BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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I'm thinking about fitting the Ashcroft ATB diffs in the front and rear of one and maybe both of my 110s. I'll probably do the Tdi first, and if they seem to make a worthwhile difference I may do the Puma as well, as it's out of warranty in a week so I can start fitting interesting bits
However, I'm keen to know what people's experiences are of using them on-road. Due to being in the Falklands most of the roads here are loose gravel / graded clay and any 'odd handling characteristics' might be magnified. I don't want to end up with a vehicle that wants to swap ends without warning on loose corners. I also don't want to have a vehicle that routinely makes graunchy diff noises going round corners in town, because non-standard noises drive me around the twist.
I have not recently done a thorough search but I think I have seen comments that say there are no effects at all and other comments that there are some noticeable effects on cornering. I don't have a feel for whether this is different between SWB and LWB vehicles, both of mine are 110s.
Any views from owners that have used them for a while on and off road please? I'm interested in both performance off-road and any side effects on-road, as both matter.
The diff centres themselves appear excellent value and being Ashcroft I am sure that they are well made, but I have zero experience of gear-type LSDs, my only experience is with the ones fitted in the back of Mitsubishi/Ford pickups which on the whole are pretty useless but they are plate-type LSDs. Everything I see says that the gear-type LSDs are a different animal and much more effective.
I don't want the cost or hassle of fitting full lockers and the type of issue I'm trying to solve is to improve climbing performance on steep/loose/slippy surfaces or boggy ground, where I think a gear-type LSD will control wheelspin and keep all four wheels moving where a standard vehicle will often spin on opposite corners. I'm just trying to figure out if there are downsides and whether they are likely to annoy me...
Ta
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I think the 265/60R18 will fit, I had 255/70R16 which are only 0.5" smaller diameter and had no issues with those. One problem you run in to is that over about 255/70R16 the spare tyre will barely clear the rear bumper to close the door, but you can get upwards offset wheelcarriers to compensate for that.
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My old 90 on BFG MT 265/75R16
Same vehicle on 265/75R16 Insa Turbos. Bloody awful things on the road!
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The 200 and 300 ones are different threads and spanner sizes. You probably just have the wrong part.
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I have a Milemarker with a pump where the AC slot is on my 300Tdi Defender. It's slow but much more powerful than anything electric that I've ever used. I have had it on three different vehicles since I got it in 2004, and it has never missed a beat. I've only stalled it due to overload once, and that was with a lot of rope still on the drum. I love it - smooth, silent and will shift almost anything. Nothing has ever broken and apart from painting the mount a couple of times, maintenance input has been zero. I've also previously owned an 8274 and a Husky.
All that said, I bought an electric winch (TDS9.5) for the new Puma simply because the MM is no longer available from UK suppliers, it was very expensive (£1800 all in), it was more work to fit and for a quick pull out of a ditch it is both overkill and relatively slow. The problem with all electric winches is that it is a 'what comes out must go in' equation with the battery and alternator, which with a standard setup is likely to mean a relatively low duty cycle for all-day work. Whether that is a problem depends on what you are doing and how you are doing it - lots of short pulls with re-rigging time probably not an issue, hauling heavy stuff hundreds of metres up steep slopes then it might well be. Bear in mind that the winch challenge boys often spend a fortune on batteries and alternators to beef up the "what goes in" bit.
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Lots of possible causes, a case here (fortunately off road) where not one but both swivels sheared, so both front wheels came off. Aftermarket parts of course. A seized wheel bearing will eventually shear off the stub axle but you'd have to be pretty deaf not to notice the noise!
However losing wheels is 90% due to wheel nuts coming off in my experience, and I guess spacers make that a bigger problem from the previous replies. Never have used them and never will.
If anybody else has had a wheel off any of our vehicles for any reason at all I will always go around it and check the nuts myself.
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Less of a fire, more of a blast furnace in the bowels of Hell. I don't miss D3 electrics, following a complete change of career!
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Green box with Lucas 10AS on it. I think it usually lives behind the trim in the passenger footwell in a right hand drive vehicle but not sure about LHD...
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From Wiki
- North America
The 1994 model year marked the first year that the Discovery was sold in the United States. Airbags were incorporated into the design of the 1994 model to meet the requirements of US motor vehicle regulations, though they were not fitted as standard in all markets. All North American specification (NAS) models were fitted with the 3.9-litre V8 from the Range Rover SE models, and later models saw a change to the 4.0-litre version of the engine.[6]
Technically speaking, the 1996 to 1998 US models with 4.0-litre engines had the same displacement as the 3.9-litre engines fitted to the earlier 1994 to 1995 US models; the differences between the engines involved improvements to the block rigidity and pistons, and a change from the Lucas 14CUX engine management to the distributor-less Generic Engine Management System ("GEMS"). In earlier 3.9-litre US engines the fuel injection computer (14CUX) did not control the ignition, which was instead controlled by a traditional system with an ignition coil and distributor made by Lucas. The GEMS system was developed jointly by Lucas and SAGEM; it controlled both spark timing and fuel injection. Unlike the earlier systems fitted to Rover V8 engines, GEMS was made OBD-II compliant. This change was largely driven by the federal requirement (starting in 1996) for vehicles sold in the United States to meet the OBD-II specification.
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That was what I was thinking, that the NAS vehicles have the 4.0 GEMS engine out of the P38 RR at the time. I have a feeling some even had the 4.6L engine fitted.
You could post up or PM the VIN and post a photo of the engine bay and see what we can find out.
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The symptoms sound similar to the alarm spider issue (see tech archive post) but I have no idea what arrangement the NAS V8 vehicles had or even what engine, I have a vague notion they might have had a Range Rover variant of the engine by then, rather than the same motor as the old 3.9 V8 that was in the UK model Discovery so that spider info might be completely irrelevant. Most of the expertise on here is likely to be with UK vehicles.
I'd say you are along the right lines, wiring issue to something.
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Seems quite bearable these last few days........................
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19 hours ago, garrycol said:
Well it can be done with the body on but is a pain to get to hard to get spots - but if you are prepared to take your time and have low stress levels it is doable..
The body is not all that hard to undo but you will need a 2 or 4 post lift to get it up.
I knew somebody at the dealership who decided he was going to change a D3 engine without taking the body off, he did and said afterwards that next time he'd take the body off. There might have been some swearing in the previous statement in its original form!
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Won't help you if you have locked it, but back door issues are usually the flap inside the handle sticking, which you fix by taking out the Land Rover badge and pushing the flap back down again. Not 100% sure if the same trick works on a D2, it's a while since I have had to do it.
If the vehicle is deadlocked then the CDL button inside won't work and neither will trying to open a door with the interior locking mechanism, because all those are isolated.
Why don't you just open the door with the key, or are you going to tell me you don't have a key and/or the door lock is broken as well?
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Welcome to the world of disposable vehicles. They are no longer made to be built, rebuilt, tinkered with and fettled. There's a reason it is cheap, and it's only a bargain if you can fix it....
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Got a Honda GX engine in the Flymo, starts 1st or 2nd pull after being in the garage for six months, can't beat them
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Pretty sure the shift points differ between V8 and diesel for example, different settings in the valve block inside. Talk to Dave Ashcroft, what he doesn't know about this sort of stuff I could write on the back of my ear.
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Thanks all. The Britpart +2" kit is available locally and I was talking to somebody I know this evening and discovered he's had it on his 110 for about 3 years, no issues and is still pleased with it, so I think that's probably what I will get rather than wait a few months.
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Rattle guns kill the alloy nuts even without any corrosion underneath, the caps get deformed and you then have a hell of a job to get the socket on (or off).
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11 hours ago, mickeyw said:
I'll just add that when we've had a really stuck vehicle, and not been entirely confident in the winch attachment point, a 'safety lanyard' has been employed. By this I mean we connected a rope from the winch hook to a second fixing point on the stuck vehicle. This is not to spread the load, but if the winching point did fail the lanyard stops the winch hook and any attached metal going far enough to hurt anyone.
Most of the recovery I do is in wooded areas, so a tow recovery could easily result in damage due to tree contact. Winching allows accuracy and control in this situation.
Dyneema doesn't whip like a wire rope, one thing I like about it.
Trees are not so much of a problem round here
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One thing I didn't add is that for me, being in charge of the recovery and using my own equipment is the important thing. The one thing I'd always try and avoid is somebody I didn't know either using their own equipment, or being in charge of the loud pedal on the towing vehicle. My rope, my rules, and everybody will come out alive
I will use the winch, but it isn't always effective with a very stuck vehicle (moves them closer together but not in the right way). Tend to prefer that if there are dodgy looking recovery points on the other vehicle.
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That's a lovely job, some real old fashioned craftsmanship there.
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On 1/24/2018 at 8:54 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
Those ground anchors are really heavy and cumbersome and I don't think I've ever seen anyone use one in anger.
Admittedly with advancing age I usually try not to get stuck these days rather than trying to get stuck, but it's the type I carry all the time and have used many times. Plough anchors are fine in hard ground but fairly useless in very soft peat as they can disappear almost completely! Even if you get out there is then a second recovery challenge....
The other thing is that the tube and pins are much easier to stow in the back of the vehicle, I have a false floor about 1.5" thick which the pins go under and the tube sits along the side. Unless you invent a way to carry it outside the vehicle, a plough anchor, even a folding one, takes up a huge amount of space, which is no good if you're travelling with stuff to get somewhere first. I'm about to modify my false floor concept for the new 110 so that all the recovery gear (jack, spade and towrope as well) can go under the floor, and still leave almost full load capacity in the back.
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Confusing terms here. Did you carry out a compression test, or a fuel pressure test, and what exactly had no pressure?
If the cylinders had no pressure (compression test) then yes I'd agree the engine is probably kaput and needs major surgery, next step is to take the cylinder head off and ascertain why and whether it is repair or replacement.
If the fuel pressure is nil on the injectors for two cylinders (fuel pressure check) then that is an entirely different problem and with the fuel system, and could be either electrical or a problem with the pump or injectors.
Ashcroft ATB on road
in International Forum
Posted
Ta. I drive it sympathetically off-road and have never broken a halfshaft or CV, though a couple of 2-pin diffs have been ... modified. I don't want to upgrade all the front end, which is part of the reason for going for ATB rather than full locker. Most of the situations that get you stuck in off-road conditions here are simply overall lack of traction rather than trying to winch up a cliff, the challenge is usually getting up wet slimy peat-covered hillsides etc so the absolute component load is not too threatening, it's just the lack of grip that makes the most lightly-laden wheels start to spin.
As for "proper off roading", trust me you can do plenty of that without endangering standard parts