Ed Poore

Hopefully it fits unlike my adapter...

The A340 box in the LS400 is amazingly compact. If I remember correctly this had the front of the bell housing where a Defender / 300Tdi R380 sat in relation to the LT230. As you can see there's plenty of space for an adapter but the rear output housing (you can see a bolt loose on it) is also removable because that's where the Jeep transfer box bolts up (I think, @Bowie69 can confirm as he's seen those boxes, I haven't).

Cue Stephen trying to find some bits of the Bismark to reinforce his portals...

The Soarer rather than LS400 had a rear sump on a 1UZ and there are kits available to weld up your own, or dry sump it. It's actually quite a shallow sump and at least on my mockup might even get away without changing the setup on a fairly standard 110.

I think in your situation whatever is the shortest is going to win. If you speak to people shoving 1UZ/3UZs into race trucks for a living then an R380 needs upgrading. However fundamentally it's not massively more powerful nor torquey than other engines that have been shoved infront of them, in stock form of the 1UZ you are within the 380Nm rating for the gearbox. Also @FridgeFreezer and I, amongst others, are of the opinion the smoothness of the V8s torque delivery is a lot nicer to the gearbox than a lumpy Tdi banging away. Ultimately any gearbox will break if you abuse it enough. So I'd first go and see which of the various more "modern" boxes you have (LT77 and R380) is the shortest overall otherwise you may be into issues with props and so on. When I put it all together a 1UZ with 1.5" adapter plate coupled to a Defender R380 and LT230 is pretty much the same length as the 300Tdi setup, it just fills the space a LOT more being a big box of 90° V8 goodness. I'm guessing a 200Tdi isn't massively different in terms of length to a 300Tdi so you shouldn't be that far off. The question is whether you'll have to shunt the thing forwards or backwards to clear the shock towers etc.

More cylinders = more noise = more smiles and that's what matters* * simplification but who cares

Very true but then the Lexus can handle more power and therefore torque thrown at it. It's all a question of where you want it developed (which I think is more a byproduct of the crank / bore design than anything in NA vehicles). As you say it's all swings and roundabouts but there's no denying the 1UZ can handle more power thrown at it and revs higher which in Stephens situation is the crucial bit.

You've seen his Ibex haven't you?

What @Bowie69 said. The reason I was focusing on the 4.6 was that (to my understanding) it's the closest match in terms of "performance" to the 1UZ out of the box. It (the 4.6) produces a bit more torque on average (peak is a bit higher again) and a little less horsepower. The older variants were significantly down by comparison. For me personally the deciding factor was cost (to get the engine running it has literally cost me £250, half a dozen relays and some time) but also that the 1UZ in stock tune is very under-stressed. Hypothetically lets say you wanted a bit more horsepower (say around 300hp) then you can swap out the stock ECU for an quality aftermarket one and tune it appropriately - to get a Rover V8 to do similar you're throwing quite a bit of money at it. Bearing in mind at this point financially you're likely at the point that a basic running 4.6 transplant cost you. If you wanted even more power (why is questionable but then we're all mad on here) then you start bolting on turbos or superchargers and you're leaving the Rover V8 in the dust (or probably converting it to dust as it explodes under the stress) whilst the stock 1UZ components take it like a champ and you still have the option for quality aftermarket internal upgrades. That being said I don't really have anything against the Rover V8 and there's a lot to be said of keeping the parts bin all mostly Land Rover based. I blame @jad and his Lexus Koya 109 build for opening my eyes to the possibility of fitting a 1UZ into the Sandringham (he did it into a Series 3 which is a slightly smaller engine bay than the Stage 1) and when I started looking into it it was a far cheaper route for (in my opinion) a stronger engine. Since then life has gone mental and I have just about enough time keeping vehicles on the road let alone playing with projects.

Looks like it might be age related https://www.lextreme.com/forums/threads/uz-engines-interference-or-non-interference.12402/ Having said that the local garage to me who I trust said he'd had a customer who bought an LS400 at something like 50k milesish. At 100k or something they thought they'd better check the cambelt since it was unknown on its history. Tomos said it certainly looked original (can't remember if he said there was a date code on it) but it was in identical condition to the new one they had in the box, no wear on it at all. That car is still with the same guy and at over half a million miles. All he's done is service it sensibly.

I don't know about Stephens engine but mine isn't (I'm fairly sure) a thick rod engine. They I think were up to 1994, I think the only tell tale is that the fuel rails are square rather than rounded. Kelvin over at the Car Tune Company in NZ has a video on it I think. The post 1994 ones can still handle silly power on stock internals but from my background gathering of knowledge the pre 1994 ones will basically handle 1000hpish quite happily. I think there's plenty of aftermarket conrods now that it's sort of moot. I'm not sure whether there were any other differences in the fundamental block.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266218109082?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=6RZCIy08REq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=JvqamW5TTPy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'm assuming that you can buy new ones or someone may have one lying around. If I remember I'll note down the part number next time I'm in the workshop. There was a good parts diagram website (I think Toyota epc data or something like that) but when I go there I can't get the diagrams I thought I could. It's worth knowing the LS400 is also known by as the UCF20 frame. There's certainly one on sales on ebay. I would think it's fairly important as it tells the ECU how much air is going into the engine.

Just to get the juices flowing

Especially in a TVR!

In my instance I was able to pick up a complete running LS400 for £550. Gave the shell to a mate's boyfriend and he gave me £200 for it so for £350 I got the engine, autobox and all the necessary bits to run it. Compared to finding a donor P38 and then selling various bits to recoup money and then having to fork out for a Megasquirt kit or something similar to run it it's a positive bargain. They've gone up a bit in price since then but you can still find bargains once in a while and I'd say they're still cheaper than going a P38 donor route.

Okay let's assume everyone wants a V8. So the classic choice is Rover V8 or something else. The 1UZ-FE (which was usually fitted to the Lexus LS400 in this country) basically produces Tdi levels of torque from just above idle to 7000rpm and 265ish horsepower in stock form. So basically towards the upper end of the Rover V8 territory, however with a few minor upgrades (turbos, superchargers etc which are available bolt on) then you can get them up to say 500hp and beyond comfortably on stock internals. Beyond that there are internal upgrades to take them to quadruple digit hp figures. The biggest advantage over the EFI Rover V8s is that you can use the stock ECU to run the engine out of the donor vehicle with a few simple wire mods (basically rewiring some relays to the ignition switch). Thereby saving you the cost of a Megasquirt or something else to run the Rover V8. They also have a hell of a reputation for reliability and are a nice lightweight engine As to what they'll fit in, people have put them in carp loads of vehicles including a variety of Land Rovers. There is a turbo charged version of it in the 3UZ which was a LS430 (more modern), I don't know where it stands with using the stock ecu. The 1UZ is also semi fly by wire in that the throttle pot is actually mounted on top of the engine and you use a cable to drive it so with minor mods any normal cable driven pedal will work meaning you don't need to faff fitting other accelerator pedals. The more you look into it it's a well thought out and very well designed engine. You can even use a standard Defender V8 rad with the standard Lexus hoses because they just fit together. It is a tight fit, will it fit in a lightweight - well Stephen will make it fit. This is the first lightweight I've heard of one going in. Another reason it's attractive for Sid is the 7k rpm factory redline which gives him a much more usable gearing ratio, it can be higher using an after market ecu.

Hey I didn't let him drive a V8 Land Rover and get him hooked on having one...

I had no hand in this at all...

So just how excited are you now? Do you think it'll fit? Note: I said do you think it'll fit not will you make it fit (we know that's going to be the case)! Looking at that photo you appear to be missing the MAF sensor on the intake or did you get it in a box? The bit circled in green

Put the 200 in the boot ala top gear to power the winches? Then you have 10.

I've heard of a few conversions to vehicles down this way like that for foxing at night. Think the first I'd heard was someone extending a Discovery 1s pedals and steering column through the back of a bobtail / pickup conversion so the farmer could drive and shoot at the same time.

I had one, still have one somewhere, for the RR because a normal single extension jack has no where near enough travel to come close to lifting the wheels off. Looking at Stephens photo I think the Sprinter bottle jack would extend to just above the body of the big jack he's got. If I can find it I'll take a piccy comparing the two because I've got a Disco jack in the 110.

Time for an upgrade to facilitate spring changes mid event?

On a semi serious note I have an LD28 sitting around which is a pure mechanical diesel. Revs high for a diesel (about 5000rpm if I recall). Quite a compact engine despite being a straight 6. Didn't really work in the Sandringham but in a lighter vehicle might work well. Had a turbo bolted on the side and a DIY adapter plate to take it to a V8 bell housing (LT95). To you @Stellaghost I'd be happy to donate it to the Sid project. Could bung it on a pallet up to you if you want.