Marco

No I did not, normally I do. To do it properly you will have to dismantle the complete hub, take out the shaft, loosen the oil seal and loosen the steering rods... to much work so I went for the quick test. Might have to recheck properly. Today I have made two test runs up and down the wobble road, nothing went wrong. I tried my best to find a speed triggering the vibration but it just did not happen. I've rebuild these swivels last year and have set them to factory specs. I guess the parts have bedded in and that's what might have been causing the play. I did take out 0.5 mm which is a lot, maybe a bit to much. Steering is still fine but with PAS it's pretty difficult to feel the difference. Are there any preload readings available for complete not dismantled swivels (but with loose track / steering rod)? I guess much more force is needed to make them turn, would be handy if we can share data. Cheers Marco

Third for swivel preload.. FYI By now I've changed all front axle bits. Yesterday evening I did drive the 80/90 KM/h road which usually does triggers the violent shaking. It has been fine for a while but with a higher tire pressure it went wrong...again. So just now I've removed 0.5mm of shims to increase preload. I've not yet tested that particular road yet but hope this will sort it as there is nothing else to be changed. Cheers Marco

Sorted, it turned out to be one of the relay wires connected to a 12v plug, probably operated by the light switch. Just disconnected it and all (still) fine. Cheers Marco

On my 200Tdi there have been no heat issues at all, actually a bit to my surprise as I was concerned about it when I did buy that blanket. My vehicle (heavy 130) has only been running hot in the Alpes due to running it without the visco fan but not because of the blanket. Not much repmapping on a 200Tdi Cheers Marco

I did :-) Spent a lot of energy on taking out drumming panel noise + fitted professional foams. I do rate the vehicle as "relatively" silent. Enclosed some pictures of my blanket, still looking for other user experiences. Cheers Marco

Hi, Question for Noise Killer engine blanket users.. I did buy a blanket back in 2006. It did not last and ended up into a bag of lead fragments. Just wondering if there are more users who experienced a similar problem, heat and vibration breaking the lead sandwich into pieces (which sounds very logically to me). The manufacturer says they have never heard about it before... Any feedback available? Cheers Marco

I have removed the full size inter cooler, three units on a row just did not fit without changing the front panel of the vehicle. It will also restrict air flow to the radiator and so reducing cooling efficiency. So I did buy a standard size performance inter cooler and am selling of the full size one. For the A/C I did buy a 300Tdi kit as there is nothing available of the shelf for old 200Tdi. Pipes and pump needed mods but rest is a straight fit. Next week I will have the system connected + charged and will post some pictures. Cheers Marco

By now I've fitted a Brunel Intercooler + the aircon condensor supplied by Elite Automotive. Next step is connecting the whole system. As you can see I'm running the 200Tdi without visco fan, the unit on the picture is a Pacet 16" fan. Will post an update shortly as I'm fitting a complete kit supplied by Elite + some home made mods to make it fit my 200Tdi. Cheers Marco

FYI I did order that kit some weeks back but it did not match their picture.... no LR packaging at all. So very expensive OEM as other suppliers supply same OEM at a much cheaper rate. Cheers Marco

Thanks guys, I will focus on loose earth connections, maybe it's an earth wire connected to my timer relay which is behind the dash. Cheers Marco

I've worked on my electrics and ended up with a funny problem... every time I switch on the lights my wipers make one turn. It's just one turn and once only (next time it does not happen). Also a signal with main beam meant for another Landy driver is accompanied by waving the wipers! Not sure what can cause the interaction, guess some loose wires or bad connection, except a new wiper motor nothing has been changed. Does somebody know the (possible) answer why the wiper motor is being triggered by the light switch? Cheers Marco

Try to find where it's leaking from. Front and rear outpiy shaft seals easy to fix, cleaning breather also easy job but replacing seal / o-ring and more on intermediate shaft is much more work => remove complete unit and strip. Check this post: LT230 Transfer Box rebuild Cheers Marco

Sorted! Thanks again for the very useful link and quick reply. Cheers Marco

Thanks, very useful! The bad bit, just fitted my aircon facia and hope to get access to the motor without removing the whole unit... Cheers Marco

Hi, just fitted a new wiper motor RTC3867 and gear to my RHD Defender. For some reason the operation is the other way round, so parking top in stead of bottom. When I do switch on the wipers movement is first downwards. What did I do wrong? In my opinion it should move the other way round? Any suggestions? Cheers Marco

Thanks guys, yes you can spot the Peugeot parked on the other side of the street... but you can also spot the other SWB Landy, a seventies S3 in the other (double glazed) window! Cheers Marco

Just a picture (to share) of my "back on the road" S2a SWB.... it's 2010 but it could be 1965! Managed to get all other cars out of the way :-) Cheers Marco

Great you managed to finish the job. Sorry to hear you hurt yourself.... I now stock these "steri strips" made by 3M... after some problems with spanners ending up in my face! More info on this url: 3M Cheers Marco

Yep I did it that way, it might help if you've got "short arms", mine are relatively long!

Yep I left the caliper in place, just slide the shafts out of the diff, guess 2 inches / 5 cm each side will clear the diff. Like the other post, use quality bolts and or (preferable) replace with new ones with blue loctite.

FYI I have once changed a diff by my self while laying underneath the vehicle. It turned out to be almost impossible to lift the unit into the axle as it's just to heavy. So either jack it up a bit higher (using good axle stands) to get more clearance or get someone to help you. Best would be a pit or professional bridge so you can stand + have good access. I did slide out the complete hubs and axle shafts (by undoing the swivel to axle bolts) just enough to free the diff. Cheers Marco

Thanks for the reply and pdf. My hood is a Britpart one, guess it's made by All Wheel Trim and all fixings are like original as far as I can see. I might move the horse shoe to the corners & will have to shorten the ropes a bit to make it look more tidy. Cheers Marco

There is a flange gasket, either replace or use silicon sealant. On my vehicles I do replace them and buy them 10 in a bag.. flange gasket If you are planning more off roading + worried about loosing hub cabs you can consider to fit these: HD flange Double check part numbers if you order anything using a Td5 parts catalogue. Cheers Marco

Thanks for the image, I did examine some pictures and e.g. on a Defender the horse shoe is a bit more in the center... I will leave it where it is right now to avoid drilling extra holes! Cheers Marco

I suggest to take off the flange and check if dirt has entered the space around the wheel bearings. If yes take all apart, clean and refit with wheelbearing grease. Via the stub axle and half shaft water / dirt can also travel into the axle casing. To clean the inside of the axle you will have to take the whole unit apart including differential but that's a lot of work! It's difficult to check via the forum but if there is no visisble dirt on the shaft I guess it's all not to bad. Start with removing flange and halfshaft. Changing axle (diff) oil is also advisable. Cheers Marco