gadget

I may end up doing that with the sounder and wiring another horn under the bonnet for me to hear.

The main problem is the aftermarket alarm sounder. Some clever soul has mounted it in a perfect position to fill up with water. I'm hoping to dump the alarm and use the AS10 with an immobiliser ring eventually. I was just curious about the gap size and wondered if there was something amiss. @Western MTC6413 look like they'd be a solution I'll have a look at the adjusters. What gap size should I be aiming for?

The pin turns out to be some kind of security rivet. Compress the barrel in a vice to stop the pin spinning and then drill out with 5mm bit. The reason for removing it was to find out why the ignition lock had seized again. Turns out it's the last tumbler in the barrel that is worn and not siting properly when the key is in, along with debris in the barrel. Filed the last tumbler edge and cleaned everything up and it's back to working again.

I'm trying to remove the ignition lock barrel from its housing. I can see that it is held in place by a pin, but I can't see a way to release the pin. Anyone know how to release the pin?

Folks, During the heavy rain the engine bay on my 110 gets quite drenched due to the gap along the bonnet edge being more than 1/2 inch. Some of the under bonnet electrics aren't best pleased with the water Is there meant to be some kind or rubber lip or edging to fill this gap?

Just in case anyone else needs the info. On a post 1999 TD5 110 the rear pipe in 8'1" long.

I have the offending pipe off There was already a joint behind the footwell. Well, it was a joint. It's a blob of rust now. New pipe resting in place ready for fitting tomorrow

Where did you decide to site the join?

My 110 failed its MOT today on the long brake pipe that runs from the master cylinder to the rear flexi pipe. I think the tester is being REALLY picky to fail on this, but i'd rather have a fussy tester than a lax one... I'm planning on replacing the pipe with kunifer and was wondering if there are any gotchas or tips that I should be aware of?

Anyone know if replacement parts are available for the Mota Products flare tool? The pin in the centre of the double flare end of mine has departed

Are swing away wheel carriers really worth the hassle? I know the idea is supposedly to save the rear door hinges, but my 110 came from special vehicles without the wheel carrier on the rear door and the hinges are still buggered anyway.

Thanks for the info Ian. The reason i'm interested in the differences is because I have an MSB101171 unit here and it doesn't work any longer. The problem appears to be a 4.7uf 35v tantalum that has failed catastrophically and burned part of the board in its demise. I was curious if it could be that the previous owner had plugged it in to a 2002 vehicle and caused the failure. Chances are it was just the tantalum going short, but it's always good to ask if unsure.

Was the ILT additional wiring or using spares in the original loom?

Thanks folks. I don't suppose anyone has the pinout/wiring differences between the two for the EU2/EU3 engines?

At the change over from the old MSB ECU to the later NNN ECU, was the wiring changed at the ECU plugs?

I'm thinking about upgrading the 10AS to use the imob function... I'll drop you a PM.

The test flares were ones I made on small bits of pipe to get used to the tool. The ones on the brake pipe were not as uniform in shape, no matter how i tried. Here's the zip tie idea: Create the first bend on the new brake pipe and then zip tie your pipes together as you progress with each bend. It makes it much easier to follow the shape of the old pipe. The picture is all wobbly because I was trying to not get the camera covered in debris. Apparently I failed.

Caliper rebuild complete and brake pipes fitted. The flares on the brake pipes didn't look as good as the test flares. They're tightened up quite a bit and they don't appear to be weeping any longer. I did come up with a neat way of copying the existing pipe (well I think it's neat) by way of zip ties. I'll post a picture up when I can get my hands back on the camera. Something about camera, disgusting, oil, rust, dirt being the reason why it has been taken away...

For anyone else searching it appears to be AMR4897.

Box of brake goodies didn't turn up today so not had chance to test my handy work. Hopefully tomorrow... And once they're done it's on to stripping the front brakes, and if the rears are anything to go by i'm dreading the state of the fronts.

This is my plan... ...Eventually.

Hopefully the bits to rebuild the calipers will arrive tomorrow and I can test the flares Thanks folks.

I'm about to make the rear axle pipes but am a little concerned about the flare on the end. I've only got a cheap flaring tool and i've got no real examples to compare with, so would folks be kind enough to take a look at this and tell me if it looks ok or do I need to practice more? Cheers.

Just posted the how to. Hopefully it makes sense.

The wiper park switch failed on my 110 which meant that the wipers parked wherever they were when you switched them off. The switch is cheap and pretty much every supplier carries it. Part# 520160 First remove the speaker and panel Then prise off the Landrover badge and remove the grab handle You'll be able to see the wiper motor and switch You could probably replace the switch now, but I felt that the access was too restricted for me so I removed the left three screws from the top of the dash and from from under the edge in the middle to allow it to be lifted a little. Then I removed 5 screws from the dash in front of the motor. This allowed the dash to be pulled forward. Pull the grey plug from the switch. Then insert your favourite prying tool under the switch body and lift upwards. The switch will come free from the motor and you can remove the three spade connected wires. The switch has a metal clip on the rear of it that secures it to the motor body. You hold the switch firmly against the motor body and push down until it clicks. Everything goes back together in reverse order. Stephen