for the addition of a flushing loo in the late 1960s along with a propane tank to run a stove and refrigerator, it remains pretty much 1740's. No electricity, water from a gravity fed well etc. I looked into a Lister type gen set as per the last link above but we decided we prefer the place without electricity. The simplicity, build quality, and technology of the Lister type slow speed, cold start gens are very Land Rover compatible
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Bill,
As you say, for the purposes under consideration, the 2.25 engine is as much a generator as needs be. A combination of solar, efficient photovoltaic panels have now become quite cost effective, topped off by 2.25/alternator charge seems a completely viable approach. The key to these things is the right battery/inverter combination. And it's as much art as sicence. While there are some failry unsavory types in the community, the survivalist folks really have done loads of research and have developed quite practical systems. It's worth getting on their boards and doing some trawling. There seems to be a consensus in the US on forklift batteries as the best battery source given that their design is for high charge, long life, and constant deep cycle use. Based on my own previous research, 2 - 3 forklift batteries (no idea of cost at your end), @ AUD 1500 in solar panels, and about the same for a good full sign wave inverter, supplemeneted by 2.25 charge (and I like the Ford alternator idea above) as needed, would handle your electrical needs.
On the other hand, the Lister CS (cold start) slow speed (650 rpm) diesel generator is developing a huge following in the States and its design, origin, and quirkiness may appeal to you. Certainly worth considering. Lister CS slow speed diesel generator project The FuKing Listeroid Generator!
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I tend to agree with Jon. I would fit paras with standard shackles first and see how it goes. If the ltwt is fitted with a canvas top you may find that you have some propshaft angle issues. Make sure to fit the springs, tighten to low torque tight, bounce the rig around a field, then tigghten u-bolts to spec. You will still have the problem of the paras allowing articulation beyond the ability of the standard prop sliding joint. I strongly suggest a full length slip joint, wide yolk and narrow diameter front shaft. The Propshaft Clinic are great and will make custom shafts with the provision of flange to flange lengths on the phone Propshaft Clinic. I also agree that degree wedges just don't work over time. They do jiggle and come loose. At best, you have to remove them and re-tighten u-bolts. At worst, they damage/break the center pin on your paras and you end up with unintentional rear steer!
900's will make steering rather unpleasant and will present a serious challenge to half-shaft integrity substantially increasing the likelihood of spontaneous disassembly. Having said that, if you can get some well back-spaced steel wheels (please do not use spacers), an X-eng broken bit removal tool, and aren't afraid to change out a half shaft now and again, you may well really enjoy them....... except that 4th gear will grow cobwebs.
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Sorry, I don't want to look like i'm hijacking any thread but RPR, is you're machine (325x65x15's) fitted with leaf sprung axles, with such wide section tyres did you not have problems with fouling anything steering from lock to lock?
Yes, thus my self professed view that they were ridiculous. They were on the truck when I bought it (with the stock Rover axles) and they were very good in the sand, so I kept them for about a year. The Mangles 7.5X15 wheels had plenty of backspacing but to avoid fouling the steering lock was adjusted so far out that it had the turning radius of a Very Large Crude Carrier! It was susbsequently fitted with Marshal ATs in 32x10.5 R15 (good tyres) and Simex 32x10.5 R15 (great tyres) before getting the Q78/16 Swampers (on custom Volvo wheels).
Whats the going rate to change two head gaskets on a V8 Efi
in International Forum
Posted
Streaky,
Kaif al-haal ya sadiqi? Sorry, not a direct response but touches on issues rasied:
Later Rover V8 engine failures