Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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How many meters of pipe did you need? I may consider doing this as a precaution on Rusty as I don't need hassles later on when he is on the road.
I would tend to keep the sedimenter as it is the first line of defense for the fuel system, it amazes me how much water and dirt we get in the fuel here!! My works van had to have a new Injection pump as it was corroded internally and it has 50,000 miles on it!!!
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Well a 45 minute run up of the brazed radiator was long enough to get up to running temp and a little drive around the yard to show me how bad the suspension is in need of replacement saw the radiator leak free and the needle on the temp gauge never got quite to the half way mark so I am happy with that
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Can you not try and get a non-PAS belt? Then you can skip the pulley and drive with manual steering for a while until you can fix it?
Oh it was not to drive it around, I wanted to test my first attempt at brazing a radiator but had to run the engine up to temperature and pressure to see if it leaked or not, it is leak free and brazing is holding up for now so job is a good'un,
The only problem there is that a Disco 200Tdi runs crank, water pump and P/S pump on primary belt and alternator is off the P/S pump pulley so no goer there, only got through 3 and a half litres in the 45 minute trial so not too bad but at 50+ euro for 5 litres it has cost me 35 euros to test it!!!
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I believe VulcanBomber has them on his 110 and swears by them.
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Discovery 200Tdi, I have refitted my newly brazed radiator for now but will wait until I can get to the auto factors in the day to get another 5 litres, but at 50+ euro this is gonna be expensive to run it up and find out if it leaks
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Unable to get more ATF until tomorrow and the way the steering box chucks it out 5 litres won't last long!!! I got 25 Litres of Engine oils and high spin 46 too, thats why I was asking.
Removing drive belt not possible as it's on a 200Tdi and crank pulley water pump and P/S pump on that belt, don't want to cook the engine either!!
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My power steering box is knackered but I need to run the engine up to working temp today, I do not want to kill my power steering pump however!!
Could I just put engine oil in the bottle just for the purpose of running it up without killing the little pump?
Any help greatly recieved.
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Last weekend my good friend Paul tramped over so I could sort out his leaky timing chest on his 200Tdi Disco.
Unfortunately one of us had a slip and we made a small puncture in one of the water tubes in the rad, Paul living in Germany and needing to be back Sunday night saw us rape Rusty of his radiator to get Paul mobile again, So in the mean time I went looking for a re-core for the rad, 210 euro to 280 euro for re-core of a 200Tdi radiator!!!!
So I got busy and went from this
Using some of these
and this is the result
Testing tomorrow on Rusty to see it is pressure tested to running temp and if it's good then it cost me 12 euro for 1.2mm ally brazing rods and a sniff of gas for the blowtorch.
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Furthermore, for Category C and D write-offs (where it is a case of not being financially viable for your insurance company rather than a safety issues as per A/B) where a third party is at fault the financial calculation is irrelevant. Your claim is against the third party and his/her insurance, so your insurer cannot turn around and say "it's not economically repairable". Economy does not come into it, the third party is obliged to pay for it
I also remembered this from an accident I had years ago, if it is not your fault do not under any circumstances involve your own insurer!!!!
Here's why, my 1998 Ford Fiesta was written off by a hoon in a Clio his fault but my insurer deemed it a write off for a wing a door skin a mirror and a new head light assembly, turns out we both had the same underwriter for the insurance and it was cheaper to write mine off than have the damage repaired even though it was not my fault, I have never made the same mistake again!!!
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Good lord, this started out as power steering box seals and look at it now!!! I will just get me a new steering box, seems a safer plan.
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The third part is obliged to restore you to a point before the incident, which basically means they have to pay to have your vehicle repaired. If that costs £8,500 then so be it! Don't let yourself be out of pocket because of this, you shouldn't have to pay a penny towards repairing your car.
If you let them write it off and then buy it back you'll need to make sure you get enough of a payout to put it back together. Otherwise you're out of pocket.
It's not about taking anyone to the cleaners or falsely claiming anything, you just deserve to be righted for the wrong!
This is more how meant it to come across, no I do not condone any fictitious claims, I do not want to see yet another owner of a highly modded and loved Landy get his car written off just because a lot of people can not drive, and as it is only a cat "C" then they should be "MADE" to put it back to a condition that is at the very least the same as before the accident.
A guy on another forum has just had his Disco written off and all it needs is a new bloody door and decals!!!
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Si is doing it too... one heck of alot cheaper!
Mike you can be my friend
, and SimonR you can expect an order to be shipped to Belgium very shortly -
My god I hope you really are fine!!!
I agree with having the roll cage on a Defender though! Take them to the cleaners if you can, it takes a lot of work to build a rig like that and then for it to be gone and getting very little in the way of compensation.
Hope you get it sorted in your favour.
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Why not just cut it out and weld in new metal?
It will only come back to haunt you and probably when you need it to the least!!!
If you are good and patient with your welder then you could put a nice seamless patch in there and no body would ever know, stops a future head ache too.
Some will say just prime it and use epoxy filler and paint it but whats the point? Might as well do it properly to begin with.
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holy cow it bent where the bolts were tightened up on it LOL
More substantial than what would normally be there but H/D not in this lifetime!!!!
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There are a lot of hardware shops that do the rubber on a roll, my local does a variety of thicknesses from 2mm flat to a heavy 5mm ribbed, they have a nice 3 bar tread in 3mm that I am looking to buy for Rusty when the grotty carpet comes out.
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To be honest you may as well use a cable tie instead as there are plenty of ways to release a handbrake without removing the lock...... or if it's the drum brake version you may as well just drive off without releasing it anyway!
One of the most pointless security devices around.
We should have a little competition.... how many ways does this fail?
Fail!!!!
Found this though, liked it a lot.
http://www.mudstuff....Meck_Lock.shtml
I had heard that it is happily used to lock the brakes on cars in Italy but not sanctioned in the UK, here we'd get publicly hung for it!!!!
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Does anyone know these Compomotive alloys?
they are 7X15
I am looking for another one.
Any help appreciated.
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Just out of curiosity did anyone else happen to notice the very small spare in the back? second from last photo, must be a space saver but with a bed like that I can't see why?
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curious for this too as Rusty needs a new battery, was thinking of a dry cell battery but it is a bit(ok a lot) dearer but I don't know if it is worth the investment?
Used Optima red top batteries on some heavy plant with good results but have not found them here as yet and they have never heard of them either.
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I am not sure what the hell that is exactly, it is a toyota hilux but with looks like RRS bonnet and headlights, what a no no...
The P38 P/up is actually quite cool ya know, ok not to everyones taste but hey looks sweet to me.
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Yeah sorry forgot to mention it was a serp 3.9
but was also thinking you would be serp with it being a 4.6?Could you post some pics as I am not sure what I would be looking at if not a serp 4.6?
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The panels are screwed and bonded with some sort of mastic, whoore of a job and a massive ammount of patients required not to bend them as you pull them apart!!! Make sure you have a retractable box knife with the disposable break off blades so you can slit your way between the panels.
Forgot, it helps to remove the rear bumper.
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Has anyone managed to any degree of success to reseal a leaking power steering box?
My problem is with a LHD power steering box on a 1992 Discovery, it is running out from the shaft that attaches to the drop arm, so far 450 euro and prices over and a good way above have been quoted but I am not shy of spending the money, just more curious as to whether I could affect a remedy myself?
Any help greatly received.
but was also thinking you would be serp with it being a 4.6?
Braze repair to a radiator
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
No they were very soft 1.2mm ally rods, flux was just ordinary solder flux I've had for repairing the burnt out wiring on Rusty.
On mulling this over with a few other bods I was told I could have just cut the damaged tube and pinched the ends and folded them over and pinched flat again in an emergency, but not my style that.....