nickwilliams
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Posts posted by nickwilliams
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So what about these for example?:
http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/trucklite-phase-7-led-headlamps.html
(p.s. sorry if i'm being a dick, but the examples above skirt around the issue of the units being discussed in this thread)
So long as they are fitted so that they meet the requirements of an MOT, then I would say they are legal. But IANAL and YMMV.
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Complete lamp units (bulb + holder+ reflector + lens) can be e-marked and are legal for a manufacturer to fit. They may be legal for an end user to fit, depending on the age/type of vehicle and how they are fitted.
Replacement lamps (bulbs) which fit into an existing holder/reflector/lens unit are only legal if they are a like-for-like replacement for the lamp (bulb) for which they were originally designed.
These are legal to fit under pretty much all circumstances, assuming they are located and wired correctly.These (and others like them) may or may not be legal, depending on who fits them and how they are fitted.
Fitting these lamps in these holders is technically illegal, but the chances of you being caught if you do it are fairly minimal.
There is no way that these lamps can ever be legally fitted since the base on which they are mounted was only ever designed for halogen lamps. Your chances of getting caught if you fit them are reasonable since they will be obvious to any VOSA/plod/MOT tester worth their salt.
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They are legal for a vehicle manufacturer to fit. The man from VOSA was talking rubbish.
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No, ECE is correct.
Basically, because the car business is global, the rules are also global and the EU adopts them without modification. ECE is short for UN ECE which standards for the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe, which is, in effect, the body which publishes automotive design related Regulations on behalf of the EU.
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Jason, FYI, it's the 'E' mark that matters, not the number 14. The number simply tells you which country it was that issued the 'E' mark - 1 is Germany, 11 is the UK, 14 is Switzerland. I'm sure you can find a list of which number is which country with a bit of googling, although it doesn't really matter, they all use the same standard.
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would simply getting a more powerful welder work ?
Team Idris is right that just getting a bigger welder may be worse, but if you've got the dosh to invest in an inverter based MIG instead of a transformer based machine then it can compensate for a low voltage input to some extent.
It's also worth being aware that the contact resistance in multiple circuit breakers and plugs and sockets in series (and especially the resistance of the 1in cartridge fuse in a standard 13A plug top) may well be significant if you want to sqeeeze every last possible drop of juice out of your extension lead. One long 2.5mm sq extension lead with a 13 A plug at one end and a blue 16A plug/socket at the other end will be better than multiple '13A' leads plugged in a chain.
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I can't see how this:
Got back on the road home and noticed that volt meter was reading around 10 volts, rev counter was stuck at about 1000 rpm and if I ever was at high revs for a period, the battery charge light would come on accompanied by a burning smell.
is consistent with just a knackered belt, which is why I suggested the alternator may also be shagged.
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What engine?
Reckon you've shagged the alternator and then its drive belt.
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Why have you ruled out 200's ?
My Defender has a 300TDi engine in it so I don't have much use for leftover bits of 200 TDi
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But if you do that they you miss things like this which are eminently suitable but do not specifically say that there are a 300TDi.
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I don't think he'd be too bothered if it had no body at all, although I might need to stop him stealing the bodywork off his mother's lightweight and bolting that to it!
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My son (15) is looking to buy a vehicle so he has something to play about in on our fields. He can't afford a Defender but I have suggested to him that if he purchases a 300TDI disco then when the body finally rusts away the running gear might provide some useful spares for my 90.
So, the question is, what model year was the 300TDi introduced for the Disco, and how do we spot the right models on e-bay if the vendor has not specifically said what engine is in it?
Oh, and if anyone has one looking for a new home, please get in touch. He has £500 to spend.
Nick.
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Sorry if I'm teaching the OP to suck eggs, but others on the forum may be interested....
Devices which do this job already exist for cranes and excavators. They are a mandatory requirement for cranes over a certain size and IIRC, they are also required for rail adapted excavators.
Depending on exactly what they do and how they work (e.g. whether they actually intervene to prevent the machine turning over or just provide a warning to the driver, and whether they compute the machine's stability or measure it with some sort of analogue measurement device) they may require independent type approval under the Machinery Directive. Even if they don't require type approval, they still need to comply with some fairly complicated standards for reliability.
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OK, Adwest it is, but what type? There appear to be lightweight and heavyweight, quick ratio and (presumably) slow.
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The steering box on my RHD 1990 90 is leaking like the proverbial sieve. I've just been looking for a replacement and am bewildered by the array of options.
The vehicle has a 300 TDI conversion and power steering. It's used mainly for local and farm duties. I want the most reliable and hard wearing replacement option, cost is a secondary issue.
It's due for an MOT at the end of the first week of February so this will need to be sorted before then. Due to lack of time, I'd rather buy a new (or well done reconditioned) box than try to fix the one I've got.
What do I need to buy, and where best from?
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I would not have any concerns about using a grinder on the bolts if it's a diesel tank, particularly this time of year (assuming you are working outside or in an unheated workshop). Keep an extinguisher handy (which you should always do when grinding anyway) but the worst case is that you will set light to DERV soaked mud. It won't explode.
I wouldn't go near it with any kind of flame or grinder if it was a petrol tank.
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TD5 speedo is driven by pulses from the ECU under the seat.].
No it's not, it's driven direct by the transfer box sensor. The speed signal to the ECU is taken from the speedo, not the other way around.
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Bought quite a few bits from Rimmers ('tho never any exhaust parts) and have never had any problems.
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I used one extensively for my rebuild - worked extremely well for descaling axle cases and chassis etc. For best results, follow with a twist knot wire brush, although the needle scaler can get to lots of places you can't get a wire brush to.
IME, it's a much better tool than a grinder for de-rusting since it only removes the rust, whereas a grinder will take off useful metal as well.
However, you do need proper PPE - gloves, ear defenders and an air fed mask.
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Your valve has closed A+B ports when in the centre position, so if the hydraulic motor on the winch is in reasonable condition and connected directly to the ports, simply closing the valve should provide a pretty effective brake to stop the winch unspooling under the weight of the load. Yes, it will creep if the winch is left loaded for any significant period, but if you are not doing anything too safety critical that probably won't matter.
At least that's the theory....
If you need the winch to hold the load reliably for safety (or other) reasons, it all gets a lot more complicated....
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It's supposed to do that!
The dash tell-tale works by being permanently connected between the two indicator circuits. When one side is energised, the tell-tale circuit is completed via the other set of bulbs, but because the tell-tale is only .5W, there is insufficient current to light the external indicator lamps.
When the hazard lights are on, there is no voltage difference between the left and right indicator circuits so the tell-tale cannot illuminate. You should get the trailer tell-tale instead, and also the light on the switch itself. -
Yes, that's the kiddie.
The critical bit is the line which goes between the 'P' and the 'T' in the middle diagram (between the two lower mounting holes).
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Make sure it has the correct port configuration - you will need open which has an open centre position (i.e. routes the pressure (P) line back to tank (T)) unless you are going to do clever things with additional valves.
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Not really. Typical dimensions here:
http://www.hasmak.com.tr/parkervalf/Parker%20NFPA%20D05,%20CETOP%205%20Directional%20Control%20Valves.pdf
For comparison, CETOP 3 is probably a more normal size for winches etc:So, a typical CETOP 3 12V 3 position valve is 244 mm overall length where as a CETOP 5 one is 299
Wiring a trailer straight into the loom..
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Black --------------> Chassis
Green/White ------> RH indicator
Red/Black---------> LH tail light
Red/Orange ------> RH tail light
Red/Yellow -------> Rear fog lamp
Green/Red -------> LH indicator
Green/Purple-----> Brake (stop) lamps