bleyseng

Hi Guys, just been looking on ebay at a new heater blower motor and fan. Mine has seized. I can see lots listed for 200tdi models up to 1994 but only a couple for 1995 on models like mine. the price difference is around £50. Is there any difference between the two? Merry Christmas.

Hi guys, sorry to hi-jack this thread. Im having the same problems as James lwt on my 300TDI. Western has posted a couple of pics of the plug in connectors next to the heater assembly. Somebody made a comment to the effect that the 2 pin connector is the supply to the motor. My two questions are: The two wire colours from the 2 pin connector to the blower motor, appear to be a light blue wire, and a black wire. Are these both + feeds to the motor or is one an earth? What is to stop me fitting a rocker switch on the dash and just having the heater either on or off? Thankyou

This gear difference is so obvious, now i have driven both in quick succesion. When i spoke to Dave Ashcroft, about the gearing issue, he said that a 1.22 would affect the gearing across the range, and not just 5th gear. Especially on a 300 TDI, as opposed to a TD5, from the point of view that the TDI has less poke.

WD-40 is good for freeing things up, but you want some grease to actually lubricate the friction parts. Spray grease will be fine for this.

I restore cars for a living. I re-chassied my 110 Hi-Cap this summer, with a Richards chassis. At the end of the day, your budget will dictate what you will end up with. My personal opinion is that patching something is a complete waste of time, and money. As is, adding repair sections here and there to a fundamentally rotten chassis. Unless you are sure that you can keep adding repair sections until its all totally sound allround whats the point? Whats the point to having done all of the reachable areas, but leaving the unreachable ones? You still own a rotten chassis but will have spent a lot of time, and a lot of money getting to that point. If a section of metal is perforated, then putting a patch over the offending area is pointless. The whole area needs to be cut away way beyond the surounding area until there is totally sound metal. Often this would mean cutting more and more away till theres not much left. anything less is just kidding yourself. Its difficult to comment on your situation without seeing it, but if you yourself suspect that the areas that are not currently perforated or holed, are not far behind the rest, then my advise is to forget it, and save for a galvy chassis. If you fit it up yourself you will add a lot of value to your vehicle and you will have the satisfaction of knowing that its going to last your lifetime. I do understand that for a lot of owners, welding and modifying their Landy's is a hobby and part of the fun. I would say that if you do go ahead and re-chassis, the chassis cost is just the begining. Every structural nut and bolt will probably need to be replaced. I know mine did. You will also discover other rusted parts that will have to be replaced along with bushes balljoints brake lines etc. Its all worth it but it does cost. I think that to strip a landy right down to rechassis, and deliberately not replace or service stuff as you go would be very difficult for an enthusiast. Good luck anyway.

Agreed to rusting really badly!! I cut a 6 inch square hole in one of the chassis sections to make a repair, and i shone a torch inside and sure enough all of the inside skin of metal had entirely rusted and delaminated. I re-chassid this summer, with a Richards chassis. They are the ones who gave me the impression that a Hi - Cap was made from a thicker gauge. I have just read some info on the Richards website. It states the standard thickness to be 2mm, but they manufacture in 2.5mm. This is where i was getting confused sorry. One thing i do know is that Richards dont laminate two pieces together, which is good.

The door latch has 2 latching positions. It sounds like your door is only latching in the first position. To make it latch in the second position and pull right in, you need to move the striking peg on the door pillar towards the outside of the vehicle. Over time, these pegs can move in a little which means the secondary latching position cannot be achieved, especially with mangled door seals in place. I restore VW Campers for a living, and often have to adjust the striking pegs on camper door pillars. Its exactly the same setup. Hope it helps.

A real Hi-Cap chassis is made of a thicker gauge of steel. i think its 3mm or 3.5mm instead of 2mm thick as per the standard 110.

Hi Guys. It has been 6 months since my Ashcroft gearbox had problems. I took the advice of guys here on the forum and spoke to a Mr Dave Ashcroft. I simply told him the problems i was having, we had a chat, and he accepted that there sounded like there was something not quite right. He asked me to put a thousand miles on the box and see how it went, and that if there were still issues, then they would take a look. I put a thousand miles on it, but the problem didnt go away. I called Dave Ashcroft again, and he was very good about it, and very easy to talk too. He said that if i took it out that they would collect it and sort it out and then return it to me. He also offered me £100 towards the labour cost. I was happy with this arrangement. Ashcrofts turned the gearbox and transfer box warranty work around in about 3 days, Dave even phoned me himself at first to tell me they couldnt find a fault with the gearbox. After another chat, he said he would split it again and check a selector fork. The gearbox is back in the defender now and all of the symptoms have gone. The problems i had were due to a too high ratio transfer box 1:222 i believe the same as a disco. and gears not meshing correctly due to a selector fork problem. I would just like to give very good positive feedback to a reputable company. Every company from time to time will have the odd problem or not quite right product. Its how the company deals with problems when they happen. Ashcroft Engineering has very much proved itself in this regard, as far as i am concerned. Thankyou Dave Ashcroft.

Yes it has oil in both transfer and gearbox. Ill call Dave.

1995 300TDI defender. Installed new gearbox and transfer box had some issues with difflock being on. sorted that (linkages sloppy) but now having used the vehicle properly for a week including towing my boat i have a few concerns. Here are the issues: 1/ Sometimes when 1st gear is selected and i lift the clutch pedal to pull away there is no drive and the horrible sound of gears grinding. I have to put the clutch back in, take it out of first then back in. It seems i need to be very deliberate about making sure 1st gear is truly selected. 2/ When changing down from any gear, when i release the clutch there is a 'chatter' that comes back up the gearstick, which makes me feel very uneasy. My old gearbox didnt do this. 3/ I tried to pull my boat out of the water on its trailer this morning on a steep slipway. I have done this many times before with my old gearbox. It literally felt unmovable and the clutch stank. I had to put it into low ratio. I never used to have to do this with my old one. (no brakes stuck on) At the point of sale the women from Ashcroft told me that there was a shortage of parts for original spec gearboxes and that this meant they could only offer me a box with a different ratio. She expressly told me that this ratio change would only affect 5th gear which would offer better performance on the motorway etc. Now i have my doubts. 4/ In general the gearbox sounds clanky. I can hear gears rattling slightly now and then. Its not filling me with confidence. I am open to the possibility that these are issues that can be ironed out with linkage adjustments, but i think in reality it could be more than that. Im loathed to take the box out again unless you guys tell me that this is not tweekable and it needs to go back to Ashcroft. I also need to be sure and have my facts straight before i start accusing Ashcroft of giving me a carp box. Your thoughts please, but i ask not for general opinion from the masses but rather wisdom from people who really know because they have real experience. No offence meant. Thanks.

Posted yesterday about not being able to take the difflock off on my new transfer box. Had a closer look at the difflock linkage. There is a lot of slack in the linkages and its not moving the tab (enough) at the bottom which turns difflock on and off. Ideally id like to replace the linkages. Do i need to track down part numbers and go through Landrover? Or is there a company who keeps them on the shelf? Thanks.

Thanks Maverick.

Thanks for the heads up. But how do i stop this vibration and drop in revs? Its not how it should be.

No its from a reputable U.K specialist. Ashcroft. Thanks for your reply.

When i turn the steering close to full lock at idle, the revs slow a little and there is a judder or vibration. I have checked the steering fluid is to the right level, and i have opened the bleed nipple and made sure its bled. How do i irradicate this problem? Thanks.

Hi there. Just re-chassied my 300tdi, 110. As part of the rebuild i replaced the transfer box and gearbox and new clutch kit. I have 2 issues. One possibly more serious than the other. Firstly the difflock light is now on after a short drive of say, a mile. I have looked up the procedure for adjusting it and have tried but it has left me with doubts as to wheather the difflock is actually on or not. it definetely goes in to low and high on both difflock and normal. I have read conflicting info on the forums as to how to ascertain if the difflock is engaged or not, so im confused about how to tell this. The second more worrying problem is that on several short test drives i seem to be losing drive whilst pulling away, and at the same time there is the sound of spinning gears hitting eachother but not meshing. I have fears about damaging the new boxes ive just bought and installed. 2 questions: 1/ How do i tell if difflock is engaged or not? 2/ Is there any adjustment that can be made to the difflock shiftrod linkage, that would correct this problem? 3/ Anything obvious i should check for. Thanks, in advance.

Richards told me, Hi-cap chassis were made of steel 25% thicker.

Ok, im swayed to the original spec rubber then. Next question: The loom that supplies the rear lights and trailer wiring, is it a loom in itself direct from the steering column controls? Or is it part of a bigger network of wires in a loom? The wiring at the back looks like it needs replacing and has been hacked by a previous owner. I'd like to replace this loom. Also, where to buy it? Thanks.

Hi all. My chassis is rotten. I called Richards today and ordered a new one. It will be delivered in 6 weeks. In the meantime im ordering all the bolts, bushes, gaskets etc i can think that i will need for the job. Im lucky because i own a classic car business so i have a workshop and all the right tools to do the job with. Im not a Landrover expert but i have experience with other rusty vehicles. Anyway, i am after a recommendation on a bush kit that will renew all the bushes on the vehicle. I have recently read negative comments about polybush sets, and i now do not know which one to buy. Any recomendations Also, any items i should purchase before i start? Thanks in advance.

Hi. Im looking at changing the chassis on my 110 Highcap. My highcap seems a lot higher than a standard 110 defender. But im assuming that this is to do with springs etc. Question: Is a 110 highcap chassis the same as any other 110 chassis? Thanks.

Yep, you were all right. Problem solved. I love this forum. Thanks peeps.

Hi there, my ramp has wheels free beams that span from front to back of the ramp. These beams can be left at any height and then the main ramp can be dropped down. Is it really possible to undo all fixings that hold the body to the chassis? Without stripping everything? Thats incredible if so. Allowing for rusted bolts here and there how long would this method take do you think ?

Invaluable. Thankyou.

I know what you mean. I was looking at how much flaky rust was on the rear axle A-Frame yesterday. Stuff like that would need to be replaced. Also, you would need so many new nuts and bolts of the right size on site. Where the hell do you start with that! How do you know what size bolts are needed and how many? Also they seemed to wire that thing up in no time!