dooroy

Had the engine out of a 96 300 Tdi 2 yrs ago and would go along with the above - * Dropping the engine having removed the mountings does improve access to top bolts in ring but I think I removed them by using extensions so that ratchet was far enough back to get some range of movement . * Would advise removing rad as it gives a lot more space for forward movement without possibility of damage. * Also found that removing oil filter helped - tended to get caught in steering box when engine was lowered making forward movement difficult . And you do need to lift it quite a bit to get it out over wing or front - and body rises a bit as engine weight comes off it .I had to remove front wheel and let wheel hub almost to the floor to get enough clearance.

When I fitted a recon box a few years back to a 96 Tdi 300 I had the opposite problem - the box was too tight in certain positions . As pinhead says there is adjustment on the box - I used it to get rid of the tight spots and steering was fine after that . But I imagine there would have to be a lot of play in the box to give your symptoms : why did you change the box ? was it leaking ? was steering OK with old box ? I know that my brother's 96 Tdi became almost undrivable due to worn track rod ends and linkages - none of them seemed too bad but the cumulative effect was very 'scary' to put it mildly .

I changed a few hoses in mine last year and they came with new spring clips on them . I fitted them with the new clips but most of the ***** things leaked slightly - even though stubs etc had been in perfect condition.So keep a check for the first few days . Had to remove a few of them and fit worm drive clips instead - no more problems. Cut them off with a hacksaw as otherwise I would have had to remove hoses and go through the bleeding routine again . As regards coolant I did some 'research' and have been using Comma Long Life Coolant for the past 2 yrs or so and no problems . I also used it in my sisters MGF and no problems . I found it was available from the motor factors much cheaper than going to LR - they were charging about €14/15 per litre . Took a while to gather all the info - first time I asked about it in the motor factors they had no idea what I was talking about .

Anti freeze does more than just preventing the water from freezing - it lubricates and prevents corrosion also . I use a 50/50 mix and as far as I can remember that's what LR recommend . Having been charged crazy prices by LR for the proper afreeze I read up a bit and now use Comma Longlife afreeeze which I buy from the motor factors in 5L cans - LR could only supply 1L bottles at something like €14 each .

Had a similar experience a few months back - after a run of about 20 mls I was in a carpark with engine running for a few minutes when I noticed steam coming from under the bonnet . (Had the rad fan removed for the winter .) When I checked I found a sign of coolant around the bleed screw in top hose . Let the engine cool down . Drove home . No problems since . I feel that the pressure built up in the system due to heat after the drive and then parking with engine running and no fan - pressure found a way out . So you could just leave it and see how it goes for a day or two . The thread on bleed screw is very fine - any kind of tape could lead to stripped threads IMHO . And I would avoid using any kind of sealer that goes through the coolant - they often cause more problems than they solve .

Agree with jerboa . When mine started leaking I asked about seals from the local main dlr - was advised they were a waste of time . At that mileage the shafts etc could be marked/worn and new seals will fail soon again . I went the Paddocks route and everything worked out fine . If I was doing it again I would get the recon box with the drop arm attached for the sake of the extra few pounds . The drop arm can be very difficult to remove - I had a 10 ton hydraulic puller and it just about managed it .

Have the 2 sunroofs out of the D2 at present - and it's hard to believe that anyone expected the thin seal between sunroof and vehicle roof to last for any length of time . It was flattened out and useless particularly at the corners . I intend to use Silkaflex between the frame and roof but I also want to reseal 2 of the boxes in the corners of the frame . Why couldn't they have just drilled a hole in the corner for a connection for the drain hose ( all 4 of which were clear ). I was considering using JB weld for this ( my brother had sealed a 10 inch crack on the block of a tractor some months ago with it and its been perfect since )- but on reading the info on the card there is no mention of plastic . And LR in their wisdom have made the boxes out of plastic . Was wondering if anyone has any experience of using JB weld on plastic ? Very few sealers avsailable in this neck of the woods - have asked about some of the ones mentioned here but no joy .

The offside of my 2001 Td5 used to go down at random after I bought it . It had a new nearside bag fitted before I got it so I then fitted a new offside one and no problems after that . My point I suppose is that one airbag can go down while the other remains inflated - and the chances of both going down equally at the same time would IMHO be slim . As others have said even when tested a leaky airbag can be very difficult to pinpoint .

Usually only one airbag develops a leak resulting in one side going down .Random deflation on one side is nearly always caused by an airbag leak - usually where the bag folds over , and sometimes very hard to detect . The cold weather seems to have caused a big increase in the problems being experienced with the SLS - I have actually converted my own 2001 Td5 to coils . The rear began to go completely down at random - sometimes staying up for only a mile . The height sensors are very exposed to the elements and maybe could benefit from a good clean /lubrication . As far as I know there are 2 valves in the compressor for the airbags - one for each . The chances of both valves leaking at the same time would I imagine be slim .More likely to be false readings from the height sensors causing both sides to go down together . I'm sure there will be others along with more experience of this problem .

The belt tensioner could still be the cause of the squeak - in fact the squeak is common on the 300 Tdi engine , often due to a slight misalignment of one or other of the pulleys . I cured 2 by fitting a feeler gauge blade between tensioner and cylinder head . A bit of trial and error but it can work . As regards the coolant leak it would be advisable to sort it ASAP as the 300 Tdi does not take kindly to low coolant due to the high position of the water pump . A slight drop in level can result in no coolant being pumped leading to overheating etc . In the meantime keep a close check on coolant level - by the time the gauge shows a problem it could be too late from the engines point of view . Check all hoses , clips , water pump , P gasket etc

Thanks for replies - will pass on the info .

A friend in the trade has been asked about a 1.8 Freelander - there is quite an amount of coolant getting into the oil . There are very few Freelanders around so he hasn't had much dealings with them . He is wondering if there is any other way for coolant to get into the oil other than a headgasket problem . The Freelander has never overheated and the system is not pressurising - but when he drained the oil there was quite an amount of coolant in it.

The output from any battery is affected by low temps ; but the battery with little to spare will be the one to fail . Many moons ago when I couldn't afford a new battery for my car I used to remove it at night and leave it in the kitchen during very cold weather - car always started ( wouldn't if left in the car overnight ). As regards the 300 Tdi my brother was having problems with his 96 ES failing to start in the cold weather despite having a good new battery . I remembered having read somewhere that the problem could be the stop solenoid on the pump not getting sufficient voltage to open due to the load on the battery . The solenoid circuit suffers voltage drop anyway due to its path . Anyway I suggested to him to run a wire from battery positive to the stop solenoid just for the first start of the day . The Disco started every morning after that .

Try and get some MTF 94 as the ATF is totally unsuitable for manual transmission - and was/is one of the main reasons for the Discovery gearboxes failing regularly . If you go on the Difflock site you can order their EVO 1 or Evo 2 for your Disco - and I can vouch for their effectiveness .May seem a bit expensive but well worth it . It seems LR originally recommended ATF for their gearboxes to disguise the poor synchromesh .

Sorry it was the SRS light that was on - not the ABS . At the time there were a number of people on the forum having the same problem - those fitting the kits sometimes tapped into the SRS system or disturbed it in some way and put the light on . Only the dealer could put it off and when I asked I was told that it was €95 + VAT just to ' plug it in ' . I told them when the problem began so I think they had a good idea it would be a quick fix. Will enquire about this as its clearcut what needs to be done ????????

Last year the ABS light in my brothers 300 Tdi was on following the fitting of a handsfree phone kit . Main dlr wanted €115 approx to sort it .

Just fitted coils to my 2001 Td5 - now have a light on ( which I don't mind ) BUT the beeper sounds once I pass 20 mph and is very annoying to say the least . Don't want to go to main dlr as they can charge what they like - was wondering if there is any way of silencing the beeper ( cut wires etc ????).

Sounds like head gasket ; the early Td5's used plastic dowels between head and block and apparently over time the dowels could fail and allow the head to move and cause a leak . Later engines ( 2001 on or so ) had steel dowels and solved this problem . This could be the problem with your friend's Td5 . What year is this one ?

As bogmonster says the suspension can stay up for days and then go down twice in the space of a few hours . I have had this happen to me in the past and each time a new airbag sorted it completely .

Thanks landkeeper - a few days wait would be no problem . Don't know anyone around here who does gearboxes ; will give jonathan a ring .

Thanks for your replies - will see how 'new' a box I can find . Land Rovers are not that plentiful over here and so SH parts not easily come by . May have to go to NI to get one .

I have a 2001 Td5 with 206K on the clock and the gearbox is becoming a bit noisy . I feel it's the front bearing in the gearbox but due to the high miles I was thinking a SH box would be my best option . When I go looking for a box I would like to know if the D2 box remained the same from 99 when they were introduced up th 04 when the D3 arrived on the scene ? Or even if the D1 box , being an R380 , would fit. Advice greatly appreciated .

Common problem and as you say usually only one side goes down . Most likely a leaking airbag on that side - your warranty should cover it . Initially the deflation can occur randomly ( days apart )but tends to happen more often as time goes on . Often when one starts leaking the other won't be far behind - unless one bag has been changed already .

If the clutch is slipping then you will have to change it - there is no adjustment on the hydraulic system which is basically self adjusting . Any sign of an oil leak from the rear crankshaft seal ? As pointed out also you should get the dual mass flywheel changed as well . I changed my clutch last year but it was the dual mass flywheel that failed - not the clutch .The disc and pressure plate would have done many more thousands of miles . I know there is a test for the flywheel whereby you measure how far one part will rotate relative to the other ; however you would be hoping for another 90K mls from your new pressure plate and disc - but if the flywheel fails before that (highly likely ) it will all have to come out again .