BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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All the ones folks here use are STC618 I think, as you say 2 in a box.
One thing some people do is to "press" them before fitting. Basically you need a couple of bits of Nige spec snorkel tube (10mm thick x about 3in diameter) or a couple of large, old type galvanised pipe fittings or big sockets, just smaller than the diameter of the washers that sandwich the outside of the rubbers.
Put one bit on each side of the bush and stick the whole lot in a press. Press down so it squeezes the whole lot together and the rubber part of the bush is squashing out, and keep pressing until the paint on the rubber part of the bush just starts to crack, then release the pressure - it will spring back but not as far, so the metal washers (now bent) grip the rubber much tighter and the bushes last longer!
It might compromise suspension travel a bit but I can't say I've noticed and it certainly makes a difference to the useful life of the bushes - I have done it on some of my old vehicles and I will be doing it on the new one.
It can also bring a bit of life back into a bush which is a bit worn but which you are too mean to change
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The new 110 axles on all 110s and 130s from 2002 model year onwards (the ones with the new dash console) are the 4 pin diff out of the back of a 4.6 litre Range Rover P38a. I don't know what the axle casing is but the diff pan is different (a bit bigger).
They are rubbish and not up to the job IMHO. They are probably better than the std 2 pin diffs used in the front and 90s/Discoverys but having had both a new rear diff in the Discovery when it was brand new, and a new rear diff in the 90, from my point of view that seems a bit like saying that treading on a rusty nail is better than treading on an anti-tank mine. I know of a fair few broken ones on not very old 110s (well none of them are very old as its only been in use for 3 years!) compared to the good old Salisbury which had a vast amount of backlash but never seemed to break.
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It actually makes good sense to score up the shafts.. and no it hasn't broken anything like a diff of stub axle.. not sure how it can to be honest..
I think the diff centres (even ARBs) can break due to the sudden shock loading when a shaft snaps. I don't understand it either but people say they do/have.
As for the stub axle, when a shaft breaks it usually seems to twist off rather than just snap (at least the ones I have seen have done that) and so the broken end becomes a slightly odd shape. I guess the problem here will be if the break is inside the stub axle where it is a fairly tight fit, if it is grinding round inside it will knacker the inside of the stub axle, probably weaken it, and may be very hard to get out?
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I was browsing the other day when I got a load of firewall alerts for nasty things trying to do stuff, I blocked all of them and thought nothing more of it.
But now as soon as I start the PC up (I only have a dialup internet connection) it wants to connect to the internet, and if I am connected to the ISP, as soon as I disconnect it comes up with the connection dialog again. As far as I can tell from the firewall the program trying to connect is c:\windows\system32\svchost.exe which I am sure is a legitimate system file - at least, if I allow the connection this comes up, does a bit of traffic in and out then shuts up for a short time, then does a bit more etc etc.
Is this something dodgy going on or what? It never used to do this.
Any advice from learned IT gurus would be appreciated - I have done a virus scan etc but apparently nothing amiss, maybe I'm just paranoid!?
thanks
Stephen
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My worst vehicle stuckage didn't involve any mud, it was when I went off the side of a causeway across a river in full flood. Ended up with the back end in deep water (about half way up the windows at the back) and the front end up to the headlights. Got very cold and very wet getting it out (needed 2 vehicles towing and only just came out then) plus as it was Dad's vehicle I got a frosty reception when I arrived home on the end of a tow rope an hour or so late! Didn't have a camera with me which was just as well as it would have been underwater along with everything else that got wet on the passengers seat
however I did get off lightly as somebody else that went off in about the same place went even further, they lost the whole vehicle underwater and I think they had to fish it out with a Cat digger!Also had a motorbike bogged down to the headlight in a swamp (that was fun getting out too, after I had picked myself up from 6 feet in front of it....it stopped kinda quick!) but no pictures of that either.
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I have indeed
I should think in something half the weight the previous owner of the engine would, to coin a phrase, have "discovered that fear was brown and lumpy"
Why don't you buy a Westfield and put it in that? M&S do bargain packs of underwear, 5pr for about £12 IIRC
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Mostly said already but....
There are only 2 sorts fitted to most 90/110s. RTC3346 on old vehicles and RTC3458, the later one (RTC3458) definitely fits all the 300s etc and Td5s up to the end of the 2001 model year but I am not sure when it was introduced, probably late 80s. The later 300 type one is a bit smaller than the old ones but v difficult to tell apart unless you have them side by side on a bench.
Only 2002 model year and on have a much larger front prop UJ which will be the STC4807 Ralph refers to - but I think the rear prop on the newest vehicles still uses the smaller RTC3458 UJ, quite why they strengthened the front and not the back is anybody's guess
Never come across RTC3291 but I suspect that may be an old number for RTC3458 rather than the other way round as I think the ones we have at work are all under RTC3458.
By the way RTC3458 also fits the PTO shaft on a 1980-ish Jones Mk 13 hay baler, how about that for a bit of useless information
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I did phone earlier and said :
"Oh Hi, can you confirm I can weigh my vehcile fully loaded & unloaded etc if I bring it in today ?"
"Yes sir, but we have a 30 tons weight limit".....
...........for a moment I thought it was a forumeer working there who had sussed it was me
PMSL!
My exact thought as I was reading it.....
How much does a Sankey trailer weigh? Mine weighs 2500kg on the weighbridge at the local quarry, with an empty Sankey on the back.
...and I seem to remember about 3800kg with a full Sankey on the back but we won't dwell on that as it might be seen as a "slight" overload of a 3/4 ton trailer
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I forgot to say ... great photo
I reckon it was probably all those lights, the 200Tdi was running flat out to drive the alternator and consequently used 10x as much fuel as anticipated
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The engine I would really like to try in a 90 is the 3.0 litre TD from a mid to late 90's Toyota Landcruiser Colorado/Prado. Really good motors, quiet, pulls well from low down and plenty of oomph, but still fairly simple. I drove a Hilux Surf with one of those in the other day (wearing a balaclava of course
) and while I hated everything else about the vehicle, it had a fair bit of poke! -
[We had an excellent weekend, bar the tragidy that happened Sunday morning.
It didn't even make the news on TV this evening
poor b*ggerPerils of the job I suppose but it was a bit of a shock to hear about it on the radio this morning
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All I know about them is that I believe John Craddock used to sell them for a huge amount of money (about £293.odd)
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On your little islands with their small and poorly serviced roads what are you going to do with more power ??!
Adam
in answer to your question
Anyway there's plenty of room - our "little islands" cover an area getting on for the size of Wales
I just want something that goes up hills properly - there are lots of those here
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They had a reputation for blowing up rather a lot (as well as blowing up gearboxes) but I have no idea if it was justified or not. The company that might have used to supply them didn't have a very good reputation either IIRC
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Anybody on here running one of the big Allisport intercoolers in a 300Tdi Defender?
If so, any chance you could post a couple of photos of it with the grille off please, so I can see how much clearance there is around the edges. Particularly interested in the clearance between the cooler and the bottom left hand corner of the radiator surround panel (the bit with the "Defender" sticker on at the top).
I am going to get "something" and preferably the big one but the Milemarker pipes have to go through somewhere and I don't want to have to chop lumps out of the front end as it will weaken the panel. Not sure if there is space or not? Plan B is the smaller intercooler but I prefer plan A - more power Egor
Ta
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Having driven James's 110 in Wales I can confirm that even on 35" Simex it pulls pretty well
on "ordinary" sized tyres it must be awesome -
what E511 means...
Sounds like an artificial food flavouring to me
Sorry that really wasn't much help was it
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Straightening KittyGrippers
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That's what I do, audible warning that you are approaching full lock
as said sometimes a bit of noise is better than having to shunt backwards to make a turn
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Lara is over here but I can't recall how his is done though I think I have seen the explanation somewhere. I think from memory that his is a different gearbox though, the stronger HP24 as fitted to a 4.6 V8 RR, because as you say his is a 2.8 with some obscene amount of torque.
Basically to transplant a Discovery setup as-is the biggest headache is that you'd need all the CAN-bus garbage to go with the electronic gearbox control, if I was doing it I think I'd do it the way I have seen described somewhere (I think it was something written by Ashcrofts) which is to make a "hybrid" gearbox out of an old Discovery gearbox (without the electronic control) plus a Td5 Discovery bellhousing and torque converter. Then I think the only problem would be to make up some sort of kickdown linkage to go on the accelerator pedal but I have seen a photo of something somewhere (again it may have been Ashcrofts, or it may even have been Lara, can't remember what his setup is)
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rather a good Freelander advert on there
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150" of 11mm rope
[pedant]
Coo. Twelve and a half feet of rope ain't going to get you far
I'll get me coat
[/pedant]
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Once upon a time somebody - I think it may have been John Craddock - used to advertise a completely waterproof V8 ignition setup. I seem to remember it was some sort of double insulated leads and a special dizzy cap. I also seem to remember it was about £300! - not sure if it worked but might be worth some enquiries if you are willing to spend that sort of money on solving the problem.
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Paul Wightman has done this very thing and more besides, a post is on the green forum here though it appears some of the pictures have expired
However you may need to wade through a certain amount of misinformation in this post to get to the truth
however I did get off lightly as somebody else that went off in about the same place went even further, they lost the whole vehicle underwater and I think they had to fish it out with a Cat digger!
KittyGrippers (tm) a few more for sale
in International Forum
Posted
I would like to claim a new one free under warranty since I broke everything on the old one
