Marco

No force needed but it does sound a bit like the problem I have had with my disc brake conversion, not enough space to fit all bits (nuts and washer/outer seal). But it should not be like that as this is just a wheel bearing replacement. Are you 100% sure the new bearings are completely pressed/tapped into the hub?

Thanks, those symptoms are exactly the same, hot dry weather / warm and last stages of braking. Maybe I should invest into some better discs.... But have a set for the front laying on the shelf too Since the weather has changed yesterday, 10 degrees temp drop the squealing has gone too!

Keeping a few dust caps on the shelf could be handy. I have always used an aditional sealant (like black silicon) to glue the caps back before I upgraded to the HD flanges from Paddock's http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/A...o_KA930455.html which do have a nut/cap the same size as the wheel bearing nuts. Cheers Marco

Will do and if you remove the outer seal EP oil from the axle/diff will also help to lubricate the wheel bearing (like on Series Land rovers). Cheers Marco

Thanks Jim, no copperslip applied will try (carefully). I've fitted the pads together with the springs and pins supplied (by Mintex). There were no 'anti rattle plate thingies' supplied. In general the set-up is the same as on the front with the only difference those Paddocks discs. At this stage front is solid discs + Mintex pads, no copper slip or rattle plates, just pads and pins with small coil spring inbetween.

Hi, my rear disc brake conversion is doing fine but I do get a squeaking brake noise especially in hot/dry weather. Set-up is Paddock performance discs and Mintex brake pads. May be that combination is causing the noise? Cheers Marco

I'm very happy with my 200Tdi. If it's for a conversion I would go for 200Tdi as it's easier to fit. But it's also a question of budget available, availability etc. Something else to consider....with the curent diesel prices and may be proposed ban (would not be surpised it happens sometime in future?) on older diesel vehicles without filters etc. I would not invest to much in an old type engine myself. Here in Holland cities like Amsterdam are trying to get rid of older vehicles (not yet sucessful). Have you considered a LPG conversion?

Thanks :-) Thanks also for advice on removing the self levelling unit completely. It's gone now and new bushes + A frame ball joint have been fitted. Vehicle looks the same. I did use a hack saw to cut of the lower ball joint of the self levelling unit. From there I removed the remaining bit of the ball joint & housing out of the A frame using a hamer and chisel (to make it unscrew). Plan to fill up the empty hole with grease of bitumen so it will not collect water and rust to dead... But doubt I will ever fit back the SL unit.

The A-frame has been removed from the car now. On this unit the self levelling BJ's are shot and so is the the rubber gaitor. As I do have two A-frames I might just chop up this one by cutting off the SL unit. Supose the easiest way is with an angle grinder?

Thanks, might leave as is for the time being... I do have som OME HD springs on the shelf which I did take off together with the Quadtec body. Would prefer to keep the HD Britpart ones fitted right now as they are more comfortable.

I've only replaced the barrel and key, not sure if those are the parts you need to replace on yours?

I've managed to press out the A-frame ball joint (using my cheapo 12Ton press) but would like to replace the self levelling ball joints too. Does anybody know how to take those out? I suppose they will have to be unscrewed? Problem, I can not get a proper grip on the BJ housing with my shift spanner.

Looks like we are all members of the same club! Spend a lot of time on door lock problems, renewed locks and handles but still not 100%. If nothing happens at all I expect one of the small rods to be disconected. If they are fine it does sometimes help if you push the complete door a bit into the rubbers while turning the key. Cheers Marco

I've been using several materials. The noiskiller stuff designed to take out the drumming noise is OK but does come off easily. Best would be a combination of first a layer of anti drumming material and a second of noise deafening foam. I've also fitted a lead blanket but that one is now falling apart (200tdi), mainly because it can not be fitted flat on top of the engine. As soon as there is a contact between enginge blanket and the bonnet material the drumming noise of the engine will become worse. For the rest I've used lead bitumen all over the bodywork. inside doors, underneath, inside the cab etc. Cheers Marco

In my opinion any type of official rubber fuel hose + hose clamps will fit, just check the inside diameter, 6mm or 8mm. I using so bit of rubber hose on my 200TDI where the original plastic lines have been cut, works fine. Cheers Marco

To me those Goodwinch units look te same as the Champion ones, just a different badge as far as I can see?

Check Autotrader.co.uk and search on Defender, take a post code of one of the towns and a radius of 50 miles or so. There are a few garages selling complete and relatively cheap Defenders on a regularly base.

I know somebody who filled up his 2.5 diesel (radiator) with "medicinal salt sea water" from Mozambique, left it standing for a Month.... But that guy was not very clever, when pulling him to the gararge he did not unlock the steering lock, guess what happened at the first turn....

I do use black silicon sealant for fitting the waterpump on my 200TDI (works fine for me) but you might give it a try with brown chocolate paste instead?

Hi Gus, Thanks for your post and images, have been studying the pictures. It does sound like the right way to go for me. The parts used, it would be most helpful if you've got the part numbers for me. Are these standard items? Thanks Marco

Hi Ralph, Breathers have been cleaned and checked after the previous oil transfer. It's not pressure inside the transfer box, that breather pipe is not dripping oil. Seals, expect a problem because oil is getting in. Speed, running speeds of the OD have been up tp 70-80 Mph / 2-10 hours. Thursday I've been doing 675 miles / 1080 km. Will drain the unit and refil with ATF but that will not solve the problem. Does anybody know the part number of the shaft oil seal(s)?

Yes it has, or better that one has collapsed already so I've fitted a new expansion bottle (= basic fuel filter) on the other end of the tube inside the engine bay. Just to make it easier to monitor any leakages (+ oil being transferred into the bottle). It went fine for about 1500km but on the long run back home it started to fill up + drip out EP oil. Not sure if this has been a slow cumulative process. As the oil level of the transfer case is below the overdrive unit I expect some kind of vacuum inside the overdrive is causing the unit to fill up with EP.

Thanks.... but is it pressure inside the transfer case or a vacuum inside the overdrive? I do expect a vacuum as the LT230 breather is fine and not spitting oil. Disco gearing is unfortunately no option for my 200TDI 130 station, it's just to heavy. I do need the normal 5th gear ratio. Will probably run the OD on EP now as it is taking it in anyway, no clue what that will do to the unit as it is much thicker... at the moment the breather is spitting out an EP mixture into the engine bay, bad smell and very messy, need some kind of expansion tank or loop back into the transfer case. As the LT230 is a recon unit from Ashcroft I do n ot want to mess up that one due to the current overdrive failure. Looking at other GKN posts I do not expect much from contacting GKN....

Back in Holland after a trip to the South of France and Cinque Terre Italy, new disc brakes on the back turned out te be a very good investment / improvement! Especially on the steep and narrow roads at the Italian coast! Can recommend this upgrade to all drum brake Salisbury owners... Cheers Marco

Hi, for some reason my GKN overdrive is filling up with EP oil from the transfer case. On the run down to the South of France all went OK but on the way back the overdrive started to fill up. It's not the first time this has happenend. It first happend after 13000km. Innitially I was thinking the transfer box breather was blocked (cleaned all pipes after first filling up) but I now expect the overdrive unit to suck in EP oil.... Does anyone have had a similar problem? I'm using the clutch for all gear changes incl. overdrive in/out. I actually do consider to loop back the overdrive breather pipe into the transfer case. Not the best sollution as EP is not the right lubricant but at least the EP might stay in. Or take off the unit.... but I do like the low revs so much.. Cheers Marco