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About PatM

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    Maidstone UK
  1. PatM

    Freelander TD4. Money pit, or ???

    it could be expensive! I had a Freelander 2 for 10 years - it had 10k when Ibrought it and 43k miles when I sold it/traded it for a RRS. In all that time I paid for servicing with LR for the first 5 years and did the servicing myself until sold- oil, filters every year- brakes, discs, etc. it broke down twice in that time but always got me home. Ones was a wheel speed sensor and the other was coil packs/plugs- yes, it was the thirsty V6! I complain and running my RRS is a lot more expensive as the warantee is 1.3k a year as well as everything else. by you either love the brand or hate it. In bad weather, poroviding you havent brought a basket-case and everything is working- you will feel safe for you and your familiy. ok, Im a fan and dont mind doing the work myself. Some things you cant do due to lack of tools, height, 4wd and weight- but an indy can. They are cheap- FR-1'S go for as little as #1500 but id steer clear of those!!
  2. PatM


    I brought and fitted 4 HIDs for my Freelander Sport and the difference was amazing- I did the lows first, then the highs. i used to put the old bulbs back at MOT time. Ive tried LEDs on another car I own, but switched back to HIDs on account of the light output being better. Also, some LED kits do not fit due to the fan on the back of them.
  3. ive not got a k-series freelander but the part you are looking for looks like it might be this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Engine-Rail-Hose-Freelander-96-06-Genuine-Land-Rover-PCH116271/382282341120?epid=1315796443&hash=item5901cd9b00:g:LzMAAOSwC-taCcrf
  4. PatM


    If you have front parking sensors- it will also turn them on while crawling
  5. Misfire on one cylinder is usually lead/plug/pack. Try swapping it and see if the misfire re-occurs on the other bank?
  6. Is it oscillating? Doe the revs go up slight lightly and back down on tick-over? When my MGTF did this (same engine- K-series) it was the pre-cat lamda sensor. Also, an air leak after the throttle-body can cause the ECU to attempt to adjust a lean mixture. The MGTF Crew have loads on K-series engine- google MG FORUMS and go to MG-TF and start browsing.
  7. PatM

    Sudden power loss on Freelander SD4

    Ive not got a Freelander but i have an RRS and they are similar in some areas of basic engine management. The solenoid is part of the Turbo- you will see them on Ebay. mine went early this year and apart from the power being down- the engine management light came on with text across my display panel telling me ENGINE SYSTEM FAILURE. LR replaced the turbo complete (warrantee)
  8. PatM

    Running problem

    Definitely sounds turbo-related- the black smoke for one thing. Also, try it WITHOUT an air filter...just in case! But don't leave it out for too long!
  9. PatM

    First Car - First Land Rover

    They all seem to be as you have suggested- two words, rather than one- a quick look on Ebay will testify. It could be as innocent as the previous owners changed the letters- my RRS has two words and the colour had faded- but rather than cut them off with a piece of cord- which is the recommended route thats safe to remove them- I've touched them up with a Tamiya silver felt-tip pen! I'm happy with the simple uplift!
  10. PatM

    First problem....

    Hello- No problem really, but i think yours is a K-Series petrol and the starter motor and solenoid come as one unit. Im sure you can't but one without the other. Whatever you do- take the battery earth OFF first before attempting to remove it (the starter-motor)- its held in place with 3 bolts. There are a couple or small wires and one big one- that goes directly to the battery. id get a reconditioned on from a motor-factors. Phone around first as they can be expensive. If you don't get and exchange one- when the new one is back on the car and you are happy- strip the old one down and find out whats wrong with it. if it was clicking- then its NOT the solenoid or pre-engage mechanism. it will be a dirty commutator or burnt segment- id suggest the former. it will be good practice and you will have a spare if you are successful! Good luck.
  11. PatM

    She's arrived :)

    Love your enthusiasm for your new car! I had the V6 Sport for 10 years and traded it for an RRS. I couldn't find any of my circle of family/friends who wanted it- and i miss that car. i only covered 35k in all those years- hit had 43k when I traded it- its got about 53k on it now (I look up my old cars as they became a part of me and i knew them back to front) Having said that- in 10 years i had no major issues. 2 sets of tyres, oil and filters each year, that was about it. I had a road-wheel sensor fail- diagnosed this on my OBD2 and replaced it. the water-pump leaked, but that was repaired and i replaced plugs and leads. a bitch on the mighty KV6 die to access to the rear bank. I presume yours is a 1.8k series-engine. Just keep an eye on the coolant level- if it leaks, find out form where- repair and don't leave it- OAT doesn't evaporate! Ive got an MGTF160 as a daily run-around (and my wife uses the RRS). So i know a bit about that engine! General maintenance is whats required and it will be a good car. You asked about dealing with the bumpers?- Ive the same on the underside of the RRS (but the F/Lander was colour-coded). i just apply a bumper gel and do it often. Mind your head getting in and out! if you are below 5'8, its probably not an issue- you will find out sooner or later! Freelanders can consume window-regulators- which are a bit of a git to fit but doable- just take the door panel off and wedge the glass up with some blocks of wood- then read up and do it on a dry-day! I upgraded the lights to HID as we go down to the M-I-Laws in Cornwall and although its not off-road, its steep, tight and dark- HDC used to be tested regularly! Enjoy. If Id had the space, Id never have sold my KV6 as it was perfect and a mechanic from the Dealers brought it (Barretts of Ashford)
  12. PatM

    The 3 Amigos!!

    I brought a 2nd hand one off ebay for £15 and its done the trick- came out ok and as mines an 04- its the type that's just got the 8mm screwhead- which I soaked in WD40 for a bit, to save snapping the bloody head off. It took a run to calibrate the 'new' one- then all was fine- after clearing the code, off course. Apart from £250 to buy the scanner- as my old one wouldn't scan anything except engine- it was a cheap repair considering what LR would have charged.
  13. PatM

    The 3 Amigos!!

    Right Gents= Progress. I got home from work and my new Autel 702 arrived in todays post- plugged it in and scanned codes. ''Rear wheel sensor no or low output- LHS.'' Its too wet to start sodding around tonight but I reset the coses and drove the car about 20 yds and 'felt' the ABS kick in momentarily. So before I go buying the wrong sensor- Ill have a look at the weekend. It also might be a missing reluctor- again, too wet to much around tonight!
  14. PatM

    The 3 Amigos!!

    I have a 04 V6 Auto freelander that Ive only covered 40 k since new. I had the 3 amigos during the summer- that was an easy fix as it was the brake switch- obvious as the switch was arced up and dirty- plus, you can hear the relay operate when its functioning ok as theres a definite clunk down the transmission tunnel when its working.. This one is a bit odd- When I pull away first off, there's a judder from the rear like the ABS is tying to operate- then the noise goes. and it doesn't occur when Im diriving or in traffic, stop/start. But if I turn off the ignition and re-start- there it goes again. And the 3 lights never extinguish. Im guessing a faulty wheel sensor? but any idea how Id diagnose as I don't want to buy 4 just for the sake of getting it right? rgds PatM
  15. Well Gents- I seem to have fixed the problem by replacing all the plugs and coil-packs. The car ticks over fine now and is exactly as it behaved last weekend- its just me whos £200 lighter. Plugs were about 1.15mm, so it wasn't them that was the problem- Ive not spent a lot on that car since Ive had it for the last 7 years, so I don't feel too bad. Changing the rear plugs and coils is not fun and like working in the dark as you cannot see them. You have to take meticulous care over the whole matter/ 1. do the front ones- that gives you an idea of whats involved- and do them one at a time, systematically, 8mm bolt out , tease the plug cap/coil out of the deep bore, then unclip the lead. 2. Assemble the 16mm plug spanner that's got a rubber grommet to grip the plug- MAKE SURE THE RUBBER GROMMET CANT COME OFF- otherwise it will be a sod of a job to try to retrieve- especially on the rear ones!! 3. Undo and retrieve the plug 4. New plug in- lower gently and drop into the bore 5. tighten, but not too much 6. Plug coil/cap back in on top of plug- they don't seem to click in place 7. Rotate the coil pack, so as the 8mm hole can been seen 8. Install and tighten the 8mm bolt That's the easy ones done- the front 3 9. Climb onto the front of the car and sit on the front where the bonnet release is 10- forgot to mention- put a rug over the engine- it helps prevent damage and bits stabbing you! 11. By all means try and use a torch and mirror- but in my experience- they were of little use- you have done the front 3, Nos 1,3 and 5. Now you are going to start on No 6- its the hardest one to get to and if its not obvious- its on the NS of the car. 12. feel the coli pack and locate the 8mm retaining bolt. 13. Have aselection of sockets and extension-bars on the front of the car-where you are perched- they will come in handy- as you are going to use 1/4 ratchet and the long extension- its about 5'' to loosen the 8mm bolt- don't use the socket to fully undo it- undo is by hand/fingers- otherwise you will drop it! 14. Twist the plug cap coil cw and acw- be paitient, as it will yield- eventually- 15. Lift out the coil/plug cap and undo the clip/socket with the wires- these are fiddly- you have to move the yellow tabs back and press on the black tab to release them. 16. Drop the plug socket - this time using the 1/2 drive of your socket-set- down into the holes/bore- don't try and push it- and install one 6'' bars into the plug socket and it almost disappears- then install ANOTHER on top- use the 1/2 wrench to losen- then once it turns, remove the wrench and UNDO BY HAND 17. When the plug is obviously out of the head, remove one, then the other 6'' extension- then finally the plug- which if yoy used a decent 16mm plug socket, will be present when you lift the socket from the car. 18. bearing in mind- you are doing this in the dark, so to speak- as you cant see the bore/plug hole- drop a new plug into the bore by feeling it, before you let go the plug! 19. Reverse the process of lowering the socket, then the two extension bars- so as you can get the wrench on top of the final bar and tighten 20. Lower the new coil pack into the bore 21 Now this bits fun and I DID manage to get a mirror to assist- because you have to rotate the coil-pack so as when you insert the 8mm bolt- it goes into the threaded hole. 22. Repeat the process for cylinders 4 and two- they are easier than No6. In fact- for No2, I wasn't perched across the engine with my body rested by my head on the rail-channel that seals the bonnet. This may all read boring, but Im hoping its of some use- as this is a simple task if you could get to and see the coil packs- but you cannot as they are a long way down the back of the engine, so you are working blind. Rgds PatM

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