Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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I had exactly the same problem only HID wants a new horse not a house, she has relented though, we have the car, and I keep banging the drum "when the car is finished you can have your horse darling", so far so good, when is the car ever finished? LOL
Mind you, since she has relented the most leg I've seen has been in a bucket of KFC!!!!
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Don't know how it works there but some cars are built in one year but not dispatched/sold/ registered until into the next year.
My 1992 D1 is from 1992 but was not registered until 1993, it was built in October in Solihull but by the time it reached Belgium and its first owner it was not registered until late January 1993 , and was sold as a 1993 model!!! Even though original papers state built in 1992!!!
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TBH I found all wiring to be present and correct on my wiring harnesses, they tended to make one size fits all then fit trim pannelling to suit, you got a poverty spec by the sounds of it?
just pop the trim off and have a looksee best way they only fitted rubbish 4" speakers as standard though!
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For just over two hours 10 mins I have read my way through this entire thread, it took two years to re-build and fit!!!!
You have my uttermost respect!!!!
I actually feel guilty as on Saturday I sold on the 3.9V8 with it's ZFbox and LT230 Transfercase, been gutting the Disco out in readiness for it's diesel replacement, shame on me but external forces at play and keeping the RHD D1 was not really an option anymore so it had to go.
Next one dans arrive`
Top work, MIG first, TIG is not so easy I know from my past attempts but it is fun!!
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Looks like OBA is only way forward and seems as though by doing it that way round I gain other benefits too.
Ashlocker it is, think thats Christmas prezzie taken care of and it means that everything is there for the front if I want to do it later on.
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how old is it?
My 300Tdi series Disco had them but the new second had 200Tdi does not, not close to it to tell you if wiring is there but it may have only been an addition from 94>?
Sure someone will correct me.
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What is wrong with good old fashioned "Waxoyl"?
After I did all the repairs on the series bulkhead in 2002 it had all cavities done with clear waxoyl and the new foot well were anti stone chip painted and then black wax oyled under whole car.
If it is only a choice between the two then Dinitrol
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I have just found it in a copy of LRO and quote "we already had the 2.4 VM Italian turbo diesel to go in if the engineers had not got the 200Tdi ready in time"
So deffo not anything more than a home grown prototype just to see if it would work?
LR (australia) used Isuzu engines in their australian market 110's and army vehicles. Who knows, some smart engineer at LR might had a brainwave and realized a Nissan engine would have been a far better powerplant than what LR had to offer
I drove an Isuzu 3.1 Tdi powered RRC, wish they had slipped something in like that, was a beauty, plenty torque and pull was amazing!!!
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One thing to remember, especially in Africa where vehicle recovery is difficult and very expensive, is that if your ABS stops working for any reason, so does your TC and HDC. The HDC doesn't matter much, but if you have no diff lock and no TC you are in one-wheel drive which won't get you far in the deep sand of eg. Botswana. And from my experience with other's vehicles, the ABS is not very reliable. And the reasons for it to stop working are many, some of which might be fixable at the side of the road (belt the sensors with a hammer) and others require spare parts that you would be unlikely to be carrying with you.
I like the GFs fix for this one, fit a centre diff and put locking diffs on it, all problems solved, women hey!!!
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Personally doubt it, more like it was an amazing ploy to get some poor soul into parting with a lot more money thinking he was buying automotive history not just another rusty Disco.
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I got caught out big time, did the insurance bit when I was test driving a BMW 323 and got a pull, turns out it had no MOT!!!
My mistake, didn't check took it at the guys word it had approx 6mnths left on it and hey presto 6points and a £550 fine, turned out to be an expensive car in the end but it was so nice to drive, made more than my fine when I sold it on so no loss there but insurance premiums took a whack for the 6 points!!! came off a few months ago thank the gods.
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An Aluminium Gear Knob? Nice mixture of cutting curves, a taper, a thread (M10) and parting off as well as drilling, facing & possibly boring. It covers most of what you will ever do on a Lathe.
When they send you on the Milling course - you can engrave the H pattern and lettering on the top!
Or, taking it a bit further, you could bore out the middle from the face with the lettering. Then make a perspex plug which pushes into the void against a shoulder. Fit an LED in the void and stick a label showing the H pattern to the underside of the perspex plug. Then you could have an Illuminated Aluminium Gear Knob! You would have to run the wires down the gearstick - but that's not the end of the world. You could sleeve it with heat-shrink tubing.
You could use an incandecent bulb - then it would heat the knob too!
Si
I will expect to see this as one of the future products offered by Xeng
smart drawing too -
Sorry no link as it is at a local electrical wholesalers just down the road from me, I have seen them cheaper but usually they are advertised excluding the BTW and then you slap another 21% on it goes up a long way not to mention it's either diesel getting it or over 12K parcel delivery, again more costs.
I may have forgotten to mention this machine will come practically ready to plug in and play, it comes with the argoshield mid size industrial bottle(think they give that to Hasselt postcodes to encourage them to go back for gas and you know how it goes, oh some tips and a....), also thrown in is an auto dimming welding helmet.
I did also like this one too http://www.lasexpert.nl/MIG180 300euroexcBTW so +19% as it's in Holland and then add a regulator, gas and auto dimming helmet, spool of wire and before you know it almost same price and I would have to go to Holland to get it or pay to have it shipped,(works van so diesel's free to me).
I don't want a plasma cutter but some folk rave about them for some reason?
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Is 60% duty cycle @120 A enough for general use?
This machine is priced at 550euro, if I want a bit more duty the price goes up considerably!!! for just 80%duty @120A is 990euro!!! double the price nearly and for not such a significant gain!!!
Not looking to set up my own fabbing shop just weld up my rust bucket LOL
And plasma cutters, long term investment or just a gimmick?
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76977
Will this be a better and cheaper? way to supply air to the locker?
Seems that budget constraints may allow locker but bit too tight to accommodate another 200euro on a 12V compressor and all ancillaries to go with it!!
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I bow down to your superior knowledge!!!!Er "non"
Fit locker in the rear, ATB in the front if you have to
Your better off having a Locking diff vs a ATB diff, Forget ARBs as said above go Ashlocker
off road the rear works harder than the front, you'll gain more by sorting the rear out
1 x Ashlocker in the back will transform the off road abilities, adding an extar one at the front improves again but nowhere near as much as you would expect
2 x Lockers is NOT 2 x as good.
ATB is I have to say a waste vs a few more pennies for a Ashlocker
Do the back 1st, save for the front, even for a simple 4 pin unit which is stong and cheap vs ATB or a 2nd Locker
Nige
Seems my thinking was backwards, Ashlocker in the back first and then front ATB if necessary? You explained it well enough, just gotta do a few more calculations then to see if it is realistically within budget constraints?
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want to fit ashcroft ATB in the back axle and maybe fit air locker on the front later on if necessary, but they think I'm mad and should just blow most of my budget on air front and back straight off, but like I say money is an issue with all the other things I want to do to it.
Is it better both air or just as good my way ATB back and maybe air front?
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I am doing up my new 20yr old D1 200Tdi.
I want to fit an ATB diff in the back for now as I can't really justify the complete outlay for the ARB air locker on top of well best part of 2000-2500euros on repairs and general upgrades to make a nice truck of it,and lest I say that it was not a free gift either so I will be sinking 5K into a 20yr old car.
Couple of folk think I am barking mad and should just spend, spend, spend, lockers front and rear and blah, blah, blah, but I ain't made of money, it's tight enough as it is.
But what do a wider audience think of my plan to fit the ATB in the back axle and in time "IF" I deem necessary then fit an air locking diff in the front.
TBH this way round kind of makes more sense to me as the back will look after itself and if fitted I can choose whether or not to lock the front.
Answers on a postcard guys.
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I am doing up my new 20yr old D1 200Tdi.
I want to fit an ATB diff in the back for now as I can't really justify the complete outlay for the ARB air locker on top of well best part of 2000-2500euros on repairs and general upgrades to make a nice truck of it.
Couple of folk think I am barking mad and should just spend, spend, spend, lockers front and rear and blah, blah, blah, but I ain't made of money, it's tight enough as it is.
But what do a wider audience think of my plan to fit the ATB in the back axle and in time "IF" I deem necessary then fit an air locking diff in the front.
TBH this way round kind of makes more sense to me as the back will look after itself and if fitted I can choose whether or not to lock the front.
Answers on a postcard guys.
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Sorted it i think ??? it was the rubber seal thingy that the wires go through the bulkhead water was coming in through there, sealed it up yesterday looked at it tonight and water was being held at the bulkhead and footwell was dry
)Have got same thing, thanks for posting your solution
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Hi Coachman did you do the work yourself in the end or did you let someone else do it for you I hope you still have the Disco I bought one back in June this year & it had a few problems with rust but it's all done now see here http://smg.photobuck...Disco Photos 1/ the new boot floor was the last bit to go in but caused me a few problems, the biggest one being I had a heart attack just as I finished it. I still need to sort out a few bits like the sagging headlining & a few other ods & ends then it's MOT time
Nice work there Jim, looks very good, not wanting to pick but it looks like you bolted the rear floor down? Just hope lady luck is with you at MOT, I had a previous Disco and the MOT tester did pass her but he also made the comment "the rear floors were spot welded into the Discovery, a replacement should not be fixed by any other means", just meant I had to take it home rather pee'd off as it originally came home with 6 months test left on it when we got it, and then set about welding it along its edged where it meets the rest of the shell, ho hum.
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I personally had originally planned to go spacer route as its removable, but Belgian MOT is different and wont allow it to be lifted, but can get away with conservative stuff just not OTT, so proper springs not just spacers for me.
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I have been considering exactly the same thing,
As Landy-Novice says, you dont need to lift it unless you want to fit taller/wider tyres, I actually ran 235/85/16s on standard suspension with just a camel cut on the back and the only issue is the front tyres catching the radius arms on full lock but thats down to the offset of my wheels not suspension. Think about it before you commit to a lift kit.
I want to run 235/85 and have been lead to believe the only way to do it would run a +2" lift!! The new one is on standard and more than likely original 20yr old springs but the 3.9 D1 I just stripped out ran +1" when I got it and with a trial fit of a 235 seemed to foul everywhere!!
New suspension and bushings throughout but REALLY don't want to waste money on std height springs only to need to change them again to accommodate the 235/85s!!!
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Better to run it to the fuse box I would have thought, live in there under steering wheel and you can have it fuse protected, also handy for going on to ignition switching feed too, just my opinion.
But not doing it that way round myself, higher power head unit and 6X9s will be a lot better at the back compared with those 4.5" things, tight squeeze butt will probably fit a spacer between speakers and facia to keep it tidy, they do thick PU sheeting in hardware shops that cuts easy with a jigsaw.
Be careful playing in the electriccery boxes, and running extra cables direct from batteries, recipe for disaster!!!
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from serp to Vee belt?
in International Forum
Posted
Is it possible to change an airco compressor from serp flat belt to Vee belt without a lot of hassle with the electro clutch?