nickwilliams
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Posts posted by nickwilliams
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In answer to the OP, CETOP 5 is a bit overkill, but it won't do any harm (other than weigh you down a bit!)
In answer to Anderzander, I'm not sure what you mean by a 'type R' solenoid but CETOP is a standard for the port dimensions and layout for hydraulic valves and so far as I am aware there is no standardisation between solenoids.
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I'm not sure if this qualifies for the 'cheap' tag, but I've been asked to draw it to people's attention:
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my 200tdi is 18 years old with interstellar miles & doesn't let gases escape from the breather into the engine bay.
FTFY :-)
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I'm with Mike. Here's a picture of the Gwen lewis bracket:
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The second half of my previous post is in fact complete boll**cks - the middle seat is narrower, but its mounting points are the same.
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The later vehicles have the outer seat mountings moved in by 25mm on each side so the middle seat mountings (and seat) are 50mm narrower to accommodate this
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If you want to be sure that this type of device is really safe for use, then you need to check that it has been CE marked under the Machinery Directive with the certification/declaration based on EN ISO 13849-1.
Last time I looked, even Lodar's units did not meet this standard.
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The time has come to replace the lighting units on my Ifor trailer. Has anyone got any recommendations for sources of LED lighting for trailers?
There's loads of stuff on e-bay, but you never know quite what you're going to end up with so accounts of experience: good, bad or indifferent would be very welcome.
Nick.
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I have the links in place but the light stays on!
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I've finally got round to installing a TD5 warning light pack, following Retroanaconda's wiring instructions here.
After a fair amount of messing around matching 200TDI wiring colours to the TD5 set (some easy, some not!) I've finally got it all working except the glow plug telltale and the ABS warning lamp. I think I know what's wrong with the glow plug light (I've got a feed direct from the plugs and not from the relay indicator pin) but I can't see why the ABS light won't go out.
I've run out of time to work on this until next weekend now, so a judiciously placed piece of black insulating tape is an adequate work around for the moment, but has anyone got any tips (or a proper explanation of how the ABS lamp is wired) to give me a head start when I next get a chance to play with it?
Thanks
Nick.
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I've used them for a few years now, very useful especially those with a geo fence option.
The TK104 is a good option for vehicles, particularly as it gives you an "engine kill" option ad is mostly waterproof. I've also been known to carry a TK102 when I'm off on my own on my mountain bike.
If it's of any interest I wrote an app to make controlling them a bit easier day to day, in particular making it easy to quickly define a geo fence area and control more than one device... (iPhone only at the moment)...
https://itunes.apple.com/tr/app/tkcontroller/id601959183?mt=8
It supports a number of different device types and more get added each time someone sends me a manual for yet another device type.
Just got one of the TK104s and been playing with it with your app, Dave. It's brilliant!
Nick.
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It's down the back of the instrument panel on the right had side, behind the three switches just above the driver's right knee (assuming it's a RHD vehicle).
It's a bugger to get at.
You can't just replace it with another relay to do what you want - the relay will be a constant drain on the battery due to the way the HRW circuit works.
You'd better taking feed direct from the HRW switch - easier to get to and your light will work when the engine is not running. You'll need to connect from the white with green tracer wire on the back of the switch to the white with black tracer that goes to the HRW.
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I can't help feeling that you are just making life difficult for yourself. The parts to do it properly are not that expensive:
Total cost well under £40 for the idler/tensioners parts, and another fiver or so for the belt.
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Sure other negative.
- Extra load on the alternator.
- You won't see distance as well as your night vision is impaired with the extra short range illumination.
I already have a 100A alternator and was thinking of fitting some spot lights, so I don't see either of those being an issue!
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Has anyone tried running Crystal units with both main and dip beam filaments running simultaneously? I'm considering this mod. but am unsure whether the Crystal headlamp units (which are polycarbonate, not glass) will stand the heat.
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The square head has no current carrying role so there is no reason not to use a square nut Loctited onto the end of a piece of studding.
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If you are going to buy a generator anyway, why not get a three phase one?
If you don't mind risking buggering the generator when you accidentally turn the welder up too far then buy one which is rated about the same as the welder max input. If you want everything to work like you are on the mains though, you need at least 15kVA, and 25kVA would be better.
Go for something big and old: there is no substitute for rotating mass when it comes to providing the grunt needed to start a large motor or react to the fast changing demands of a welder.
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You should also bear in mind that a vehicle which has had an engine upgrade like this one is 'modified' so far as an insurer is concerned and you will have less insurance options to choose from than you would if it was factory standard.
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Wot Peter said!
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Mine had 170k on it when I swapped it for a 300 TDi
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If you get it to more than 4000 rpm regularly or for any extended period then the fact that your gauge is off the end of the dial will be the least of your problems!
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For clagging lumps of mild together, it works, and its cheap, but there is better stuff out there if you want to pay for it.
For more rigorous applications, using the proper stuff makes the job quicker, tidier and stronger.
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£25m would go almost nowhere in setting up a new car manufacturing company. You'll be lucky if you only burn half that in wages in the first year.
Put a zero on the end and you might be getting somewhere close.
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A metre should be ample. I take it you'd like something like that which is shown in this thread? I checked earlier and I have the bits (including the wire) in stock so could make it up for you tomorrow and post on Monday if you like. PM me your address if this is what you want.
Cost to you will be a forum donation to the value of the parts.
Nick.
Cetop for a hydro winch
in International Forum
Posted
The pictures on that site don't look like CETOP valves to me, although they may be CETOP valves with a sub-plate to provide the interface to the incoming/outgoing hydraulic pipework.