RPR
-
Posts
535 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by RPR
-
-
Thats funny, well observed.
Nice truck and sounds like a cool trip you just done, did I see that on Expo?
I don't think TVTX 2008 will have been on Expo. A group in New Hampshire recently did a predominantly tarmac based run across the state, still a cool event, and that was posted there. TVTX was essentially all offroad: Oct 23 - 27, 335 miles, 70 trails, and 33 towns traversing Vermont north to south.
It was excellent wheeling but pretty gruelling and VERY cold at the start. We had snow the first day up in the mountains close to the Canadian border but, luckily, no snow at camp the first night even though it was well below freezing. We wheeled about 10 - 12 hours a day but only lost one vehicle; a very cool 80s Land Cruiser munched a 1 ton front diff. Lots of pics here:
TVTX 2008 Photo Galleries - click on individual names for different galleries
On the compressor, it's a Sandeman style (ie designed to fit A/C equipped Rover V8s, based on a design by (name escapes me) the company that makes the big, old school compressors normally in vertical format, fitted with an integral oiler, and manufactured under license by Kiki Diesel! I found it on Fleabay. If you have a Sandeman A/C compressor equipped RV8, it's theoretically a straight swap. If not (as with my 3.5) it needs a bracket fabricating. The rest of the set-up is all Kilby stuff, braided steel lines, a 5 gallon tank at the rear, over-pressure valve, regulator etc. It is truly wonderful and all thanks to the guru-like abilities of Matt Browne. Unfailing OBA for tyres (8 psi to 25 psi per tyre in @ 1.5 mins) and a working pressure of 120psi. It will run a rattle gun and most other air tools. One of the best mods. The compressor was @ 65 quid. The Kilby stuff was expensive though...
( I have to note that I got a lot of the info on here and that, as I recall, Tony Cordell had posted a good deal of research and explanation about the specs of various compressors - so the credit goes to him and to Matt Browne who made it all work. I, ahhh, "coordinated")
-
A Series style Chaff guard, Portal axles, AC Compressor converted to an air compressor (or hydraulic pump).
The GEMS V8 is too obvious to require comment (or excitement, for some!!).
Sadly, it's the fuel injection that I'm all worked up about. On the recent Trans Vermont Expedition (4 days of wheeling from Canada to Massachusetts using only unmaintained Class IV roads or legal trails) the carb gave me no end of trouble with stalling in tricky climbs and, worse, on some hairy descents, leading to much effing and blinding. Time to do what I should have done when the V8 went in the first place.
It's all 3.9 intake junk but underneath is still a 3.5. Original plan was 14cux but now going with MegaSquirt. We shall see how it goes.
-
other than the uberlit, post-bauhaus, modern sterility of the workspace what can one observe?
-
Both axles are 4.7 R&P. Given their age, it is a reasonable assumption (but by no means a certitude) that they are metric, ie use metric as opposed to imperial fixings and bits. This means, for example that you can fit a Detroit rear and Truetrac front without having to sleeve the bearings. The rear Salisbury shares certain characteristics with and is comparable in strength to a standard Dana 60. It requires a special tool, great patience, strong Faith, and very good health insurance to remove the diff from the housing. The front is ye olde Rover axle made out of an obscure alloy derived from chocolate and tin.
Hope this helps.
-
Afraid I don't know about diesel Landies. The only thing I can say is that the glow plugs are there to heat a small amount of diesel for the first combustion so I would guess their length of action is subject to the ambient temperature. On my Cummins ISB, the duration on the coldest days is about 15 seconds, so I would guess 15 - 30 seconds would be about the max duration for yours.
The 12v battery is fine provided it has the appropriate Amps or Cold Cranking Amperage (which is the measure this side of the pond) for a diesel. I believe 750 is the generally recognized CCA for a diesle battery.
Shift is Up far left for Rev and then an H pattern with 1st in the upper left, 2nd below, 3rd a long throw to the upper left, etc. If you have the original gearbox it is a durable but anachronistic one with no synchronisation cones which means you have to double de-clutch on shifts. Put the clutch in, move the gear lever to neutral, let the clutch out, puthe clutch in and move the gear lever to the next desired gear position.
Yellow lever depresses to give you 4wd in high range. There is no center differential, so in 4wd power is split equally between the front and rear wheels at all times. If you try to use 4wd on hard surfaces, you will eventually (rather quickish) destroy your transmission as it is unable to "scrub" wind up on hard surfaces. To disengage 4wd High Range, move the red lever back (which is how you engage 4wd Low Range) and then forward again. This also required double de-clutching (see above).
Lights inside gauges: Red is the charge light. When lit, it means that the alternator is generating insifficient charge for the battery. Blue light is your high beam indicator. I forget what the green light is...
It is a great vehicle and you will enjoy it, much of the time.
Best of Luck!
-
I think i may be giving myself another mod i doubt i will be able to finish!
After looking at Fridge's 109" on portals,i wouldnt mind having a go with my 88" but how difficult is it gonna be?
Anyone got any pics?
Steve
It's not that hard. This may provide some help: LRM Article on fitting portals
The basic deal is grind off C303 spring perches and fabricate new ones to suit the 88". Fabricate new shock mounts. Pinion flange patter is the same as is basic length so you keep your propshafts. Decide how you actuate the vacuum lockers (I use an electric vacuum pump that is intended for fish tanks, but you could use an old Mercedes diesel vacuum reservoir for example) and work out the steering. The last is tricky. I used Volvo stuff, but I suggest using Land Rover stuff where possible. It will need some fabricating and I believe there are restrictions on welding steering bits in the UK?
The portals are amazing and will transform your truck, but once you put 36" + tyres on your truck, you will find that the 2.25 doesn't cut it. You will want more power = new engine. You will also need an overdrive. I love my truck, but if I were in the UK, I'd buy a Defender and do a Toy axles swap with e-lockers
-
I got one from LEGS about 3 years ago and was impressed with their work and logistics.
-
By "great hassle" I assume you mean "loss of forward motion followed by a potentially expensive bang"
something like that
-
Do not apply either 4wd high or low range while driving on tarmac or other hard surfaces. There is no center differential, so when you are in 4wd the transmission will wind up and eventually cause you great hassle. On soft surfaces, the tyres "scrub" releasing the energy stored up in the transfer case.
Your door locks are adjustable. If you look at the latch into which the door clicky-slidy thing sits, you will note that it can be adjusted by loosening the retaining screws and moving the latch with a light hammer tap. Trial and error will eventiually get you to a better fit. If the door lock bar (aka clicky-slidy thing
is not retaining at all in the latch, some gasket material may help better position the latch.
-
Why? A well set up leaf sprung suspension will be just as comfortable and eefective off-road and can be nearly as comfortable on road. Good parabolics, OEM rubber bushings, the right shocks tuned for the softer springs, and the right tyre pressure will get you very close to coil comfort with a lot less hassle. Finally, while people have successfully modified Series chassis to fit coiler axles, they are few and far between. If you are dead set on doing this, my view would be to graft a Series body on a cut down RRC rolling chassis.
-
I used the RRC flywheel and a Series diesel clutch.
-
Hi Guys,
I have just purchased a 1974 series 3 Light weight and would like to fit free wheeling hubs to the front, I am looking at 2 different sellers on fleabay one is selling 10 spline fwh and one is selling 24 spline fwh and I am unsure which the vehicle has, can any one help me,
Many thanks
Unless the differentials and halfshafts on your ltwt have been modified to a later 24 spline set up (in which case the axles will protrude out from the hub and wheel) you have 10 spline half shafts. That much I am sure of. Of course, if they have been replaced with regular Series halfshafts, they will also protrude and still be 10 spline.
As I recall, ltwt halfshafts are narrower than regular Series halfshafts, such that while you can replace ltwt halfshafts with Series halfshafts (and they will protrude) you cannot use ltwt halfshafts on a regular Series truck. The point being, it is my belief that you cannot fit fwh to the ltwt halfshaft because the stub axle is shorter than a regular series stub axle (they had to be narrower for air portability) and closer to flush with the wheel. I could be wrong on this and you should most definitely seek corroboration from others.
If that is correct, it is no great issue, but you will need to replace the front halfshafts with regular series 10 spline halfshafts and can then use 10 spline fwh. Again, please wait for corroboration from others before acting on the advice above.
-
My understanding with regards to cross-bolting/non, is that this becomes an issue when one is building/tuning for high end performance and horsepower. Nonross-bolting is suboptimal in say, a TVR application where the 4.0L and 4.6L are a better place to start your build. In yhour application, you are looking for a flatter torque curve and can sacrifice a bit up top end hp to get it. In this application, the 4.2l is a fine choice. Depending on budget, you may want to go for a slight skim of the heads, a little port matching, especially to the exhaust manifold and possibly some long tube 4 into 1 headers. A slightly lumpier cam profile wouldn't go amiss. In any event, it's a perfectly good engine as far as the RV8 goes and a torque focus will do you good, especially as you seem to have some strengthening in mind for the autobox.
As an aside, I don't get this new rage with autoboxes. I can't stand wheeling an auto and really find it quite disconcerting in the Disco. But then I prefer a leaf sprung vehicle with a wee little 3.5 with carb and a 4 speed gearbox made out of tin and marshmallow, so ato each his own...
-
take it to the center of the axle where it effectively moves least, leave room fo the movement that does occur, and then route them up to at least the level of your air intake.
-
That's probably the "special" one PR are trying to sell you. I paid £50 for mine, and yes the car will do 70-80 happily although my gearing's a bit different to Mogs overall.
LOL! Perhaps a little too subtle in this case. You did try to save him though...
-
If it's in good nick and doesn't leak like a sieve (no vents), why ditch it? They are remarkably effective (by Land Rover standards) in dissipating heat.
-
As per Firdge's remarks above, I shouldn't worry about latteral stablity in a 90 given the unsprung weight and the axle width (although the latter has validly been raised as a separate issue of concern). The problem, as you seem to have rightly identified, is fore and aft stability in a hill climb or rock-climbing situation. I am not very comfortable in my 88"(ish) on 36" tyres in steep climbs and a few extra inches of length isn't going to do it. On the other hand, 110 inches is awfully long when you get into woodland trail type terrain. I think you are onto something with the bobtail concept, but I would suggest taking it one step further. Chop it down to somewhere in the 100" - 104" wheelbase range and trayback it. That is an ideal wheelbase and the trayback has proven utility.
Why 40" tyres? Is it to aid in raising gearing ? If not, that's an awful lot of tyre. With the Mog axles you will have somewhere in the area of 22" under the diff. That seems....excessive. You will need a lot of power both to push those tyres around and to brake. If your heart is set on 40", so be it, but I find 18" under the diff on my C303 axles and 36" Swampers just fine, while I find their rolling resistance,even with a 3.5L V8, rather much.
In any event, good luck with your project.
-
... although it's about 21" too short
Only sometimes!
The short wheelbase does drive me round the bend on rockclimbs, but out in the woods in New England, that 89.5" wheelbase is extremely helpful.
-
I take it we are talking about a 109, yes? As per above, adding the 1 ton shackles will not give you much in the way of lift, but it may be enough. On a 109, the angles may not be severe enough to require degree wedges to adjust pinion angle and mitigate propshaft vibration - maybe. More importantly, you don't want more lift. Lift is very Eighties. What you should do is get out the measuring tape and dremel and trim your wheel arches. Better to keep the CoG lower and focus more on an effective stuff. You want to be balanced and more lift will not help in that respect.
Matt Browne, Overland Engineering in Maine, just reworked some of the suspension geometry on the Tonka, moved the damper mounts and replaced the Revolver shackles with fabbed shackles about 1" shorter than 1 ton. This has improved stability in off camber situations and, with front and rear lockers, I don't need super long articulation. You won't be able to get 36" tyres on your rig (half shaft issues aside) because of the portal effect, but this is pretty well set up:
-
[pedantic]that's not a 101[/pedantic]...nor a wheel winch. Nor do wheel winches work very well. Complicated, messy, and only work wellish in a straight line.
-
Toy SOA is an excellent idea and if done well will give you high performance while maintaining good series looks. I would suggest using Series rear parabolics - probably three leaf - on the fronts but perhaps Hi-lux springs will work well. You are going to have a couple of other issues that you may not have yet considered.
- You will likely need to fabricate a drop pitman arm as your steering rod will be at a sharper angle SOA. If you are planning on 35" + tyres, you will also want to take the opportunity to go PAS as well.
- You are going to have a problem with your front propshaft binding on the crossmember. At a minimum, you will need to notch the crossmember, but since you are going to need new propshafts as well (you will have binding issues at the T-case, and they will likely be substantially out of phase, along with the fact that you will need longer slip joints), take the opportnity to get a narrow diameter front shaft which will help with this. I always recommend the Propshaft Clininc in Bradford. Once you have the set up done, give them the t-case flange to pinion flange distance and then tell them you want wide yolks, narrow diameter front, full length slip joint etc. They are very knowledgeable. You still may need check straps to stop separation of the rear prop.
- It would be best if you adjusted the spring perches on the axles so that you can adjust the pinion up a bit (between 4 and 6 degrees?) and mitigate the impact on castor.
- Extended brake lines.
- You mention wheel offset, so you may have already considered this. I can't recall how much wider the Toy axles are, but you don't want to exagerate the effect with additional wheel offset. In fact, you may want negative offset. Then you wonta have to have enormous wheel arch extensions that ruin the character of the truck.
This is a great project. You may find some helpful advice here:
and here's something to shoot for:
A rather nice SOA that belonged (may still?) to Timm Cooper.
-
Wedges may not be absolutely ideal but as long as you keep an eye on your ubolts and make sure they are tight and all is ship-shape on a regular basis, they should be fine.
-
Leafers rule! Nice rig. B)
-
I have now fitted the parabolics to the 80(after some useful advice on removing the front prop - 'twas siezed) and now have a diff that's angled down on the front axle.
From searching on here I see that wedges have been used to correct this - are these a commercially available thing or self build? If commercially available where from? I noticed several people having had problems with them working loose is there any reason why I couldn't weld them to the spring seat?
ta in advance
Example of some 6 degree wedges
I got mine from ProComp Explorer (?) in the UK.
not sure what offroad shocks to buy
in Series Forum
Posted
Regardless of the brand, make sure they are correctly set up/valved for your application. With standard leaf springs, you will want a somewhat more supple damper compared to parabolics or high compression coils. I had a set of Rancho adjustable shocks on my 88" with parabolics and it was not a good combination. The ones that fit were off a Dodge Ram and only on the lowest damping setting were they bearable.
I use Procomp ES9000s and they are great and have taken a LOT of abuse.