Roverbo

I soldered my negative battery cable at two points directly to the chassis on my old RRC (Takes some heat and rosin). Really cured the "will not start in damp conditions unless you attach a starter cable to the block" ... There is, however, a reason for not soldering the cables on automotive cables: They get stiff where the solder is absorbed, giving a risk of breaking after prolonged vibrations. Thats the explanition i´m told, anyway... But hey, then you know what to look for .. Regards Bo

Hi corndog, if you had lambdas fitted (and connected) they did fill a function! Your fuel economy (well... ) will be affected if you remove/disconnect them. They are meant to give feedback to the ECU, so the engine don´t runs too rich or lean. If disconnected, I believe the ECU will run a "open-loop" programme, problably too rich (better safe than sorry - programme). Could give more fuel smell from the exhaust too... Regards, Bo

Sorry, can´t help you...but have you read the official manual? I have put it here My link. It does not cover the ETC, but the components are identical, except for the programming of the ECU. The only fault described that causes the pump to run constantly is "non-return valve in pump defect". As I am on my second pump now, and looking for a third, I tend to think that there are different stages of "non-functioning" valves. Could be, that the harsh pressure-build up with the outlet blocked could trigger the valve and pressure switch, but a slower increasing pressure could not. Logically seen, what has changed in your system: The pump. Where to seek the error: The pump. Who did the repair, and what was done? Regards Bo

Hi ajh, yes, i think that your controlblock could be defect; every component in that system could be defect, the problem is that they are so hard to test. I once bought a complete set of (used) ABS components for my 1990 RRC, and a friend bought the controlblock from me to fix his system (he had problems similar to yours). What really wonders me about these systems, is where the pressured fluid goes, when it "disappears" (pressure drop)?. I changed the accumulator two wears ago, because the pump was running every, say, two minutes. The new accu changed that to every five minutes; but now i´m back to once a minute - I find it hard to believe that an original Wabco-part fails that fast. So now my suspicion lies on the non-return valve in the pump. Well, not a great help to you, maybe.... try to block the other port on the accumulator first, to rule that out.

Could it be the connection around the "in-line resistor" (Item 15 on the schematic) ? This resistor gives the ECU information about that the ignition is in fact working, guess is it will turn the fuel relay off, if this impulse is missing (for safety reasons). If you haven´t got the resistor (black little plastic thing on my coil), it is specified to be 6,8 kOhms, ½ watt. Regards Bo

I need pushing closed by hand each side, then a hard tamper, push/release the lock in the middle, then banging hard twice on the side that didn´t latch anyway... Gives people at the public parkinglot something to talk about.

Hi, maybe off topic, as I drive a RRC, but I did the same job one week ago, and it´s a great change. The ride is more firm, yet a lot more pleasant, ´cause potholes and bumps dont hit back to the steering wheel as before. The car feels more safe on the highway - and my wife says that she feels safe as a driver now. I had standard monroe dampers before - just two years old, but they felt like "really done". My car is a 1990 model, so no Anti Roll Bars. With the Bilsteins, I dont feel the need of them so hard anymore (but why didn´t they put them on from the start - the high-speed stability is something that sucks on these cars - yet it took land rover from 1972 to 1991 to do something about it )). And, as mentioned, the bottom nyloc nuts are hard to get off, i used a large pipe wrench to hold on the tubing. One of the rubber mounts on top had grown together with the "pin", had to cut i up with the angle grinder and knock it off in small bits (two hour job..bloody he...). Other side came straight off (a nice person remebered to put a smear of copper grease on, two years ago). The bilsteins come with two-piece rubber mounts and no steel tubing, so this wont happen again. Another thing, the holes in the washers are different top/bottom, so remember to get them right (or do the mounting twice...). And - by the way - enjoy the german slogan on the box "Sportswagen zum einbauen" - Sportscar to be built in Regards Bo

OK, i think I have cured the ABS now. It was the wheel bearings that were loose at the rear (yes, quite odd - both of them). The big washer between the two big nuts (52 mm) was missing their tap that goes into the groove, so they could apperently turn loose over time. Thanks for your adwise... /Bo

I always learn something on this forum, often wandered if my wheels looked like they were falling off or something , funny thing though, I´ve only experienced this on the swedish highways, never here in Denmark.

regards Bo

OK, amazing - and you´ll trust a Land Rover? Just checked the c-tek homepage and they´re all 220-240V, so they won´t do the job. But Waeco, who have specialized in caravan and boat electronics, have some interesting chargers. My link. Regards Bo

Hi tweetyduck, unless you are going abroad to the US, wouldn´t a normal 230-240 V charger do the job? Can´t remember any european countries who supplies 110 V? Netherlands, Germany, France, Italy, Belgium, and all the nordic countries are all 230V, 50 Hz. But what you ask for could be a switch-mode type (without a normal ironcore transformer), like a C-TEK charger. Regards Bo

Hello, got a compressor similar to yours, chinese build, but with a danish name on the label. My user manual recomends to change the oil after 5 hours use, as it is "only for the run-in of the compressor". Did in fact turn from light yellow to brown quite fast. I used ISO VG68 compressor oil. Maybe an idea, if you care about it. Regards Bo

Thanks, Nick, I will keep this in mind. Unlikely to be a problem though, as I tend to keep the old parts in my backgarden for years... But - serious - aren´t the adaptors soldered to the rad? - or are they som kind of screwfit? /Bo

Now, let´s please keep these two subjects apart: The 6.8 k Ohm resistor and the Coil resistor. They are not related to each other in any way. p76rangie, you are probably right about the coil/resistor stuff, and this is maybe a thing to investigate, but the Lucas RD.. is a low-wattage, high resistant component and its only purpose is "to tell the ECU if the engine is running or not". The value of 6.8 kOhm is problably quite random, I guess the only point here is to secure the ignition circuit in case of a short in the loom, as the input on the ECU side is so high impedanced. Headdamage, as I read your description, the resistor is connected to the ECU loom in one end, and to the positive on the coil in the other end. This will not give any signal to the ECU at all, as the positive is continiously "on". The ECU thinks that your engine is stalling, it shuts off everything. Try to connect to the "amplifier side" of the coil instead, this is where to get a pulsating signal. This is what the original schematic shows: Regards, Bo

I changed the brake pads on the rear end recently, so could be that i´ve pushed a sensor during this operation...had to use a large plumbers wrench to get the pistons back, so heavy forces (and some swearing) was used... I will check this and adjust the play in the bearings, when the shocks are changed.

Hi, OK I´ve just bought new tyres, new radiator, drivebelts and shocks for my RRC 1990, and prepared myself for some days of nice work on the vehicle - I´ve even tried to prepare myself for exchange the bushings in the rear a-frame, and then this new problem pops up . When I drive over a pothole, the relays under the drivers seat (It´s a LHD) starts to click erraticaly in 5 to 10 secs, and if I try to brake during this, it`s like a car on ice: The ABS works continously. As the driveline comes from a 1993 RRC, I have a complete loom from the donor car, including relays. So I changed the relays with the "new ones" (there´s three of them, one green and two black). No change. I have two ideas myself of what to examine: 1) a loose connection, fuse, relay socket or 2) a worn wheelbearing causing the distance from a sensor to the abs ring to change. Any ideas or hints will be much appriciated, I feel like this could really take some time to solve, and I would rather spend the time on the other jobs I planned... Regards Bo

I will ask around, but as this is my daily car, i would like a quick job. Not so comfortable to bring the old rad in a public bus either... I´ve actually changed the rad once before to a second hand "as good as new" (well...it was not, leaked from the first day) - so this time it must be right. Someone in this forum sure must have tried the part from paddocks?

Erm, it seems like they haven´t got the right one (V8 3.9 autobox)?

Hi All, my radiator is leaking water, so I´m about to buy a new one. I´ve read so many negative things about br...parts, so can you please tell me, is the radiator from paddox OK? The cheapest by far, including freight to Denmark... Oh, forgot to say, is´s a RRC 1990 Vogue, so fitted with the triple circuit rad, for engine oil, trans. oil and water. Thanks, Bo

Hi, no, not all 3.9´s had the lambdas fitted. Here in Denmark, lambdas were fitted from 1990- on. The 14 CUX ECU (I guess this is the system you´ve got?) has a "tune resistor" which choose the right fuel map for different markets. This is copy/paste from this link britishv8.org : "Visual inspection of wire color codes will allow you to quickly differentiate between resistors. White 3900 Ohms USA and European vehicles with catalytic converters Green 470 Ohms UK and European vehicles without catalytic converters Yellow 910 Ohms Saudi vehicles (without catalytic converters.) Red 180 Ohms Australia and "the rest of the world." Note: all four types of Rover Tune Resistors were rated for 0.5 Watts. When fitted, the Tune Resistor was connected to the ECU through terminal position 5, and it was also connected to terminal position 27 through a splice. If you wish to check the resistor, first disconnect power to the system, second disconnect the EFI Cable Harness Assembly from the ECU, and finally simply measure resistance (using an Ohmmeter) from pin 5 to pin 27 on the main ECU connector. (Resistance isn't polarity dependent.)" Sure, i know, the MS has a lot of advantages over the old Lucas system, but on the other hand, this worked (and is still working) allright for thousands of V8´s, so why dont keep the original?. It´s like when young people buys an old house, and drives over the garden with an excavator before the first springtime - give the old plants and trees a chance Lucas regards Bo - probably wrong...

OK - obvious, but I just haven´t thought of that...is the pattern symmetrical ?

Yes, part of me wants to buy 4 new BFG´s (de facto THE tire here in Denmark), but the "glue-in-the-pocket" part of me hates to drive 2 fine michelins to the recycling container. I know that they are at least 8-10 years old, and we plan to take a trip to Italy this summer (4-5000 km drive in all), so problably end up with new BFGs...I just find them a little too flashy with their white outline letters...not so "original" RR style... Thanks for your input...

Hi, My RRC now runs Michelin Synchrones, OK for my daily on-road driving, but theres not too much pattern left, the rear tires are the best (5-6 mm). I have also 2 used XPC´s in the right size 235/70R16 with 90% pattern, but I cant find 2 more (Im told they are out of production). Can I use Synchrones (the best of them) in front, and XPC´s rear? Or: Anyone knows a dealer who has XPC´s left? (and able to ship to Denmark), or should I just bite the bullet and buy, say, 4 new BFG ATs ? Thanks Bo

You can find most the information here: My link They don´t specify whether it is 12 or 18 mm - both sizes are found on the titania types. I can measure on my 1990 RR if you need the info. /Bo OK, just found out, it´s 12 mm...