gadget

No need to measure the screw for me scrumps. I've replaced my discs today and the screw is an M8 20mm Thanks for the offer and good luck with your spannering over the weekend.

Can anyone confirm that the the brake disc retaining screws on a D2 are countersunk M8 x 20mm please?

Get them to transfer the switch from one unit to the other?

They're taking you for a ride there I would suspect? The switch on the steering lock is removable. Grab a barrel from a breaker and transfer the switch component to your steering lock. Two screws hold the steering binnacle on. Two shear bolts hold the assembly to the steering column. A couple of wiring plugs to separate and the switch is out. Where are you? If you're anywhere near Warrington i'll fit the switch for you if you get one from a breaker?

Answering my own question. It seems that the calliper and the disc have to come off in order to get to the sensor. Ah well.

The question at hand. Does the calliper bracket need to come off to replace the rear ABS sensor or is there enough access through the calliper bracket?

I'm on about half of that mileage, so "shouldn't" be bearings. Famous last words i'm sure.

When I had the wheel off earlier I couldn't get to the sensor at all. It looked like some form of access could be gained by removing the calliper, but whether that is enough to do the necessary I don't know. How many miles had your bearing covered before it shat?

I've done a couple of hundred motorway miles and it looks like the new pinion seal is doing its job Prop shafts seem happy too. Thanks for your input gents.

I've just jacked up the car again and swung on the wheel some more. I can't feel any play at all and the rotation is as smooth as the other side so i'm still of the mind the the bearing isn't shat just yet. Cleaning the seat of the sensor doesn't sound like a bad idea. Do you know if the sensor is accessible if you only remove the calliper or does the calliper bracket need to come off too?

If it's not the sensor it adds another £40 to the cost of a hub

I think my Discovery is feeling lonely on the drive as it keeps coming up with things to keep me outside with it The three amigos have visited and the errors i'm getting are: 16-06 rear left sensor output too low INTERMITTENT 016 times 20-06 rear left sensor output intermittent INTERMITTENT 020 times I can clear the faults and drive maybe 500 yards and the amigos will be back again. I've had a cursory look at the wiring and connector for that sensor and there's nothing obviously defective. Sensor itself reads 998 Ohms. There's no play in the wheel bearing. Interestingly the outer pad and disc on the NSR leg seems to have considerably more wear than the OSR. Is there a test procedure for an ABS sensor?

Just in case anyone else decides to rebuild the double cardan TD5 front prop and manages to drop some of the rollers from the centre bearing. There are 28 of them and YES they WILL fall through the hole at the bottom and go under the bearing! My grease gun connector is bloody useless. When greasing everything up it put more down the outside of the grease nipples than it puts into the UJs. Time for a new one.

I destroyed a couple of screwdrivers trying to get mine out. In the end I used a tyre iron. It really was hard to shift it. Rust seems to have crept down the bore and under the edge of the seal. I'm hoping to get the shafts rebuild today and then I can give it a run out. Hopefully the new seal wont leak

Scraped out and then sanded lightly. All done. Now on to the UJs...

I'm part way through doing this now. I've just got the old seal out. What a pig of a thing to remove! I've got a small ring of rust on the outside edge of the bore. Any suggestions on how to remove the rust without buggering up the bore? I don't want to drift the new seal over and past the rust as it will probably score along the way. Oh, and the TD5 axle doesn't have a f-tight 24MM nut holding the flange on. It's a 15MM bolt that's not overly tight.

Whilst it's fresh in your mind what size is the f-tight nut, is it 24mm?

I had my front replaced at 12K under warranty. According to the paperwork they replaced it with a 5258 and it's been trouble free since 2003. Is the older type really much better than the 5258?

My sentiments entirely. I'm going to order a couple extra and put them to one side I might as well replace my UJs too whilst i'm under there I think...

FTC5258 ordering time then Thanks.

The axle has done 66K miles and i've done them all so I know how gritty a set of miles they have been It's been off road a few times and up a mountain trail once, so nothing truly arduous.

Folks, The pinion seal on my TD5 rear diff is weeping. It's enough to moisten the diff casing but it's not enough to form droplets and drip on to the driveway yet. I've checked the axle breather and that seems fine, so can rule out pressure I think. The axle hasn't done starship mileage, so how likely is it that the flange will need replacing along with the seal?

Rear of crank case cover seal for leaks. Roof area above windscreen for rust. If it has ACE check the ACE pipes and control block for leaks/corrosion. Steering box for leaks. High pressure power steering pipes for corrosion. Low pressure power steering pipe for abrasion from impact on engine sump.