RPR
-
Posts
535 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by RPR
-
-
Heath,
Thanks very much. Found it here Caswell Exhaust Coatings. $19.95 for a 4 oz pot which they say is enough for a set of small V8 headers or cast iron manifolds. That's the ticket. I'm also looking at raising the rear of the bonnet (acts as a defroster in the winter too?
) I think diminishing heat from the manifolds will be the big win. -
So this afternoon my daughter came out while I was fiddling with various and sundry bits on the truck and I solicited her ideas on the subject. I thought her approach quite sensible:
"Cover those rusty pipes (exhaust manifold) with rubber or something to keep everything cooler"
"Put in a 'pipe-thingy' to bring in air from outside to under the bonnet" (Sounded like a snorkel concept to me)
"Put a fan in the side (inner wing) to pull the hot air out".
So, from now on, I'm not going to bother seeking the admittedly excellent advice from experienced folks on the Forum, I shall instead rely entirely on the sound advice of my 8 yo daughter
-
These are pretty good ideas. Zoltan - good call on the header wrap, I've got some coming. Trying to avoid any cutting into the wings or bonnet, but that may end up being the best/only solution. I wouldn't worry too much about vents and rain. It's not like it's dry in there when it rains anyway
-
e_Bay link - Relevant but bonkers!
Apparently it vibrates under braking! I wonder why lol!
Wow. And I thought I'd seen everything....
-
Thanks to you both for the positive comments. I think the bonnet venting holes may work well. It has certainly been a solution for the RRC crowd and it looks quite good on that very smart 90, but I just think that it would look sort of 'boy-racer' on my S3. I didn't really like the wing vents on it previously for much the same reason.
I had thought about mounting one of those slim line electric fans to the bonnet, but that's just going to push hot air around in the bay unless there is venting to pull cooler air from outside in or vice-versa. And the only thing naffer than wing vents would be some kind of Hummer-like bonnet grill
What rad are you running in the Ltwt with the 3.5? I have a narrowed RRC rad with the integral oil cooler and, as I said, water temp is always good. With the Ltwt, if you aren't ready for a different radiator solution, I'd consider the following lower cost approaches (which I used effectively to cool the 2.25 when living in Dubai): an 8 blade military fan, really effective shrouding (often overlooked but critical), run a military oil cooler (not sure that it has the capacity for the 3.5? - I got mine from a Sharjah scrappy for about 15 quid), and possibly install an auxiliary pusher fan on a switch (I believe Ford Taurus scrapyard fans are popular in the UK). I ran the ACR 2.25 at 40+ C in Dubai without issue, and the oil cooler seemed to make the biggest single difference. I only ever needed the pusher fan when things got seriously hot and we were in the big dunes. Granted, that was the 2.25, but they are all bolt-on potential solutions to consider for the Ltwt...
-
So, LHD Series III with a Rover 3.5 block and 3.9 top end running on a 14 CUX with retained engine fan. The water temp is fine, never tops 178 F. However, it gets unbelievably hot under the bonnet. So hot that touching the wings, especially the driver's side, is painful. At road speeds, all is well. There's enough air flowing in under the bonnet (slightly larger than usual gap between bonnet and catch) and around the engine bay to help transfer heat out. On trail however, moving at slow speeds for extended periods of time, while the water temp remains fine, the idle will become lumpy/diesely, power will diminish, and eventually idle stalling will occur.
I think that the coil getting extremely hot is a factor, as may be the lack of cold air intake. Previously, before treating it to new wings, I had cut side vents at the rear of the engine bay on both sides (picture below):
I don't believe that these vents made any real difference, probably being too small.
So, other than cutting large holes in the bonnet or wings (passenger side has the heater vent hole about six inches from the trumpet of the air intake under the bonnet)doesn anyone have good ideas and examples of less obtrusive ways to shift heat out of the engine bay.Liquid nitrogen mist would be great, but I'm shooting for less exotic and, preferably, something very discrete.
-
If nothing else, you have failure in at least one engine mount. There's no way it moves around like that with both mounts intact. Good of the garage to check it out for you.
Otherwise, aside from the torque-thudding chassis rattle, it doesn't sound particularly odd for a 2.25 diesel. Definitely needs some love though. With all due respect, there are signs of neglect in that engine bay. Check engine and gearbox mounts. Pull the rockers and check tappets. Once the mounts are solid and tappets adjusted properly, if you still have full power (otherwise it will be a head gasket) and it sounds like that, it will make a perfectly good boat anchor...
-
Before you get to internals, make sure you give your gearbox and engine mounts a through inspection. They go with some frequency and play in either might give you engine torque "thud".
-
...the guy said the chassis was oiled regually before wrapped up.
Was that manually/intentionally or only via Land Rover's integral chassis oil & lubrication distribution system
-
Where can you actually get revolver/scissor shackles from? Where is it that specifically sells them?
New ? Unless there is a successor to Gon2Far you may be SOL. Ebay, Sodbury, etc. You might try Bill at Great Basin Rovers. He may still have a set floating around or know where to get them.
-
Go for it. To get them open and delivering travel, you will need long travel shocks, parabolics, new shock mounts, new wide angle yolk, extended slip joint, narrow diameter props, extended brake lines, extended rear check straps, a scalloped cross member, some degree wedges, and strong sphincter muscles. Nigel (whose last name escapes me at the moment) of Gon2Far fame built a superb kit using Revolvers, although he had a different front end system. I did my own using a set of prototype revolvers that I got from Bill at GBR. I ended up using Nigel's shock mounts which were very well made.
You will get substantially greater suspension travel (thus the need to build up that sphincter):
You'll loosen up that front end for certain. (However, unless yours came attached to a set of Volvo portals, they don't allow you to fit 36" tyres ....
) They are a little hairy when they unload. When weight transfers from the rear offside wheel to the front nearside wheel on descending a rocky gulley, well 
But you've got 'em, so give it a shot. -
Amen to James & Peter.
A friend once told me "You will never have more fun than your first off-roader, because the more you modify the less you have to think" and it's quite true. I took the Freelander marshalling and it was a hoot trying to get it round the site with skinny road tyres, no ground clearance and only front-wheel drive. Everything was a challenge, everything required more thought & skill to get through and you had to read the ground with a microscope.
Being stupid enough to have modified my 109 I find that, although the performance now is awesome (it's a far better truck than I am driver), everyone expects it to be awesome so you get people following you round hoping you'll get stuck so they can have a laugh. No-one is impressed by anything you do in it, because they (probably rightly) expect that it should be able to drive anything and it's just the idiot behind the wheel holding it back
As another portal V8 Series owner, I can only say you got that right. Every now and then, I take my stealth wheeler, a '99 Disco 1 on 235/85R16s, wheeling and it's almost as much fun as wheeling the Tonka. It weighs 12 tons, it's got a big fat arse hanging out and there's about 4mm under the diff (that's how it feels after the Tonka) and I have to drive so much more carefully and skillfully not to destroy it. It's a blast. And I'm often on the trail with people in stockish Series trucks watching that bump and grind wheeling that I remember so well and getting rather nostalgic - and even more so when I'm begging John to help me find Volvo hub seals made out of pure unadulterated unobtanium
An 88" on 235/85 MTs, some rock sliders, diff guards and a winch (maybe a tank guard) will give you five years of great fun and excellent education. Then you can do something stupid like put a massive diesel engine in it, Mog axles, and power steering....
-
The axle and center do look remarkably like an ENV but I would imagine trying to make the locker work with a @ 4.1 R&P may be a serious challenge given the major size difference. I don't know the spline count, but the C303 ring gear is 2.91:1 so trying to make the locker work with something in the 4.0 - 4.7 range would seem to present huge challenges.
The locker is easily actuated. On my 88", the front actuator cover is quite close to the chassis and until I modified the bump stop, I nailed it a few times. When the cover gets bent, it breaks the seal and that's, that.
-
Not mine. But I was there when he found traction on the ice wall at 6,000 rpm, and heard the Ring Gear disintegrate. It was a worthy effort!
-
Why not go engine driven? I have a Sandeman style compressor on mine and a 5 gallon tank. It will run a rattle gun and fills up 36" Swampers in seconds. I think I got all the necessary information on the set up and specs from a Tony Cordell info thread on here.
-
As has already been pointed out above, there is a big difference between an engine brake and an exhaust brake. An exhaust brake would be perfectly appropriate for LR diesels for your intended use in further slowing the vehicle in mountain driving. I have a Jacobs exhaust brake on my 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel in my 3/4 Dodge pick up and use it as a supplement to the excellent Dodge disco brakes not only when towing. It definitely extends the life of your brake pads, but not enough to cover the cost of the brake! When towing, it provides a huge confidence boost and coming down the Western Rockies on the way to Moab was very important to have.
I am not familiar with the Isuzu system referenced above, but it is simply an exhaust in-line butterfly valve, so presumably someone with more engineering skills than I could build something for a Land Rover system. Just make sure that with the valve open it isn't restricting flows. And enjoy it!
-
OT!
Not anymore!
A guy in Sweden has them made now.
http://www.fmv4x4.com/?page_id=30
No connection, other than happy customer.
/OT
Tobias
Great!.....now that I've had custom links made to fit Ford 1 ton ball joints....
-
I started out with a 3.5 sporting an Edelbrock (Weber) Performer carb. It blew monky chunks off-camber. I have never driven a 3.5 with the twin SU's, but I understand that their performance off-camber is quite good, so if that's your planned replacement, it may be worth sticking with it.
I now run a 3.5 bottom end with a 3.9 top end and 14cux EFI. It has been spectacular to date and the 14cux is what, 3 wires? Not exactly complicated. Of course you could take the opportunity to go MegaSquirt and MegaJolt, which would be very cool
John Utteridge has a 3.9 (as I recall) in his beast and I'm pretty sure it's MS/MJ'd up. I'm sure he'll be along to share his experiences.
Given the casting issues in the 4.0 and 4.6 blocks, slipped liners etc., that are increasingly turning up, and the theory that worn tooling in later blocks may be a factor, sticking with an older but solid 3.5 has its attractions.
-
Hmmmm, Works for my 35watt 2m ham radio dual band antenna & my MSA Rally radio gives me a good SWR reading on both units.
I'm not trying to set myself up as radio guru here. Your set-up on an aluminium roof shouldn't work. But I'm glad to hear that it does. Effective ground plane should require sufficient ferrous metal surface. Aluminium and/or birmabright and its realted products, should be insufficiently ferrous to provide ground plane. Some additional resources on the issue:
-
Slightly OT, but can anyone explain to me why people fit a foot square of steel to antennae which are mounted in the middle of an aluminium LandRover roof, or even why the roof bar attached to 2tonnes of LR underneath it isn't enough for a CB ground plane?
Aluminium doesn't work as a ground plane. Not sufficiently conductive/magnetic or something else. But aluminium is no better than fiberglass or wood. You need iron/steel. 1 square foot seems to be about the minimum it takes. A light bar won't do it either because it generally offers insufficient surface area.
-
It's not just a question of shock length. Parabolics are more supple/flexy than the standard leaf pack, therefore will benefit from a somewhat stronger valving in the shock to get the full on-road benefit of the parabolics (which, admittedly, isn't really much better than a well maintained leaf pack, the benefit being off-road biased).
-
Ugly bolt on CTIF.
-
Danger! Don't buy this winch twin-motor. First it will annexe your bumper, sign a non-agression pact with your engine, and then invade the engine anyway
-
It shouldn't be, using a traditional base. Using a "no ground plane antenna", it will be fine. Having said that, it may well work just fine. Certainly worth trying it out to see. The rule of thumb is generally a square foot of steel is the minimum, but you could be just fine.
) I think diminishing heat from the manifolds will be the big win.
) They are a little hairy when they unload. When weight transfers from the rear offside wheel to the front nearside wheel on descending a rocky gulley, well 
But you've got 'em, so give it a shot.
Bulkheads, what's the options today?
in Series Forum
Posted
Hit the search button. You're looking for the link on herte somewhere to Ashtree somethingorother. They do full bulkhead restoration and have had good feedback.