nickwilliams
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Posts posted by nickwilliams
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Sorry, final line in the last post should not be part of the quote but I can't work out how to edit it with the new forum software.
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The instructions for checking the camshaft end float on page 75 of the 300 TDI overhaul manual say:
9. Pull camshaft fully forwards and check that end-float is between 0.1 and 1.2 mm.
10. If end-float exceeds 0.2 mm with new thrust plate fitted, camshaft must be replaced.
Am I correct in thinking that either the 1.2 in section 9 or the 0.2 in section 10 is a misprint? Which one is correct?
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Nick - you mention the difference between a voltage-controlled process and a current-controlled one - I don't suppose anyone could expand on that a bit could they? I've read up on the general differences between arc and MIG, but specifically what characteristics are changed by those two things? Hope that makes sense.
Cheers!
Dan
There's actually a lot of really quite complex physics going on in an arc weld, and if you really want to understand it then you'll need a decent text book: I recommend this. However, you don't really need to know a lot of it for most hobby welding - simple rules like making sure that the workpieces are as clean as you can make them and the pieces to be welded are straight with consistent thicknesses and gaps will get you a long way. The main thing which makes the difference is practice. Lots of it. Start with something simple and get that working reasonably well, and then change a parameter (thickness of material, filler, angle of torch, current, voltage, whatever) one bit at a time to see what difference it makes.
The point about current vs voltage machines at this level is that with TIG and MMA the main parameter which is controlled by the welding power supply is current, whereas with MIG the main control is on voltage and the current is varied mainly by changing the wire feed speed. This means that you can use a power supply which is designed for MMA for TIG and vice versa but you can't do MIG with it unless it also has some sophisticated voltage control. There are multi process machines (I have one of these, and it's an absolutely superb piece of kit) but they are expensive, and in practice the TIG capabilities are fairly limited in comparison to a dedicated TIG PSU such as this.
MIG is without question the most useful process for anyone doing motorvehicle repair/fabrication work, so buying a MMA/TIG machine isn't actually a very good investment, and unless you are prepared to pay upwards of £750 then any multi-process machine is going to be compromised in some way. A better investment for most people would be to spend as much as they can afford on a MIG only machine. Basic features like a removeable Euro-style torch and good solid wire feed mechanism will be more use than TIG or MMA capability.
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The air receiver makes a pretty effective dryer if you set it up properly.
I have a 120l vertical tank. Incoming air from the compressor comes in towards the bottom and the outlet is near the top. There is a Beko autodrain on the bottom of the tank. There is a coalescing filter on the outlet upstream of a filter/regulator unit which sets the outlet line pressure. In over 10 years of use, frequently fairly heavy, I have never had to drain the coalescing filter or the regulator bowl - all the water is condensed out by the expansion of the air into the receiver.
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Depending on your kit, it might be possible to create a sort of 'compressor suicide' situation, where the compressor powers an air ratchet used to remove the bung, which when totally removed will stop the compressor producing any useful output!!
Not a clever plan, there is a fair chance the bung will become a projectile if you do this. One of the reasons for having a drain on the tank is because you need to open it to make damn sure the tank is empty before you do any kind of work on it.
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Sounds as if the silver paint is not working, or you have not yet bridged all the gaps.
Check the resistance of each track. You'll need needle point probes to do it properly. Put the probes at the ends of the track and if you don't measure a resistance around 2 - 3 ohms then leave one probe at the end and put the other one in the middle of the track. Keep halving the track until you get a low resistance, and the break will be between that point and the one you tested previously. Repeat the process until you've identified all the breaks in all tracks. Mark the breaks with a felt pen on the glass so you know where to clean up and apply the conductive paint.
You only need a miniscule scratch to break the track, so you may well not be able to see the gap which is causing the problem.
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Hmm, I've never used the 'official' kits so I'm not sure, but I know that the tracks are varnished and so the varnish will need to be rubbed off before the silver paint can make a connection. Where are you measuring the resistance between?
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IME, it should be taking about 10 amps which equates to a resistance of around an ohm. Did you rub the varnish off the tracks on either side of the joint before you put the silver paint on?
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Thanks for the input guys.
Having wasted (invested) a couple of hours on the MIG forum, and without the £800 budget for the ESAB, i'm half wondering about just spending £60 on a Clarke 110a arc machine and just having a play. I've no immediate plans to anything particularly thin, and I like the simplicity of not having to worry about wire/gas/wind etc.
Maybe then upgrade to a better-than-entry level MIG when (if) I get proficient.
More procrastination from the work I SHOULD be doing required, I think.....!
While it's not true to say that little of what you learn to become a good MMA ("stick arc") welder will be of much use when it comes to learning MIG, the two techniques are very diffferent. MIG is a voltage controlled process, stick (and TIG) is current controlled so the hardware is different too.
Buying a cheap machine to have a play with is a good way to learn more about what you want to spend real money on. Plenty of cheap second hand stuff on e-bay.
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Just a thought but if you go over 150 amps you will need a higher amperage supply than 13.
MMA inverter welders wil do TIG for stainless and mild steel and cast iron but with the right sticks will arc weld those and aluminium too.
If you want to TIG weld aluminium it's a different process and requires DC current and consequentially a much more expensive machine so you might consider just how much aluminium you think you might work with for that one..
inverters are also a lot lighter than MIG machines my therna larc 175se weighs 7.5kg compared to about 35kg for the MIG
Youtube has some really useful videos on welding techniques.
edited cause I spelt aluminium wrong lol
Aluminium TIG requires AC, not DC.
The rest of your post is spot on though.
Some of the welding guys who do videos on YouTube are REALLY good.
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Head over here
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Rockwool slab insulation is fairly cheap and very effective.
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Just bluff it and say it worked yesterday. .. . Doubt it'd fail simply due to that.....
Mine did....
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No EGR on a late eighties vehicle. It would have orginally been a 2.5TD
Stereo?
A better picture of the connectors would make it a lot easier.
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Dave W:
What do you do about draining water out of the vessels?
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Did this ever get any further? I've bust three gas struts now because of the door being caught in a gust of wind, and it's time to think of something better.
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If it's wired properly, the heated rear window only operates when the battery is charging so you may not have given the battery the workout you think.
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It's the diameter which determines the servo assistance force, not the depth or volume.
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Much though I like the idea of the 10AS route, it looks like the module is about £130 and the fobs plus programming will be about another £45 whereas the RClick option is about £30.
Does anyone know of any cheaper sources for the 10AS module + fobs?
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Certainly worthy of consideration. Got any info/links to say what bits are required and how they go together?
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I currently have central locking on my 90 courtesy of an old Sparkrite controller which is activated by a radio control module from LPRS.
It's carp. The key fob transmitters only work if you are standing right next to the vehicle, the buttons press far too easily in your pocket, and the Sparkrite controller will change state if the battery voltage drops too low while cranking the engine.
It's now started playing up - there must be a loose connection somewhere because the locks keep cycling themselves whenever I go over a bump. If I'm going to have to take it to bits to troubleshoot and cure it, I may as well replace it with something better.
What I'd really like is something like the controller on my Peugeot estate car - works from about 20m away, has really well made a solid remote control key fobs and is completely reliable.
Can anyone recommend me an after market module which provides a good range of operation with solid, reliable key fobs?
If someone can point at a guide to canabalising an OEM solution to do this I'm happy with wiring and electronics, I just don't have time to reverse engineer a solution for myself.
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I have my work light wired into the interior light circuit. Standard wiring on a 90 hard top of that era was for the interior lights not to be door switch activated but instead to be wired to a three position switch with 'off' in the centre and the third position to be the dash/instrument lights. The switch is the right hand most of the three above the driver's right knee. Thus, you can select 'dash lights', 'off' or 'interior + work lights'.
On my set up the interior lighting circuit is wired via the contacts of a latching relay which is part of the central locking circuit. This means that if the lights are on, they go off when the doors are locked (or, more importantly, come on as soon as the doors are unlocked) and it's basically impossible to forget to turn off the exterior work light at night since the interior lights are also on.
This set up won't suit everyone but I find it works very well for me. The only time I've ever regretted it is when I needed to provide backwards facing white light for moving a steam traction engine at night. There are several aspects of that which were not strictly in accordance with the traffic rules so probaby best not to dwell on them here....
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Was yours leaking Nick? Mine ran very poorly with a leaking mechanical one, but absolutely fine if it simply wasnt pumping.
No, no leaks. The end had sheared off the pin which drives the diaphragm up and down.
Retrofitting Central Locking
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Have a look at this thread.
I bought one of the Rightclick controllers recommended by Aragorn, and I've been very impressed with it.
http://www.rclick.co.uk