davek0974

Yep, the landy wave, it's well known.

I think you can get a glimpse through the wading plug hole, a borescope would give a decent view but by eye it would be very hard. The cover could be modified but would need to be taken off to do so.

Half shaft, wheel bearing, stub axle,....

I am appalled that there was no paint on the arches etc, no wonder they rot in no time, that rear quarter panel to roof join is a bitch to seal! I would have thought that a body in that condition would be scrapped, I am amazed that you are fighting through the rot that seems to be everywhere, this is clearly not a job that just anyone could tackle, can't wait for more progress pictures.

Black is too much fuel or not enough air. Fit a boost gauge and check for 1bar max boost. Check all air hoses, leaks, delaminating etc Are you sure pump is not tweaked? Did the smoke just appear or id it follow a specific job or change? Injectors could be shot and opening too early. Bigger intercooler should not make any difference although I have heard some bad sides to fitting one.

What engine, what colour smoke, when does it smoke-all the time, when accelerating, coasting????

Start by getting the headlining out and you will then be able to see where the water is getting in. It's not too difficult to remove.

Yes there is. On the box where the drop arm bolts, there is a hole cast into the ram body and two fingers cast onto the drop arm opposite the arm itself. I think the hole is 8mm and the idea is to turn the wheel until you can slip an 8mm rod into the hole and between the two fingers, this is the centre stop point for the pas box. With the box locked, you can then get the steering wheel straight by unbolting and setting it right or undo the UJs at the box and slipping the joint off then refitting it with the wheel straight. Dont fret about getting it spot on as it's all splined and the chances of getting it dead on are nil. Now you have the wheel right and the box right you can set the drag link to get the thing to go in a straight line If the wheel needs to go left then shorten the drag link, about half a turn will pull the wheel from 1 o clock to 12 o clock. Simples

Ok, job done, took one hour start to finish this time, fitted another box after a chat with NPS, very helpful people. The feel is definately balanced now, it appears the other one was over powering the left side as this one feels like the right-side before and also like the old box did so it should be about right i guess. The pump is groaning a bit now but as the fluid is foamy, im guessing there is air in there still, i have had many strange noises come out of our hydraulic machines at work until the air settles after a service had been done. Hopefully that is the end of the saga, if so, then i am very pleased with NPS as they have been very helpful both over the phone and in getting the replacement box dropped off the next day. The credit for the original one has now been processed by paddocks too so thats ok as well. Dave

Don't worry, it won't disable the brakes, just the abs stops working when there is a fault. Google "discovery abs codes" I think that will get you started on fault finding, all you need is a paperclip, pen and paper! It's easy.

Thanks I'll try that, the leather food is doing a good job though.

Is there meant to be a certain amount of play in the system?? I checked this morning and there is zero backlash - you touch the steering wheel and the wheels move immediately. Just wondering if they have adjusted it up too much? Dave

I followed the leaflet that came with it. loosen nipple,m wheel to right lock, tighten nipple when oil comes out - it went everywhere! then work wheel from lock to lock while checking the oil level. i'll re-bleed it, its an easy check to make. Thanks Dave

Could it still be an airlock on the right-hand side of the ram? Not sure how PAS works, just a thought. Dave

She hasn't been off road since i did the damper, but I'll check anyway. I think it was a Monroe unit.

It's only 7 months old? Should be ok.

I fitted a recon steering box today, nice easy job. The only odd thing I can see is that it is easier to turn left than right. Its not stiff as such but easier to turn left. There is no backlash and it all seems to be working ok. The track and drag link ends are also new. Any thoughts ?

Thanks all, I was given a pot of 'leather food' and I've given the rears a first treatment, looks stunning. I'll give them another go and try the fronts next. It seems to a mix of waxes and soaps, smells really good too.

Once you get going its not too bad, getting the lock out of the door was the worst bit. You have to remove the lever that connects the door handle to the lock as well, I tried without doing this and it wouldn't shift. Take a picture of where all the rods go, there's kits of them and remove the child lock knob too

Hi all, My disco has the grey leather seats, can anyone recommend some leather treatment that will help revive them a little? Thanks Dave

New spring fitted and it's working as it should for the first time since I bought her Thanks for the pics, it was the fiddliest job from hell but worth he effort. Dave

Great stuff, thanks

Hi all, is there a picture of the rear door lock for a D1 showing where the little spring goes? I have the spring but there are no little bits left to give me an idea of where it goes?? Many thanks Dave

Right, I've given it all I've got ! Four hours messing about at 1c and I can't feel my hands or feet, I have reinstalled the headlining as the sunroofs were nice and sealed now, the n/s rear quarter is all trimmed back up and dickie seat replaced. I masked up and ran another wide bead of sealant along under the gutter, the top trim lip which locates over the gutter edge was filled with silicone and the trim replaced, the joint clips were then filled with sikaflex and replaced. As far as I can see, there is no way that any water can now get from the gutter channel to the underside. If it leaks from the gutter now, it will probably leak forever. At the rear corner where the straight run of gutter joins the corner run, there is a little taped joint, I'm guessing that this is the "zinc tape" as mentioned in the Landrover technical bulletin for leaks? It was ok at the top and face but underneath there was a little gap where tape had lifted, this looked like another possible leak so that was well covered too. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the rest of trim back in and that'll be the end of the water at the back at least:)

Ok, thanks. This ones a reasonably mint condition one so I'm trying desperately to keep all my mastic messing around hidden. A hole will do the same job I think. The main culprit seems to be the trim strip, that's today's job. Dave