Roverdrive
-
Posts
718 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Roverdrive
-
-
Another vote for LED here as well.
One 27w unit mounted above and to the left of the door.
Gives plenty of light for working at the back of the motor hitching trailers etc.
I have put a switch inside the back door to switch it on with the ignition off. Once the ignition is live, the supply to the light is cut, keeping everything legal(ish).
I have another switch on the dash to use it as an extra reversing light in poor conditions, when seeing anything in the mirrors is a lottery. Again this is wired via a relay, and is only live when reverse is selected.
HTH
-
Ouch!
Have you tried trying to isolate the sound by using an ear against the handle of a (very) long handled screwdriver pressed against the area of the bearings?
Usual warnings apply:
Wear a hair net.
No loose clothing.
Objects in mirror may appear further away than they actually are etc.
Might help you narrow down the location.
Check the crank pulley for play as well, although these tend to give more of a knocking sound than what you have.
-
Meant to add that it should be none OAT antifreeze for the 300 tdi IIRC.
That is what I have used in mine anyway.
-
OK
Will await the video!
-
Its not the key sticking in the start position is it?
My 110 decided to do that a while ago, and it did make a racket.
-
As the door card was on its last legs, I decided to go down the chequer plate route, but not being a fan of the silver bling sprayed it up in satin black.
In hind sight this may prove to be a mistake if it is not tough enough to withstand scuffing.
Perhaps powder coating would have been a better option?
I added three door pockets from a company called nets4you, as they were wire framed rather than the plastic ones on eblag.
-
If there was no attendant change in noise with the smoking, I would be looking at the turbo hoses rather than the turbo itself.
It sounds like the engine is being starved of air at high load demand, causing the excessive smoke.
-
Hi
Check the alignment of the pulleys.
The first video looks like they are out of line, but might just be the camera angle.
-
If you add a location to your profile, you may find there is someone local to you who can assist.
-
The max weight for the wheel should be cast on one of the spokes on the inside of the wheel.
After going through this with my 110, I can confirm that the Freestyles and original 3 spoke RRC alloys are only rated to 850kg.
I have now gone for the boosts, with Maxxis 764 tyres fitted.
-
Looking at the action of the gauge, the movement is too fast to be driven by the coolant.
Looks to be an electrical problem to me.
-
Garry
This one looks similar??
I can't be 100% sure though.
The years indicated would be about right as it was 1999 / 2000 when I did the conversion.
If you still have contacts in the 101 club, try contacting Steve Taylor, as he bought the 101 from me.
-
Garry
No problem.
It was just the outrigger cut off as I remember.
I will try to have a look when I get home to see if I have any more info on the conversion.
There were two sizes of van as I remember.
The smaller single wheel rear axle, and the larger twin rear axle that were used as ambulances.
I bought the parts from a "friend of a friend" who was taking the unit off his 101 to return it to original spec for some reason!
-
Markoteal
Sorry for encouraging paranoia....
Actually, no I am not!
It saved me a blown engine.
-
Garry
Just had a brain wave.
Use the Wayback Machine to see an old page from my site.
There are some pictures on there which may help you.
Link is...
-
Hi Garry
I did this mod on my since departed 101 some years ago.
If memory serves correctly, the box was from a Leyland Daf van, possibly badged as a Freight Rover.
There was an adapter plate which bolted to the chassis, and a brace which welded to the bumper I think.
If you are a member of the 101 owners club, post up on there as the new owner is a member.
I may have pictures on my PC at home, but am working away at present.
If you can PM me a reminder in a week or so, I will have a look.
It was 14 years ago, so the memory is a bit hazy!
Mike
-
The failure of the p gasket on my 300tdi manifested itself the same way.
Water was jetting from around the head of one of the three long bolts, and spraying on the back of the pulley of the water pump.
For the sake of the cost of a pump I changed it at the same time.
-
Its worth turning at full lock with someone keeping an eye out, to see where things lie, and repeating when reversing.
Consider the corner of the vehicle relative to the trailer as well as the step. You might find this is the limiting factor rather than the step.
ALKO did do spacer blocks for fitting their stabiliser hitch, and if I remember correctly these were available in different thicknesses up to about 25mm.
This was for the standard tow ball, and looking at your set up you already have an extended neck tow ball. I don't know if these are compatible with spacer plates, as you already have greater leverage on the bolts. Just something to consider.
It looks as though you have a spacer plate behind the drop plate, which I assume is to clear the bolts for the step and the guard.
Can you mount the step on the front side of the drop plate?
Might give you a few more mm clearance. Since this is only for the step, shallow head bolts could be used if clearance is an issue.
-
Mike
I see why you were having issues now, as mine is of course sandwiched behind the tow hitch, making it much lower.
The handbrake looks to be the same length, but I would check your clearances especially when reversind when you are more likely to jacknife a trailer.
-
GW8IZR
Cheers for the advice on that. Will look in to the diode.
The system has been on for a year or so already, but always willing to improve.
Will have a look at the wiring diagram for the test facility when I get home.
JBS
THat is an interesting link. Would probably have gone for that if I hadn't already fitted something.
-
Bolts!
Original set up used a row of bolts here, but better results were obtained with the change to composite gaskets if these bolts were left out, as an even clamping force was obtained around the liners without them.
-
Another vote for swivel preload, and bushes here.
Something else to check is that the steering damper is mounted correctly, as they usually have a "this side up" mark on them.
-
Mike
I don't have a link but got it from Alan at Overlandrs in Litherland, as it was his 110 I was fitting it to!
It was from the Allmakes Premium Range, PRC7295.
2 year warrenty.
Also we used a Durite relay this time which only has the four terminals rather than five. ( ie does not have the terminal 87 just the 87A)
Durite part number 0-727-02
Hope this helps
Mike
-
mmgemini
Just to update
I fitted another system on to a friends 300tdi Hi Cap today, and the sender unit was an Allmakes one. This too was either open circuit or <0.6 ohms resistance.
Seems that the aftermarket ones available do not have the internal resistance of the ones you were using.
After my tales of woe, he is more than happy to see the light too!
Wiring his dash we found that the central unused light indicated temperature, possibly for a gearbox??
This is what he decided to go for, and makes more sense than my 24v one!
Mike
Turbo oil return leak.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Are you sure it is the gasket?
I just had a similar issue with the supply hose itself being incorrectly crimped, and allowing the oil to leak down on to the return hose intermittently.