voevod

Sorry,it's a 1990 200Tdi.

Yes,a nightmare alright.I've been using a broken wind up torch!No,the problem only started about an hour ago,I've been driving it all day.

That's what I don't understand,I have all lights,heater plugs,battery etc.I did jack the engine a little to ensure my new blue box exhaust fitted.I wonder if I've dislodged the low tension cable?

Bit of an emergency this one.Been driving about all day without a hitch,then tonight,I turn the key and nothing.I'm getting all lights on and dash lights,but when I turn the key there's no noise,no starter.Could it be a wire from the starter?

this standard fork failed after 54 days...do I need to say what colour of box it came in?

there's not much more work if you just replace the hinges and paint them

Mine came without,I just cut up an inner tube to size

I had the budget for a newer one,but I plumped for my present one as the chassis was/is as new;that and the fact that Td5 electrics scared me off!So now I have a much better 110 than the one that was at the top end of my budget,for considerably less money.I don't mind spending a bit of time/money on it,everything just bolts on and off anyway really

well,in the last 10 months I've put in a new engine,g/box,clutch,rebuilt t/box,x-member,military front bumper,shocks,springs,front doors,footwells,steering box,steering pump,rad,water pump,timing belt,steering damper,exhaust,lights front and rear,vdo gauges,polybushes all round,rebuilt the front calipers,new brake pipes,half-shafts,swivel balls,brake servo,master cylinder,silicon turbo hoses,bigger wheels and tyres and a-frame balljoint is in the post.Once I've repainted and waxoyled the chassis,I've only got the bodywork to paint,new seats to put in and finally get my cubby box and recently bought nato hitch bolted in!Pretty pampered imho

aye...and my 110 is very pampered

there's no doubt about how good they look,or how well they're made,but I bought a cheap set a couple of years ago and they don't weep or sag either...nor have they started rusting.Not my place to question your expenses...you must have a very understanding missus though

so,for £720 you have...door hinges!can I suggest you put my name on your Christmas present list?

I suppose the quality and workmanship is very good,but are those prices really justified?Unless bling is the byword,I'd buy these... http://www.rjlandrovers.co.uk/ and spend your £280 change on something else

cheers guys,I get it now...wow the hitches aren't cheap are they?!

I may be getting a sankey widetrack in the near future and am confused about what I actually need to bolt on to my rear crossmember.Is it just the hitch itself,or do I need the drop bar as well?And do I need a strengthening plate on the inside of the x-member?sorry if it's been asked before

I have a similar problem on mine,check the pipe between brake master cylinder and vacuum also check the servo for leaks.Also,did you refit the bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the inlet manifold when you did the swap?I didnt and the power was well down and sounded like I had a tarpaulin stuck in the front axle!...just a couple of other things you can check

didn't see this post.I came across the same problem when i swapped engine.The pipe coming out of the water pump to rad is facing a different angle,on the defender it faces left but on the disco it points straight down.I went down the cannibalism route utilising some galvanised pipe and so far,no problem.You can just see it at the top right of the pic. ...silicon'll look great though

when you say it's overheating,do you mean the temp gauge is reading higher than it should?was the 90 a 200tdi also?did you change the temp sender on the thermostat housing to accomodate the difference in engine?

I can't really see the point in them myself,most vehicles sport visible brake discs,but there surely must be a reason for them otherwise they wouldn't be there

right..I started off with the g/box and discovered it was quite low,so drained it and filled it with fresh dex11 and topped up the t/box,took out my intercooler and flushed it,but the noise was still present..I dogged up the turbo manifold bolts to the maximum I dare and two of the inlet bolts went a bit further as well..if after tomorrow the noise still persists I'll smear some exhaust putty on the manifolds and put them back on.Is it ok to use this manifold again,as it's only been on for 24 hours or so since I put it on?

I retained my def manifold and turbo for this disco engine,so looks like I'm going to have to put the disco turbo/manifold on...oh joy.Thing is,the only thing that's changed is the manifold gasket and I sprayed the manifold with h/r paint,I treated it like fine porcelain once I'd taken it off.I'm going to give it the once over again in the morning,see if there's anything that I've missed...noticed that the oil feed on top of the turbo,the banjo has only one copper washer,at the bottom...there's no copper washer directly under the bolt-head.This was taken off/put back on by someone else "trying to help"...this wouldn't interfere with the flow of oil to the turbo would it?

cheers for that,I thought it might have been stuck inside somewhere...if it's the gasket at the rear of the turbo,I think it's a thin metal gasket?Just taken it out for a run and drove quite hard,bit of a burning smell too.I remember how difficult it is to loosen those damn pinch bolts as well...happy days

seems to be on inlet side,but I've tightened everything properly.I noticed a little exhaust gas escaping from behind the turbo,but not pressurized enough to make this noise.If any tissue was stuck in the turbo,I assume it wouldn't spin smoothly,but it runs fine and the vanes are spinning freely,although the front of the turbo remains coolish,whereas the iron work is roasting as ever.It's just that this particular noise sounds more mechanical than just air escaping.Certainly doesn't seem to be down on power...just don't want to destroy my turbo!!!

it only seems to do it under load,when I'm booting it up a hill,or on the flat,but not at idle,even when I rev the engine at standstill...I mean it could be that it's meant to sound like this,I've had nothing but trouble with aftermarket gaskets and this is the first genuine one that's been fitted to ma 110.However if me daughter didn't get all the tissue that I put in the turbo inlet aperture leading from the intercooler(to keep stuff from getting in),could this noise be caused by tissue stuck in the turbo?

have just replaced my inlet manifold gasket,but my turbo(I think)is making a funny noise,like a dry whistle,if that makes sense...should I put some oil in where the feed pipe is,or is that just when you fit a new one?