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Everything posted by bleyseng

  1. Because its not a standard spring setup. The springs are +2", but until now the shocks were standard, and would bottom out. Recently one failed, so i replaced them with +2" shocks. Anyway, the consensus is that i should remove theinner spring nd fit cones. Thanks guys.
  2. Hi there. I recently fitted the correct length +2" shocks to my Hi-Cap 110. Since then i have had my rear springs dislocate twice, whilst off road. My rear springs consist of the normal large spring, plus an extra inner smaller spring inside the big one. Im guessing the purpose of the inner spring is to provide support for heavy weights. My question is: Can i fit regular dislocation cones on the back, even if i have this inner smaller spring? Thanks in advance.
  3. Well regardless of what anyone 'thinks', it seems im the only one here who has actually turned up at a test centre at which i get about 30-40 trade mot's a year, with a vehicle without doors on, and has been turned away. But it would seem that this info is not convincing enough.
  4. I think they wouldnt test my customers vehicle, because it was missing doors that it was designed to have. To meet crash test regulations most vehicles require doors to avoid the passenger area crushing up. Also, just like defender doors, the wing mirrors are attached to the doors. No doors no wing mirrors. A mini moke was designed without opening doors, as i recall you just 'hop into it'. So there would be no issue with it, and its a different type of vehicle altogether.
  5. An mot tester would not even test a vehicle, if it had no doors, when it was designed to have them. I know this because i have asked. I had a vehicle i was restoring for customer. The project was running over time, i had to get it mot'd but the doors were not ready to be fitted. I asked if they would mot it without doors. They said no way. I personally would take this as an indication that, its probably not legal, unless the vehicle in question has been seriously modified, strengthened, inspected and signed off by the appropriate body. A head on collision without doors on could seriously af
  6. The sound is very much like an electric motor spinning, but very fast and very loud. Bonnet was open, and it sounded like it was coming from the turbo. I now realise that it is unlikely to be the turbo. Whatever was spinning, sounded like the motor of cheap hairdryer spinning at a speed faster than it was designed to. whatever it was, it sounded like it was stressed, and was about to let go.
  7. My friend picked up his 90 today. Ive been working on it for the last couple of weeks. I went out on a test drive with him, but when we got back to the workshop and the engine was idling, i could also hear the turbo whirring away like crazy?! What could cause that? I have done a search but cant see any info on turbo's. I have no idea how they work, or how they switch on or off. Any pointers gratefully recieved. Thanks.
  8. Had this problem on a 1989 2.5 TD 90. There is a lot of info to be gleaned from lots of previous posts in the forum, although a lot of the posts do not have any pics or do not explain the outcome of the troubleshooting. I had a lot of help from members on this forum but it still took me a while to work everything out. Hopefully this will make it relatively simple. Ok, in summary, the engine is running, you park and want to turn off the engine. You turn the key but the engine keeps running. Probably what has happened is one of these things: 1/ The rubber stopper on the end of the fuel stop so
  9. Hallelujah!!! Sorted it. Went to Maplins today. Bought Resistors and diodes. Found the resistor first, in the fuse holder just like you said Western. It seems i hadnt stripped enough stuff out of the way to see it. I replaced the resistor but it made no difference. I was gutted, but then i had my last chance saloon fix which was to insert a diode in the run between the resistor and the alternator, (Brown with yellow tracer). This is how my 300TDI is wired. It only bloody well worked! The only slight difference i have noticed, is that the battery charge light is just a shade dimmer. Maybe th
  10. This resistor. Is there anything special about it. I have been Googling the part numbers that Western quoted for the originals but i cant find any info on them and nobody stocks them. If i had some information on the resistors rating then i could probably find an equivalent somewhere. Alternatively, i could fit a diode like that other chap did, but again i'd need some advice on what rating/type it would need to be. If anyone could advise i'd be very grateful. Thanks.
  11. IIRC? what does this mean? Thanks Western.
  12. This is exactly the fault i am having, even down to the volts at the solenoid. But my problem is that i have the instrument panel out and the steering wheel out of the way and i just cannot see for love nor money a black fuse holder that would contain a resistor or diode. I just have a white (with black tracer) wire coming from the ignition switch, which then heads into a clump of white wires and from there goes god knows where? I have a few questions, if anyone can shed some light i'd be very grateful, and ill use the info to write up a 'how to' with pics. 1/ Is this resistor/fuse holder,
  13. I am determined to find the cause of this fault. I have read so many posts about other owners who have this problem and yet none of the posts end in an explanation of the cause of the fault or how it was fixed. If i ever find the fault im going to document how it was corrected.
  14. If i did have a short in the ignition switch then my rocker switch in front of the ignition switch would negate that, which is partly why i installed it. Also this fault occured in the old switch and housing. I changed the switch and housing day before last and this problem still exists. It surely cant be two faulty ignition switches?
  15. Tried a different version of my work around. I disconnected the white and black wire from the ignition switch. I ran a new wire from the ignition switch (terminal that the White and black wire lives) to the rocker switch. Then i ran a new wire directly to the solenoid. Trouble is the battery light and oil light would not come on with ignition on. Engine would start, but the alternator was not charging. So i cant get around this poxy white and black wire!!
  16. Ok im really getting to my wits end here, ive been 2 days on this and im getting nowhere. I even just tried a work around but it hasnt helped at all. I unplugged the white with black tracer wire from the ignition switch, ran it to + on a rocker switch. Then ran a short black wire from the terminal marked A on the rocker switch back to the terminal on the ignition switch. There is an earth terminal on the rocker switch as well, so i ran that one to ground. With the new rocker switch in the on position i turned the ignition key. The lights came on on the instrument panel as usual and also the
  17. Also, the white wire with black tracer on the ignition switch, that supplies 12v to the solenoid, as soon as the ignition key is turned to the first position. It runs into a clump of white wires that head toward the centre of the dash and dissappears. The wire at the stop solenoid on my vehicle is pure white with no black tracer. 2 questions: 1/ Is there a break somewhere along this wire, in the form of connector, fuse, or connection at some other part that would explain this change in wire colour? 2/ If the answer to the above is yes there should be a break in the form of a connection,
  18. Ive been researching this problem searching through past posts. There is talk of a resistor somewhere behind the speedo cluster housed in a fuse holder, which is there to stop backfeeding voltage from the alternator, somehow to the fuel shut off solenoid circuit. I have loooked and looked and looked again, but cannot see anything like it on this 90 (1989 2.5 TD). Did it really exist from the factory? Or is it an add on that some owners have fitted?
  19. Everything was working fine until i removed the old solenoid due to a fuel leak. After that moment, the not turning off fault occurred, and then further investigations showed small voltage (2v) at the white wire on the solenoid with the engine running and key off. I then, changed the ignition barrel and switch because of a seperate fault, to do with glow plug position being worn on the old switch. The new ignition switch rectified the glow plug problem but the solenoid fault was just the same with the new switch, which makes me think this fault is not to do with the switch.
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