PatM

I noticed this problem after a few years- they really didnt do the job, especially in the lanes down at the inlaws in Cornwall.I tried Nightbreakers and minimal difference. So, I replaced them with 35W HIDs and just removed the kit at MOT time and r-installed it. I did all 4 (it was a 2004 faclift V6 Sport) and the difference was remarkable. I didnt have any objections from other motorists and my wife/kids often saw me out an about (I owned that car for 10 years) I know the soloution isnt legal, but it was far safer being able to see. If you set them properly, they wont annoy cars on the other side of the road. Ive still got the kits fitted to my MGTF which is another poor headlight equipped car. So is the CLK, but differnt fitments.

it could be expensive! I had a Freelander 2 for 10 years - it had 10k when Ibrought it and 43k miles when I sold it/traded it for a RRS. In all that time I paid for servicing with LR for the first 5 years and did the servicing myself until sold- oil, filters every year- brakes, discs, etc. it broke down twice in that time but always got me home. Ones was a wheel speed sensor and the other was coil packs/plugs- yes, it was the thirsty V6! I complain and running my RRS is a lot more expensive as the warantee is 1.3k a year as well as everything else. by you either love the brand or hate it. In bad weather, poroviding you havent brought a basket-case and everything is working- you will feel safe for you and your familiy. ok, Im a fan and dont mind doing the work myself. Some things you cant do due to lack of tools, height, 4wd and weight- but an indy can. They are cheap- FR-1'S go for as little as #1500 but id steer clear of those!!

I brought and fitted 4 HIDs for my Freelander Sport and the difference was amazing- I did the lows first, then the highs. i used to put the old bulbs back at MOT time. Ive tried LEDs on another car I own, but switched back to HIDs on account of the light output being better. Also, some LED kits do not fit due to the fan on the back of them.

ive not got a k-series freelander but the part you are looking for looks like it might be this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Engine-Rail-Hose-Freelander-96-06-Genuine-Land-Rover-PCH116271/382282341120?epid=1315796443&hash=item5901cd9b00:g:LzMAAOSwC-taCcrf

If you have front parking sensors- it will also turn them on while crawling

Misfire on one cylinder is usually lead/plug/pack. Try swapping it and see if the misfire re-occurs on the other bank?

Is it oscillating? Doe the revs go up slight lightly and back down on tick-over? When my MGTF did this (same engine- K-series) it was the pre-cat lamda sensor. Also, an air leak after the throttle-body can cause the ECU to attempt to adjust a lean mixture. The MGTF Crew have loads on K-series engine- google MG FORUMS and go to MG-TF and start browsing.

Ive not got a Freelander but i have an RRS and they are similar in some areas of basic engine management. The solenoid is part of the Turbo- you will see them on Ebay. mine went early this year and apart from the power being down- the engine management light came on with text across my display panel telling me ENGINE SYSTEM FAILURE. LR replaced the turbo complete (warrantee)

Definitely sounds turbo-related- the black smoke for one thing. Also, try it WITHOUT an air filter...just in case! But don't leave it out for too long!

They all seem to be as you have suggested- two words, rather than one- a quick look on Ebay will testify. It could be as innocent as the previous owners changed the letters- my RRS has two words and the colour had faded- but rather than cut them off with a piece of cord- which is the recommended route thats safe to remove them- I've touched them up with a Tamiya silver felt-tip pen! I'm happy with the simple uplift!

Hello- No problem really, but i think yours is a K-Series petrol and the starter motor and solenoid come as one unit. Im sure you can't but one without the other. Whatever you do- take the battery earth OFF first before attempting to remove it (the starter-motor)- its held in place with 3 bolts. There are a couple or small wires and one big one- that goes directly to the battery. id get a reconditioned on from a motor-factors. Phone around first as they can be expensive. If you don't get and exchange one- when the new one is back on the car and you are happy- strip the old one down and find out whats wrong with it. if it was clicking- then its NOT the solenoid or pre-engage mechanism. it will be a dirty commutator or burnt segment- id suggest the former. it will be good practice and you will have a spare if you are successful! Good luck.

Love your enthusiasm for your new car! I had the V6 Sport for 10 years and traded it for an RRS. I couldn't find any of my circle of family/friends who wanted it- and i miss that car. i only covered 35k in all those years- hit had 43k when I traded it- its got about 53k on it now (I look up my old cars as they became a part of me and i knew them back to front) Having said that- in 10 years i had no major issues. 2 sets of tyres, oil and filters each year, that was about it. I had a road-wheel sensor fail- diagnosed this on my OBD2 and replaced it. the water-pump leaked, but that was repaired and i replaced plugs and leads. a bitch on the mighty KV6 die to access to the rear bank. I presume yours is a 1.8k series-engine. Just keep an eye on the coolant level- if it leaks, find out form where- repair and don't leave it- OAT doesn't evaporate! Ive got an MGTF160 as a daily run-around (and my wife uses the RRS). So i know a bit about that engine! General maintenance is whats required and it will be a good car. You asked about dealing with the bumpers?- Ive the same on the underside of the RRS (but the F/Lander was colour-coded). i just apply a bumper gel and do it often. Mind your head getting in and out! if you are below 5'8, its probably not an issue- you will find out sooner or later! Freelanders can consume window-regulators- which are a bit of a git to fit but doable- just take the door panel off and wedge the glass up with some blocks of wood- then read up and do it on a dry-day! I upgraded the lights to HID as we go down to the M-I-Laws in Cornwall and although its not off-road, its steep, tight and dark- HDC used to be tested regularly! Enjoy. If Id had the space, Id never have sold my KV6 as it was perfect and a mechanic from the Dealers brought it (Barretts of Ashford)

I brought a 2nd hand one off ebay for £15 and its done the trick- came out ok and as mines an 04- its the type that's just got the 8mm screwhead- which I soaked in WD40 for a bit, to save snapping the bloody head off. It took a run to calibrate the 'new' one- then all was fine- after clearing the code, off course. Apart from £250 to buy the scanner- as my old one wouldn't scan anything except engine- it was a cheap repair considering what LR would have charged.

Right Gents= Progress. I got home from work and my new Autel 702 arrived in todays post- plugged it in and scanned codes. ''Rear wheel sensor no or low output- LHS.'' Its too wet to start sodding around tonight but I reset the coses and drove the car about 20 yds and 'felt' the ABS kick in momentarily. So before I go buying the wrong sensor- Ill have a look at the weekend. It also might be a missing reluctor- again, too wet to much around tonight!

I have a 04 V6 Auto freelander that Ive only covered 40 k since new. I had the 3 amigos during the summer- that was an easy fix as it was the brake switch- obvious as the switch was arced up and dirty- plus, you can hear the relay operate when its functioning ok as theres a definite clunk down the transmission tunnel when its working.. This one is a bit odd- When I pull away first off, there's a judder from the rear like the ABS is tying to operate- then the noise goes. and it doesn't occur when Im diriving or in traffic, stop/start. But if I turn off the ignition and re-start- there it goes again. And the 3 lights never extinguish. Im guessing a faulty wheel sensor? but any idea how Id diagnose as I don't want to buy 4 just for the sake of getting it right? rgds PatM