twodoorgaz

Dealer. I found the rust during an inspection - the pics show it after I’d poked it through and they’d removed the carpets and as a result got significant money off the price. While they’d be happy to do it, it would just end up being a patch over. I’ve rebuilt plenty of series bulkheads before and know I’ll take the time to do a more careful job so would prefer to do it myself. Had it up on ramps and spent an hour going over it: this is the only rust on the car.

Hi guys. just put a deposit down on a defender: a 2010 puma 90CSW. after looking at dozens of them, the best one in my price bracket had just one fault: a small isolated bit of rust in the passenger footwell. Otherwise it’s mint with very low mileage. its a small patch about 2” long along the outside edge of the reinforcing plate. So plan is: 1) drill out spot welds and remove reinforcing plate inside footwell. 2) clean surrounding area back to bare steel 3) cut out rust and butt-weld in a small piece of new steel 4) prime and then paint footwell in correct red colour (but leaving bare patches under the reinforcing plate spot welds) 5) refit reinforcing plate with puddle welds and touch up over the linished welds hassle I didn’t need, but necessary. to do the job properly I’d like to wire brush and repaint the rest of the outer-skin of footwell: buried deep in the back of the arch (passenger side). This will also give me access to weld on the outside too (I’ll need 100% penetration so that I can linish back for an invisible-ish repair). ...unfortunately that will likely mean removing the passenger wing. Up to now I’ve only ever had series land rovers, the defender is a bit more complex with inner wings and eyebrows. I've watched a few videos on YouTube and they all say that I’d need to remove the eyebrow to access the wiring loom. But I also read that TD5 and later models have a single plug at the back of the wing. does anyone happen to know if when removing a puma wing whether I can disconnect a multi-plug and thereby leave both the inner wing and the eyebrow attached when removing the wing? thank you!

Hi guys... looks like I’ve let the side down. I’ve gone and bought a civvy model: A 2010 90CSW. Pending no hiccups in the finance I’ll be collecting on Tuesday. thank you ever so much for your help in the above.

Thanks guys. This is really useful. Can I try and shovel another question into the thread, re: 90xd axles? I’ve just picked up James Taylor’s book to give me a bit of research into the model and it talks about these vehicles having thicker axle casings, stronger halfshafts and 4-pin diffs. It doesn’t specify 90/110/130. Do we know if the 90” axles are indeed stronger than their civillian counterparts... or is it simply the long wheelbase models that got the all singing p38/uprated rear axle with the reinforcing rib welded to it?

Hi folks. The search is on. i did look at a civillian CSW today. 2010 and immaculate but a bit too rusty underneath for me. So off to view the wolf’s next week. could I ask another question? Subject to removing the roll hoops is it possible to fit standard civillian roof choices to a Wolf (hardtop or truck cab)? just checking to see if the sides aren’t a different profile or anything. Not a fan of the large fibreglass offering: unless they’re worth anything on the open market if I take it and resell to offset the cost of an alternative.

Wow! Well - that’s decision made - Wolf it is. I’ll head down to Nottingham via Doncaster and that should let me hit two of the big sites for a look around: as soon as they reopen that is.

Thanks guys - Gluv: now that might be a game changer: if the Wolf’s has dinitrol from new that opens up a new world of options. do you know if it was in all the cavities (bulkhead, door and bonnet frames) or just the chassis? Was an outside treatment used too or just sprayed internally?

Hi everyone. My first post in the military section. The majority of my past cars have been Series IIAs, IIIs and 300TDi Discos. For the first time, I’m looking to buy a Defender. I’m guessing at a spend of around £12k (can go up a bit if I need to) and I’m specifically looking for an ex-army/RAF/services vehicle. I’d be looking to take delivery in late June/start of July (subject to lockdown). I’d be looking for one that has either seen light use (eg: the yellow ground crew ex RAF ones) or one that had been through a cherry picked refurb programme (like REMUS). I’d be looking for a late TDi or TD5 and would consider a 90 or 110 (in the case of the latter it would need to be either a station wagon or a utility that still has its rear bulkhead for a truck cab) the single most important thing to me is rust: chassis and bulkhead. I’m really looking for a vehicle that I can clean, professionally rust proof and cost the underbody... and then call it done from a structural perspective. That and the knowledge of the quality of parts used in past maintenance is the main reason that I’m not considering a civilian model. could I ask a few queries? 1) which of the refurb programmes are worth looking out for? (REMUS, TITHONUS, etc) any guidance on what was included in each would be very helpful. 2) are there vehicles from a particular branch that are known to have seen easier lives/better maintenance/lower miles? 3) who are the main suppliers these days - I’ve seen L Jackson &co, ex-mod.co.uk, witham specialist vehicles And Blanchard - are there any worth avoiding/any I've missed? I’ve read their ads for years but never actually been to their premises - I live in Manchester so some aren’t too far away. 4) does my price bracket need to go up or down a bit? any help would be massively appreciated, thank you.

Guys - thank you very much. Think I’m all set to start cracking on with getting the last of the bits

Thanks guys - this is incredibly useful. So, having had a quick scan through the various parts books my plan would be: pedal box: SIII (got) servo: SIII pn STC1816 (got) master cylinder: early Ninety pn NRC9529 (need) G-valve (stops rear brakes locking): early Ninety pn NRC8215 - with correct angled bracket (need) calipers: early Ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got) discs: early ninety, non vented pn FRC7329 (got but will replace) rear wheel Cylinders: early ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got bit will replace) rear backplates: early ninety pn RTc3166/7 (got) rear shoes: RTC3171 (got but will replace) Cuprinickel pipes, tees, clips, brackets, mud shields, switches, etc will all be new and generic. Plus the Heystee swivel kit and hubs. So, everything is from the exact same model year of Land Rover Ninety, except for the servo and pedal box which will be from a late SIII- does this sound about right to give a factory-feel pedal?

Thank you, but think that Terri-Anne has it all covered on her website (power brakes for series Land Rover) - the servo can, just about be made to fit by changing the forks, but it looks a bit odd (this one is intended to be a bit stealth). pending no big changes in opinion, I think that the above is the reassurance I needed to stick with the factory servo and the 90 master cylinder coupled with the correct 90 calipers/rear cylinders and the various valves etc. now just need to visit the vault of, ever more valuable spare parts I have, to pick out the bits to sell to cover the Heystee kit. thank you!

Hi folks. Hoping someone can educate me a bit here. I’m about to place my next order with Heystee for a disc brake swivel kit for the front of a SWB series Land Rover - this time for my father’s vehicle. The series Land Rover in question is a later SIII, fitted as standard with a servo assisted pedal box. The vehicle is in the middle of a chassis swap And has been neglected for decades, so I’m planning to renew the brake system wholesale. I’ve already bought a set of front calipers and backplates from a 200TDI ninety. These use the same 10” rear drums, but have slightly different rear cylinders - so, in order to keep a near stock brake setup - I’ll be using the same discs/calipers/master cylinder/wheel cylinder and shoes/drums as a factory 200TDI defender - all new or recon. No issues there. but the servo itself is causing some confusion. the factory SIII used a 6” servo. The factory 200TDi 90 used an 8” servo. You can get a defender pedal box to fit, but we’re not keen on it as it needs a bit of a mod and doesn’t have the right look. that leaves two options - using the factory 6” servo with the complete 200TDI 90 brake setup... or doing the same thing, except splashing out for one of Heystee’s custom 8” servos that fit onto the series pedal box. the issue with the latter is cost (they’re 3-4x the price of a standard LR servo and also spares availability - if I ever need to replace it, then it leaves me reliant on one manufacturer - something I’m not keen on. so my question is: does the servo size have any impact on the braking performance/functionality or just in the pedal effort? If it’s just effort and if the pedal will still feel “right” then I’ll stick with stock and save our money. i notice that North America Overland - one of the people that fit these kits, seem to use standard servos with a “late SIII/early Ninety” master cylinder. Heystee push you towards vented discs, which I don’t need. could anyone advise? Thank you.

Perfect! Thank you very much for the info.

Hi folks. hoping you can help. Does anyone happen to know the diaphragm size or boost ratio of an early (1970) Range Rover brake servo? For example, a Series servo (drums) is 6”, a pre 1994 Defender (Disc/Drums) is 9” and a post 1994 Defender (discs all round) is 11”. However I’ve never seen the same size guide for a RR, I’m even struggling with finding a PDF copy of the parts catalogue to get the part number. thank you!

Sure - please see attached. Also there’s a technical bulletin that mentions the Powr-Lok here On the SII club website

According to James Taylor's wonderful book Land Rover Series II/IIA Specification Guide, Land Rover offered a Powr-Lok limited slip differential for the rear axle between June 1965 and August 1969 with the 242 and 252-prefix axles. This was apparently withdrawn from the options list due to being troublesome in service.I'm also aware that this axle was standard fitment on the NADA 2.6 109 IIAs due to concerns about the strength of the, then Rover, rear diffs when coupled with the heavy SW body and the more-powerful Weslake variant of the engine.Again, I've read somewhere that the 4x2 SIIAs supplied to the (Dutch?/Belgian?) armies also used the Powr-Lok diff

Richard - how did you find the rebuild? I’ve got the kit on order for my DTML Weber and just seeing if there were any pitfalls to watch for. Thanks.

Thanks guys - I'll have a look at the pro-vent. Sounds interesting. Curious thought re: the air filter, though I'm happy to empty a separate catch tank once in a while (helps me keep track)

Thank you - happy to do so, but is it a lot more work in moving to multi-port? From my perspective, I'd just be putting my 2.5 petrol manifold in a box with the jeep donor and sending it off to be modified. It would come back with all four bungs welded in, a bung for the manifold temperature sensor and an alteration to the top to change from the two-barrel Webber setup to a single port for the throttle body. Yes, costly, but not much effort. The parts should all be generic bosch, with the exception of the throttle body itself - chosen as it seems to be a nice match to the 2.5 LR engine, its designed for a 4x4 and in terms of size and shape its not a million miles away from the carb it replaces. But... if installing and setting up MS to cope with the multi-port injection is really more hassle then I would gladly take your advice if I could identify a suitable downdraft throttle body to move to TBI. (as you an see I'm still learning here)

I'm just looking for a suitable jeep manifold at the moment, but when I have it I'll post pics so we can compare side by side and make a bit of a plan. Any feedback at this stage would be most welcome. Does anyone have any recommendations for firms that could do the mods to the manifold for me (manufacture fuel rail, weld in injector bungs and MAP sensor recess, etc) ? (I can't ally-weld) A couple of basic questions if I may: I'm working on the assumption that fuel injection replaces the carb by delivering exactly the right amount of air and fuel needed by the engine at any point regardless of environmental conditions. Q: But does it actually increase peak power and torque? If so, does anyone fancy hazarding a guess as to what it would do to an otherwise standard 17H engine? (83BHP@4000rpm / 133lbft@2000rpm - approx 24MPG in an 88" SIIA) Q: from others who have done MS installs, any idea what sort of efficiency improvements I might see? Q: Also, am I right in thinking that a MS install would not add any additional stresses or strains to the engine? Q: Finally - I'm also assuming that the intake would not see any great stress and so welding the aluminium casting wouldn't cause any risk of failure - sound sensible? I do have a second thread running about forced induction on this engine - which may or may no be practical, but if it is it would still necessitate the MS install.

Now, my understanding is that I need the intake manifold to be changed to carry a fuel rail with 4x injector pots and to have a number of additional ports added for sensors etc - plus I need to get a throttle body attached to the top. My other love is Jeeps, and the venerable old AMC 2.5 petrol engine is a favourite of mine - this was used from 1984 to 2002 (84-88 CJ-7 and Cherokee XJ, 87-2002 in YJ and TJ wranglers and the XJ Cherokee). The old engine has a lot of similarities to our LR engine, having been designed for a truck in the first instance (rather than pinched from a car). From 84-86 it had a single barrel carb (105hp/132 lbft), from 86-91 it had TBI (117hp/135lbft) and from 92-02 it had MPI (130hp/149lbft). The intake manifold actually looks quite similar to a LR setup and once my manifold is altered, the TB should sit nicely where the carb would have been. My intention is to have my manifold modified to take all the jeep components (fuel rail, sensors, injectors, etc) as these seem entirely appropriate for the application and parts availability is superb. Attached is a photo of a jeep intake.

Right. I'd been avoiding going MS for a long time, but I just can't get away from how practical it will be. On my last build I had the carb and distributor built for me (Dizzy Doctor and Carb Exchange) and still had problems with them - the same cost should cover the MS install on this build. I'm a simple lad, so before I start getting into the nitty gritty of electronics, I thought I'd start with something I understand - the manifold. The engine is a 17H 2.5 petrol (dressed-up as a 2.25 5MB) and I have a spare intake manifold, so I thought I'd start by getting that modified to take the hardware. Here's the pics of my existing manifolds:

Early ideas: As I'm not married to the block I have (and its quite valuable), the temptation is to go directly to a 2/300 TDI block which had already had the benefit of LR's learnings from the 19J issues (resulting in cylinder block cracking and crankshaft bearing failures until a redesign of the block and crank bearings in 1988). Q: can a turbo diesel block be changed to petrol spec as I understand that there were differences on oil pathways? The TDI crank could be retained. I would guess that I could then use all the same ancillaries from the SIII I had planned to use (sump, timing cover, bracketed etc) Head - I have a choice of 7:1, 8:1 (standard) or 9:1 (ACR). Q: Would forced induction place additional stresses on the head, or are they all much of a muchness? Pistons - no idea. Surely these are going to need a different shape. It would be phenomenal if the TDI ones turned out to be ideal for this as I could use a complete TDI bottom end. But the 2.5 petrol ones were specific to this unit, so doubt I'd get that lucky.

Reply 2-of-2 "other parts in the eBay parts bin and works available" So, lets look at what we have access to via eBay: From any 2.5 diesel Forged crank (its the same part number as the 17H petrol, but I'm told that from the factory the petrol ones were cast not forged) From 19J Turbo Diesels: Inlet and exhaust manifold Garrett T2 Turbo Block - which I think is similar to the 17H but strengthened Pistons/Rods From a 200 or 300TDI Block - could be very interesting if I could use a diesel block as long as it was a direct fit with the correct oil ways etc Inlet and exhaust manifold (300TDI only - I'm not going to try and track-down a 200TDI defender one) Garrett T25 Turbo Pistons/Rods From a Mini Cooper S Eaton M45 Teflon Supercharger. From a Jeep Wrangler 2.5 Inlet manifold with a nice throttle body or multi-pint injection. If I go MJ, the plan would be to have the LR manifold modified to take Jeep components cos I like them. In terms of additional things: Machining - I have two machine shops lined up and also live quite close to ACR. I'd prefer to just get the machining done and assemble myself to keep the costs down. Balancing - overkill on a low-rev land rover, but I'm doing it anyway as the cost of having all the rotating components balanced is peanuts (<£100). Casting - I play with a bit of aluminium casting, so I can make simple parts and have them machined. I'd struggle with a manifold as it needs cores which I haven't pulled-off yet, but simple castings are easy. MJ/MS - I'll definitely be going MJ, but open to MS too. One further note: it has to retain a chain driven timing setup. Its my one line in the sand as it makes the installation that bit more pretty than pushing the crank pulley and fan noses out.

Reply 1-of-2 "Existing plan and parts" Thanks Guys - it will be a very slow process here, and might end up going nowhere but I'll keep up the thread. If I can't get to a sensible plan for forced induction, I will stick to plan A which is to build it up as a 2.25 5MB-lookalike using the parts as follows: 17H bottom end, including flywheel housing and oil filter (Got) 901-serial SIII (8:1 but imperial) head, timing cover, sump, thermostat, mounts, alternator bracket, etc (Got) Webber 32/34 DMTL carb and inlet/exhaust manifolds (Got) Steve Parker off-the-shelf exhaust system for the 2.5p into a SWB Series (Need) oil bath air filter from a 2.6 6-cyl (slightly higher CFM, but looks stock) (Got) custom cast aluminium plenum to allow standard carb elbow fit vertically to the later carb (to make) Single pulley, part number ERC5349 (Got) Metric starting handle crank dog (Need) Complete cable throttle assembly from a Stage 1 V8 (Got) Standard 90/110 2.5 petrol throttle cable (Got) The above plan is in the bag. But as I have a drivetrain that will comfortably handle anything a 2.5 petrol can throw at it - even with forced induction. So I can focus exclusively on the engine. I've built a fair few Series Land Rovers now, but have always outsourced the engine build. For this project, building the engine myself is the part I am most looking forward to - a new engine crane, numerous measuring tools and Rick Voegelin's rather wonderful book on Engine Blueprinting is standing by. So, going through my existing engine parts in the garage, I already have: 17H block with flywheel, flywheel housing and oil filter housing. It currently has a double crank pulley and a bracket on the front, which I think is a power steering pump bracket. A 17H single groove crank pulley, part number ERC5349 A 17H inlet/exhaust manifold with heat shield Two Webber 32/34 DMTL carbs - one from a 2.25 and one from a 2.5 Accelerator cable from a '901' Series III petrol engine... Sump 8:1 head (will be recon'd to 9:1, U/L and 17H spec valves) Rocker cover Side fill oil tube and baffle Rocker cover Dipstick (I can straighten and re-use the metric dipstick tube from the 17H) Timing cover Water pump Fan and pulley Thermostat housing Engine mounts Rocker assembly, timing assembly and a big heap of fasteners An inlet/exhaust manifold and Zenith 36IV carb (won't be using this) from a 2.6 6-cyl series oil bath air filter (will be fitted into a dropped battery tray from a 4-cyl). from a 2.6 6-cyl Santana A 38IV Zenith Carb (was planning on using this but couldn't get a set of manifolds that would suit the 2.5 petrol) from a 3.5 Stage 1 V8 Complete cable throttle assembly