nickwilliams
-
Posts
904 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by nickwilliams
-
-
From now on, all Defenders will be old!
-
I was looking around for a meter to live in the 90 last year and after quite a bit of investigation I went for a Fluke 325.
I know it's (a lot) more than your budget, but I think this is a near perfect meter for automotive applications. It has everything you are ever likely to need, including the ability to directly measure starting currents, and temperature via an external themocouple proble (which it comes with).
There are cheaper models of clamp meter, but if you think about buying one, check it will measure DC current: most of the cheaper models only do AC.
-
A few years ago when I was looking for the same thing, I got one of these. At the time, it was significantly cheaper than the other type, and I was short of cash. It looks like the prices have evened up in the meanwhile but having has the dial type for some time now, I actually prefer it to the other type.
-
Thanks for the post, Jason.
Just be aware that there are a lot of people out here who care what happens to you.
Nick.
-
With regard to the OP, I'd check the earth (chassis) connections both for the relay and for the wiper motor. That's the most likely source of unpredictable behaviour of this sort.
-
I've got one of these:
It has the biggest area of window of any helmet I've ever used, it's easily the most comfortable and the shade adjustment is superb.
-
Start with 5 to 1 thinner/paint and see what it looks like. It needs to be as runny as water.
Two pack isocyanate paint is the worst for causing long term breathing problems. The pictures posted by Arjan show the 1stLady using an absorbent cartridge type respirator. These work fine for some type of solvent but not for others. There are different types of absorbent cartridge and you need to make sure you get the right one to match your solvent. The cartridges are usually designed to last for one working shift but read the instructions which come with each cartridge and it will tell you how long you should expect them to last. If the cartridge is working properly then you should not be able to smell the solvent when you've got the mask on.
An air fed mask is a much better option but they are much more expensive and you need a clean air supply.
Sorry to labour this point but occupational asthma is not funny. HSE's website has some good stuff on it.
-
What Cynic-Al said, and:
1. You need lots of ventilation
2. No dust (or insects) anywhere nearby
3. The paint needs to be really thin when it goes in the gun
4. Most of the solvent should evaporate before the paint hits the workpiece (which is why it needs to be warm)
5. Keep the gun moving whenever the trigger is pulled
6. Let go of the trigger before you stop moving at each end of the run.
7. Wear the recommended respiratory protection
8. Don't smoke. Even if the solvent isn't flammable, the combustion products once the vapour has been through your cigarette will be more poisonous than the vapour.
9. Do not do it in any kind of confined space
10. Strain the paint as you mix it. Old stockings are ideal.
11. Clean the gun carefully after each use. Professional guns (deVilbiss etc) are designed to be easy to take to pieces and to avoid corners where paint can get trapped.
12. If you want a good finish then the spraying is only half the story, you'll also need to know what to do with the paint when it's dry.
Of the above, 7 is the most important. The only safe paint solvent is water (which you are unlikely to be using) - all others are at best unpleasant and at worst can kill you. Slowly.
-
To the OP: I don't think the seats in the back of the vehicle you are interested in are OEM fitted equipment and so may be difficult to insure. Arguably, sideways facing seats are not very safe even if you can insure them.
-
1
-
-
The Bulldog wheel clamps are more for show than effect, IME. If you forget to take it off before driving off then it will come off of its own accord. Don't ask me how I know.....
I'd recommend sign writing the side of the trailer to make it more distinctive and more difficult to shift on the black market.
-
I have a 300TDi. When first activated, the current per plug is about 12A, dropping to about 7A after 20 seconds or so.
Should not need anything as big as a winch solenoid - one of these should do it. -
I've got a little red tear drop mag-mount that I slap on the roof when I need to put the hammer down
Good luck with that on an alu. Defender roof!
-
If you generally wear your hacksaw blades out rather then snap them then by far the best blades to use are 'all hard' HSS blades made by LS Starrett. If you normally break the blade before you wear it out then bimetal blades from Sandvik are a better bet.
It's important to keep a range of tooth pitches in stock for use on different materials and thicknesses.
-
1
-
-
These are made up of lots of low voltage cells in series - the (faulty) one I have here in bits is 24 x 1.5v AA sized Li-ion batteries in series. Whilst the cells are unmarked they are most likely 1 or 2 A/H so thats something like 24 to 48 A/H in a pack 3 inches square. A similar capacity SLA battery would be a little bigger than a golf cart battery.
Your understanding of the capacity of a series connected stack of cells is incorrect. 10 x 1.5V 2Ah cells connected in series make a 15V 2Ah battery, not a 15V 20Ah battery.
Watt hours (current x voltage x time) is a better measurement for capacity when comparing differing battery technologies.
Here is the earlier thread.
-
My grandfather set light to a gas holder he was repairing once (yes, one of those massive things that go up and down and maintain pressure in the pipeline!!!). It was the pressure that kept the flame coming out. I dread to think what would happen if it set light to the entire contents! Probably say bye bye to part of south east london! They put it out by releasing the gas into the pipeline and lowering the gas holder sections down into the water that sealed each section (well, that's what he told me anyway!)
There were several of these large 'gasometers' on the site next to British Gas's London Research Station where I worked in the late 1980's. There was a map on the wall inside LRS which showed what the expected affected zones would be if a plane were to crash into the site. I seem to remember the staff referred to the different colours as the 'frizzle zone' and the 'fry zone'.
To the OP, if you really want to frighten yourself, look up 'BLEVE' although I agree with Simon_CSK that the more likely scenario is for the tank to develop pinhole leaks rather than a catastrophic rupture. In any event the tank shown in the pictures is knackered and should be decommissioned ASAP.
-
The X-Brake on my 90 is playing up and I don't really understand what it's doing. Basically, it randomly seems to change the clamp point, and hence the handbrake lever position, from one or two click to the (more normal) several and back again, pretty much each time you move the vehicle and put the brake on.
I've stripped it, cleaned the sliding bushes and adjusted the cable but the problem has not gone away. I note that the moving shoe in the caliper is loose but I'm at a loss to understand how that translates to the symptoms. The pads are not particularly badly worn.
Any ideas?
-
1
-
-
This would be much more useful tool
-
I'm planning to spend a week away with my son when he finishes his GCSEs in a few weeks time and we fancy the idea of a trip to Iceland. I'm looking for recommendations of things to do and see and contacts for motorised and non-motorised activities - all information and recommendations welcome.
Nick.
-
I'd agree with ejparrot - I found the large head mirrors very difficult to keep positioned, so much so that I took mine off and sold them on e-bay. They also don't increase the rearwards visibility by a huge amount over the conventional sized mirrors IMHO. Standard sized mirrors but with a more convex insert is the way to go.
-
There are ways of ensuing that the CE mark is genuine and that large batches are of the same quality as the original samples. After all, like it or not, the vast majority of low to medium value manufactured products come from the Far East and they are by no means all carp.
If I say any more I will be advertising, but this thread will give you some insight into my take on it.
-
I agree with Muddy.
You will find that neither the manoeuvrability of nor the visibility from a LandRover are anything like as good as a tractor.
-
Use a metal hammer, not a rubber one. The peak force applied will be a couple of orders of magnitude higher.
-
That will be fine if you need to start a TDI which has a flat battery because someone's left the lights on etc., but I very much doubt it will start a 2.25 diesel from cold.
-
The Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations require the mandatory lights for vehicles made after 1986 and used on UK roads to be 'approved'. In this context, 'approval' means they must be E-marked in accordance with the relevant UN ECE Regulation. The UN ECE Regulation requires an approval by one or more national approval authority - there is no option which allows a manufacturer to properly E-mark a lamp without having it independently tested.
Lamp holder/reflector/lens combinations are approved with a specific type of lamp (bulb) in them (read the relevant Regulation if you want more details). Bare lamps (bulbs) can also be approved (and E-marked) separately so they can be sold as spare parts.
So, for use in a vehicle younger than 1986, the replacement LED lamp (bulb) has to have an e-mark in its own right. The ones I linked to don't have an E-mark so they aren't legal for use in vehicles built after 1986.
It's possible that somewhere, somebody makes and sells an E-marked LED replacement for a 5/21W filament lamp, but I've never seen one.
For vehicles built before 1986, approval is not required but the lamps still have to meet the performance characteristics defined in the Regulations, which in effect means they have to pass the requirements of an MOT. So, I suppose you could argue that my post is misleading, but I'm trying to keep things fairly simple.
This only describes the situation for the UK.
-
1
-
Do we really need lift pumps??
in International Forum
Posted
I run a 300tdi. My lift pump failed on Friday evening last week and the vehicle certainly wasn't usable until I'd fixed it - it would run at idle but would not rev. and I had to use low range to crawl up a slight hill to get it home. Luckily I was less than 250m from home when the pump failed.