Rustyrangie

Hi, While stripping out the nearside inner wing top on my RRC prior to welding I came across a pair of wires tucked behind the loom on the wing top. They sprout out of the loom about half way between the coil and the washer bottle. One is White and the other Brown with a black tracer. The Brown/Black one has an insulated female spade connector. The White one appears to have had a spade connector which has corroded away. It also appears to have been shorted to chassis as it shows signs of overheating/melted insulation. I've trawled through the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual but can't find these wires. White seems to indicate a +12v connection which would explain the overheating if it shorted to chassis. Anyone have any ideas what these wires were/are for? The RRC ran fine and all electrics worked before so I'm a bit stumped. Maybe I'll just chop them and insulate the ends and see how it goes Cheers, Bob RRC V8 3.9 efi

Thanks Deano, interesting site, I've added it to my favourites. Looks as if the coolant temperature sensor is the root of all evil, efi wise. Still doesn't really answer the question, although it refers to the various part nos. for the 14CUX so the inference is that they are interchangeable. Cheers, Bob

When you say it runs slightly cold have you checked that the vaporiser is getting nice and hot? When my thermostat stuck open the vaporiser was never more than lukewarm even after a long run. New thermostat helped my mpg quite a bit and made the heater work too! This was on a 3.9 but I expect the basics are the same. Bob

Hi, a quick query for the Efi wizards. My RRC (89 3.9 V8 efi, non-cat) has an ECU, LR part No. 8702 which my parts manual CD calls a 14CUX I've just bought a spare ECU (dirt cheap) off eBay which is LR part no PRC 9611, also marked 14CUX! My question is, are these interchangeable? if not why not? and what's the difference between them software, mapping or what? I run mainly on LPG so the Petrol ECU is hardly used except for starting. Any help will be gratefully received. Happy Easter to all. Bob 3.9V8...(slowly coming back together after a "quick check over for the MoT" 5 months ago!)

Sorry, finances will only stretch to a 200/300dti. Dogs are 1 large collie dog, 2 small(ish)collie bitches and a border terrier, small but noisy! I've seen double decker cages in the back of a Renault Kangoo which were fine for collies but I didn't measure the van up. I'd hate to have to buy a van if I could get a Disco to do the same job. Rather attracted to the idea of a Rangie classic and a Disco on the drive, really annoy the antis! When I've finished restoring the Rangie I'll get an old Landie to restore so that'll be 3 4X4s, even better! Bob

Hi all, intruder from the Rangie forum here with a quick question. We're considering a Disco as a caravan tow car/dog carrier for dog agility shows/weekday runabout. We need to know the interior dimensions behind the rear seats, width, height & depth please. so we can work out if a double-decker dog cage can be accomodated/fabricated. (2 cages side by side with another 2 on top). Hopefully they can otherwise SWMBO will be after a Citroen van!! (God forbid) Bob

Hi, Just went in to local branch and complained mildly, manager looked a bit shame-faced and gave me a replacement FOC...Result! The storeman later told me that they'd had a lot of problems with the tap/knob type cylinders leaking. Apparently they can leak round the packing when the cylinder is on. He sorted me out a square spindle tap type cylinder and threw in a spindle key too! Don't have room for a bigger cylinder in my garage...maybe I should move house! Bob

Looks good, what size compressor (cfm) are you using with it? Bob

Hi Muddy, I'm using BOC Argoshield universal, bottle size X (half size? it's about 3 feet high and 6 ins. dia. if that helps) Fill is £40.30, annual rental £51.76. If you get one check the tap for leaks, mine's just leaked away with the tap shut tight! Going to BOC tomorrow for a replacement/argument/fight. Bob.

Thanks western, the bits I made up are called "retainer" or "panel, mudflap mounting" in your pics. They don't show the holes I mentioned either so who knows what they were for. Maybe your tyre alignment idea is correct, hadn't thought of that. Bob

As promised, Found them in the RS catalogue. they're called a "multicut" The photo didn't copy, look on the RScomponents site for one if you're interested All products in this category HSS PG29 European conduit drill RS Stock no. 325-6616 Quantity Price 1+ £46.90 S Y In stock Priced as: Each Dearer than I thought but they do work very well and leave a burr free finish on one side with just a bit of burring on the other. Bob

I've used these in the past for making up one off bits of radio test equipment. The large ones struggle a bit on 16gauge steel but in general they do a great job. They get a bit pricey if you need a few though. Have you tried a stepped conecut? I'll try and find out some deatails and post them on here. Bob

Hi again all, I've just made up a couple of rear mudflap brackets for my Rangie Classic using the remains of the rusted out originals as patterns. The originals have an elongated hole approx 2" by 1/2" (50mm X 12mm) at one side. I can see no purpose for this hole so I haven't copied it into my replacements. Just out of interest does anyone know what these holes are for, or is it another LR mystery? Bob

Don't have a powerful enough torch so I used a hole saw to destroy the rubber then hacksawed the outer almost through and knocked it out with a cold chisel....5 minute job and very little swearing...unusual for me! Bob

Just notice my contents gauge is reading almost empty after only about 2 hours (in total) use. Had the bottle about 6 weeks. Do you think they'll accept a complaint or say I left it turned on, which I definitely didn't? Bob

Agree with last point. It annoys me too that they'll continue replacing bits until they find the fault and charge you for the lot! This happened to a mate of mine a while back (not on a LR product)....we (3 telecomms engineers) eventually found a corroded connection on his ECU plug, 2 minutes and a squirt of electrolube and the job was a good'un. The garage, a main dealer, had swapped out most of the EFi kit including the ECU! and gave him a nice big bill...he was not a happy bunny to say the least. Grudginly they agreed to take the ECU back but wouldn't budge on the rest as they claimed they were at the end of their service life anyway! Bob

Sounds horribly familiar. I've just replaced my rear crossmember and will be replacing the boot floor soon. A Disco floor fits width wise but is about 120mm too short. The fuel pump access hole isn't exactly in the right place but it's near enough. I've fitted an extra crossmember at the rear which will support the end of the Disco floor and enable a strip of 18g sheet to be welded in to fill the gap. If I have the time I may even try and put a few swage lines in it to aid rigidity. You may be able to salvage such a strip from the old floor. Shame I didn't think of this before I threw my old floor in the local skip! The cross members in the Rangie are approx central to the wheelarch and about 18" (oops...450mm) behind it. They sit on rubber topped supports welded to the chassis...obvious when you get the floor out. I made up new crossmembers from rectangular section steel but pattern ones are available. A good tip is to get a spot weld drill bit, around £6 from motor factors or maybe cheaper on eblag. There are a LOT of spot welds in a Rangie floor. While you've got the floor out it's a good idea to look at rear brake pipes, fuel pipes etc. they are much easier to replace from above than crawling around underneath. Oh and check for rust at the chassis ends, around the bump stops and at the ends of the big round crossmember, especially where the fuel pipes make a lovely little rust trap...ask me how I know. Good luck! Bob

Thanks for this Dolly, best laugh all day! Bob

Hi Neil, Hope you're a good welder! I'm now into month 4 of a "quick tidy up for the MoT" on my 89 classic! You'll enjoy this forum, I've had loads of great advice from the guys on here. Bob (note to the pedantic PC brigade, "guys" in this context simply means "People" and in no way refers to gender/sex/orientation/species etc. etc. I got pulled for this on another non-LR forum, hence the disclaimer.)

I found this very helpful too. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php Good luck, it gets easier/better the more you practice. Bob

Thanks Deano, hadn't heard of MM4X4. Looks a good firm, I've bookmarked them for a thorough search and spend tomorrow when SWMBO is at work he he! Who needs to eat when there's a poorly Rangie in the garage?

Thanks Guys, Gas shocks it'll be then. Are the Monroe ones from Paddocks any good or should I go a bit more spendy? Bob

Thanks Dan, I guessed there'd be one on the front axle but I haven't got that far yet. Slowly working my way round from RH sill & inner wing via rear crossmember, boot floor etc. Thanks for the info on the gearbox one(s) too....hadn't thought to look there. I'm afraid the pipe I have to hand is plain old industrial quality black.....I'm a bit old for funky colours anyway...unless they do a nice wrinkly beige of course! Bus pass arrives in November! Bob

Have you seen how much these things fetch on eblag?

On closer inspection, the "bolt" was indeed a banjo with the neck broken off and the resulting hole filled with gunge. Interestingly when I unscrewed it there was a definite "PFFFT" so there must have been some pressure still in the axle even after 3 months off the road! I suppose it shows the seals are OK. Bob