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dirtyninety

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Posts posted by dirtyninety

  1. Yup, all correct, the distance is from the mounting surface of the bell housing to the torque converter bosses, and I have 'felt' the TC onto the oil pump too, although Ashcroft seemed to think it was impossible unless the box was stood on it's end!

    You 'set' the depth using a spacer on the crankshaft, so my question was really as to how this was taken care of with the kit above. Surely you can use the same spacer, off the v8?

    Broadly though, if you push the converter fully home, measure the depth from bell housing face, and then measure the adapter plate to surface of flex plate when bolted in place, there should be a small gap, IIRC it was around 5mm on my stock RV8 set up.

    I'm surprised that so much had to be cut out the bellhousing, to me you only need a small swing with a decent ratchet spanner, and you could maybe get away with just cutting out between the ribs? Making a cover panel then would be much easier. I totally agree, and I shall be looking at a much neater smarter way of doing this. I don't want cr*p in my bell :ph34r:

  2. Another question, how does it allow for setting the depth of the converter into the box, as just about every HP22 box code is different in this respect?

    See near bottom of page here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes/zf4hp22.html

    If you don't heed the depth, you end up smashing the oil pump in the box, and then wonder why you don't have any drive.

    Just to point out, the pictures above are from GazFab, the chap who has made the adapter plate.

    I have also been thinking about the TC depths. How do you set the depth on a RV8?

    In the past ive always "felt" the TC onto the oil pump drive and never had a problem. When you offer up the autobox and engine, the TC must come forward slightly on the splines to bolt up to the flex plate(?)

  3. Not terrible actually.

    I assume the little boss bolts onto the crank/starter find and allows the V8 flex plate adapter etc to bolt on?

    Is it being too cheeky to enquire as to the thickness of the adapter ring and the boss?

    One assumes you'd bolt the torque converter to the flex plate through the starter hole?

    Hopefully these pictures shall help, You have to cut a chunk of belhousing out to be able to get in and do the torque converter bolts. Hopefully i'll make a better solution than this.

    11178666_775262939256329_525925915_n.jpg

    11198819_775263079256315_333286857_n.jpg

    11194854_775263142589642_961847394_o.jpg

  4. So if you had room to have a remote transfer box, what manual gearbox would be best to use if you wanted a good amount of power.

    I DO have room for a remote transfer, just want my truck on the road ASAP so I can plan the next step.

    Id look at running a BMW 530d gearbox with a cut and welded merc/bmw bellhousing or maybe find a big yanky slush box that can handle big power. TH400 etc etc

  5. Is anyone on the forum running an OM606 with a mechanical OM603 pump that hasn't been modified? What's the performance like?

    I was going to upgrade the pump to 6mm elements but the UK supplier now says he can only supply 7.5mm at a whopping £895 so I'm having second thoughts. This is way more power than I need for my application and I don't want to blow the gearbox apart or start buying modified clutches at £900.

    Also what has to be done to the turbo if you are running it as mechanical?

    Thanks,

    I will be using 6mm elements out the EDC pump fitted to a mechanical om606 pump. Apparently with this setup with standard turbo youre good for 250bhp... i think.

    I'm going to be running the GazFab conversion plate to zf4hp22 autobox, so i dont really want any more than 250bhp for the time being.

    My conversion kit should arrive this week, engine can be fitted any time soon, mechanical pump and locking tool has arrived. Just need to have the elements swapped and can start to get it all bolted up.

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