Marco

I've recently fitted the Ashcroft R380 kit... http://www.landrover...00tdi-defender/ It's a straigt fit and replacement for the LT77 Cheers Marco

Just use it normally, no overloading and no driving like a vicar (Richard Turners advice...) It will take 500-2000 Miles IMO to run in. Cheers Marco

Like above, it's 3 bolts only on a genuine safari snorkel. To make it seal properly most people will use silicon sealant I guess (like I did to mine). So with bolts out it should come loose. Cheers Marco

Some other info on input gears, I've checked on 3 different LT230 boxes and most input gears do not line up properly with the intermediate gear. e.g. I fitted a replacement x-drilled input gear to one LT230 and the difference / match is about 1mm, easily to spot and to feel. It can not be pushed in far enough to make it match 100%. According to Ashcroft the gears often do not line up properly. As there are no shims you can take out or replace at the front there is not much you can do about that problem. I have now removed this particular box out of my vehicle as it's making a bit of a high noise around 100-120 km/h. Looking at parts and clearances it's however the best box out of three. The other box I will put in now is my Ashcroft one, re-rebuild by myself using OEM bearings and a new steel sleeved intermediate shaft transfer casing + some other bits. The line up of the GKN over drive input gear on that box is OK. It used to be silent so hope it will be like that again... will probably know by tomorrow when fitted into the vehicle. Cheers Marco

Over the weekend I've assembled two complete LT230 boxes, I recommend to take the box out vs just putting a new gear in. First without taking out the box you can not properly inspect main shaft splines and second checking bearing end float / resistance is not possible with the box in situation. Removing the outer race of the front bearing will be a difficult one... not sure if that's possible at all without removing the box. And when you have it on the shelve it's much easier to check the rest like intermediate shaft (leaks) front + rear output shaft bearings etc. OK it's more work but guess bit more durable than just putting in a cross drilled gear. Drilling your old gear on a DIY base is also possible, as far as I can compare the only difference is a hole in it! That will save you cash and problems with bearings and alignment. Beware, by now I know that (new) input gears do not always line up properly, it can easily be one mm off. Cheers Marco

Like a K&N? On my Series I did route a crankcase breather hose into a K&N by drilling a hole in the metal top cover + fitted a connector for a hose. Maybe such a solution can work for you? Alternatively you can route the pipe into e.g. the chassis / atmosphere (previously used method on my Turbo Diesel) but that will be bit messy. Cheers Marco

I suggest into any hose / pipe before the turbo? Where did your air filter assembly go? Cheers Marco

I've dismantled a 200Tdi 110CSW, 1992 model and that one did have the (narrow) column and padded 300Tdi type steering wheel. I'm pretty sure that one has been factory fitted. But have just upgraded to Moto Lita leather Cheers Marco

I've just bought this Bearmach core.. as listed at mailorder4x4 so far it has been good (only 500 miles up to now). Did not fancy to get an aluminium cored one (because cooling capacity is excellent already) but I did invest into a standard size performance Brunel Intercooler for 200Tdi. My last 200Tdi radiator has been recored by a local workshop, lasted for 8 years but now all copper can be wiped out. But no leaks... The replacement unit bought just now is about half the price of recoring the old one once more (this side in Holland) Cheers Marco

I'm rebuilding two LT230 boxes side by side, this video is the front output shaft movement. It's a short shaft with one ball bearing only. You can hear it move up and down / side to side but if it's 1mm or less, difficult to say. If you take off the flange, remove the oil seal and circlip + refit the flange you can drift the shaft + bearing to the front, tapping it with a hammer / soft bar. Can not find the thread but it's on this forum with images to show how to do it. Cheers Marco

Just check this forum / do a search there is a thread were they show how to remove it without taking the whole unit out of the vehicle (guess someone will post it soon). Buy a new output shaft oil seal, preferable genuine OEM. Not much else you have access to. Not sure what is wrong with your bearing but as it's a ball bearing there will always be some side way play on the shaft, from new. Cheers Marco

Running General Grabber AT2 235/85x16 on Tubeless Wolf rims, standard wheel studs (bit short), now at 80.000km, no problems with studs or wheels. Cheers Marco

There have been multiple posts recently, for me it ended up to be the 'swivel preload'. Before doing the shims I've replaced all other parts, bushes and track rod ends (steering). To remove shims is very easy, but doing it properly is much more of a dismantling and checking job (with correct preload). I took the shortcut and removed 0.5mm shims, so far that sorted my 'death wobble'. Cheers Marco

I used to have zinc coated rims on my 109, they never ever rusted again. Just have them sandblasted and (hot) zinc coated like on this image: You need a suitable primer and can paint them afterwards, much more durable than powder coated finish. Cheers Marco

Dismantle the 25D box just now. All not to bad, there is no cross drilled input gear but splines are fine. Counted all gear ratios and they are the same compared with my 22D box. That's actually the way it should be as both are 1.410 boxes. (check this link and click on technical information to expand) Unfortunately on this box the same problem with the rear bearing being a loose fit onto the differential assembly. Some othere diferences, my 25D box has an intermediate gear with circlips inside the gear cluster, the 22D has no circlips fitted. I measured both and the bearing position is the samen. Guess 22D no clips superceeded clipped 25D. Actuallly there is no use for those clips anyway as the bearing is a tight fit to the center part of the gear cluster + can not move further inwards. Anyway not sure what I will do, create one new box and use the differential assembly of the last box (slighly better / more tight than the other one) or order a new part. The main question, what will be the expected life time if I do not repplace the differential assembly. I would not be surprised if let say 50% of all LT230 running around this planet do have a loose rear bearing. I guess the reconditiones should know the answer. My statistics so far 2 out of 3 LT230 units did have a loose bearing. Cheers Marco

Thanks, and yes that's the question, I guess not that many people will buy for DIY recon jobs. And for the professional rebuilder, even if Britpart bits are fitted to recon boxes the price tag would superceed the selling price of a reconditioned box. e.g. core 150, new box 445 so 300 quid left for labour and parts... which is not much IMO. Not sure how much time is needed to do one box but workshop labour this side is around the 50 quid per hour. Will try to strip my 25D this afternoon, hopelfully I can use the diff assembly of that box. To be continued. Cheers Marco

On Paddock website go to this link click on front brakes and go to page 3. There are many different ones listed, you will need the chassis number to identify the correct ones needed. This Parts Catalogue could be helpful. (30 mb file size) Cheers Marco

I did replace all my doors back in 2007 with Paddock supplied news ones. The delivery man was not happy.... carrying them to my front door. By now they have been on the vehicle for 3 years, I did my utmost best to prevent them from rusting, which is pretty impossible. There is rust on the wax coated frames and earlier this year aluminum corrosion started to show on the flat part below the window. I guess they just do not last because of the fact they are made up out of two types of metal pressed together, steel and aluminum. If available I would suggest to go for the best / newest available genuine doors, guess they will outlast any pattern type. Or alternatively dismantle a non genuine new door, have the frame galvanized and refit. Not sure it that's a viable option. Cheers Marco

Some additional text on this one, the YouTube movie. I've not named the parts properly which is confusing. Also I did not measure but estimated the movement front / rear of the differential assembly FRC7926 (wrongly named shaft by me). Some of the movement could be caused by the rear housing being removed. By now I've dismantled all so it's difficult to check which is causing what. The one fact I do have is the rear bearing fitted onto FRC7926. It could be pulled off by hand, no tools (bearing puller) needed. The rebuild of this box is on hold, need to search for alternative bits first, I do have another LT230 (25D) unit on the shelf and hopefully the differential assembly on that one is in a better shape. Time will tell. Buying FR7926 is not a viable option, new >GBP 1,000 and non genuine around the 200 Mark. Wonder if somebody has fitted the non genuine part + can comment on it's durability. Cheers Marco

I just fitted a rear door liner supplied by MUD and yes it looks good! Needed to trim it a little bit but easy job with a knive an file.

Yes that must be it, I know it's in place but will have to take the drums off to check if it's tight. Thanks.

Thanks. Will have to dismantle / inspect. But first looking at part catalog (S3, 88), maybe you can list the retainer part? I do see two springs and the locking plate at the bottom of both shoes but nothing labeled as retainer in catalog. Presume it's the locking plate 236993 & 236995? Cheers Marco

My S2a is making a funny 'tak tak tak' noise on braking, it's coming from the back of the vehicle. Could it be the brake shoes or should I expect more to be wrong? Never ever heard it before on my 109 vehicles. Cheers Marco

Hubs are available new.... e.g. Paddock Spares GBP 46.25 ex vat That's probably Britpart but as it's a low tech piece of steel it could be OK. I've been lucky to dismantle a complete 200Tdi 110 CSW... reusing all bits Cheers Marco