Big.Mike
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Posts posted by Big.Mike
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If only I knew what Sean and Zim, were going on about .... sounds interesting though
I'd second that...! Explanations would be greatly appreciated, before i start talking shop...
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Warco make some.
Believe it or not, the bridgeport clone I've been using to make the new CNC bits for my bridgeport clone, doesn't use normal coolant. He uses an air blast from a pond aerator...
A jet of compressed air or a pump for an aerator is a really good way to cool work, in an enclosed mill. It would worry me in an open frame.
At work I use MA Ford tools without coolant for stainless which we need to keep a high surface finish (it can really make a massive difference)...
They are expensive, it does do away with the need for coolant.
Their speeds and feeds are ridiculously fast!
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He quoted the "does not say it is not fit for that purpose" clause at me.
Actually, I'd get in touch with trading standards. They are there for the retailer to.
This doesn't sound like it's bring taken in the right context by the guy, but i can't tell you why not... Sorry, this is getting of topic...
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When it turned up, it looks like he's had a go at making it fit using a hammer! Most of the bits went in the scrap bin.
Si
Si,
You could state that it must be installed by a trained professional?
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Careful, he might have Rodney with him...
It's the carbide tips that'll do for you, cut though anything will carbide. Blooming difficult to get them to stick to another bit of metal though, hence your problem.
Confronting a salesman mid patter in front of a crowd sound like a good idea, but this guy has probably had it happen before and it can get nasty. I saw a fight break out over a dodgy cow once in a similar situation... Not good. (Norwich cattle market, 1988, one of the most interesting things in my childhood, nearly caused a riot)
Cheers,
Mike
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My biggest problem mpg wise is the roof rack
Yeah, I read that a roof rack really eats the fuel!
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Quick drawing. Dimensions approximate but close.
I'm doing the opposite! I'm making a polycarbonate gear knob! (All of your kind suggestions came after I'd gone!
)I'm going to have to lacquer the knob (ooh missus) as PC will react with the oil in hands.
I'll pop an LED in it for kicks, I'm not going to wire it in permanently though, I'll use a couple of coin cells!
I'm going to put an aluminum core in from the top, I've got a CNC mill at work so I'll stick it in there to mark it with the H...
I really like the stainless steel pins for the vent flaps, perhaps next week!
Cheers,
Mike
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I'm doing a work mandated turning course tonight, what can I make that will be really useful? Do you have a drawing?
Why is it I can never think of anything interesting to make when I have too!
Cheers,
Mike
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Unfortunately unless you drill lots of holes in it you will not be able to get it dipped as it is closed box section, you then risk filling it up with mud. As they were made around 20 years ago if you consider the small amount of surface rust you should be fine it's very heavy gauge metal.
I'd agree with this. I would, however get it grit blasted after you've added any structural work. Grit blasting really shows all of the little imperfections that you might want to fix!
You could then, potentially, get it powder coated (if you can find someone that has a big enough oven) which would last forever!
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Still the same.
How much fluid is in your reserve?
The wire it quite tight to the cap, it runs through a little metal loop on the master cylinder housing, I'm going to try giving this some slack.
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job done.
Er, no. I'm thinking this is more than just a bad connection. I'm looking at you earth lead.
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Just to be different, I'd vote BFG, either AT or MT, as they last forever.
Noooooo!!!!! I'd had consensus, something I've never had on a forum ever before!
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Right, an update.
There is plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir.
The connections are on, if a little loose and dirty.
I've noticed that if I hit the brake, the light comes on then flickers.
Pumping the brake with the engine on and the bonnet open nothing happens.
I think it might be as simple as the sound proofing inside the bonnet catching the electrical connection on top of the cap and causing a break in continuity.
I've turned the contacts on the cap 180 degrees hopefully job done.
Cheers,
Mike
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You'll also need a narrower wheel though, possibly, maybe.
I'll get some nice new wheels to go with the nice new tyres.
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You could try a pond pump, but I suspect the back pressure from the nozzle would stymie it. Oh, you need a non return valve in there too.
The barrel looks okay.
Taking Si's idea one step further could you line the reservoir in the base of the machine with a heavy duty polythene bag fill it with water and then concrete and rebar the hole.
It's architectural, in this case weight is your friend!
Cheers,
Mike
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The reservoir looks a little small for milling. You might want to buy a pump and make your own reservoir. I've used a 80 litre drum before. You need to be careful about the thing running dry, nothing worse than running out of coolant on the last pass!
Cheers,
Mike
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I use Halfords DOT 4 brake fluid, they don't actually make it. never given me any problem.
no pad wear sensors on any Defender AFAIK.
Yeah, I'll check it and get some tomorrow.
I was being sarcastic
If a Defender had wear sensors on the brakes it wouldn't be a Defender! -
On my 110, that light is activated by the PDWA switch attached to the bulkhead on the drivers side in the engine bay. You'll spot it as the brake pipes run ito it. It measures if there is a mismatch in breaking effort front to rear. If there is, it signifies a leak somewhere - i had a rear cylinder weeping ever so slightly and the light came on under heavy breaking. Changed the cylinder and bled and all back to normal.
Hmmm, I'm wondering if my fiddling with the vacuum pipe that goes to the EGR valve might have affected this switch.
I used this as a guide: http://www.landyworld.co.uk/EGRvalve.htm.
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Oh, does anyone have a preference for what type of DOT4 brake fluid?
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The light's also affected by the handbrake switch. You could check that + associated wiring.
I have a separate lamp for the handbrake. Would this one come on too?
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check your brake fluid level, your vehicle should have a float switch as part of the master cylinder fluid tank cap, one wire is earth, other is a 12v feed to light the red ! on the dash.
Cool, so it's not got some clever brake pad sensor?
I'll have a look tomorrow. (I must buy a decent torch).
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Copper grease is going onto everything that I might want to undo ever again...
I would... I've currently got Daisy soaking in a bath of copper grease just to be sure.
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Hi All,
The little red dash brake warning light has been flickering since I had fun with the EGR valve.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78945
The brakes feel okay. My question is, what actually makes the sensor light, light.
I have read that the vacuum tube from the EGR valve can cause brake problems if not properly sealed off, would this cause the problem?
Cheers,
Mike
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For that money I'd hope for 4 matching tyres, a rear view mirror and a pin in the tow hitch.
...you can actually polish a turd...
Just depends how much sh*t you want to get on your hands.
I'd second these comments and add that you are buying it from a dealer, you have some protection.
Turning - What can I make that is useful for a Defender
in Tools and Fabrication
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I'm insulted, my knob will work far better than the original, and it will glow! lol