Marco

Update on my own post, the new bearing will slide on and off by hand so this shaft can not be used... another set back as I did buy the full bearing kit already. Have one more LT on the shelf, might try to create one recon box out of these two units.

I've used pre 300Tdi parts on my disc brake conversion, the Diesel Jim method. The only new parts needed are the brackets (genuine LR), two front hubs (pre 300Tdi), two calipers, two discs, pads, some bolts and the DIY 6mm spacer. I've used the drum brake stub axles and drive shafts of the old axle. I rate it as one of the best and easiest conversions available. Have some extra brackets shelved and will build another axle some time in future. Cheers Marco

You're welcome. For part numbers, I did buy a complete kit incl. seals all OEM / genuine Timken. Check this link for the parts catalogue, transfer box starts at page 361 of the pdf. It's 29mb file size and if you print this one your printer might start to smoke :-)

Yes it has been spinning on the shaft which means this shaft is probably ready for the bin... which means end of that box / not possible to recondition it anymore. I've checked bearings used on this LT230 box and the are all 'New Sun' branded. That's China made and they "could be OEM quality" but are e.g. not Timken or SKF. Cheers Marco

Not sure but the rear bearing is a loose fit on the shaft. Maybe it has grinded down itself a bit. Will try a new bearing hopefully it will fit onto the shaft tight. Cheers Marco

An update on this one.... I've just dismantled this LT230 and it's IMO a bit shocking. See enclosed images of the old casing and intermediate shaft hole, the shaft and the rear (main) bearing of the main shaft. I wanted to pull it off but it ended up to be a loose fit on to the shaft! I could push the whole shaft front to rear as you can see in the movie, about 5mm play. I'm not sure what to do as all indicates high mileage wear even parts are out of a reconditioned box. My initial plan is to rebuild this unit and replace it with my first rebuild (which is now in the car). But the parts on that one were in a much better shape than the parts of this professionally reconditioned box... I might stick with my first recon job for the time being. Cheers Marco

Yes just studied thread and this might be one bridge to far for me... Especially because of the lack of tools and proper workshop space.... Cheers Marco

Thanks, have found this one: LT77 Cheers Marco

Hi, Investigating the DIY rebuild of a LT77, have started yesterday but did not come that far, 1st problem main shaft collar. Question, which tools are needed / suggested to strip the box without buying official (way to expensive) workshop tools. e.g. universal bearing puller etc. Cheers Marco

I feel this is very close to the truth.... next question how to solve it DIY or pull out the wallet

I've been driving on the motor way this afternoon and the same noise in 5th gear, only 4th +/- is silent. At the moment I do consider to take apart my shelved LT77 56A suffix H, used to be fine except nasty spline damage on the main shaft. Just found out I do need special tools to take the box apart.... The recon unit I'm using (with the noise) is from Luton, now at 52.000km. For some reason both reconditioned LT230 and LT77 are causing me problems. (see my post on intermediate shaft leak) Cheers Marco

I've replaced manifold gaskets + turbo gaskets, might have been a little leak. But more on the LT77... I now guess it's the LT77 creating the nasty noise. On 1, 2 and 3 you can hear the noise, best on the overrun. In 4th there is no noise at all, silent on acceleration and overrun. Did not try 5th in town. Presume it's the unexpected end of my professionally reconditioned LT77 Cheers Marco

Here we go, I've made another recording now with sound insulation removed. more noise Best recording starts at around 30 secs, on overrun and keeping phone close to gearbox tunnel. Right now it does sound like a bearing noise to me... still bit of the submerged cat rattle...primary pinion or clutch release maybe?

Thanks, yes most noticeable on the overrun.

..... OK my side too, I do have to switch my amplifier to very loud but can get a decent volume.. It's a bit of a whine, submerged loud purring cat noise, engine revs related. Cheers Marco

Hi, I do have a new (engine) problem. It's engine noise, most noticeable on acceleration and engine braking. Two videos to listen to: I'm searching for leaks, expect e.g. manifold or turbo leak but on stationary / no load I can not spot any leaks. It's 200Tdi engine. Suggestions welcome. Thanks Marco

Hi, I'm looking for the part number for ETC5898, the thin metal one and not the thick one which can be found here. My manual is only listing ETC5898 but part taken off is a thin metal gasket. It's for 200Tdi turbo to exhaust elbow. Does anybody has the part number on file? Update, I guess the part number is correct and genuine is a thin metal one and the other type non genuine? Anyone to confirm? Cheers Marco

I've just fitted a new Turbo to my 200Tdi, same type of loud noise at 2500+ revs, tightened all manifold & turbo nuts and that made it disappear. Suggest to check for (air) leaks first. Cheers Marco

No file attached... I just replaced the complete axle casing on my 130, the old 1989 unit did have a bad oil leak. I'm happy I did because on inspection the front pan showed more signs or deterioration. On my car it also meant all new axle and bolt holes = better fit and less play. A lot of axle parts are interchangeable between Land Rover, Range Rover and Discovery. e.g. I ended up with a wrongly supplied casing for a Range Rover for air suspension + wider trailing arms. But I've made it fit using later type wider trailing arms. I presume you've got a front axle with 10 spline differential as fitted to 200Tdi. Check this link for manuals: Land Rover Manuals & Catalogues Cheers Marco

Hi Del, I've used UK Polybushes on a 130 (mainly road use) and also on a Series 109 in Africa. On the 130 I do rate them to be more flexible than OEM rubber ones (to much body roll). On the Series vehicles I do rate them as unsuitable due to the fact that with leaves springs the full vehicle weight will rest on the Polybush material inside the leaf springs vs coil spring vehicles where weight will rest on the spring, not the bush. On my Series the center tube pressed itself trough the softer bush compound. For changing bushes it will not make much difference, I've always needed some kind of press to get them in or out. Both OEM and Poly. I do not know the Super Pro ones but others are positive according to posts. Guess you will have to decide if the extra expense is worth the better ride / expected durability. Cheers Marco

I'm a OEM bushes fan.... so no Polybushes for me (anymore)... you will find more than one discussion on this forum and others. Cheers Marco

LOL To me the symbol does actually look a bit like 'terminate' ... bang goes the engine.... Cheers Marco

I've an additional question... what's the meaning of the 'not used' red waning light on the left bottom row under 'park brake'. I'm now using that one as a waning light for my heated windshield but wonder it's purpose. It looks like this: Any ideas? Just connected the center light (high temperature, also 'not used' next to trailer) to my electric fan thermostat, makes sense IMO. Cheers Marco

On my 200Tdi I've been searching for a fuel starvation problem in the past. It drove me mad. In the end it ended up being paper towels inside my replacement fuel tank. Small particles being sucked into my fuel pump blocking supply at higher revs. If it's a newer engine like Td5 i guess it might be something electrical? Cheers Marco

I've also just replaced my radiator and oil cooler pipes as part of my 200Tdi engine project. Mine are the latest type and I did buy both a new radiator core BTP1823S and the latest type 200Tdi part numbers ESR1912 and ESR1913 (only available from Land Rover re. my supplier). They use the o-ring on both sides. But on the radiator side you will need the screw in adapters to make them fit. Cheers Marco