Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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I was under it again tonight whilst welding the chassis back together and noticed the body mount bushes are almost flat at the mount at the back of the sills and the rest on closer inspection are not looking so clever either....
What will be the best way to change these?
Am I going to have to undo them all and jack the body up one side at a time to do them all or is there enough "flex" to jack at the mount to change them?
I know it will never be RR comfy but every little bit helps...
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With the youngest of the 300Tdi now turning 15yrs old there will be very few that do not have or need welding, much of it comes down to whether or not the previous owners loved them, two years ago I was under a 1993 200Tdi and there was not a spec of rust anywhere on it, it had been rust proofed by Before and After from almost new, 20 yrs old almost, but when I broke my V8 from 1998 it had rot through out the inner wings, floors, sills and along the sides of the boot floor, all areas common to rot out, chassis is mint though, still got that for a future project......
Buy the best one you can, look at as many as you can too, if it is not as perfect as you want walk away, save some more and see a few more until you find what you are looking for, with so many out there it really is a buyers market!!!
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I hope you can add a few more possibilities for a D1 of 1998 vintage too....
I have my rolling chassis sitting out in the yard and there is no vin on the chassis on the front legs nor the rear and neither is there anything to suggest any welding or repairs have taken place!!!
To say am miffed is understatement!!!
If it had been fitted with a replacement at some point in time would they have stamped it on there or not?
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I know but can'tfind that particular video on the tube....
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Couldn't help my self found this for ya
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Good price that, for the uprated one too, will se how long my brazed radiator holds out for and if and when it does go get it re-cored then.
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What you paying for your re-core Reb?
I was quoted 210euro for re-core of a 200Tdi rad!!!
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Yesterday I posted on the Ebay Chassis with no ID thread only to be confronted with the theft of a neighbors Defender.
I posted this on another forum but will share with you guys as well, I am touched by this as it has happened to a friend and a good guy at that, a sobering wake up for me but it confirms my anguish at how valuable our cars are and not just to us.
As I write this I am thinking of a neighbor who is absolutely livid at the theft of his Defender in the early hours of this morning.
I have been looking into security devices to try and keep my own car safe from theft and have even posted thread about things I have found suitable viewtopic.php?f=2&t=85401&p=735412&hilit=security#p735412 , but it has struck closer to home this time and I am a little more nervous about the security of my car and how I can stop it from happening to me.
I have seen countless threads on here and elsewhere about stolen cars, wheels and accessories that we customize them with, one such caught my attention last night, a 300Tdi Defender 90 rolling chassis complete with axles, wheels and very good tyres and in excellent condition, but with NO ID!!!
Alarm bells anyone? But after being told about the theft in the night I have been thinking about this all morning and by posting this I am hoping I will reach out to others who might not think about their own cars safety!!I have been looking through Ebay and other internet sales sites for spares and parts generally for my car, and it amazes me that there are so many sellers who cannot give full detailed descriptions of their parts or when contacting them they have little knowledge or an un sound or questionable reason for selling.
How many of us are more concerned about the price of the part than where it actually originated from? I am always keen on prices but also of late I am also looking to seek genuine items offered from genuine sources, is it this lowest price and less about origin mentality that is making it such a lucrative racket for stealing our cars only to break them and sell them for parts? Maybe, but I know that there would be a lot that are cheapo buyers that would soon be howling on here when their car is nicked!!!
I don't know of anything that is a best solution, only to take as many precautions as we can to secure our cars.
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Genuinely they are an ok firm to use, I never had any issues save for a wrongly sent water pump, but other than that
When I lived in the UK it was a choice of 4, Mansfield 4x4 (my local independent), Paddocks, Craddocks or Rimmer Bros.
Almost no problems with parts quality or delivery issues for the 10+ years I used all of them.
I even had a soft spot for JSF 4x4 in Norwich as worked that way a lot....
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I was looking for a project in the summer and happened upon a 130 that was accident damaged, front impact that was quite severe!!! But apart from needing the front panels and a new engine and gearbox the rest of it was all there so I went to see it and walked away as soon as I saw how bad it was, I took the chassis number and spoke with a friend who is a policeman and he made a few inquiries into it and it was supposed to have been destroyed in February 2012, I showed him the original listing for it and he went to see the seller with some colleagues, and luckily for me I am not directly involved in the now ensuing prosecution of around 12 individuals and 3 companies for the selling of goods meant for disposal, the practice is so common here but it definitely is not accepted, so many of the parts are sold through the internet and often in to other countries where it's origination will never be known.
I cannot find it now but I did report a RHD white and blue striped liveried 90 that was for sale on the German Ebay, very suspicious as it had no papers and had already had the engine and drive train sold off, I am not a tell tale but I know how gutted I will be if one day I wake to find my car stolen from my property!!!
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Stupid question but have you tried to reverse bleed it?
I use an old pump type oil can just for this and a small length of rubber hose from spout to nipple and pump until res is full, it saved me loads of headaches on the old LWB series TLS, might be worth a look? if something like a bias valve is blocking it then pushing it backwards might allow fluid to go in the right direction?
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Interesting - I would have thought that this has to continue in at least some form surely, for one because military/utility buyers will want it, and secondly because chassis cab options (Pick ups) and the like will require it. They manage this trick on transits and the like.
I for one look forward to something with decent build quality and modern levels of toys. Sadly the Defender just cannot continue as is
I wonder whether they are looking to keep military contracts with a new civilian type or based vehicle? They could have already been in development processes for a military proposed vehicle that now they have to make worthy of civi street? A highly lucrative market that one!!!
As for Tranny vans and tippers etc,. They are basically monococh and basically the box section is only an extension of the mono chassis rails, cheaper and much lighter to produce, sub frames and structured floor pans, very good to see when dissecting vehicles I think.
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I'd prefer it if you didnt call me an idiot - nowhere on your original LRO post did you say not to mention anything regarding Britpart quality. As stated by several in the other thread - there are thousands of complaints about BP on the internet forums and very few about the other aftermarket suppliers. You are unlikely to find many that sing the praises of BP on here either. If you wish to use them for safety critical parts then that is your call - whether you get a batch of brake discs that have been made properly or not is down to pot luck if you buy from them.
Back to the original thread, the bushes LR fitted originally last for a long time so another vote for genuine there - i plan to replace all of mine with genuine parts over the next year given their long life, they probably work out more economic than most aftermarket alternatives.
My apologies for frankness, but having been so busy on my own car undoing shoddy bodges just to keep it going I am more than a little pi**ed off by a lot of these posts that flame BP for poor quality goods when it seems the ability of some to fit them is highly questionable!!! I speak of abilities to wire a relay correctly or to change an interior light bulb without needing to rip it out because they don't want to fix it or buy a new one, glued on bits of tin when a welded in boot floor should have been fitted years ago, and not just on my present car but countless others I have bought, sold and worked on too the horror stories I could tell you of stereos wired in with twisted wires not soldered or crimped some not even insulated, multiple odd bits of cable to wire in a stereo amplifier, a gearbox ratchet strapped into the mounts because one had gone and they put the strap on it to hold it down and it was like it for 2yrs!!! Exhausts with fibre glass insulation wrapped around the hole and an old bean can cut and wired around it to stop it blowing, genius but for a day or so but not until it has to go for the MOT, there are lots more to speak of but my OP did state experience not opinion!!!!
But I will apologize to you in particular reb78 as you actually come across as a nice guy. Sorry.
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Put it like this- the boss has just bought a new G- Wagon (ok, they're 80k new) but it is basically the Defender LR should always have made (hopefully will make).
It' got all the utlity that a LWB defender has, but it's powerful (3.5TD), has an auto gearbox option, cruise control/built in sat-nav, excellent build quality and locking diffs. OK, they are silly money but it really opened my eyes to what LR could achieve even with half the budget.
Compare that to my brand new Puma XS 110- delivered last week complete with gaps in the door seals and a clunky gearbox (still love it though). And that's a 30k car with the VAT. LR have been reliying on the Defender's image for so long they have been left far behind everyone else producing 4x4s'.
Bring on the Defender MkII.
Could not agree more but they should have brought out a new vehicle 13yrs ago when they introduced the TD5 IMHO!!!
But I think the new vehicle will be the same as the D3 in the fact that it is seriously over weight on the curb side and they are now so far behind the competition that to catch up to it they will have to bring out such a radically altered model that it will have little or no resemblance to the outgoing one, and also in order to appeal to the modern day yuppies they will overlook the more utility and practical applications that made the image that stood for so long.
I wait to see what comes but I know full well that there will be a new model with another 5-10K slapped on it's price tag just because it will be a must have in rugged vehicles!!!
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I would agree for bushes but as for the discs they have not had a bad word said from people who have ACTUALLY used them.
I did ask about them on another forum but was lambasted with idiots who did not read the post properly and who's opinions were based on a rumor from the pub in a town 300 miles away, the 7 guys who had them fitted said the drilled and grooved discs were spot on and wore nice and evenly with no distortion and it really improved the braking and reduced the tendency to fade on long down hill sections of the motorways and with higher ambient temps.
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Luckily it went as quick as it came here on Sunday!!!
Shame I like to see the idiots pile up on the junction across the road because they still think it is 20 degrees with sunshine and forget to drive according to the conditions....
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...trouble is...I have series not defenders!
It does not matter so much as many things can be adapted like the fuel lock that I want....
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Quite a few people have asked me what tracker I bought for mine. I got it from here: http://dx.com/p/900-...inary-car-73004
It seems pretty good although the instructions are diabolical! It says it's waterproof - but I wouldn't rely on it for full submersion. It ended up costing about £50.
Si
Does this one have a subscription or contract Si?
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I am sorry to hear about another one nicked but chin up son, might get her back.
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Ah, I think the later axles have both 'arms' on both swivels. My early 90 axle only has the 'arms' on the back of both for the track rod and then only the LH swivel has one for the drag link. (RHD car)
The front axle is off my 1998 V8 Disco and is the same as yours two on one and one on the other......
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Dieseldog,
I have a 2002 Defender LHD front axle under a RHD hybrid, so I can't see you having any problems with the swivels.
Todd.
I was looking at the steering on the hubs and the link goes to different ends from the steering box?
Do I just retain my original hubs and swap the stubs and flanges for the 24 spline shafts and CVs?
Bit of a walk through please been a long time since I have had one to bits........
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I have a wide beam work light on a bracket on the tow bar frame that really lights up the place, it is wired to the normal reversing lamps but it is an LED that is very bright, I will try to take a snap in daylight but no light as Battery is missing at the mo, bloomin pikeys!!!!
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I personally use rain water collected in my water butts from my roof then filtered through a strainer into a plastic barrel for doing such things, ecological and cost effective too..
How should I change the body mount bushes on my disco?
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Ok well I am investing in a cordless rattle gun and impact sockets,lets hope a week soaking in WD40 helps loosen them up, will probably give them a squirt of freeze release too as this is proving its worth too....
Will post how I get on.