Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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Blimey, busy oldlife you got yourself there!!!!
I wish you the best for the wife and new baby when it arrives, and you will love Ireland, I wish I'd never left....... Just watch out for the cops,they can be a little bit over zealous at times!!!
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depends if they are 10 or 24 spline. Went to swap the front stubs from my disco (24 spline) to our comp RRC (10 spline) to fit ashcroft CV's, shafts and locker we found that we ended up having to change all of the internals (stubs, CV's, Drive shafts and diff) on the front and the rears have an oil seal on the shaft with a 24 spline axle.
So by this comment then can I assume that the 1992 200Tdi will be 10 spllined and the 1998 V8 will be 24?
Would 24 splines be a lot better to fit or just a lot of effort for not a big improvement?
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Erm, they are spiral bevel gears, in standard long nose type rover casings they are all manufactured in a rear directional configuration ie designed to go in a rear axle and drive the vehicle forwards. The diff in the front of one of these vehicles is driving the wrong direction from factory. Only the 4.6 p38 came with reverse cut gears in the front.
Thanks for that, I never really gave it a thought and just assumed that it would be a reverse cut R&P set,just this post made me ask the silly question.
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Thought it was the LR aircon one?
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This bit did not spring to mind until just now, but can I not strip out the shafts and drive members from my V8 axles and fit them in to the axle casings of the diesel? I have both axles just sitting there......
Any ideas?
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Yes you can use it! And it'll work fine with the 200 prop. You 'may get a little whine for 500 - 1000 miles or so as the crown wheel and pinion bed in to drive the opposite direction to which they've been used previously, but this is nothing to worry about. Steve
Are the ring and pinions bevel and not spiral? I thought too much drive in the wrong direction of a spiral R&P was bad? Please correct if wrong?
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I would however add that filling the filter with fuel is not good practice - you end up with unfiltered fuel on both sides of the filter... Pump fuel is not very clean and the fuel equipment on modern diesels works to very fine tolerances.The slightest particle of dirt can and will block injector nozzle holes resulting in lost power - or cause undue wear in the unit injector itself.
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I tend to agree but I am sure there is somebody picky enough to suggest putting it through a coffee filter so it is as clean as possible?
Good trick that though and will log the purge cycling into memory for the eventuality that might occur one day.....
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Looking at the pics, The studs look short to take alli wheels. Is there a chisel mark or a "V" on the ends of the studs ?
Small "v" in the end of all studs Mike, I did think they looked short too but they are all manufactured that length and the steel spare on the back axle with normal steel wheel nuts on does not have too much stud sticking out nor too little so they seem right......
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truck now for sale (boot and all) in the trading post. ebay later this week if no interest here.
sorry to hear the boot knocked you for 6, jim. that's a tidy looking job. wishing you aspeedy recovery.
Oh no, don't give up on it for a little bit of rust, it is not big a job to fit the boot floor!!!
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Wheel spacers is the easy option, you have the same problem when fitting alloys to a drum braked defender.
You could swap halfshafts in the rear quite easily. But the front axle your going to have to swap CV's aswell.
You could just swap the axles off your later model V8 discovery.
I did want to do that, rear axle is a straight swap but front axle is a swine as new one is LHD and old one is RHD so steering box and location on hub on different sides!!!
Spacer idea might be worth a look though as wider track would help and these wheels always did sit inside the arches of the V8 to much for my liking, we shall see though as costs will dictate, may still be cheaper to buy the two new Grabber AT2s than a set of spacers!!!
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I wanted to fit the nice silver alloys from my old V8 Disco onto my project 200 Tdi Disco, but they don't fit!!!
It seems the drive flanges are too long and the bolt heads are catching the inside of the wheel when offered up, some pics to show what I mean.
These are the L/R alloys I wanted to fit.
But the inside of where the hub sits is tapered inward and catches the drive flange bolts.
I have not yet had a chance to look at the V8 flanges but I do not remember them being so big as these ones!!!
Any help greatly appreciated.
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Holy f**k did you by any chance happen to know about the infestation of tin worm in there when you bought it?
You got a really rough deal on that one!!! I on the other hand have less welding to do but a lot more refurbishment of the interior, I bid you the best of luck and I bid your wife a whole truck load more of understanding when it comes to men and their Land Rovers LOL.
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Not far off the mark, sadly a hell of a lot of D1 body panels are no longer available, or where they are available, they are prohibitively expensive. Therefore fabrication is the way. what has taken up too much time is undoing very shoddy bodges.
I know exactly what you are saying there!! My Rusty is 20 yrs old and there has been some very interesting things done in the last few years to keep him on the road but all I can say is that for the time and effort taken to do the bodging they could have actually done it properly!!! I don't like the bodge it and scarper methods at all!!!
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79562
See here and you will know exactly what I mean.....
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Well done Les, my new hero.
Will be very useful in the next few months.
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VOSA for me, I am not saying I would want to get a garage in trouble but moody MOT's are still more common than you might think!!! I do not want to think about the consequences of an accident in that if it were to happen, and in any event, from that picture I would say they would be looking at the test station anyway as it is easy to see that that has been rotting away like that for a couple of years!!!
That was MOTd in the summer and if it had been bodged with filler it would still have been poked and prodded by the tester, I know all of my weld repairs were always scrutinized by my MOT man, he did my fleet of 4 cars every year.
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I used to live in Ipswich and the local town radio station SGR used to have vehicle stickers that listners could pick up from the desk literally asking for the vehicle with the sticker in the window to be stopped as a deterent to car thefts as it was an invitation to be pulled if outside of normal hours or suspiciously driven, I had one in the back window of a S/H car I bought and it was nice to know they really did stop cars with the stickers in.
The police are generally a nice bunch and have a job to do, and the fact that we drive the most sought after types of vehicles that can be easily stripped and sold for spares in a matter of hours I am only to happy to co-operate with them, the cops here in Belgium, could not give a rats a55 about almost anything unless it involves slapping an on the spot fine on you end of.
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OMG that Dihatsu is the worst example of very nice custom work since London Chop Shop!!!
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Funny thing I noticed from the graphs is that the site is particularly busy in the month of October, wonder why?
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When I was looking at buying series motor to do-up disc brakes were on my list of upgrades, I found these in the Netherlands
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/parts/dicsbrks/disc.htm
I went to see the factory as I was in that area for the day and they really know there stuff.
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I think it was his gift to his beloved Land Rover for valentines day haha
would be a must have for an Evoque in pink I would say?
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30 amps is normal rating for electric fans on cars, best to keep as few joins in the wiring as this often results in a higher power consumption and often over loads the fuse on start up.
My old RRC had a leccy one from something, it had no less than 5 different varieties of cable from battery to switch and then to fan and earth, no relay and actually no fuse!!!
Cowboy sparkies I tell ya!!
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I like the rear window panel, quite nicely done but could be better with T/cab rear quarter lights in there though, nicely done in one piece too, hate the rest of it though, maybe it should have kept the KL71s as they looked a little more macho and a space saver spare and a tonneau cover for the buck and I really think the rear end was an after thought, more like, "we ran out of money so less is more right?"
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Just pump up the coolent system with a bike pump...?
WOW a guy who really thinks outside the box!!! And I mean that in a good way too LOL
Could have saved me a few euro in diesel and oil that little gem, will log in memory and save for future reference, it did not enter my head to do that at all!!!
but what sort of pressure should the coolant system run at?
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We have recently used some HTS2000 ally brazing rods with which some amazing repair feats can be achieved with propane or oxy heat sources. Certainly gives the TIG a run for its money on some jobs
http://www.aluminiumrods.co.uk/
The videos are impressive. I thought it was a bit snake oily until or rods arrived and we tried a few out
They are the same as an American brand called Allumalloy, and exactly the same thing I bought from Welco in my Specialist hardware store, they did just the job with the propane blow lamp.
I am looking to learn gas welding shortly and to a profficient standard, I did a little practice TIG work when I had my small inverter, and the only thing I did not like was the sharpening of the tips from scratch starting, I had no tuition but managed ok for the small bits I did with it, but I will invest in a much more efficient and powerful inverter before I take it up again, after 4+ years without a mig set of my own I am almost starting from scratch with welding again, not so happy about that but it comes good in the end.
Cooler/radiator options, ideas appreciated
in International Forum
Posted
Ok 450mm wide but how tall? and how deep can it be also?
I know there are some small plant out there with compact radiators, narrow and short but very deep!!!