dooroy

OK thanks. Probably best to get a SH motor then. Haven't had any dealings with those motors so was depending on the experience of others - which the forum is ideal for .

Thanks for reply dave - and found some motors on ebay . Just wondering is there any point in opening up the motor - are there contacts etc that could be cleaned up ? Or would it be pointless ? The postage to ROI costs nearly as much as the motor , but thats the usual story .

My sister has a 98 300 Tdi and recently she has reported a problem with the wipers . When she turns them on they work every time - but when she turns them off they decide for themselves when to stop . Sometimes they continue for a few minutes and then stop . She's afraid the problem could reverse itself - and they would only work when it suited them . Any ideas or opinions as to where to look much appreciated . Are switch and motor items that can be repaired ? I have 'googled' wiper problems - but surprisingly came up with very little . Can't even find a price for a front wiper motor either .

The gearbox in my 2001 Td5 with just 220K on the clock has become noisy - when I go into 5th gear there is a definite sound of a rough bearing (most of the time ) . Gear selection etc is fine - no problems at all there. I see Ashcroft sell a set of bearings for the R380 and I was wondering if changing them on a DIY basis is possible? Has anyone experience of this - or is there a possibility of there being shaft wear or other problems also ? Any ideas or opinions greatly appreciated .

The gearbox on my 2001 Td5 has become noisy ( rough bearing ) - especially in 5th . The Disco has 220K on the clock so I'm not surprised . My brother has been offered a 97 D1 300 Tdi FOC - engine gone . Would the gearbox from the D1 fit straight into the D2 - or could there be problems ?

Thanks for reply . And you're right about the 'banging' - the Disco feels very different with only one propshaft .

Removed the front prop from my 2001 Td5 tonight - the middle joint of the double cardan is very notchy ( the one between the 2 universal joints) . Disco wouldn't move then - remembered reading that earlier D2's had difflock but it was not connected. Had a good look and found the 'selector' . Moved it in to difflock ( front flange locked ) and Disco drove OK - but a few lights on . I presume driving like this will cause no further damage - apart from a few lights on ? Any advice welcome .

Thanks for that - might finally get the leak cured . Will give the manifold bolts a good soaking for a few days and may get lucky .

I think the coolant leak is from between exhaust ports 3 and 4 - and rave says there is a water jacket threaded plug there ( whatever that is ). Does anyone know anything about this - is a plug threaded into the head and can it be removed and replaced ? Any help appreciated .

MY 2001 Td5 with 218K on the clock has been losing coolant for a while now . I could see plenty of evidence that the leak was from the oil cooler gasket . Last week I finally got a chance to replace the gasket - it was worn paper thin towards the front of the engine . When I was cleaning off the 'pink stuff' from the block I found that some of it was up around the exhaust manifold - I thought maybe the air flow over the engine was blowing some of it up . However the Disco is still losing coolant and it would appear that it is coming out between head and block . There are no problems with the engine - running fine , no overheating , no mixing of oil and water . Just losing coolant - and I fitted a new pressure cap from LR last week . Has anyone come across this before ? If I take off the head should it be skimmed ? Would it be a good or bad idea to reseat valves while its off ? Any ideas / opnions greatly appreciated .

What kind of hose clips are on those hoses - I have found that the spring type clips can do that , especially after they have been opened a few times . The cap could also be acting up a bit - but have you had any leaks from any other joints ? My Td5 was losing some coolant due to a failing gasket on the oil cooler ( which is not on the Tdi). I found that , with the engine at normal temp , if I loosened the cap until I just heard a faint hiss (escaping pressure) then I could go for a long time without having to top up .

Thanks for that - just assumed it was vacuum . There is only one small bore pipe coming in to the actuator - and the feed to that pipe could be electronically controlled . Will try applying some pressure and see how it goes.

On my 2001 Td5 the unit which operates the wastegate on the turbo seems to be seized solid . I unclipped it from the wastegate lever and while the wastegate was a bit stiff at first it freed out . I presume the actuator rod should move in when vacuum is applied . I used a vacuum pump but there was no movement at all from the rod . At first the rod was completely solid and wouldn't move side to side either . After some work it was possible to move rod a little sideways - but it wouldn't move into the unit under any circumstances . Does this mean the vacuum unit is scrap - and a new one needed ? Any advice appreciated - I only decided to check it out as I was renewing the gasket on the oil cooler .

If you look in the tech section of this forum you will find a post ' Stripping a Disco front hub / swivel replacement ' by Les Henson . As with all of Les's posts very thorough , complete and easy to follow .

The steering damper is much like the shock absorber(damper) fitted to the suspension . As said the resistance should be even throughout its full travel . I have often seen the swivel bearing preloads to be neglected due to the work involved in setting them - and loose swivel bearings can have a very big (bad) effect on the steering . To check them you need to disconnect the track rod ends - and then check how much resistance there is when turning the wheel hub from lock to lock . If the hub swings very freely from lock to lock then the swivels need adjustment . There is a post on how to set swivel preloads somewhere - will try to find it .

As far as I remember the screw expands a plastic fitting to tighten the clip . Once the screw is removed the clip should pull out - a bit of force may be required as the plastic will still be expanded a little , but the clip will pull out .

I replaced the complete clutch in my 2001 Td5 last year myself . I removed the engine rather than the gearbox - but the the dismantling/reassembly would be much the same . Some bolts can be difficult to access - but it can be done. The bracket for the pipe would be very important to hold pipe steady ( could fracture later due to vibration etc ) and of course the bolt itself would be important in helping to clamp bellhousing / engine evenly . The plate between engine and bellhousing is very important in in aligning engine and box - again missing bolts weaken its effect considerably. As K88 said if they broke (unlikely) then they should have been sorted . And when I was unbolting/refitting the gearbox the acoustic cover didn't cause any problems . Could have been forgotten about until box back in place ? IMHO everything should go back that was removed . And there was no form of heat shield on the clutch slave in mine .

Apparently there are a number of possibilities for leaks - that was why I took out the headlining and left it out for 2 months to satisfy myself as to where the leaks were .In my case between the sunroof frame and the vehicle roof . The alpine windows are bonded in the D2 but I suppose they can still leak . Some have also reported a leak from the roof gutter area - the join where the roof meets the rest of the vehicle . Roof bar attachment points not a common source . The roof lining while in place can carry water in all directions and make a leak very difficult to pinpoint .

I took out the headlining first and then you will see a ring of torx headed small bolts (14 I think on each roof ) . When these are removed the inner part of the sunroof (to which there are 2 drain tubes attached ) will drop down . You can then lift the upper part of the sunroof out of the 'hole' in the roof . If I understand you correctly re prising out the plastic part - the answer is no . It is more than a surround - it is part of the sunroof frame . The Tiger seal I got locally - it says Tiger seal on the tube and I think is made by Upol who also produce body filler etc . I had a tube of Silkaflex got for the job but when I went to use it I noticed it had a use by date - which had long passed . There are quite a few threads on sunroofs . Removing the headlining is more fiddly than anything else ; and an extra pair of hands will help - it is large and you don't want to damage it due to it bending across the middle etc . Hope this helps .

When my 300 Tdi steering box began leaking a few years ago I went to the main dlr for seals . The guy in the store advised me it was a waste of time - he reckoned I would be lucky if the repair lasted 6 mths . So I got a recon from Paddocks and all fine since . If I was getting another one I would get it with drop arm attached .I just about got the drop arm off with a 10 ton hydraulic puller ; and have been reading posts since where people are having major problems trying to remove drop arm

Don't know if yours has a high level brake light or heated rear window . If it has either be careful the wires don't get trapped under one of the hinges and cause problems later . A friend's 98 300 Tdi started having problems with blowing fuses and eventuallly the wires from the body into the rear door melted . When I investigated I found the wires squashed between door and hinge . Trouble was the hinge had been replaced 3 months earlier - when I asked him at first had any work been carried out in that area he said no; he had forgotten about the hinge change .

I took out the 2 sunroofs from my 2001 Td5 and I found that while LR had obviously fitted some form of 'gasket' between sunroof frame and vehicle roof it had long ago become ineffective . It had been squashed flat and was now below the little ridge running round the outer edge of the sunroof frame. This meant that the egde of the sunroof frame was contacting the roof and therefore that was the only seal you had. The seal was paper thin by now . I put a bead of Tiger seal around each one and refitted and have had no leaks since. I also read up quite a few posts before I did anything - and a few apparently solved their leaking roof problem by running a bead of sealer around each roof , having cleaned out the join well etc . And having had the roofs out I can see how this could work . I took out the headlining last Oct but only removed and sealed the roofs last month - and put back the headlining .

I removed that unit from my sisters 98 300 Tdi last year . There are 3 wires going into it . Took me quite a while - but got it done without removing pump etc . One of the 3 wires becomes live when you switch on the ignition , so I connected that one up to the stop solenoid . Disco has been fine since .

Just a thought - does the Disco be empty when parked up or does there be weight left in the boot. I had to change one airbag on mine - for a while before this happened I noticed that if weight was placed in the boot with engine off that side would go down quite quickly sometimes . If it takes yours a week to go down fully then the leak is very small - and would be difficult to detect . Do you know how long the airbags have been there ? I see quite a few now who change both airbags after 5 yrs - a leak , even a small one , causes the compressor to work harder and it can then fail adding to the eventual repair cost .

You say you are using the Discovery regularly and it drops down fully after about a week . Does this mean it drops a little every day - regardless of usage ? I think it's very rarely both bags would go down equally - but I suppose it can happen . You could try testing the bags e.g. spraying them with soapy water and watching out for bubbles . But if they take a week to go down such a small leak could be very difficult to spot . Leaks tend to happen where the bag folds over at the bottom - so you would need to have the bags fully extended to do a proper check . If both sides go down the same amount at the same time it could indicate a leak at the compressor - you could possibly spray some soapy water over the compressor and watch for bubbles . I have a 2001 td5 which I converted to springs last Feb - the rear end began to go down to the bump stops at random - so I decided that I had enough of the air suspension .