Roverbo

Just glanced at the schematic again (pages 52-53 in the pdf), and it´s not true that the unit is self contained, as the pressure switches uses the relays to switch the pump on/off. But you can still feed the pump directly with 12 volt, to see if the pump runs OK - just don´t run it too long (overpressure and eventually overload). Sorry. /Bo.

Hi Richard, OK, first calm yourself - if the plug only feeds a few volts, its most likely that the failure is from the relays or fuses - not so expensive/"hard to get in good condition" as the pump. The pump/motor is a self contained unit with mechanical pressure switches (three of them!), working independly of the wabco ecu, so you should be able to feed it direct with 12 volts to get it going (just to check if it´s OK). Then go on check all the relays - they shouldn´t get very warm (this is a sign of worn out contact points). Schematics and repair manual here: http://www.muddyoval.com/articles/manuals/rrm_brakes.pdf - and you can find the complete electric schematics on the muddy oval site too. The Wabco (or Clayton-Dewandre) abs braking system is from page 70 and forward on the linked pdf-file. Regards Bo

It was "Anger Management" - quite funny film, and the RRC makes it even better! /Bo

Hi Santalars, the problem is a sliding contact on the wiper motor. It gives continous current to the motor, until the end position is reached. This is also why the intermittent feature doesn´t work: The relay gives short pulses, and the sliding contact should be able to fulfill the movement, so to say. On some wipermotors the contact is replaceble, dont know if this is (got the problem on my RRC as well ). Regards, Bo

Hi, have you seen that the camshaft is OK? If it hasn´t been changed by now, it will shure be worn down a bit. IMHO tappet noise can only be caused by Def. tappets (well, not now) Low oil pressure (to thin oil ? - should be 15/40, 20/50 or at least 10/40) - or blocked oilfilter (I had a Coopers that failed). Blocked oilways to rockers/tappets (can you see oil through the oilfiller hole? Worn pushrods (measured the rods?) Worn camshaft (they only last say 50-100.000 km). As the V8 tappets are hydraulic, they are self adjusting and very foregiving to wear. If you can hear the tappets more than 5 secs after start, something is wrong. Regards Bo

Ok, some pics from the engine compartment... Don´t know if they are any help, it´s a LHD Rangie, 1990, but engine/gearbox from a 1993, ie with the 100A alternator. And another New angle (but that radiatorhose is a...) From the front - sorry, couldn´t x-ray the radiator Best luck... Bo

OK, just to finish this thread: I have now changed the steering box. I bought a new one from MM, it was a brand new from Adwest (Original - nice). The job was quite simple (thanks Les), but took me 4 + 5 hours (saturday/sunday), mostly due to oilcooler tubing and stuff getting in the way (on a LHD V8 you will have to take the stick that supports the alternator out. Also the airfilter and Air Mass Sensor. Some of the cords to the Ignition coil etc. I took the PS reservoir out too (the tubing is a [rusty outrigger] in the...). And to get the new box up right, I got the assistance from my son and a piece of rope up through the top (my office-muscles... ). But was is worth the £240 ? Well - now it feels OK to drive with one hand on the steering wheel. And potholes just isn´t a subject anymore. A great improvement, in my humble opinion... Thanks for your answers, Bo.

Hi, yes, tracking should be OK (I´ve made my own measuring tool with a piece of copper tubing and at soldered nut/bolt to get it right). At the rear, the big rubber mounts are changed, the bushings looked allrigtht, but they are on the "to do" list. Since I wrote first, a serious leak has developed, so it´s nice and red under the car (atf fluid). And the steering in general is like watching a Cary Grant movie, having to compensate left/right all the time... So I´ll better just change the steering house and steering UJs. In a way its fair enough - these parts have done 295.000 km. Bo

Hi Tuko, You cant feel the heat with your hands, but the electric current is so high, that you should be able to measure a drop in the battery voltage, say from 13,5 volts to 13,2-ish. I can even hear a change in the engine idle speed, caused by the load on the alternator (30-50 Amp.). Regards Bo

Hi Landmann, paintman and santalars, Thanks for your answers. Paintman and Santalars: I replaced the droparm some year ago (worst job i´ve done on this car...), Im quite sure that i´ve put it right on the masterspline. This was the only position where it could slide on. Anyway, will double-check this. In fact it has been tightened up a few times - not that I could move the nut more than say two degrees, but just because I dont have a 33 mm. box spanner (using a 2" pipe wrench). Landmann: All TRE´s are replaced within this year. Swivel preload adjusted. I´ve just changed CV-joints (both sides), the bearings felt OK. One CV joint was quite worn (slack, grooves...rust on the outside - probably the swivel house has been without oil for some time (before I bought the car). With my hand on the input shaft of the steeringbox and an assistant at the steering wheel, I can feel the slack in the steering column - quite a lot. So these UJs will be replaced. But I can also feel the slack in the steeringbox - with the wheels lifted, the input shaft can turn 5-10 degrees before the wheels moves. Some - but not all - the slack can be reomoved if I tighten the allen key, but then it gets so tight that it gets "real heavy", and the selfcentering is gone. But what worries me most is the experience I had a few times, when the steering felt nearly locked, after turning right . /Bo

Hi, the stepper motor works on a warm engine as well as cold. That is, if you turn the A/C on, it lower the speed of the engine, the ecu reacts by retracting the piston on the stepper to let more air pass to rev the engine (so it doesnt stall, like your engine...). When you put the gear in Drive, it again lets more air in, so the engine doesnt stall ...etc. As I remember, there are 128 steps in/out on the plunger (piston), so it´s a sensitive device, my guess is that the tarish stuff from the plenum chamber gets sticky when the engine is hot. On my 3.9 engine the problems came around say 10 to 30 minutes after take-off...again, my guess is the sludge is most sticky at this temperature. Cleaning the plunger and the mounting area with solvent and a cotton stick has done the job for my RRC (exept when i tried to move the piston... ). This is a thing you can do in ten minutes, and at no cost, so why don´t give it a try? If it works, you may consider a new stepper motor, as they have limited lifetime, some say appr. 50.000 miles. Regards Bo

My first answer too, that bl... steppermotor - but oh, be carefull when you clean it, it´s very fragile, and easily falls apart if you try to move the small piston with your fingers (why do I know ? ). Regards, Bo (RRC now running on 3rd steppermotor)

Hi, my 1990 RRC is still not as stable on the highway, as I would like it to be.... Have changed all bushings on the radius arms front/back, panhard rod bushings, new dampers/steering damper, tried higher/lower pressure in tires, tracking done etc. etc. Some improvements, yes indeed, but still the car feels like wandering about and very sensitive to holes in the asphalt. That´s one thing. Another thing is too much freeplay at the steering wheel, with "dead zone" around neutral. And -some days- a sudden "tight point" when turning right (kind of scary experience ). Today I tried to adjust the steering box. It was possible to tighten some (but not all) slack away, but only if I tightened so much, that the steering wheel felt heavy, and the selfcentering was gone. And even then, there was slack between the input u/j and the drop arm. So - its a new steering box, don´t you think? From the partslist, I need a NTC 1581 LHD. Anyone who can recommend a dealer with a nice price - paddocks doesnt seem to supply the LHD box, and I would also avoid to return the old one (guess the postcharge would be ridicoulous from Denmark). Famous Four has an "all new" lightweight type, FF005050, any experience with this type? Regards Bo

Wouldn´t the boxes in the doors be passive cross-over filters (that separates signals to tweeters and woofers...), rather than amplifiers? Regards Bo

Hi Geoff, this is a drawing of the high/low pressure system. The thick, black lines shows the high pressure parts (Valve block, pump, accumolator, mastercylinder, lines, calibers). I could understand if the pump would run often if a brake line was corroded/leaking - IF i pushed the pedal. But its like the high pressure system looses pressure even though i´m just idling without using the brakes. No pressure is reliefed from the pump/accu parts. Lack of Nitrogen ("biased" pressure) in the accu would make the pump run more in case if deep brakings, I understand this (less energy would be accumolated). This has always been a small mystery to me (well, many parts of my rangie is...), even when the pump only had the pleasant 5-7 minute intervals. Anyone who can explain ? Cheers Bo

Hmmm...Wouldn´t I see some brake fluid dripping somewhere ? And the level in the reservoir drop? /Bo

Hi, I´ve got a 1990 RRC with the Wabco ABS system. For about a year ago, the abs pump started running at shorter and shorter intervals, down to every 1 minute, and I changed the Nitrogen-charged Accumolator to a new one (bought from Britishparts). Everything then worked fine, I could accept the pump now running every 5-7 minutes. But now everythings seems to be "as before". Yesterday I tracked a interval at 1 min. 40 sec. (without applying the brake pedal at all). Could it be the "new" accu allready has leaked the pressure out, or did I buy a piece with 10 years on the shelf, "almost done" at the day I got it? The pump and relays etc. seems to be OK, from start the pump runs 40 secs to charge up, as stated in the RAVE manual. BR Bo Helsted

The tyre people could accidently (caused by the use of pneumatic tools) have pushed the abs sensors out a tiny bit of their bushings, resulting in weak signals to your abs cpu. The cpu sees it as one wheel is not turning, and try to brake the other side. You could try to remove your wheels and push back your sensors (firmly - the wires are easily damaged). This is a "warranty claim" in my opinion, but if the garage havent got the skills, better check it yourself, so no more damage is done... BR Bo

Oh, glad you said this Bowie69, as I have a 1990 with Boge, no air AND tubular x-member - thought in a second that either my frame was changed or the air suspension was removed...you just never know when you buy a twenty year old vehicle . Cheers