voevod

I also have a K&N,which was fitted before I owned it...after reading the above,I'll be changing it over for a paper one tomorrow.For a few extra miserable horses,it simply isn't worth it.As old & wrinkly says,if LR found K&N were better,they would be fitted as standard.

I agree,they are fantastic paint jobs...I'd be interested to know what paint you used on the 90 in the fourth picture down,as that's exactly what I want for my 110.I take it that it's olive drab and not nato green.Is it matte as it looks quite a satin type finish?and finally,is there a paint code for it?

this is my latest niggle since swapping over disco engine(200tdi) into my 110.When the engine has heated up,the needle of the gauge stays at a point just below red.I have read somewhere that there is an adaptor that I can fit to where the sensor is on the thermo housing that will allow me to have a more accurate reading...or has this smirnoff affected my memory

have just braved glasgow weather to measure drag tube,same as western-787mm end to end

brilliant...cheers mal,that I can do

cheers snagger,hopefully just the notification will suffice.I fitted it myself,in my garden..defender engine out,disco engine in,never intend selling,so no garage report etc...fingers crossed

could someone tell me exactly what the procedure is regarding informing dvla of engine change?is it simply a matter of printing the new engine number and signing it?I've been told a few horror stories and there's a nagging doubt that I've overlooked something thanks

when I put my other doors on I just used a grinder down the line of the bolt-heads on the old hinge

as you say,check and recheck...I had a half-shaft end break in the diff with no prior notice

I'm currently in exactly the same position as you...change your alternator or get it reconditioned..I'm in the process of hammering off me old pulley as the one I've been given hasn't got one...it never rains but it pours!

thanks fer that everyone..I'll let ya know what I come up with...I'm also wanting to fit a turbo gauge but need detailed instructions re wiring and to know what's cheapish and suitable for a defender200tdi

my dash gauge lights are impossible to see after about 4pm!I've been told that led is the way to go...but what size are the capless bulbs that go in the back of the gauges..and how many will be needed?is it just one bulb per gauge?I don't need anything fancy,just something that'll tell me how fast I'm going etc preferably cheaply!

as far as I know the 5 refers to the oil's "cold" viscosity i.e.on startup...maybe you should get a thicker grade of oil

this may sound like a dumb suggestion,but have you checked your transfer box?the reason I ask is that when I broke my first one I got a cheap replacement and noticed a distinct lack of power like yourself.turned out I had bought a 1.66 ratio t/box...top speed 55-60mph,engine revving it's guts out...overtaken by fully loaded bin lorries etc...just a suggestion

assuming that when you drive in a straight line the vehicle doesn't pull to either side,and that you have an equal amount of turn both left and right,I would say your steering is aligned...on the drop arm(RTC6398 on your vehicle),there are master splines which prevent you from putting it on the steering box threaded shaft wrongly.As you can see on mine,the drop arm faces the offside of the vehicle,yet it is perfectly centred and my steering is properly aligned. As rangeroverblues said,it will face to the right as it sits parallel to the steering knuckle joint.If the total measurement for the draglink is accurate(ish),point the roadwheels straight ahead,take off yer steering wheel and put it back on straight...

as above...my drop arm doesn't point straight ahead either,but it's on right and my wheels point straight ahead...just reset yer steering wheel

Is it possible that your rear crank oil seal is leaking on to the friction plate?When you have this vibration,do you lose power at all?I would check all pipes in case of delamination and the inlet manifold for leaks...this was a problem I had and couldn't locate...turned out to be the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the inlet had broken and it sounded like a tarpaulin stuck under the front axle.Certainly check the uj's,but they would have squealed loudly for a while before collapsing and just rumbling:)

I'm sorry,when you say boost pipe,do you mean the black pipe that you cut a t-piece into if you're fitting a turbo guage?I have a feeling that this pipe may have a split in it now that I come to think of it,where it meets the front of the turbo. The smoke is really thick and black on boost,not really so noticeable at idle. I'll check all pipes end to end in the morning. I have noticed that there is some oil in the pipe leading into the top intercooler port,as it hadn't been tightened up properly...I wouldn't have noticed but for the fact that I changed them for blue ones!I don't know how significant that may be though. ...and finally,happy new year to you too

cheers,I'll try all that in the morning...now that I'm finally sober!

the first time I needed my uj's doing,I was quoted £160 for my rear prop,which I thought was a bit excessive for half an hour's work(especially as a new prop inc uj's is considerably less).Now I just buy them off the same bloke and fit them myself.Can't say he's too happy about missing out on easy beer tokens though!I'm going to treat my 110 to a new military bumper with some of the cash I've saved,instead of donating it to tennent's lager

now you're blindin me with science!the turbo's out of me old 200tdi engine...pretty much identical to the one I've kept from the disco,just a different fitting.I'll check the FIP and diaphragm when I find out what they are! thanks again

I used the alt from the disco as I damaged the defender one turning the housing round to accomodate the bracket and cut off the multiplug from the wires and put on ring connectors.The only wiring that initially worried me turned out to be the radio supressor.Thanks to another thread,I now know how to check the alt.I'll check the earth wiring behind the brake servo in the morning also. There was smoke from the manifold when I first turned the engine over,so I replaced the gasket..problem solved.However,the exhaust to t/box bracket(apparently no longer available)broke for the third time,so I did away with the front box,which was damaged anyway and welded in another piece of exhaust pipe,so now I only have a rear box.Is it possible that this could cause the 007 style smokescreen? thanks for the advice,much appreciated

I've been running about in my 110 for 4 months with it's donor engine,t/box out of a disco1 and have to say,it's a vast improvement on the old engine and it's 1.44 t/box(which I know inside out now).I have run into a few problems,which I'm hoping are minor... I have an earthing issue which drains my battery after around 3 hours driving,lights go dim,won't restart if I switch ignition off etc..I earth the battery to the t/box and another earth strap from the steering pump housing to the chassis..should I return the battery-t/box earth to the chassis(to one of the gearbox x-member bolts?)for a better earth?There was no strap on the starter at all..should I fit one?to one of the rocker cover bolts? for the specific purpose of changing the timing belt,I left off the viscous unit/fan after putting in the new engine,but have been told that I don't need it anyway..is this true? when i swapped over the engine I decided to retain the turbo and inlet manifold from the defender(it just fits better)but notice that there is an alarming amount of black smoke pretty constantly belching out of the exhaust,everything torqued up properly,new gaskets etc..but it didnt smoke on the disco at all any help greatly appreciated

aye,it's a pretty easy job to do,although I personally would get new rings and check the turrets...commonsense if its all coming off.I fitted h/d springs and fancy shocks...wish I hadn't now.Landrovers are all tested to the limits without fancy setups,I'm settling for o/e next time

I was lucky enough to be able to just batter mine out with a big hammer and long chisel,had the option of putting heat on it but was unwilling to put it anywhere near the outer seal...just remember to slather the new one in copper grease before fitting it,thwen you won't have the same problem when it needs changed again.