BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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MTs on hard packed snow are liable to lead to an increase in your laundry bill so I suppose they avoid advertising them for mud and snow. ATs are much better as there are more grippy edges on an AT.
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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Is that the building where none of the electrics work?
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Given that you can buy every part on the vehicle from somewhere or other that isn't Land Rover, I'm curious as to what stops him (or anybody else) just buying up all the bits and assembling them? Clearly not cost effective at parts counter prices but if you were doing it in bulk the economics might look completely different.
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More effin about with a photo of the hideous DC100 concept and Photoshop if you ask me.
The SAS Pink Panther version just made me laugh
Somehow doubt it will have 16" steel wheels either!
As I have said before, I don't believe it exists - there has been not one credible spy photo and if it's going to be launched next year that simply isn't likely, unless I suppose it looks just like the other blobmobiles in which case you probably wouldn't notice if they put a Range Rover badge on it. I suspect even it it does exist it will be about as much like a real Defender as my ride on lawnmower.
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If it is still on the original engine and gearbox both will be pretty tired by now but really so much will depend on how it has been looked after (meaning how it has been maintained as well as general treatment) and it could be anything from a gem to an expensive money pit. You don't say where you are, are we talking US$ or some other $? Most users on here are from the UK but much of the comment will be relevant to any model vehicle.
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Is that not the bolt holes that the track rod bracket goes on to on a front diff? The diff is the same component so presumably they are redundant and somebody just put a couple of bolts in to blank the holes. I assume they are blind holes and the bolts have bottomed out.
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^ Twice, Mr Brock
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Getting through another year of trundling around, towing boat, towing big Ifor Williams tipper and a bit of off road use here and there with no breakdowns, no oil leaking out, no water leaking in, and a general lack of all the things that people bang/witter on about in Defenders. Ten years old this year, just getting to 30k miles, so should be a couple of years left in it yet.
Currently taking in some pleasant and remote scenery to start 2017:
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Does the vehicle have ABS fitted or not?
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I'd do a compression test for starters.
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I honestly doubt he's still around, the post was from 2014 and he only made 3 posts in total all of which were on this thread. You could try sending him a PM.
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Sadly the clearances are too tight even with 16 inch wheels on. I have regularly seen cases when people cannot get their wheels off due to mud building up on the wrong side of the disc guard so the guard catches on the mud and the wheel cannot be removed until it is cleaned.
Presumably if somebody makes 15" wheels, they can be fitted, otherwise there wouldn't be much of a market for them!
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I'd just buzz a bit off them with a grinder.
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Used to read 2 or 3 religiously, haven't read anything for maybe three or four years now for all the reasons already stated. Shallow tech articles, stuffed with orange extreme tat advertising, virtually nothing of interest.
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If you have the rave CD look for electrical troubleshooting manuals. I think they are in there. Older LR wiring diagrams are really not very good.
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Fortunately I was looking in the box of bits they thoughtfully supplied with it (AIE is an old school company - it came with a spare set of motor capacitors, spare control box, spare air filter and non return valve, and spares for each of the switches all included, don't get that from Machine Mart!) and I wondered what was in the plastic bag in the bottom of the box. Turned out to be a full set of gaskets for the pump as well, so I changed the gaskets on that cylinder and we're back in business
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I have a 3hp industrial compressor made by Air Industrial Equipment that is about 3 years old.
Yesterday I was using it and it suddenly started making a funny chuffing noise. It has 3 cylinders and the middle one started blowing hot compressed air out the intake - the other two were still sucking air. It still charges but only slowly now.
I have pulled the offending cylinder to bits and the valve block that sits on top of the piston seems to be a flat plate with two mobile/sprung flat plates inside it, can't exactly see how they work but they appear to function as I would think they should - one operating in one direction, the other operating in the other.
However on Googling for compressor faults it seems that a generic compressor problem can be that the cylinder head above the valve block is in two parts, one side inlet and one side outlet/pressure, and it seems that the 'head gasket' between the inlet and outlet can be a failure point. It's hard to tell on this as the gasket broke up on disassembly anyway, but do folks think that this is the most likely cause before I look deeper? It would fit with the warm air exhausting as it would not be creating its own pressure but probably leaking pressure being generated by the other two cylinders.
I've never seen such a problem and have flogged cheap compressors half to death in the past, so to find it on a fairly heavy duty bit of kit that is only 3 years old and hasn't really had much use seems a bit odd. I don't have a spare valve block anyway, so if that is needed I will have to order parts from the UK which will take a few weeks.
Thanks.
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I'd check the timing. I had a similar problem on my old 3.9 and found that when disassembled for a warranty job, somebody had got their before and after TDC mixed up when setting up the dizzy, so it ran, but not all that well...
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18 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I know now there's a mobile service that will gently vibrate them loose with very low risk of snapping for a reasonable price, so the sensible-minded owner might think that while the guy's in town (the D3 forum have maintenance "meet-ups" where stuff like this goes on) it's worth investing a few quid in a set of glow plugs and getting them swapped out before it becomes an issue.
Now that's very clever
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Bad earths, usually, or a dud battery but you seem to have ruled that out.
Put a voltmeter between the engine block and battery negative, and get somebody to turn the engine over and see if you get a voltage when cranking.
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You need to unlock with the fob on that age of vehicle, that or the EKA code are the only way to disarm the alarm. You cannot do so just by opening it with the key, even if you locked it with the key you must use the fob to open it.
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I wouldn't really touch any of them but then I spent 15 years as a dealer!
Ever had to explain to somebody why the engine needed to be stripped and the heads sent to a machine shop because at least 50% of the time the glow plugs on an older TDV6 will snap off when you try and change them at about 4-5 years? Days of labour for a job that should have taken a couple of hours. That sort of thing. Dumb designs that are made to be built efficiently not to be maintained, so you have to take the whole body off to do quite a few jobs. Great cars when they work, but that's usually the problem.
There are good ones and bad ones, especially with the older D3s, but the potential for eye-watering bills is just too great. The fundamental problem is that there is too much carp in them to go wrong. My Shogun (bought new last year) still has a lot of practical features that you would have found on a Discovery 2. Spare wheel on the back door (so the winch doesn't go sproingggg when you are trying to change a wheel in the dark and it is raining), a handbrake that oddly enough has never gone wheeeeedonkdonkdonkdonkgrrrrrr because it's a lever pulling on a bit of wire, springs that have never gone flat overnight because they are made of metal not of air, just to mention 3 things. It isn't perfect, never found a vehicle that is, but I have a lot more confidence in keeping it for a few years than I would with a LR, partly because it's got a 5 year warranty now.
Personally I always really wanted the last model of RR Sport, but I just couldn't bring myself to buy a vehicle based on the D3 chassis which gave us so many nightmares at work.
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Disco 2 will take 255/70R16 and they will just fit on the back door. I ran BFG ATs in this size for years. 245/70R16 also fits but they are a little taller.
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It might be helpful to post what works and what doesn't in that system (anything relating to alarm, immobiliser, central locking, remote locking fobs)
ARB Speedy Seal
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Have had an ARB Speedy Seal puncture repair kit for a few years now, brilliant item which has saved me a lot of inconvenience and cost, but I am nearly out of the rubber string.
The ARB kit has been very good and have had very few repeat problems with items up to about the size of a 6" nail in the tyre. Those that have failed have normally been optimistic repairs - through the shoulder of the tyre or similar, where I had doubts that it would be effective at the time of repair.
I cannot see anywhere selling the genuine Speedy Seal strings in the UK - they are available from the US but very expensive - any feedback on whether it is worth getting these or are any of the Ebay cheapies just as good in practice? I have ordered some more generic repair strings off Ebay but not sure if they will be any good.