Rustyrangie

Hi again all, yet another visit to the oracle of all things Rangie. I'm slowly reaching the end of my chassis/sills/floor welding and my thoughts have turned to what else I could/should do before getting back on the road. I'll be renewing all the rigid brake pipes as they all have a bit of rust so while the brake systems down it seems sensible to replace the brake discs & Pads plus the shockers (one's leaking anyway) but with what? Prices seem to vary tremendously from dirt cheap to "how effin much?" so a bit of guidance as to what is sensible would be most welcome. The Rangie will be my daily driver, occasional caravan tow truck with hopefully a bit of green laning and mild trialling thrown in. I intend to keep it at least 2 more years if that's any help. Many thanks in advance. Bob

Hi Fridge, thanks for the comprehensive reply. I've got all the bits and bobs you describe plus loads of nylon hose to suit (thanks to a former employer!) I might as well fit an extended breather while I've got the boot floor out, makes the job so much easier. Bob

Hi, me again with another silly question. While sorting out my boot floor, fuel lines etc I found a length of plastic pipe, with a U bend at one end, ty-wrapped to the rear axle but not connected to anything. I suspect this is/was the breather for the rear axle, however there doesn't seem anywhere for it to connect. There is a boss on top of the axle, about 6 inches from the diff., with a bolt screwed into it, is this possibly the breather connection? How complicated is the breather? I could easily remove the bolt, drill it and solder in a bit of brake pipe then fit the "breather pipe" over this but I was wondering if there was a non-return valve in the pipe. Is a breather really necessary anyway? Mine looks to have been absent for some time but I tend to think that LR wouldn't have spent the money on it if it wasn't needed. As always, any help will be very welcome. Bob 3.9V8 efi slowly recovering from tin worm.

Yeah, I got one too. Long queue of ageing petrolheads like me with nothing else in their trolleys. Compressor came with some useful goodies, even though I had most already. Seems well made if a bit noisy but for 60 quid I can live with that. Instruction booklet good and clear English. Only downside is the air fittings are different to those on my old compressor so I'll need to get some new ones for the rest of my kit. Got the nail gun too, don't know why really but it may come in useful some time and at that price you can't go wrong. Thanks to Callum for the heads up. Bob

My Local Aldi is on a main road quite near an "executive" style housing estate. As for the Merc, it cost us £500 last summer, more room inside than the Rangie, and yes, we do have locking wheelnuts plus 3 rather stroppy dogs inside too! I'll probably leave the equally stroppy wife in it too....far too posh to be seen inside Aldi. Hope she doesn't read this forum! Bob

Looks like Aldi car parks are going to be full of Landy owners come Thursday. Lets hope the anti-4X4 brigade aren't around. Mind you, I'll be sneaking in with the wife's Merc 230TL grossedoggiewagen so I might just get away with it. Bob

Thanks Callum, my 30+ years old "bitsa" compressor has just blown a hole in its receiver, internal rust I presume. I'm halfway through a Rangie restoration and coming to the bit where I need a compressor more and more. I'll get one of these as a stopgap until I can raise the funds for a better one. For £60 it's worth a gamble. Bob

Great tip! It's so bleedin obvious I need my @rse kicking for not thinking of it myself! I do it with drill chuck keys too, so I've no excuse....must be a "senior moment" Bob

I've had a B&D "professional" one for years, still going strong after 2 minis, a BMW 2002, and various jobs for friends/neighbours/family. Recently I bought 2 cheapies from Screwfix for about £12 each as I was fed up with constantly changing between grinding wheel, cutting wheel and wire brush. Best thing I ever did. Now I have the right tool with the right disc to hand immediately, saves loads of time and the aggravation of looking for the !@%**^$ spanner every 2 minutes or so! Other new toys....full face vizor, again from Screwfix much better than goggles, doesn't steam up and I can wear a dust mask too. Very thin "universal" cutting discs, 5 for around a fiver from Wickes, a joy to use..much more precise than the normal 3mm ones plus quieter and much less dust. Only downside is they wear out quite quickly. Bob 3.9V8 RRC (still in bits...but not quite as rusty now)

Thanks guys, the ally strip seems a good idea. A lot easier than trying to make up a steel section and less likely rot out the top of the cross member like the old one did. Off to see my friendly local carpet fitter. Bob

Quick Google got me this: http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_F...pc=037103221360 Is this the one....looks good for £60! Bob

Hi all, Me again with another of my silly questions. I've just replaced the rear crossmember, not a nice job to do, but it's in. Now the silly bit. I threw away the old crossmember weeks ago so I don't have anything to refer to. I know there's a lip welded to the back edge but I can't remember it's shape. I seem to recall it had a return edge making a sort of "U" shape lying on its side with the open bit of the U facing the interior. Presumably this locates the boot floor cover. Can anyone confirm this please and also give me the dimensions (width height etc.) so I can make up a replacement. Note to self...Never throw anything away until you've got and fitted its replacement! Cheers Bob

Forgot to mention that you can dismantle the switches, (they just "click" together), and clean the contacts. Just rub off any burnt areas with a bit of glasspaper or a fine file until you're down to shiny metal then re-assemble and test again. A simple bulb and battery is OK for continuity tests if you don't have a meter. I find it's better to do this on a piece of old newspaper on the kitchen table (if you're allowed!), then if any small bits drop out you can find them more easily than in a grubby garage/drive.

I managed to solder the connector on to my son's Mini rear screen. Localised heat is the problem here. Too much for too long and you risk a stress crack/shattering. I did it on a very sunny summer's day so the glass was almost too hot to touch to begin with. I cleaned both parts of the damaged connector thoroughly and used a liquid flux,Baker's I think, not relying on the flux in the cored solder. The solder flowed very quickly and made a good joint which lasted until the Mini was sold. Mind you I was using a professional temp controlled soldering iron with a large bit. You might struggle with the usual DIY soldering iron. Bob

You could try the Vintage motorbike guys. Lots of early bikes used them. I remember an old colleague of mine making them up at work, (in his lunch hour of course....Ha!)

Oops, just had another look. The rear wheelarch extension also supports the bottom of the rear wing via a little L shaped bent bracket which will be rusted away if it's anything like mine. Again, dead easy to make another, you could even use thicker or better material if you wish.

Hi Jim, can't find it as a separate part in my parts CD. Could be a repair panel for the flat angled section just forward of the rear wheel arch inside the door, but I'm only guessing. Hopefully someone with more knlwledge and experience will be along shortly. The rear wheel arch extension is, as you say, mainly to mount the rear mudflaps and protect the underside a bit. Mine was full of holes but 1/2 an hour and a bit of 18g sheet soon made another. That's another beauty of the Rangie. Most, if not all, of the inner body bits are simply folded flat sheet. hence quite easy to replicate given enough time and ingenuity. I talk in the singular as due to space limitations I can't get to both sides of my Rangie at once. I expect the other side to be just as bad. Bob

Hi, try this: http://dca.dominohosting.biz/dca/mpsdb01.n...SSIS%20SECTIONS Bob

Thanks guys, it looks like it's a tank cradle. Couldn't see one mentioned in the parts CD so wondered if it was an extra. I won't be doing any serious off-roading, so it's OK to stay. Once again this forum has turned up trumps. Thanks again, Bob

Hi again all, another silly question. My fuel tank has a 2mm plate which covers the whole bottom surface and is held via the tank fixing bolts. It has a LR sticker on the underside. Is it a guard or just the fixing method please? Told you it was a silly question. Bob

I'm not sure if there's a "standard" procedure for the inner wings. Obviously a new inner wing will get rid of all the rust but it looked a horrendous job. Mine were perfect at the outer wing joint but had rotted badly round each of the holes where the plastic wing liner is/was/should have been fixed (with those silly plastic rivet things) I was able to cut out the rust and butt weld in patches quite easily. A good thing about Rangies is the thickness of the steel (18g / 1.2mm) which I find is much easier to weld than the usual 20 or 22g found on other cars. A quick run over the welds with the angle grinder and they're almost invisible. My footwell was only slightly rusted at the side panel joint and again a patch was sufficient to get rid of all the rust. Incidentally my RRC is a '89 and the floor is welded in, not screwed or pop-riveted. Good luck Bob

Interesting thread, I'm pleased I started it. Liked the moped story Ed, the sort of thing I'd have done when I were a lad. Wouldn't work on my V8 anyway as it's on LPG. Hence the blower, if it ever managed any boost, would simply blow the anti-blow-back flap on the plenum open. That would be interesting. A cloud of LPG/air mix lurking around under the bonnet looking for a spark or a hot manifold then....Boom! It'd sort the rust out I suppose. Bob RRC 3.9V8 efi, still in bits... but not quite as many

Yeah, that was my thought too. I did a bit on gas flow ages ago for OU/ Transco so I know it's not as simple as it sounds. However a quick rule of thumb calculation says a 4 litre V8 flows 2 litres per rev. Therefore at 4000 rpm it'll be flowing around 8000 litres/minute, i.e. approx 280 cubic feet / minute (cfm) so to get any boost at all you need a supercharger to exceed this figure. That's one hell of an electric motor! The pictures in the ads show a box around 4 inches cubed, wonder what's in it? Not a lot, probably. I liked the bit in one of the ads that said "even the car manufacturers don't know about this" yeah right. Bob

Hi, Not sure if this is the right forum but I reckon most of the engineering types will lurk here. Came across this while idly browsing (Coronation Street's on!) Do a google on "electric supercharger" Appears to be a an electric "blower" downstream of the air filter. New to me, has anyone seen one? got one? tried one? I don't want one myself, just interested that's all. Bob